hey mark. i have plans to be at the Jamboree this year with just the runner. hope to cruise around the dunes in it. no high speed since im not set up for it but it is fun to get a group of yota and drive around


i know this doesnt exactly apply to you issue but it does sound close and a great start imo. just open the attachment in the link

https://www.yotatech.com/51771070-post6.html

 

Mark, it's plug n play so the connector on the upgrade harness will readily fit your current H6054 sealed-beam and it will also fit the future H4 bulb when you eventually upgrade. Connectors are exactly same geometry as stock. No need to upgrade your housings (Silverstars) now, because they're good. The stock circuit is crap so its better to upgrade that first.

Yes, it will benefit you by upgrading your alternator since you're adding extra load on top of stock electric circuit, especially if you plan to do dual-battery. The advantage to having higher capacity alternator is that as load uses up battery power, it's also more capable to re-charge quicker and also to cahrge your second battery.
I do not recommend messing with the stock fuse block and fusible link when you upgrade alternator. Those are designed to protect stock circuits/wiring.
Additional circuit should be wired directly to your battery through fused distribution block that you already have so they do not add load to stock fusible link and fuses. The battery so strong, it will handle all the additional load.
Re Wiring, you only need to:

• Replace your batt-to alternator "B" wire (thick white) with thicker wire. "B" wire goes from alternator screw post to fuse block here. See Philbert's post on for thickness.
• Upgrade grounds

I would remove the ashtray (I don't smoke because my brand is illegal-LOL!), and install window switches so it's recessed in there, but accessible when sleeping in rear deck.
I do not recommend tapping off the console switch circuit because that requires that ignition be on in order to work, and the reason you want to install rear-deck window controls is so you can control windows without having to scramble to driver seat to turn ignition on.
It is quite easy to simply tap off control relay pins 11 & 12, then run it to rear of console. This is the cleaner, robust solution that merely duplicates tailgate key control.

Cool. Thanks! Wanna install the upgrade shocks cause I want to minimize space taken up by parts

Can't comment on the "RPM gremlins", yet; Gotta read it some more.

 

Just checking in to see if you found the leak definitively. And to liven the place up a lil. Not too long after our last text msgs, we had a couple visitors.

A couple forked horns decided we weren't threatening enough to deter them from the apples nearby.
More than likely you're thinking they look delicious, though, and I can't say I disagree with you!

Btw, I'll probably have some updates on my thread shortly after I get home again.

 

Cool to hear on the Pismo end!

WOW! What a trip, that PDF! I don't have the"idle up when AC is off" issue... But the issue regarding the cold start injector time switch and Thermal temp time switch is interesting.... To say the least! When I replaced Thermal time time switch on the thermostat housing, I ordered it at the dealer through my older buddy that retired, Mikey. He really did a good job at checking to see if there were updates and upgrades to certain parts. He would show me on the printout that there were like 4 different part numbers on certain things, and he would order accordingly. when I replaced it, the pin backed out of the connector and my buddy who is an electrical engineer reconnected it with a little bit more wire that he soldered on, as far as I can feel it is staying put.

Cold start injector time switch... I just find it bizarre that it would have a hot soak affect like that, or I guess I should say hot restart after setting 15-20 minutes. That sure is pretty tell tale of what I got going on.

It's such am obvious miss/erratic hiccup,...... I'm just not sure if it's efi/fuel/ign or mechanically related... It just blows my mind that I can have such nasty symptoms, and still,....NO CODES! Good ole OBD1, eh? Lol

As for the headlight wiring upgrade and alternator upgrade, I get you.

In regards to the switch method you did,.... I totally agree on that method being better... I only meant if I grounded the front one (Which I really don't want, as I don't want the first one being constant hot).... Bottom line is that I should have done this when I was doing the panels... I got distracted and put it off. ... It's going to be a bit of a pita but I'ma get to it eventually.

Cool indeed on the shocks! you and Dragon be shock'n it soon, lol.....

I understand on the "no comment...yet" on the gremlin......

 

 

I apologize for the sound confusion of the videos.^^^^^^^^^^^^

There is something about the Droid, higher end Phones even, that are not perfect with.....well, I don't I know exactly what it is, but... I could tell that when I'm speaking its cutting the engine noise out, which is supposed to do... Some type of noise canceling thing? But. Basically its like every single noise the engine puts out is amplified to the same level of each other, when they are not. It doesn't really sound at all like that video. Maybe it's just my speaker on my phone that makes it sound that way. I will try it with the headphones and get back to you, but... it just does not sound right. The weird thing is is that I hear some things that almost sound like valves & bearings &, well, very detailed stuff, that I guess I'm saying my ears cannot pick them up separately...???

