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RAD4Runner RAD4Runner is offline

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  1. bynutbuster
    07-04-2016 11:13 AM - permalink
    Thanks 4 help ,my backup sensor is on driver side I checked something on the leftside (Neutral switch) ?, but anyway got one at Toyota, wasn't the pigtail one , so changed it anyway boink backups work. I pushed in spring part and a bit of oil kept coming out of it ripped diaphragm in there I guess . It works
  2. Vernsyota
    03-02-2016 02:40 PM - permalink
    I just got my first Toyota. 87 4x4, I had to put a motor in it. Of course I am having ignition problems. I have read the post but am still a little confused about ST1 at the ignition switch. From what I can tell two brown wires at the switch go hot when I turn the key but neither are ST1. I have been cleaning connections, but still no luck. Also,changed the switch just because I had an extra that I know was working(still nothing). Also, no turn signals or wipers. Ran toggle switch from battery to solenoid and motor fires right up. I still need wipers and turn signals. HELP
  3. greasyglue
    01-27-2016 10:33 PM - permalink
    Yourock! Well done thanks
  4. RAD4Runner
    12-07-2015 06:33 PM - permalink
    cool. Most happy to help. Cheers!
  5. briholt
    12-07-2015 09:40 AM - permalink
    Thanks Rad, I think I've got enough info to make this work; just thought I'd check with you first. Cheers
  6. briholt
    12-06-2015 09:26 PM - permalink
    Hi Rad,

    Been reading many of your posts (thank you!) on the windshield trim repair threads & I have a question about your gasket choice. I think you said that the safelight guy installed it, but did you pick out the gasket or did he?

    If you picked it out, was it this one, which was discussed earlier in a thread you chimed in on:


    Or was it this one:


    I think it was the 2nd one, b/c you said you trimmed off the part for easy rinsing.

    I'm asking b/c I'm having my windshield replaced tomorrow & it's gonna need new trim & some body work.

    FYI, I have a 1991 pickup delux xtended cab.

    Thanks for your help/advice.
  7. sarmoby
    09-22-2015 01:24 PM - permalink
    Hi RAD- Just to let you know on the starter relay problem,

    87 Carbed 22R 4x4 also has the starter relay. Not sure if the COR is behind the glove box as we likely don't need it but perhaps it has a different function on a Carbed motor?(If I have more issues, I may look for it as well).
    My specific problem appears to be the black wire you cut at the starter relay. One black wire has power and the other does not yet the schematic shows them connected to each other. You mentioned that it should have power with the key in- I will re-check this) but it does not have power during crank.
    I took apart the contacts within the key and found some tracing and a bit of pitting.

    I was able to push start the vehicle but had no gauges or dash power on the way home.

    Thank you for your write-up. It did occur to me that that relay should go straight to the battery rather than back to the wiring harness. Just reluctant to abandon a wire without knowing WHY it died.

  8. oregon taco
    02-20-2015 04:59 AM - permalink
    oregon taco
    Hi Rad,

    I had an AFR gauge installed (stand alone supposedly) on my 98 Tacoma. It now has issues with excessive crank, but eventually starts. This only occurs after it has sat for 1/2 hour. However when I unplug the new AFR gauge, the truck starts fine. Do you think the shop that installed it did it incorrectly? Do you think they may have disabled something else under my dash? The manual that comes with this thing is very vague. I asked the mechanic how he wired it, and he said to the cigarette lighter. I asked him about ground, and he said just behind the gauge itself. Any help would be much appreciated. The brand of AFR is "Innovative LC1."
  9. cyru
    11-20-2014 03:45 PM - permalink
    Mr. Rad,
    I am working on an 88 Toyota Corolla FX with AT and after replacing the carburetor with a rebuilt, the charge light and the brake light remained on. It was the same carburetor that I took of and I had sent it to National Carburetors in Florida. I was reading a thread from 2013 re a truck with a similar problem. I noticed that one of your many great posts had a diagram that had the choke heater wire circled that said to be sure that there was no short in the choke. The charging system seemed to be working fine and when I detached the choke the dash lights went out. I hooked up a spare choke (without installing it on the carburetor) and the bi-metal strip worked and the dash lights didn't come on. I am planning to replace the choke tomorrow. However, I couldn't find a short in the choke assembly. When I tested the resistance, the "bad" choke tested at 16.9 ohms and the "good" choke tested at 18.7. The manual says that the reading should be 18 ohms. Any advice?
  10. gpdrgrowley
    05-20-2014 05:16 AM - permalink
    Hi Rad...I just got off phone with Terry. He gave me a few ideas but I was hoping you could call me. My # is (815) 650-3166, Gary.

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    86 4Runner, dlx, 22R-E, 5-Speed Manual.


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