rworegon

Looks good!


Maybe a grommet or a split piece of tubing jammed into the hole to protect the wire?

habanero

That's an excellent idea, I've only got it protected with electrical tape right now...prolly a piece of split aquarium tubing will do the trick for the small hole and a regular grommet for the bigger hole. Thanks!

jason in tn

Ive been absent so long I had to go back a couple pages to catch up. awesome present with the OBA, Ive been wanting to do something like like that for awhile now, havent decided to go that route or continue with CO2 set up I started. I also ordered the freebie emblems, it had been so long I forgot WHAT I ordered lol. leave it up to you to find yet another junk yard mod I now want to do on mine, great work on the light. I hope evrything else is going well for you, Im really trying to do a better job of keeping up with thingd around here.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Been catching up on your thead. I have been using it for information when working on mine. I like how you have your first page set up for finding information. So much nicer just looking at a screen over having to read a manual and get an idea of what you are in for. The 3rd Gens definitely come in early model and late model changes.

habanero

Jason, I know what you mean about keeping up and some people have all these build threads... ...it's hopeless. Glad you made it over. I like the light. It's kind of old school with people putting up things like strings of leds, but it was super cheap and why not? C02 set-up, like a tank? Decisions decisions. I was originally considering a Puma compressor and tank because of favorable reviews and price together but the Santa Fairy had other ideas. Ideas I am very happy with. Now I've just got to get it all in there and working!


Terry, glad the table of contents is working for you. I use that or the search thread feature more than I thought I would, too. Glad you're able to get something out of this thread! Lots of differences between the early, mid and late 3rd gens for sure, like that box you were dealing with the other day. Sorry I wasn't any help there, but thanks to you now I know how to deal with that connector.

PS. Neither one of you better stop with the builds, I love to check in and see what you've got going on!

rworegon

And, some people are slackers like me and have no build threads. hehe

BTW...I'm stuck at one ski day so far. We need mountain snows badly.

jason in tn

PS. Neither one of you better stop with the builds, I love to check in and see what you've got going on!

I need to do a much better job of updateing mine but they are not going anywhere.

habanero

Slackers...you're an excellent contributor in the build threads and I'm positive that counts lots.
Sorry to hear about the snows, both in terms of recreation and water levels.

You're too busy pretending you have a boat! That were some crazy video you posted!! That had to have been hard to drive into.

rworegon

Been meaning to ask.....how did/is the science fair project going this year for the boy-o?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I wish I would of taken some pictures of steps to get it swapped out. I looked on several sites on informaton getting the assembly switched. I see 1000s of post on the P044? codes but that was about it. I could not get some good lighting under there for pictures. They could of given some more slack in the hoses to get the assembly out as they connect just above a cross memeber. It could of been placed a little better.

rworegon...I have been a slacker on mine too as I have had it for 12 years, but I baby it and really just some basic maintainance on it and no problems. Been wanting to do more basic maintainance to it and it is on the list when I get my truck done.

rworegon

My plate "YOTATECH" arrived today.

habanero

Cool rw! Science Fair project is underway and almost completed. Let's just say flame resistant pajamas are kinda scary.

96 4Runner 271,xxx-ish

Not so long ago I started having some minor steering issues, felt a little strange when making right turns as it neared the end of steering wheel travel. Several days later it started minor making noise when turning. Got under it yesterday and had the kid wiggle the steering wheel for me-rack all over the place, especially on the left end. Noise was the rack tapping the skid plate.
Dropped skids, checked my bolts. Tight. Dang! It's bushings. Really. I'd given some thought to replacing them with a kit from Wheeler's before installing the rack but figured the oe rack bushings lasted 200,000 or so and this was an oe rack....
dagnabit. Hubby theoried bigger tire/lift combo and that sounds sensible but, dang it.
Anyway, if you all have to replace a rack, this is the second (will I never learn???) time I've had to replace rack bushings not long after replacing the rack. Pfft!

That, and get an oe rack, or I've heard Safari is good (no experience), or at the very least one for an '02 so you get the solid guide.

So, ordered a steering rack bushing kit from Wheeler's last night. Also ordered a sway bar bushing kit for the 99, those are kinda toast too.

