Here's a link to a harness RSR just used from his post in my headlight harness upgrade thread... really nice features ceramic plugs so heat is no issue...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-H.../330813121438?

and a link to my thread itself... the procedure would be more or less identical for your truck...

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...w-pics-235789/

hope this helps bro...
once you get the antenna tuned properly your comms range will go way up.
I was talking to a shop up here a few yrs ago about one of those all in hand radios and they were telling me they could extend the wires in the base unit so you could mount the socket almost anywhere that had a solid surface to mount it in... really opens up a lot of stealth possibilities... only downside was extending the wires would mean opening the base box which would void the mfg. warranty.

 

Ray, Paul, DZ, DRAGON......THANK YOU!

I've decided, plain and simple, I need a higher output alternator/better battery/would like to do dual batteries and really would like to update/upgrade my wiring AND headlights ( I mean if its not too much work to upgrade the headlights at the same time... It seems to me it would make much more sense to do it all at once... But that's a variable that's not a deal breaker. I understand that can be done at a later date.... It's just that, well, while my Silverstar headlights are definitely improvement over the stock... They still can't even compare to the 2003 CRV headlights. Those are the second to Best version of Sylvania. What I mean is there is a standard package and then a middle package that is like blue and yellow?... And then there is the Silver Star which i think is the best one that they put out... Yes No maybe so? Hahaha ).

I'm not positive as to which type of bulb I would choose, but in regards to the housings, it seems to me that the Hella are the current preferred on the market and ready to ship models out atm? .... I will also look up the PIAA stuff, as I'm not sure whether they have housings as well... But, I think I've read enough negative feedback about the Autopal's to warrant the extra 40 or so dollars. I know nearly nothing about h4 bulbs, but I do know that the Silver Stars are preferred among the stock type versions, or basically what I mean is off the shelf at Autozone or Pepboys... Correct? SuperbrightLEDs.com and several other online vendors offer Xenon bulbs, but I'm not sure if they are better or not. I know that, for the most part, these h4's are not totally legal, and from what I know it is totally illegal to put LED setups in our older rigs... Correct? HID's are another option, but they are definitely not as plug plug & play and are even more illegal/ or at least more likely to get me pulled over ... Correct?

I will stick with the modifications that I have going on right now, but there's no reason I can't get to ordering the exact thing that I know I'm going to use. Either way, I really need to work on a solution for all the power draw that I have. I understand that brake lights use a decent amount of power, and that they might explain a slight drop in rpm whereas the parking lights or turn signal might not have as much of an effect.

 

Paul, I have a question..

Aren't my bulbs 5x7? Looking at that link to eBay it says 7x6. Maybe I'm confused or something.

 

Had AB MOBILE'S Alberto Benucci solder in my Firering CB coax connector & set my SWR's today! WHAT A GREAT DUDE!

I'm uploading some videos from today but I have to edit, unfortunately. Somehow , all three times, I rotated the camera without hitting autofocus or something beforehand and I have to upload them to YouTube and use Video Editor to rotate them. This guy has one of the coolest old radio museums inside of his shop... You guys are going to really trip out on some of this stuff if you are into this.

I will share a few things I learned today, one of them being that the type of spring that you use is very particular to the length of antenna. 2 foot to 3 foot antennas need a medium duty spring... The spring that I got that was heavy duty should only be used with 4 foot and 5 foot. I noticed that when the 3 foot antenna was swinging a little bit on the heavy duty springs,... The spring barely budged and most of the sway went to the bracket. I did not like that at all... And that's when he explained all that he did. We put on a medium duty firestick spring that he happen to have right there, and right then and there I could take my antenna and bend it almost totally over 90 degrees.

He also told me that after 40 years in this business he thinks that the fire ring is one of the best inventions to come out. He has so few occasions where he has any problem getting it set up when he uses the firering.