However, I tried my best to explain things so I hope that when somebody watches, it will click on something in there memory... Because, I'm not going to chase my tail this time. I'll check anything, as everybody knows and as I've shown myself checking on some things 20 times over... But I'm just exhausted with this crap. Just way too long with one little gremlin into some bigger ones after another... But,........... It freaking runs.... and for the most part, pretty well... So I guess I should just wrap up the oil leaks, granting its not a really slow head gasket leaking outwards type of leak... Then take a look at certain things here and there as time goes by.

My problem with slapping on a New-OEM cold start injector time switch, ... Well let's just say its a $200 factor, maybe? Lol. Then again, I could try other units, like I could have tried the one that I sent to Philbert.... But, then that was an original 87 part( not updated part number with updated innards) , which, I understand, would kinda defeat the purpose.( although, now that I think about it, I'm not sure cold start injector time switch that I sent a filbert was 87 version. If they changed by 88, well then maybe that's why he's having better luck? Lol... Hahahahaha. I'm going to read what you post again, Toyo, but I think what the article was saying as far as change in 88 was that they changed to having no thermo temp time switch anymore? Yeah, I gotta read that again. How about I just drive it up to Fresno & drop it off with you until it's done, problem solved? Hahaha!

What is really interesting, & I guess it would be telling if I knew what it was telling..., is that the engine, during hot restarts after seven twenty minutes, does not sure once ina problems for about 5 seconds... That it runs like crap and will stay that way if I don't step on the frontal or drive it off... It will not smooth out if I leave it to its own. Then, that is one of the other points... It starts and runs smooth for a few seconds and then with someone if you lation of the throttle or putting it under load, it comes out of it... That should be pointing me right in one specific directions... I just wish I knew what the hell it was. .... Hehehe

 

* I listened to both videos with my headphones on and it is definitely a hundred times more clear with my headphones then when I listen through the phones speaker. It's actually a decent speaker but it doesn't work properly for the practical application of these videos. Anyway....

1st: I have a Rough Idle after hot restart/After sitting 15-20 minutes (Hot Soak, maybe?).....

These videos and pics should show all of what I'm looking at. ...

1. Pics of oily spots before cleanup. ...

A. Front main seal/Oil Pump leak.....



B. Around Oil Pump....



Bottom left of next Pic, a build up in very localized area....



C. The rest of the pics are localized to Head/timing Cover/block union on passenger side (possibly passenger side, just can't see in there).....And Valve cover half moon......












D. All cleaned up.......Attempting to reference these and figure out source.....





Two videos I posted above are pertaining to both these oil leaks and gremlins......

******************************************

I understand that for some, I always have a bit to much to read through, I apologize again to those who just don't have the time ... So that's why I did this last post here regarding this oil leak and gremlin combo.

I will test whatever I can, but I have no shame in saying I can't wait to see the day when all of this crap is figured out, whether 100 percent at someone elses credit or not!.... My only worry is that it is, yet again, mechanical. In other words, valvetrain or otherwise top end related, etc.

PS: If you notice in the video, if you are able to watch, I had it running for quite a bit and even pulled up the idol to around 2000rpm for about a minute or so... And the EGR pipe is still ice cold. I'm a bit confused on that one. I will drive it around a bit longer in the near future and give that a check. I know I got it very clean and it seems to pass all the tests related to a EGR operation and modulator as well.

 

i would just follow the TSB i linked you. i know its $200 but that is where i would tell you to replace if it came into my shop and see what happens. i know it sucks but with older vehicles, we just have to base it off what we find in TSB/repair manuals and go from there.
if i owned your runner mark, i would keep driving it till it gets worst otherwise replacing parts till its fixed is next. maybe you need to adjust your TPS?

your "oil leak" doesnt really look like a leak. a leak is when you see wet oil. looks like you may have some seepage that may get worst or its just old stuff, maybe some wd40 was sprayed around that area and collect dirt when you had the SAS done

^the video shows it is wet and leaking. my bad lol. i was just looking at the pictures. i trying to watch the video but its a little slow on my old computer lol.

ps: any word on the stock pitman arms? did you wanna sell any of them? i havent heard back from you on this?

