Gizler00's 85 4Runner Build Thread
#302
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 7
From: Pennsylvania
Yeah shes doing pretty good. Other than a few minor things here and there, I really cannot complain.
Definitely my rear main leaking. I still had a little drippy drip drip last night. Im going to pull the trans next week.
#303
Atleast youve done it enough you could pull it out in your sleep. Nice to be able to know every tool needed in order and have a plan. Still need to figure out how to get the seal out without removing the pan or rear main housing
#305
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 7
From: Pennsylvania
#307
I do the same thing trying to keep the salt off. That using a wash bay during the winter is a little cold. It does make a big difference though. Living in Chicago for a few years and I had very little salt damage. I did it weekly and it paid off. Still froze my butt off.
When you figure out the secret of being leak free, pass it on. I have yet to get one completely leak free. May not leak a lot but still shows a little oil somewhere. It does get frustrating trying to get one sealed up tight.
When you figure out the secret of being leak free, pass it on. I have yet to get one completely leak free. May not leak a lot but still shows a little oil somewhere. It does get frustrating trying to get one sealed up tight.
#308
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 7
From: Pennsylvania
I can't wait until it gets a little warmer so we can cruise the river.
#309
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 7
From: Pennsylvania
I do the same thing trying to keep the salt off. That using a wash bay during the winter is a little cold. It does make a big difference though. Living in Chicago for a few years and I had very little salt damage. I did it weekly and it paid off. Still froze my butt off.
When you figure out the secret of being leak free, pass it on. I have yet to get one completely leak free. May not leak a lot but still shows a little oil somewhere. It does get frustrating trying to get one sealed up tight.
When you figure out the secret of being leak free, pass it on. I have yet to get one completely leak free. May not leak a lot but still shows a little oil somewhere. It does get frustrating trying to get one sealed up tight.
You said it right terry. I do not rember ever having one that was totally leak free. I guess that's a trade off for them being such bada$$ off road and reliable machines. Haha.
I also used to live in Chicago. Didn't really care for it much, and was glad to get back to an area that had a slower paced lifestyle.
#311
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 7
From: Pennsylvania
It is totally crazy. We also have a windchill advisory as well. I had the windows down on my runner on Friday and now im going to have to put the cardboard back in front of the radiator tomorrow!!
#312
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 7
From: Pennsylvania
#314
I think the raptor liner (rhino, herculiner, etc) looks bada$$...however...how hard is that stuff to remove if you have to do bodywork??That was the only downfall i could think of.
Yea after i sunk the 88 that day it earned its nickname "buoy" It ruined the rest of the day trying to get it out, took that orange toy, and a dodge 3/4 ton hooked in line. The guys i was with said that was probalbly the deepest spot in that area, lucky me!
BUT IT STARTED BACK UP 2HRS LATER!! everyone there that witnessed it said it was toast...jackholes just dont know
Yea after i sunk the 88 that day it earned its nickname "buoy" It ruined the rest of the day trying to get it out, took that orange toy, and a dodge 3/4 ton hooked in line. The guys i was with said that was probalbly the deepest spot in that area, lucky me!
BUT IT STARTED BACK UP 2HRS LATER!! everyone there that witnessed it said it was toast...jackholes just dont know
Last edited by Yotanoob85; Jan 26, 2014 at 06:23 PM.
#315
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 7
From: Pennsylvania
I need me an AK!
#317
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 7
From: Pennsylvania
Ok guys, I need some help here. I have been trying to get the rear window switch working from the console since I have owned this thing with no luck.
I picked up the correct arm from Kornhuskerwizard over the weekend. So that end of its good.
I decided to pull off the cover for the rear wiper motor to look at the switch and it does not seem right. I am going to try and get a pic.
But I did not know if anyone would be able to get me a pic of the rear wiper arm sensor.
I cannot see how mine would work with the way it is setup. And I think that this might be my issue, since everything else has been checking out ok.
Thanks guys.
I picked up the correct arm from Kornhuskerwizard over the weekend. So that end of its good.
I decided to pull off the cover for the rear wiper motor to look at the switch and it does not seem right. I am going to try and get a pic.
But I did not know if anyone would be able to get me a pic of the rear wiper arm sensor.
I cannot see how mine would work with the way it is setup. And I think that this might be my issue, since everything else has been checking out ok.
Thanks guys.
#320
Here is a link to my fix and other info that may help >>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51723243 The post above it has some info as well. Is the switch clean? If so and you want to by pass all of the safety on it, I run a ground wire from the plug to a ground. Makes life so much easier. The post above the link I provided as other info as well.
I got my rear window working. Wahoo!!
Some quick and easy test are 1. Make sure your rear wiper is in the stowed position. 2.Back gate is shut good, may even want to lean against it and try your key. 3. The plug in the drivers side corner in the back is hooked up good, by your rear windshield washer bottle. 4. That the bolt/pin on drivers side,by the roll bar is all the way in. There is a safety lock located there.
I wanted to see if my Motor was good so I ran 2 connectors right to the motor plug. It is a PITA to get that plug seperated and ran each wire to a battery. Just reverse polarity to control the direction of the window.