I also thought I had lost a piece to the setup that he had to solder on. The outer wire of the co ax on the new fire stick type connectors just screws in to the threads... And then you solder in the end. He said I made a wise choice and letting him do it instead of buying one that was already done. He said many times, even the fire stick is a good brand and has less problems than many other brands, you're just not going to get as much attention to detail as when you have it done by hand and with care.

He spent a good half an hour explaining to me why people use two antennas and how that works in a crazy 8 or infinity formation, which can a specially help when you are trying to reach out to the sides. But he said for trail purposes the setup that I have work fine and should give me, from the readings that he got, anywhere from four to five mile range. He has one of those units and he said when they are set right, they are quite impressive for a handheld unit and that in fact the handheld unit actually has more components of the many of the smaller cheaper CB's. Anyway.....

That was one of the most fun conversations I had with an older professional in a long time! He spent with me over 2 hours... And the guy basically barely charge me anything, and pretty much only charge me for the parts that I got. One of the things I purchased from him was a super heavy-duty hanger. I don't like the hanger that was supplied with the Cobra 75 wxst. Its very cheesy, so I was going to reuse one of my older ones that are much better quality. But he pulled out the slot type, and I test fit it and noticed that it is way tighter and holding on the tang in the back of the handheld piece.

 

But I would first post the video of Alberto Bellucci's Lil Radio Museum. WOW was this a cool day! ......


(I have uploaded the video of him setting the SWR's, but I had to edit. The cool thing about that is that I just figured out how to rotate videos that are cockeyed or in other words 90 degree angle the wrong way..... It takes awhile for it to go through the whole thing and flip every frame I guess... As soon as its done I will post it up. I will also likely do a shortened thread of just my CB, antenna and bracket install.)

 

im glad things went so well what did he say bout the fold over?
the dual whip white firesticks are what i had on my 88 nissan kingcab with ground plane stars and fold overs so the height wouldnt kill lights when i pulled into parking garages ...did that once 12 tubes did not survive the encounter.... (sheepsih dragon ducks under desk)

 

He didn't dislike them, but he said it could change things a lil going up another 4". He did confirm what I have read on a couple of different threads and that those pulled over and quick disconnects do have a little tiny bit of slop in them and it always translates to at least a couple to 3 inches off sway. For me, I think it's fine to just keep it wrapped up and tucked away and tell him on a trip. I really don't have much use for it in town and I'm not sure I have time for another hobby, lol. He didn't seem to care much for the 5-way type that come up off of a post and go five different directions either.

He also said that angling the antenna a few degrees to run up the pillar would not change things enuff to have to worry about it. But, he said the way it is now it looks very near perfectly vertical, which is a good thing.

 

Mark, our bulb housings are H6054 aka 7x6 Inch aka 200mm. If using the conversion housing it will take H4 aka 9003 bulbs. You're correct, Silverstars and silverstar Ultra's supposedly significantly brighter than standard halogens.

Conversion harness upgrade can be easily done even after your alternator upgrade; It's plug n play. Your Silverstars are already better than stock, but the stock wiring is crap, so However, if you have money burning a hole in your pocket (heh-heh), use it for the harness before the conversion headlight housing.

BTW,
Would you please refresh me with link to "your electrical gremlin"?
Also, if the Rancho shocks I got from you OK to use with my Zukd rear?

 

First, I'll just answer you, Ray, then post my other video.....

I'm fairly frugal, Ray... Even if I do 'spend money' in spurts, is budget driven , and I TRY to make sure that I'm getting the best part that I can put in. I say try because sometimes, even when I read tons of information, I wind up with the wrong item. Haha. ( I have a couple of antenna parts or I should say CB system parts that I don't need. But out of everything that's a total of like $20. I'm sure somebody can use it)

As far as the harness upgrade: They sound pretty straightforward, and I think it's a great idea. As far as the light housings, I've seen too many people with cheap aftermarket knockoffs that don't fit right and so forth. I'd love to get the easy peezy lemon squeezy style bulbs that I can just pull out... I always absolutely hate changing the sealed beam light bulb. And, I can't tell you how many friends I read where people broke the housing or something in there when trying to get the sealed beam bulb out.

