replied on my thread, didn't want to clutter your thread up with more of the same, but feel free to have at it dude.

 

OK, ......

I measured my Con-Ferr cage, side to side, .............42"
..." ..... " .... " ......S10 Rack , side to side, ...........41.5"

The mounting oval slots in the support beams on the cage start at 31.5".... Then out from there. That will probably be the route to go, once I figure something out. I can't use the Con-Ferr-rain gutter mounting brackets, .....they're flat on the bottom and taper-rounded, downward/toward the outside.

I will get some pictures and do a MUCH MORE thorough write up, of course..... but my plans, in poor wording, are;

1. Mount the S10(rounded type 90's Blazer 4 door) roof rack to the 4Runner shell by cutting the side-to-side supports/portion of the rack down a few inches, to bring the rear/front mounting feet inward, toward the center/away from the rear wrap shell windows> KUDOS; RBX ^^^ on that and most of the rest of the info!

2. Mount the Con-Ferr Rack, somehow, to the SIDE rails, removing the side-to-side rails from the picture and using the Con-ferr rack as the structural support in their place.... BY, using the underside mounting ovals and some type of LOCKING 'Wrap Around' Yakima or other mounting belts(??)

3. Mount 2-4 Off road lights on the basket(no more than 6, total, 4 in front and 2 in back) as the law in CA is no more than 8, total, including the headlights....(???) lol.

4. Mounting some lockable mounting hardware for the HiLift and Shovel, etc.

5. Creating a new 'bed' for the Con-Ferr rack, something lighter, maybe aluminum, as I don't want to use Wood due to the limited amount of weight this S10 rack can support.

So far, whatcha think? hahahaha.

 

PS> RB, anyone, .....

Whatcha think about if I use 'bolt sleeves', shallow ones, to remove some of the risk of cracking the shell(and increasing the amount of torque I can apply)???????????????

Thanks

 

Like these, but obviously metal and not so deep....

Bolt Sleeves

Maybe even the type that are tapered on both sides, but that you fasten together by sliding one side through and then the other onto it from the bottom/top????

 

I used the sleeves that go between the afm gasket. They were perfect.

 

That's a great idea......... Hmmm, I know I USED to have a few extras for my xtra AFM I have...... But 4 maybe, definitely not 8. Maybe I can grab something from the yard next time. I mean, that would take so much worry out of cracking the shell, right?

Those were thick enough? IIRC, they're around 1/16" thick, no?

 

they are closer to 1/8", You could put them in later if you wanted, just be careful not to crank on the bolts. And you may disturb the RTV if you do so.

Honestly the plastic on the rack will probably crack before the fiberglass. the sleeves are just a precaution to keep one from over tightening.

 

hey mark had computer troubles, lovely, on the schools computer so i cant send a paypal to a few people, bought a bunch of stuff but cant pay for it therefor can get it, anyways, i dont think it had a motor at all tbh, it was just the main mast part, the other one he got in had a motor and everything but i didnt take pics since it was pouring rain, and when i went back the next day the fender and everything was gone, it might be in the truck id have to see, im keeping an eye out for yeah down here! i shoot you a text if i find anything worth talking about.

 

update?????????

 

Dotos...

 

Hey guys, .......... I WISH!!!!! lol.

Sorry man, I've just been so overwhelmed with, well, everything. I have time to surf on here and keep up with others, but I just simply haven't had time to get out there and get stuff done.

I'm still trying to figure out how I want to do my S10 rack and combine it with the Con-Ferr cage...... I just don't want to mount the cage on TOP of the arches.... Not that it's not very doable, ... it's just that I'd like the rack to sit a little lower, almost level with the side rails, so I need to figure that out, SOMEHOW............??????????????????????????????? ???????????????????? hehehe. Hint, hint! lol.

 

Chef,
Unless that con-ferr's width is less then the rack width it isn't going to sit down inside the rack. So scratch that from your list.
Now the basket is going to sit on top of the S10 rack. Assemble the rack on the floor and lay your basket on top....
Can you use small u-bolts to attach it securely to the rack?
Could you use rivnuts or nutserts drilled into the S10 rack?
Could you use small pieces of angle iron like clamps to secure it?

You need to stop thinking about it and start doing it....it's just a rack. Sometimes i end up doing the same thing, and sometimes i have to backtrack a bit to get it right, but once i start i get a better idea about how it's going to turn out. But most of the time i need a voice to tell me to just get to it.

Not trying to give you hell, but i am trying to get you to stop over thinking it and get to doing it....so ya, maybe given you a little hell.

anyhow, pm me if you want to chat a bit i'll send my digits. take a few pics of the basket sitting on the rack on the floor so we can see where these connection points need to be.

I think i am going to install some nutserts in my rack for future mounting points.

Now stop talkin/typin and start doin holmes!

 

Hahahaa..... Thanks, RB!

Yeah, honestly, I just haven't been able to leave my step dad alone for any period of time, while here... And every other time of day, i'm trying to catch up/keep up with work. The laptop can go anywhere, so I guess I just think out loud about it/contemplate. I will 'go getter' it soon, honest! lol.

Sure nuff, I will run out there asap and shoot up some GOOD pics of all things side by side, etc. I still have to cut the S10 rack to fit, ...and then I guess I could give a better idea of how the cage will sit on top. (basket).