 

....Hmmm wish my oil leaks appeared that minor. Hoping for the best on the gremlins, you ll get it! Looking good on the cb and latest upgrades, keep up the great work!

 

braving the dangers of the wasps that have made my 79 their home i can show ya an oil leak! lol

im hoping the gremlin is just a oddball sensor

 

Same here. Mine also leaks because I think it still has the original, un-rebuilt engine. Too expensive to have just the leak fixed.
I think 4crawler's site has a procedure for TPS check. I was starting to follow it, but my registration expired, and I had been so busy so I just took it the shop, and they found the TPS bad. NOt bad for a 27-YO truck.

 

mark said he has a new TPS. it might just need to be adjusted but the TSB does seem like what your issue is. waiting till it get worst is free and it may never get worst and you will have a 3rz/ or v8 under the hood by than

 

I hear ya, I just hate throwing money at it! But I totally hear ya... After all this time and testing the ECU and air flow meter and TVs and entire emission system and doing multiple notifications and deletions to aid in helping the vehicle run better... And searching for the gremlins... I've just about had enough and I'm ready to throw a couple parts on it! Lol.

ME 2! AND. .... Thanx bud!

ME 2!!!

Below, bud.... >>>

New OEM;

TPS, IACV, 02, CTSensor (next to CSI Time Switch), EGR Modulator (EGR THOROUGHLY cleaned AND getting hot/retested it today, including response to MightyVac vacuum pump ), Every Emissions related AND IACV vacuum hoses AND air intake elbow to throttle body (brake booster vacuum lines and air flow meter to air intake tube rubber joint connector not new), PCV, ALL 5 injectors serviced by RC INJECTORS, all fairly new Denso Plugs, LCE 8MM Plug Wires ( I'm not sure that people should go with these wires on a fairly stock motor, mildly built or not... I'm not knocking them, but from what I've been told it's best to stick with stock), fuel pump(Bosch Premium, red excellent pressure at the fuel pressure regulator at one point... And I know, I should have went with OEM.... Live and learn! And yet, I doubt that its bad) ....

Fuel filter could use replacing eventually.. Although it's not even been 20,000 miles. Still, I am likely to replace that soon as it's just good maintenance and not very expensive! Gotta keep those RC serviced injectors as clean as possible right?

FRP, DAMPER, FPR VSV, EGR, AFM, COIL, IGNITOR, CTsending unit (guage), Knock Sensor..... All orig.

*******************************

As far as checking the TPS, thats free and can't hurt anything either... I could also take in the throttle body to a friend and see if its got that freakish undetectable by codes type of gremlins in the throttle body shaft... From what I was told before by my machinist, it's an acceptable amount of play, and in regards to setting the TPS, I did everything according to Rogers recommendations and I have done in about 15 times for my truck and several other people. I take no offense to anyone mentioning it and have no problem checking it again..... it's just that I've had these gremlins or similar ones for so long, and going from my original TPS to this one and having it adjusted according to specs several times, etc., etc., etc.... I just highly doubt it is the culprit, especially considering the way it is acting. I wouldn't think it would be something that would come and go such as it is.

I think it's very possible that my slight miss when running OK may have nothing to do with the warm start gremlins. The hot start gremlin has only read its head over the last few months and maybe not even three thousand miles.

**************************

As far as waiting until it gets worse, but I would like to get to the bottom of it as my guess would be that I am wasting absolutely horrid amount of fuel in town, and can only get decent mileage when on the highway... For a good darn reason! I will do the most basic test for the GPS as soon as possible, are jumping depends on the diagnostic port. As you can tell him the videos my truck very rarely gives me any problems starting and often starts on the first or second rotation of the starter to flywheel gear!

Maybe when I come to Pismo, God willing I will be able to go, between 200 people or so there might have an answer!?!? Who knows. .. Hahaha

 

Update.....kinda.....maybe? Plus just for the video documentation of the gremlin and oil leaks.....



Oil leak on head/halh moon area....


*******************************

After reading the PDF that Toyo posted again, I realize that it is suggesting that the rough idle at hot soaks after 15 to 30 minutes of the car being off is referring to the thermal temp time switch that is on top of the thermostat housing. that is the part that it recommends be replaced which is already has... But I also noticed that it is also the one that goes with the instructions of pulling that pin out of that particular ECU connector pin housing. I did not pull that pin when replacing that unit, and yet it seems to only be referring to people that have AC "experiencing a high idle even when the AC is off." That does not happen to me. However, while simply unplugging that temperature time switch on the thermostat housing might not be totally telling as to whether or not it is the problem... I figure what the heck. I will have to do it tomorrow as I have a big party tonight. However, it will feel good to at least rule out one thing. I may also take notes on my TPS specs while I am at it.