I guess what I don't understand is whether or not the harness from the link RSR provided and Grego is grabbing has connectors that will plug right into my head lights that are in there now, the Silver Star sealed beam. I should know this already and I'm sorry... I will re read, but I just don't have a lot of extra time lately and I'm overwhelming my brain with too much information. OK,... Sending a text to myself, right now!

* By the way, Ray, I never heard back from that one bigger alternator guy that is in, I believe, Whittier. Dang, there goes that too much information thing again... Ace alternators? I think that's it? Anyway, he supposedly has the 130 amp direct swap in... But what I wanted to really ask you was do I serve myself well by installing something like that and not upgrading all the wiring? I am NOT opposed to rewiring the power supply and also some of my fusible link box and redoing all of my Y connectors to the injectors... And so forth. Adding some of those things to whichever wiring I am doing is not such a big deal. I just don't know how to do most of it, right off the top of my head ........ That's the little problem therein! Hahahahaha.

I also need to wire in my back seat window switch. I have plenty of wire and we'll get more if I don't, but I want to get that over with. I'm willing to cut a little rectangle out on the back of my console below or above the ashtray... But I think on the side of the console on the bottom portion that doesn't lift would be best, where it couldn't actually be kicked or something? My other idea was just to put it into one of the rear pockets on the cargo panels. Not in the bottom portion where it can get filled up of liquid or something... I just mean against the side probably in the spot that you can't see as you're looking in there, toward the drivers left side on the driver side. I really don't want to have to remove my panels though. So , I'm not sure I want to to put it in the pocket as it would be a lot more wiring and I would have to come off of the existing switch in front of the console.

Thanks a lot buddy, you're always a great help.

** as far as the shocks, yes, they should be direct plug in play and you shouldn't have any problem running them with the setup that you have now.

As far as my grandma, it is seemingly morphing into additional issues since my SAS.

1. When I restart when fully warmed up, after sitting for several minutes, it very quickly against idle down to around 4 to 500 rpm and doesn't die but will continue to do that until I hold on the throttle around 1500 rpm or so for a few seconds, maybe 10-15 seconds. Or, I can simply take off driving and within a few seconds of being under load it comes out of it.

2. When that particular gremlin is acting up, and it is idling down, it seems as though it is running on 2 to 3 cylinders. That may not be the case it's just an easy way to describe it as it is a serious rumble in the jungle with what appears to be a heavy miss.

3. Lately, when I started cold and the idle air control valve cycles out, it seems to drop fairly rapidly from around a thousand rpm to 800 and then runs pretty chunky until again I Drive out of it.

4. In spite of the final there suggested screw on the front body be nearly all the way out commerce the aisle seems to be holding around 700 to 750 rpm . Without screw else up for it should be well over 900 and closer to 1100.

5. I have no idea if it's related but it seems as though when I've let the trucks it and I started up and it does the first gremlins, if I hold on the gas like I mentioned, it seems more than coincidental that every time, when it seems to come out of it, that's right at the time that the fan shuts off.

6. When I put on my headlights I drop over a hundred RPM. Brake lights show A slight drop as well if I hold it long enough... Not sure if it has anything to do with the lights or if it might be a vacuum leak.

I could go back and post up hundreds of posts and updates with tons of technical information as far as readings and so forth... But I'll leave it at this for now...

These things are new...OEM:

COOLANT TEMP SENSOR, 02, TTTS (on the thermostat housing), EGR MODULATOR, IACV, 5 INJECTORS SERVICED BY RC INJECTORS

NOT NEW:

CSI TIME SWITCH, FPR, FUEL DAMPER, COIL, IGNITOR, INJECTOR Y CRIMPS, DIZZY SECONDARY, DIZZY .....

I'm sure I can add more just ask.

 

Video:

Getting the SWR setting done by Alberto Benucci at his shop, AB Mobile.

He curses a little bit so forgive me... He got really excited sharing all of this stuff, and the guy has an amazing story.