In the support rails of the basket, there are oval nutserts all the way accross(well, most of the way), and there ARE ones right above where that would sit on the side rails. And when not using the cage, i could just remove it and re'insert the cut-to-size cross bars that came stock with the S10.

Sorry man, I honestly don't mean to overthink it, hahaha... but yeah, it happens.

Thanks for the nudge, homie!

 

Sorry about your family situation, I know you have more time these days to type then wrench.

 

No worries, bud!

Ok, so I AT LEAST spent a bit of time out there, today. Here's the deal.............;

The Con-Ferr Basket is VERY heavy, compared to many other baskets. It's solid, VERY well built, but heavy, nonetheless. And, that's even without the heavy arse piece of wood platform for the base(i'm trying to think of something there, too).

I'm not sure the S10 rack will work for me, for 2 reasons;

1. It's capacity is 200#, and my Con-ferr with the wood is nearly 70#???( Honestly, guys, it's 60"x42" and it's SOLID, .... The cage alone I would say is 45#...then the 1/2" plywood that fits that hole is around 20# at least. That brings my capacity down to 130#.... Which isn't really a HUGE issue... But it could be, ya know?

2. The second issue with the S10 rack is that it's not long enough, even WITHOUT cutting, for the mounting spots in the Con-Ferr to go through the insert guides on the S10 rack.(What I mean is, the Con-Ferr has 4 lateral supports.... The front most one/or rear, depending on where i want it to sit/ are too long from the front lateral support to the rear one). I'll explain more, later.

Here is a few pics, which I'll explain as I go;

This is how the lateral supports on the Con-Ferr give me a LOT of wiggle room as to 'how to mount it'........


Here is how it looks/another angle, standard(the mounting brackets), when the gutters are used form mounting(which I DO NOT want to even try again, ..it's too 'IFFY', ya know?)


Then I started playing around and realized I can do one of two things.....

1. I can use the S10 rack, MAYBE, to mount the primary brackets(the portion that bolts right into the lateral support rails of the basket) and bolt 2 bolts on each L-bracket into the slide portion of the S10 rack(the guides that have bolt inserts in them)


2. I can turn the second portion of those brackets upside down and mount the rack directly to the roof, using plenty of support, of course..... This would mean no need for the S10 rack,.... but then the only way I could actually use the roof is by using the Basket lol.......




Let me know what you think so far, guys, ok? I don't want to put all that weight up there in just the Con-Ferr portion alone and then not be able to put any REAL weight up there, like a 32" Tire and rim, Hi-Lift, Shovel, Ax, and a bit more that I'd like to get out of the cargo area could be light'ER, ...but still, ya know? lol. SORRY if this isn't making much sense... I'm trying, just a bit overwhelmed with life at the moment...so the brain is PFRRRRRRRRT'n on me! lol. I think you'll mostly get the point though

 

maybe you can just get two long aluminum bars and bolt it to the roof. than bolt the basket to the aluminum bar. the weight will be more spread out and can put a pretty large amount of weight on top
alot like this
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nstall-197292/

 

Mark,
Ditch the clamps that bolt to the gutters. I would use the same holes the gutter clamps bolt to that are oval and nut and bolt( or nursert) the basket to the rack. Make sense? It will allow the basket to sit lower on the vehicle, a d those cross supports are the only bracing the basket needs. Secondly, loose the ply wood. It's solid and heavey, not to mention will gain weight in the wet and snow. Find some thick aluminum or plastic and use strips for the floor like the Sunco racks do, that will also reduce a bunch of weight.
Well, that's what I'd do.

 

^^^ I think that rack system looks slick. However, I'm not sure I would use a rivnut in a fiberglass top. Over time the hard metal of the rivnut will wear the snug fiberglass hole out. Add weight to the rack(tire, hi-lift...) then go trail riding or just driving vibration will accelerate the wear on the mount points. Over time I am guessing some rivnuts could work loose, but maybe I am wrong, I've never done an install like that. I'm just saying that would be my fear. Now if the rivnut went thru metal and sandwiched the fiberglass I think that would be better.

 

Thanks, Toyo, RBX!

Ok, so what you're saying is, ........ use these holes, RB? >>>>>>>



You're saying to mount the cage through those holes(however I can get those L-brackets to meet up just right with the S10 rack), and put the bolts through right into the Nutserts(just so I get this straight, ....the 'nutserts' are the square nuts that slide back and forth inside the rails of the S10 rack, right???? lol).

I'm wondering, if that ^^^^ IS, in fact, what you mean.... I would have to lose the Cross bar supports that the S10 rack has, right? Secondly, ... the problem I was mentioning in my post above this, ....."The mounting L-brackets distance from front one to rear one is further than the furthest available nutsert channel on the S10 rack"..... ........... So how could I mount all 4 to the S10 rack? If I can find a rack that's longer, front to rear, then I would imagine that would work(again, if what I'm GUESSING you meant is actually what you meant, lol).

 

Hey chef just checkn in hope you get that rack on there it looks sweeet. And i think he meant to take all the L brackets off and use the holes they mount to, to mount it to the s10 rack so that it ain't sitting up higher than it needs to. You will get it figured out