I could tell the motor was good right away but it was really struggling to move the window. I thought it was off track, but the metal track with rollers were pretty rusty and I just greased them.
It still was struggling to move up and down, so I took some Silione Spray and got the window tracks. This made a big difference and was the biggest problem. Works great on your door windows too.

I then replaced the Window Relay Box, I got my Rear Wiper working and Defrost but no window control. Located behind the Drivers seat behind the vinyl panel. If your rear wiper and deforst work this is some indication the box is good, but a relay is in there that operates the window so you cant completely rule it out.

I then took the Switch apart. It comes apart easily if done right. First remove the gray plug. It is the light bulb. Then pull the cover away from 2 tabs on one side and then the 2 tabs on the other side.

I then washed the button with soap and water and air dried it with air hose and used electrical contact cleaner to get the corrosion, coffe, dirt and who knows what else out of there.

Here is another picture of how it should look before going back together. Make sure you dont lose the little white pin and the metal toggle piece. These are very brittle being 20 plus years old. On the rear wiper and safety lock, they are difficult to get seperated. I just take contact cleaner and hold the switch upside down and spray cleaner in there and blow it out with an air hose.

I put some links that I used to get to this point up in a previous post. The last link says you can use some relays from Radio Shack, but I havent tried it. I will later on with my old/bad relay.
Other things to look for is make sure your rear wiper is in the stow positon, the tail gate is completely closed.
On post #361 I have a ground wire that bypasses the Cover Top Switch and Door Lock Detector Switch. #365 has a better electrical diagram view of the ground wire I by passed theses two switches.
I still havent tried the key. I didnt use my old key lock when I switched tailgates as it looks more involved then I want to get into. I will have a locksmith to make me one.
This is a switch that does give problems. I have cleaned it and it seems to be working better. I will light the Rear Door Ajar light.

Located behind driviers seat.

Running a ground wire from this wire on the plug, the blue wire to the place on the pic below elminates a lot of problems.

Ground to center consloe mounting tab.

The ground wire bypasses the following safety switches. Cover Top and Door Lock Detections switch. Your window will roll up with top off. This is on Page 12-23 of the Haynes Manual where the key is to the botom of the page.
Haynes "L" for Blue, "R" for Red. Key is pointing to wire.

89-95 runner tailgate reassembly, but most applies to 1st gen Runner.
I got my rear window working. Wahoo!!
Some quick and easy test are 1. Make sure your rear wiper is in the stowed position. 2.Back gate is shut good, may even want to lean against it and try your key. 3. The plug in the drivers side corner in the back is hooked up good, by your rear windshield washer bottle. 4. That the bolt/pin on drivers side,by the roll bar is all the way in. There is a safety lock located there.
I wanted to see if my Motor was good so I ran 2 connectors right to the motor plug. It is a PITA to get that plug seperated and ran each wire to a battery. Just reverse polarity to control the direction of the window.

I could tell the motor was good right away but it was really struggling to move the window. I thought it was off track, but the metal track with rollers were pretty rusty and I just greased them.
It still was struggling to move up and down, so I took some Silione Spray and got the window tracks. This made a big difference and was the biggest problem. Works great on your door windows too.
I then replaced the Window Relay Box, I got my Rear Wiper working and Defrost but no window control. Located behind the Drivers seat behind the vinyl panel. If your rear wiper and deforst work this is some indication the box is good, but a relay is in there that operates the window so you cant completely rule it out.

I then took the Switch apart. It comes apart easily if done right. First remove the gray plug. It is the light bulb. Then pull the cover away from 2 tabs on one side and then the 2 tabs on the other side.

I then washed the button with soap and water and air dried it with air hose and used electrical contact cleaner to get the corrosion, coffe, dirt and who knows what else out of there.

Here is another picture of how it should look before going back together. Make sure you dont lose the little white pin and the metal toggle piece. These are very brittle being 20 plus years old. On the rear wiper and safety lock, they are difficult to get seperated. I just take contact cleaner and hold the switch upside down and spray cleaner in there and blow it out with an air hose.

I put some links that I used to get to this point up in a previous post. The last link says you can use some relays from Radio Shack, but I havent tried it. I will later on with my old/bad relay.
Other things to look for is make sure your rear wiper is in the stow positon, the tail gate is completely closed.
On post #361 I have a ground wire that bypasses the Cover Top Switch and Door Lock Detector Switch. #365 has a better electrical diagram view of the ground wire I by passed theses two switches.
I still havent tried the key. I didnt use my old key lock when I switched tailgates as it looks more involved then I want to get into. I will have a locksmith to make me one.
This is a switch that does give problems. I have cleaned it and it seems to be working better. I will light the Rear Door Ajar light.

Located behind driviers seat.

Running a ground wire from this wire on the plug, the blue wire to the place on the pic below elminates a lot of problems.

Ground to center consloe mounting tab.

The ground wire bypasses the following safety switches. Cover Top and Door Lock Detections switch. Your window will roll up with top off. This is on Page 12-23 of the Haynes Manual where the key is to the botom of the page.
Haynes "L" for Blue, "R" for Red. Key is pointing to wire.

89-95 runner tailgate reassembly, but most applies to 1st gen Runner.
Last edited by Terrys87; Jan 28, 2014 at 01:01 AM.