 

Chef, why aren't you just making your own harness? It's simple, and 4 crawler provides a diagram, and he's even reachable by email.
That said, get yourself some H4 connectors from amazon, they will plug into your sealed beams and then when you go bulb or hid you use am h4 connect, so this headlight upgrade can be done in phases. Stop talking about it and run some 10awg wireto the headlight area and to the fuse block under the hood

 

Haha, gotcha. Ok, I just didn't get how the change in plugs works. I bookmarked Rogers tech data.

Thanks.... I hear ya, I guess I'm just still a lil confused by wiring diagrams, lol. I'm read his stuff til I get it. The connectors,.....I want ceramic, correct? Did you do this?

 

Just a quick post of a couple alternator upgrade ideas. I have read how they're being smaller can cause some problems with going to high up in amperage....

Main page for everyone....

http://stores.ebay.com/ACE-ALTERNATO...=p4634.c0.m322

My rig, literally "in particular", lol.....

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=190581494031

 

that harness i linked to on ebay has ceramic plugs for hotter bulbs be they silverstars or H4's

just to ya know H4's and sealed beam bulbs have the same connector 3 prong plug

you can make your own as well mark the guides linked are quite good and i dont mind talking ya through it

 

Yes I did it using ceramic h4 plugs

 

Couple updates. ....

1. Spoke to Ace_Alternators: I was pretty satisfied with his answers as to why he would choose one of the upgraded Toyota alternators, and he even offered a properly upgraded GM swap... Said it was totally up to me and let him know. I will do another post with more details when I'm finished for the evening.

2. I did a little pre-install ROCK Light video that I will also upload in a little while... Which led me to number 3.......

3. While doing the video and crawling around under the car I noticed that I have what looks like a front main seal leaking. ... It seems to seal up quickly as it warms up, but obviously its something I have to deal with since it's not like I'm doing an engine swap in the next couple weeks. Lol... Just let me the number 4.......

4. I decided to do a warm up and hot start couple of videos... And in the process I was also looking for possible other sources of the oil at the bottom of the oil pump. I've actually had other leaks that wound up there that came from the steering/etc. Nope, it appears to be the front main seal. In the process looking around and doing my gremlins videos, I noticed that I have some oil or residue built up mostly around the head to timing cover 2 block corners . It's actually up on the head and timing cover and block in that area. I also noticed that I have some seepage from what looks like the front half moon. I cleaned everything up and I do have before and after pictures that I will post up later along with the video that will show what it is 90 percent likely,.... that the oil pump area leak is coming from the front main seal.

Needless to say I'm not ecstatic, but this is all crap I've done many times and I will figure it out.

 

I to have a front seal oil leak, well drip drip. And over the years it has kept my front end rust free. Out of sight out of mind............ Now with the SAS i will check it out. I will go with the sleeve and or the offset oil seal......Ich werde ertragen.

 

Trure, but Ain't they always breeders, these gremlins??? Grrrr... lol. These things have not leaked for two straight years... Obviously could be worse. But come on! Hahaha

 

Ps: are you going to pismo jamboree?

 

Sweet video Mark that Mr. Benucci reminds me of a couple of guys IK up here... wicked skilled and great stories to share... no worries on the swears it's not like he was turning the air blue or anything... also he did the best job of explaining the need for/purpose of SWR tuning the antenna that I've ever heard. Very educational... ? what was he doing soldering on the tip of your antenna wire in the cab? did you cut it to size to eliminate the excess?

The harness you can do anytime it's easy and you will see a diff even on the stock headlamps... the factory wiring is really undersized for the job they just don't get the VA they need to perform to the rated power.
You can make your own harness but realistically speaking by the time you go through the hassle of tracking down all the parts, buying them and then putting them together you're just better off buying the ready made harness kit, it can be cheaper and if something breaks or fails you have a warranty to back you up... [how far the mfg. will back-up that warranty is another matter but at least its there lol]

The Hella conversion kit is the best one to get that is most easily available it seems, the Bosch kit I used is good too and still around I think but hard to find.