Speaking of the 99, hubby said there were steering issues, sounds, I think he said. We looked and it was obvious the left inner tie rod was moving up and down A LOT. Hmph. Then we noticed the steering rack guide nut is an 'outie'. Inspiration! That means it has a roller style guide and those let slop like that happen and I just happened to have kept the old rack out of my truck and it has a solid style guide. Swapped them out and TA DA! No more moving inner tie rod!

Back to the 96. Haven't made much progress on the air compressor, just getting parts and thoughts together for it. Also poked at a bubbly spot at the rear of the right side pinch weld, it's a half-dollar size hole that was rotting from the inside, held together by the paint. Cleaned it and washed as much loose stuff as possible out, but I'm going to have to repair when it gets warm enough.

Hope you are all well and good. It's a rainy Sunday here. At least it was really nice for yesterday's trail building. Frozen, but not cold and sunny.

jason in tn

Sorry to hear about the bushing issues, but it's good for me as a replacement rack is in order for mine, any other advice?

rworegon

Aarrgghhhh on the bushings. 49 and wet, heavy fog here now.

Results of real world Jammie testing could be quite interesting.

habanero

Jason- that's a bummer....I'm assuming you already know about the steering rack guide issues and it's not a problem like that...

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200.../index104.html post 2076

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200.../index105.html post 2100-2102

Is what I did. I went oe this time but it's too soon to tell how it'll work out. Other than the bushings, ack! All of the oe racks now have the solid guide but I still ordered for the '02 juuuust in case.
The A1 Cardone rack was half the price but only went 40,000 miles and I'd had to replace the rack guide on it. A1 Cardone says they don't replace those, just inspect them.
I've heard Safari racks are good, but don't know a darned thing about them.
Mine was $545.75 shipped.

If your sway bar bushings (do you still use the sway bar?) or end links need bushings or what-not you'll be pulling it off- good time for that stuff. Skids off, diff drop too.
Sway bar bushing size (26mm) and prothane part number: post 2007 https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...l#post52208855

Wheeler's link: https://wheelersoffroad.com/product/...96-02-4runner/

Patience! Besides getting the lines off (they're at two different angles- use the new rack to see what those angles are) getting the steering wheel straight is a lot of fun. I made sure my tie-rod ends were equidistant, with the same numbers of threads showing on either side. On my rack there was a mark to indicate the rack itself being centered. Make sure your steering wheel can't turn so the clockspring doesn't get messed up.
The nut for the center mount is tack welded on, only the bolt unscrews.

After that all I can think of is have a great time or maybe RUN! RUN AWAY!!! (really, it could be a worse job)

RW- I did not know flame resistant pjs melt like thin plastic...makes me wonder about burns if the fire is not very momentary.

jason in tn

Hab I appreciate all the advice. One thing I wanted your opinion on because the advice I got from a toyota mechanic shocked me. He recommended I just pick up a rebuilt rack from a big brand parts place, his logic was I run big heavy tires and I'm hard on the truck ( just by wheeling it) and that I can only expect a rack to last a year or so, get a life time warranty and plan on using it. What do you think?

habanero

The mechanic has an interesting take and good point.

The A1 Cardone did last 40,000 but it did not have a lifetime warranty. I could have put in two for what I paid for the Toyota rack but I wish I would have started out with the yota rack anyway. Will it last more than 80,000 (and I've only got 33's and don't get to wheel as much as you)? I don't know. I do know from a back n forth from Cardone that they don't replace much, an inspection, some seals. The cardone's cheap boot got crunched, I had to replace the steering rack guide, it started puking oil out of the top, the shaft the rag joint connects to got play in it. At least I'm starting out fresh here with oe.

That all said, I don't see what would be wrong with going with a cheaper rack, especially if it had a lifetime guarantee (that means you can't tamper with it in any way...), except I'd personally rather NOT replace the rack every few years (still my daily driver). It's not a horrible job, just one that requires time and patience. I may get to do this all again anyway, but if that happens I might try the Safari next depending on price or just go as long a guarantee as I can find and that comes with inner tie rod ends because those things are expensive.
Either way, I've learned my lesson and will put poly bushings on from the get-go.

That said, who knows how long the oe rack will last with, like you point out, bigger tires and off roads? Can't answer that yet. Can say the rack bushings won't last any longer than Cardone's did!

Supposedly Safari Racks are built a little tougher, but I've no experience with them:
http://www.safari-ltd.com/parts.html
Wish they had an online catalog. 2 year warranty. No idea on price. I've heard something about brass where other companies use plastic, but again, I've got nothing solid on them. I do find the hearsay intriguing enough that I will at least check them out if it turns out I ever need another rack.

