Sometimes I'll hit a bump and it will change for a short bit, they also seem to like curved roads and are smooth on them. Slower speeds they aren't as smooth, but that makes sense and doesn't bother me.
Are you still running them or have you gone to weights again?

Wheeling trip today, nothing even close to excessive, but a really terrific day. It was a beautiful warm day (I think it's November) had just finished airing up when the skies dumped a bunch of water on us. We missed all the stormage on the way back to St. Louis to boot. I behaved myself so no damage for me, the husband has a couple new gouges in the left rear door and a dented left rear wheel well/ trim spot. Not too bad.

No, I didn't hit the tree. You have to get really close there to make the turn without tipping into it.

 

Hab, how much weight did you have on your wheels before you switched to the dynamic pellets?

 

I had that written down somewhere, but don't know where it is. All of them had multiple weights, a couple were missing some, it was more weight than the Michelins had. I'll try to find that paper...or pics.

 

This repair is coming up in the spring, my a/c condenser's fins are degrading and literally falling apart. Toyota wants $258 for a new one, Rock Auto carries a Denso for $48
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=870811&cc=1272552&jsn=375
What's the difference? Materials? Longevity? Please chime in if you have experience yay or nay.

Also guess I'll needCondenser Assembly Collar Part Number: 88895-89102
Condenser Assembly Lower InsulatorPart Number: 88467-35020


Still haven't come across that weight paper fierohink...

 

LOL... I see you were on the dark side for a while. I always get a kick out of your humor. I always liked winter camping except for having to crawl out of the sleeping bag in the morning. I always thought if I stayed inside it would warm up eventually if I just waited long enough. I always like to put plenty of cushion between me and the ground just to keep the cold out. Just getting caught up on your thread. You are not very far away from the big 300k miles.

 

My bro-in-law was an A/C guy; he said if you open the system, you need to replace the receiver/dryer.

 

Need to pee always wins on those cold sleeping bag mornings! The biggest bummer is if you forget to loosen the laces and open the boots wide in the evening...in the morning when they are too frozen to slip on and you've got to pee...augh!
My sleeping pad has a 2.0 r-value but I put my coat and spare clothes between it and the sleeping bag and that raises the insulation factor quite a bit. The -15 bag doesn't hurt, either.

Hi coopster! Your bro-in-law is 100% correct, I should have mentioned that one too. This will be the second one since I had to crack the system to replace the evap valve awhile ago. I also either have to look into a recovery system or do what I did last time and pay to get the R134a sucked out.



Was looking at the truck today for no reason and realized I forgot the gas tank strap is broken...rusted through. Tank is pretty much being held in by the skid. Put that on my list too. At least that one *should* be easy once I get hold of the part.

 

If the tank comes out, we should figure out a way to put it back in an inch higher - take advantage of the room created by the body lift.

 

good ideas like that probably helps Habanero keep you around

 

That, and he sorta does the dishes plus is very good at shoulder rubs.

 

Hey Ms Hab!
Did you all ever do a post-mortem on the rack fail?

 

I looked over what-all wasn't broken from hitting my hood and the ground...still not sure. I hit pretty good coming off the drop, dunno if the roof flexed and allowed enough of the feet to pop out and the rest slid our or what.
Guess I'll just have to try to do it again!

I rebuilt the light bar to have 4 bolts holding it in over a greater surface area, instead of 2 bolts in a concentrated spot. Next I made sure the sliding metal nuts that fit into the rails face with the outer corners pointing upwards so they dig into the rail when the bolts are tightened. I've also been checking to make sure they stay tight.
After studying the inner support I decided not to try to anchor the rack to it, would rather take my chances and be aware of how tight the bolts are than further involve the flimsy roof and only a little less flimsy support.

 

Thanks for the reply.
I'm about to move the rack off the 94 onto the 95. I had asked Mr. dropzone once about this. Think what I'll try is a larger flat fender washer (reduced thickness) that should spread the force over a larger area. (That would be tearing force or I suppose pulling force upward). Hoping I can make it work. Intend to try to put the nutzert / threaded rivet /whatever in with the washer and hopefully when it crunches up it will work to compress against washer face.

recent issue of 4wd toy owner had some interesting pics of someone with an exo-cage, sort of. Looked sort of like a hybrid.

OTOH, maybe I should focus on reinstalling interior, and getting motor and tranny back in.

 

Sometimes a person has gotta step back and do something else for a little and who says rolling under its own power is what it's supposed to do, anyway?

IIRC dropzone said something about the 2nd gen not having an internal rail support? I know the 3rd gen does:




Remember when ChefYota4x4 used nutserts on his 1st gen's hatch cover for a roof rack? Trying to remember the solution he came up with to broaden the stress areas...
actually, I found in his thread where he talks about it, and same for RBx, but doesn't seem relevant to what you want. The threads:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199.../index180.html
and
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51859595

 

to be honest i am not sure, i haven't gone to the extent as you did to pull the head liner completely out..not brave enough!

 

Ah, thanks for chiming in, I couldn't remember for sure. That does seem like an ideal thing to give a whack at in a junkyard if one really wanted to know (and could find one).

 

Yeah, 2nd's do. I'll stop hijackin' and start a thread. I'll try to post up a pic of the cross rails on the 2nds.
(Which may be a bit delayed as I "get" to go back to work manana. Hurray for 14 days on.) Hello How-Tos.

That far back one, BTW, actually bolts on. There is a system of 'supports' of some sort that actually hold the sheet metal up off the cross pieces. And I couldn't make my little cheater for the 6mm nutserts work. so hafta try to find an anvil / jabadabber to pull it up.
And I was so happy just yesterday cuz I got the doors insulated.

 

It's cool coopster, anything that teaches me something new is welcome.
And thanks for the info.

Have a good couple weeks of work. Insulated doors- going for something nice and quiet I assume?

 

96 4Runner 297,233 miles

Pulled the PCV valve to check as maintenance. The jiggle wasn't very jiggly so I freed it up with some wd40 and re-installed once it was back to regular amounts of jiggles.

Found the very slight coolant leak- the 8 month old 4 Seasons heater control valve. Well, I did say I was unimpressed with the quality. It's leaking at the screw that holds the actuator to the valve body, not a lot, drip. drip. drip. Stinky because it was hitting the exhaust y pipe.

I replaced the valve with one from the junkyard that the hubby got as part of the fresh non-rusty rear heater lines to replace the rusted ones in the 99 which, by the way, was a really awesome find for the junkyard.

 

96 4Runner 297,259 miles

Oil change. Nothing exciting. Some days are just like that.