 

my temp gauge used to overshoot not quite the problem you have but it would say I'm overheating when i wasn't i removed the sensor and put in a mechanical sensor and aftermarket gauge. I do remember seeing a thread a while back of someone having a similar issue with their temp gauge as yours I will try and find it again for you.

Heres a few things i found.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ge-fix-271152/

Pulled this from a thread, might be helpful
Most of the other threads i have looked at all report similar issues and most point to the gauge itself. next time it does that try givin the dash a whack, if it fixes it its likely a short in the gauge. Hope it helps man!

 

Thanks a bunch, Brandon. I really appreciate you taking the time to lend some input.

Yeah, I've figured for a while that the gauge has to be the culprit. I didn't know about that test and I will check it out.

They sure are weird "miss" type gremlins, aren't they? I'll run it today and pull the Thermal Temp Time Switch connector from the switch. Hopefully that wont just throw it into open loop again, which would make it a useless test as it would do the same thing as pulling the TPS would.

Far as that last video relating to the leak on the top side, I need to get the valve cover off in a timely manner and will probably end up using my spare half moon seals. I'm thinking about replacing the valve cover gasket is well but it only has about 10,000 miles on it...

 

i would change the gasket for the valve cover. they're pretty cheap and are recommended to change when you pull the cover. would hate to fix the half moon plugs then have the vc leak right after haha

 

I hear you're Brandon. It's just kind of weird to me because I rarely have any leaks up there... So many times a week for the pan or the AC bolt to the timing cover hole or some other totally weird crap cause by the way first builder. Anyway, I'm pretty sure that 90 percent of the cause of the week there is just not having a proper amount of sealant on the bottom side and a half moon. You shouldn't put too much but it's clearly not enough. Of course it could be leaking at the top corners... Are the way its gotta go... And yes I will replace this 10000 mile old valve cover gasket.... Grrrr. Lol.

Weird little miss,... And hot soak drama... it has stumped many fairly apt Toyota mechanics... I hope that I can stumble on it through the stuff that you guys have given me and others but I've already tried in the past... Basically testing every single sensor and item on the truck. Haha.

Hearing that little squeal in the belt on the first of the last 3 videos... That struck me as odd as well. Really can only be three things, power steering, fan, or water pump. Well, I guess if my clutch was feeling on my ac it could be that as well... But it seems to be working flawlessly. Tiny little squeal, and considering I'm having some weird steering stuff going on, my guess is its either that I got a bad your box what is way over working my steering pump, or two. It is just a coincidence and is a failing steering pump... Or 3..... Its both or none of the above? Hahahahaha. I guess I just have to laugh about this crap before I break something. But then nothing runs problem free forever... Its just that I would hope none of these brand new things would be failing.

 

Valve cover kit ordered... Heading out to ship tuyo some pitman arms and pick up the valve cover gasket kit.

For the hell of it I will probably check my head bolt torque rating... Depending on whether I have time or not I'm I checked the valve lash is well. If its way out again that might indicate that I definitely have a problem with the cam. I doubt it though. It seems to run so smoothly when it is warm and on the highway, getting fairly decent mileage at freeway speeds. No misfire or backfire... No smoking or fuming out too bad do too unbirth feel... But something's wrong for sure. That's the time to check that crap is when you have the valve cover off, so I might as well..... .007 & .009.... SEXAYYYYY! Lol

 

I picked up the Valve cover kit, got Toyo his stuff shipped... ran a few errands and then I had to get back to work. Of course the freaking bank took me longer than anything.

Here's a video of basically I just wanted to share that I unplugged the TTTS, the sensor on top the thermostat housing... The gremlins kept right on rambling on shaking and idling at 400 to 500 rpm... Didn't seem to change a thing . I don't know, maybe its doing its job? Hahaha....

I'm going to change out the Valve cover kit, check the TPS, unplug the TPS during the gremlins, unplug the cold start injector time switch again during the gremlin , and possibly check my valve lash and head bolt torque. How to p*** off at my AC VSV is only working when the truck is cold. I guess I can usually it seems to work when its fully warm but very rarely.