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rattlewagon's 1992 Pickup Build-Up Thread

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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 06:40 AM
  #401  
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The drive flanges make it easy too, I dont have to unbolt the lockout , just pop off a dust cover to get to the snap ring.

For non ifs hub people, you can do the camo method. (not my video)


Last edited by rattlewagon; May 29, 2016 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 07:32 AM
  #402  
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SUPER stoked for you man! Awesome!
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 04:20 PM
  #403  
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Front "spool" works mint! Snows starting to melt so I didnt get stuck in the field this time. Half doors back on. Still need to be cut down a bit and capped.

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They dont open anymore. Need to get in dukes of hazard style, which really isnt that hard. They are being held in bu the latch and the top hinge. Should have them finished up by next weekend and start on the bed area.

Last edited by rattlewagon; Mar 29, 2014 at 06:53 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 07:22 PM
  #404  
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Awesome man!! Looks sick.
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 10:26 AM
  #405  
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Next step of the process started!

I found a used Advanced Adapters R150F to gear drive transfer case adapter plate on the pirate classified for cheap, so I jumped on it. Now it time to look for a top shift and some 4.7 gears!

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My crawl ratio right now is around 40:1 (3.83x2.57x4.10), so after the 4.7 gears it will be around 73:1 (3.83x4.7x4.1). Im just going to run a single case with 4.7s. That way I can reuse my budbuilt and drive shafts, and dont have to buy 2 cases and another adapter.

Last edited by rattlewagon; Mar 31, 2014 at 10:30 AM.
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 04:31 PM
  #406  
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why the adapter and a gear drive case? why not just put 4.7s in the current case? worried about strength? im just curious, I know it will be bad ass
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 05:17 PM
  #407  
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Great info!! Hope to see more bada$$ pics!
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 05:45 PM
  #408  
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Types of toyota stuff:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/

The truck has a R150F tranny with a chain driven VF1A Case. Has a 2.57 low range and is 23 spline. Strong, good case, but no aftermarket support.

I need an adapter to go from the r150f to the top shift case. The tranny is 23 spline, while all gear drive set cases are 21 spline. I either need a conversion gear in the crawl box (If I find a used set, sometimes can find a used box with gears for 3-500) or If I buy gears new, I can get 23 spline a input from the start.

I want to run a single 4cly top shift gear box behind the r150f to keep it simple. RF1A boxes are 2.28 reduction, but with a set of 4.7 gears, it makes it worth it. Duals would be cool, but this is simpler. I can always add another case down the road if I want to.

Very informative thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-case-231669/

Last edited by rattlewagon; Mar 31, 2014 at 06:02 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 04:49 PM
  #409  
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Does the 4 cyl gear drive case end up with it's mounting boss in the same location, with the adapter, as does your stock 6-cyl chain drive case? I'm skeptical that it'll just bolt up to your fancy Budbuilt skid without modification.

You don't actually "need" a top shift case. You can make your own by cutting down and welding the "forward shift" rod and then bolt the shifter in the stock "top shift" location. I've done it a couple times now to make them work in the back of a dual case adapter.

Call me if your looking for a gear drive 4 cyl case, I should have a couple/few.

Isn't it cheaper to buy a dual adapter than it is to buy low range gears? You'll end up with an even lower crawl ratio, and then you don't loose your "mud" low range. Just stirring the pot, that's all.

Good find on the adapter, kinda jealous really.

Is this thing making it to Bradford next month? If my stock junk made it through the rockcrawl, this thing should own.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 04:52 PM
  #410  
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Oh, and all the cool kids are running spooled diffs front and rear. Welcome to the club.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 05:00 PM
  #411  
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when you factor in the new front and rear drive shafts and a new mount for dual cases, rear 4.7 gears are way cheaper than dual t cases. maybe not as cool but way cheaper. and you aren't the only one who is jealous on the find.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 06:09 PM
  #412  
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Originally Posted by meatmonkey
Does the 4 cyl gear drive case end up with it's mounting boss in the same location, with the adapter, as does your stock 6-cyl chain drive case? I'm skeptical that it'll just bolt up to your fancy Budbuilt skid without modification.

I dont know, Ive never done it before. I hope so, "they" say it will, but will modify if I need to.

You don't actually "need" a top shift case. You can make your own by cutting down and welding the "forward shift" rod and then bolt the shifter in the stock "top shift" location. I've done it a couple times now to make them work in the back of a dual case adapter.

Call me if your looking for a gear drive 4 cyl case, I should have a couple/few.

Ill call you tomorrow. I got your message about rc crawlin. Im very bad at returning calls.

Isn't it cheaper to buy a dual adapter than it is to buy low range gears? You'll end up with an even lower crawl ratio, and then you don't loose your "mud" low range. Just stirring the pot, that's all.

I mean, if I found 2 cases, and another adapter.. I could be persuaded...

Is this thing making it to Bradford next month? If my stock junk made it through the rockcrawl, this thing should own.
Meh, Im not really a competition kinda guy, but maybe in the fall..
Oh, and all the cool kids are running spooled diffs front and rear. Welcome to the club.
Thanks! Ive been waiting to get this truck into this club for 7 years now! Haha.

Originally Posted by bone collector
when you factor in the new front and rear drive shafts and a new mount for dual cases, rear 4.7 gears are way cheaper than dual t cases. maybe not as cool but way cheaper. and you aren't the only one who is jealous on the find.
Really, its wide open right now. The adapter plate it just the first piece. I have more square toob for a front shaft, and I have a 2 piece rear shaft that is very easy to shorten the first peice...and if I have to make a new skid I might just flatbelly it tooo... Next winters project maybe. Depends on what I can find for cases.

If you give a mouse a cookie.

Last edited by rattlewagon; Apr 2, 2014 at 04:02 AM.
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 06:31 PM
  #413  
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Made a bed space out of a piece of pallet rack. Small U channel supports welded to the frame keep it pretty rigid. The grate allows me to attach pretty much anything to it. Tire is on by a piece of threaded rod with an old piece off a chevy tire carrier. Hi lift will probably end up on the back of the X brace.

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Oil leak ended up being the back cam cover. Was able to turn each of the bolts a bit without taking off the plenum, and it seems to be working. So in testing, the rear end started making that same slipping sound the front did.

[youtube]-MfqEAjOQ2A[/youtube]

So I fixed that one too.

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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 01:59 AM
  #414  
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Snap, Crackle, Pop! Good job on the new "lincoln locker"
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 05:51 AM
  #415  
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Homemade locker looks good!!

I love that video that you posted on removing the birfield. Its so informative!
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 09:05 AM
  #416  
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Originally Posted by Gizler00
Homemade locker looks good!!

I love that video that you posted on removing the birfield. Its so informative!
Thanks! The IFS hubs and creeper flanges make it even easier. I think I can pull the front 3rd faster than the rear now...
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 10:12 AM
  #417  
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Siiiiiiick!
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 01:30 PM
  #418  
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Nice work
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 04:29 PM
  #419  
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i actually read through your entire build. Wow what a change your truck has become. So im wondering cause i cant tell since your front diff is welded now do you still have lockouts or just the dustcap??Might be a stupid question but im trying to get this ifs hub swap figured out when i get my knuckle rebuild kit in i have a half a$$ idea what im doing. Youve really tested your ifs by the previous pics on your build. I can only imagine what youll be able to conquer now. I really like how your running that pitman arm with the notched frame and how you built your leaf packs for the lower stance,you definetly accomplished it.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:10 AM
  #420  
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He is using the drive flanges that come with add instead of locking hubs. They have a center hole that allows the dust cap to be exposed.
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