The old lady is having some new issues with cold weather. Hit 15 degrees here, have a rebuilt 3 slow with 1k miles on it. Ran fine, little rich, but started and ran well.

Cold weather hit, went in, turned the key, got good lights on dash, then the obligatory "click". No turnover, click seems to emanate from the middle portion of the firewall. Had the battery checked, came in at 65% life, so bought a new Duralast 700cca. Installed the new battery, same result, lights up, then "click"

Have read some good write ups on potentially the cold start injector (haven't tested yet) and the cold start circuit.

However these threads indicated that the 4runner was turning over where mine is not.

Thanks for the input, appreciate it.

 

Yes, the Cold Start Injector has nothing to do with the Starter. Which is where your problem is. While I've never done it, many on this site have carefully documented replacing the solenoid contacts inside the starter. That's where I'd start.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

 

Agreed, starter contacts. Or get a remanned denso unit and call it good.

 

Thanks for the info starter appears to be the issue, with some loose connectors on the clip.

Bigger issue though w/ the cold and age of the wiring, the large gauge wire coming from the fuse box snapped, while working the battery terminals

 

That's not cold; that's corrosion. You can stick copper into liquid nitrogen and it will still bend pretty easily.

Examine the other nearby wires carefully. Now would be a good time to fix all the bad ones.

 

Here is a pic of the severed wire, thanks for the follow up as well

 

What engine? 22RE? V6?

Concur.

However, do not hastily do the starter. Verify really what's clicking. If starter solenoid clicks energetically but no crank, yes most likely the solenoid contact like Scope says^^


IF, solenoid sounds like it could use a testosterone shot, try this special service tool . IF if it consistently makes solenoid click energetically and turn the starter motor, you must have too much voltage drop/hence power loss upstream of solenoid coil. See Electrical Engineering Blunder on Cranking System on my sig/thread.

Yep definitely needs replacement. Depending on your truck year-model, that may not just be plain wire; it is a fusible link wire. See Philbert's thread on proper replacement.

 

First off thanks again to all that chipped in.

On the wire, trimmed it back added a 3/8" ring connector crimped, applied heat gun to activate solder and all is good.

If anyone has any thoughts on a more secure way to batten down the clip wire that attaches to the starter that would be great.

Now on to the drivers side exhaust manifold leak.

 

Good that you were able to re-connect without having to replace the wire.

You're talking about the solenoid coil control wire pictured below, correct?
If so, you can either:

1. Just have to pinch the female spade terminal inside the plastic housing so it clamps on to male spade on solenoid, OR
2. Replace with a new female spade connector, clean all contacts and coat with dielectric (silicone) grease to prevent oxidation.

 

That would be the one. Good thoughts on both ideas. More than likely going to wait it out until winter is over or until the wife will be okay with me hogging up the garage for a spell.