If you can get a lifetime alignment without too many restrictions, do it! That's been a massive buck saver for me and yes, I was upfront about wheeling and being a do-it-myselfer.

Sorry I'm not being very clear, without knowing what the future holds for the new oe rack I don't know how to answer. I feel I'm rambling.

1) The yota mechanic has a good point though if he were not a mechanic would he still say that?
2) I'd rather not replace the rack more times than necessary.
3) Find out what a company does to 'rebuild' a rack
4) Get a lifetime alignment
5) Make sure your new rack comes with inner tie rod ends
6) Get a set of Wheeler's steering rack bushings.....BUT....that may void the warranty on a rack so you may want to check that out first...
7) Get a rack with a solid guide

You know how aggravated I was with the lifetime warranty cvs- and those weren't as much time and work to replace as the rack is. Boy am I ever glad those things are not on my truck any more!!!

It would be interesting to hear others chime in on this...especially if they've been running 35s for awhile and have had more time to experience what happens to aftermarket and oe replacement racks- what's the failure rate under that kind of duress?

habanero

96 4Runner

Hahahaha sadness, the power steering pump seems to be toast. At least that's what the fluid smells like.

I'm going to have to keep a running tab on what-all needs doing if this keeps up, I feel like I'm getting behind. Hope all is well with everyone!

habanero

96 Toyota 4Runner 270,784 miles

Steering rack bushings. Got them today. Temps in the 40s, 20mph winds. Gonna be colder all next week. Sorry about no pictures.
There may be a better way, but this is what I did:

This job took a couple of hours.
Straighten the steering wheel so the tires are straight.

I have a diff drop, it has to come out to get the left (driver's) side bolt out.

Undo the nut on the left, the bolt in the middle and the nut and bolt on the right holding the rack in. Slide the bolts out and the 'D' shaped piece off. Leave the old bushing where the 'D' was, to protect the rack from the bolt that sticks out.

Lift the front end up so the tires are off the ground. I left the tires, tie-rods and sway bar on. Pushing the aft side of the tire in on both sides moves the rack away from the cross member, giving you room to work.

I started with the left side. Cut off the ring of rubber on the rearward side where it overlaps the rack. I used a utility knife. Watch your everything, no cutting anything but the rubber!

I stuck a bolt with washer in the old bushing and an impact socket on top of that, then used a big friendly hammer to knock the bushing out of the rack. I used a block of wood to clearance the other side so the old bushing could come out between the rack and cross member.
I used lube on all the new bushings. The poly bushing is in halves. Push the rear half in, then move the metal sleeve in the front half so it will be barely in the bushing. Push the front half into the rack, then gently tap the bushing in so it's not going to fall out. We'll get around to finishing that up later.

For the middle bushing again cut the lip off the side you'll be pushing from. This one is shorter and came out a lot easier, using the bolt/socket method again. Insert the new bushing halves in the same way you did the first one.
This bushing set comes with 3 sleeves, simply run your mounting bolt through the sleeves until you find the one that fits best. This time I used a spare bolt with two washers and a nut, tightening them to drive the sleeve into the bushings. It has to be flush so it fits back into the holder.

The last bushing is easy. It's a split 'D'. Put it on. Be careful not to let the threads on the mounting bolt mar it.

To get the rack back in place push the aft sides of the tires outward until you can run the long bolt on the left through the rack and cross member. I used a washer between the bolt head and bushing, and one between the rack and cross member.
Bolt the 'D' retainer on loosely.
Tightening these three fasteners should bring the center mount into place and push the left side sleeve into place. Make sure it doesn't push the back bushing half out while you're tightening.

You may have to carefully pry the rack to fit the center into its spot.
Tighten everything down, tires should be straight once again and you can put them on the ground.
Put the diff drop back in, if you have one.

Get someone to wiggle your steering wheel for the satisfaction of seeing slight movement rather than the crazy rubber-bandy thing that was going on with the oe bushings.

Doing this *may* void any warranty your rack has. That's on you to figure out.

Go inside! It's cold!!

rworegon

Hi Hab! Impressive you got that job done with the temp and windchill in the 30's or lower. Hope a cup of hot cocoa with a little additive was awaiting once you got inside.