Alcan and deaver bolth make custom packs,......either one ring a bell? Also, there's a very respected custom keaf place in Long Beach,..... think with "spring" in the name? No time now but I'll look into it . BUT, since ur gonna fork over cabbage, might wanna do a 63 or f150 or otgerwise swap now, to get the superflex out of it that u wont get from stock eye to eye distance springs? Then u just have to get a new hanger kit and move the hangers forward and back. U can even leave ur stock ones tgere in some cases in case u wanna go back to mod'd stock.

Or, u could RUF it and slap an old longer leaf or two in from ur old pack and just get longer/wider mouth straps?

 

Tons do,...... and tons of arguing over which is best and most reasonable! Lol

Ps> as long as the leafs u add in to beef up wut u have lie between but not under the straps,.....u could even do it w/out replacing the straps at all. ??? Jonnyboy and a couple other ls I know can help for sure. Anthony1 as well. Pismojoe too likely.

 

Andddddd, u might even do a no cut zuk for now......40 $ from the yards for some yukon xl springs or something?

Hey, cud get u on the road for now!

 

William, i am not familiar with any in my area. Never needed them till now haha

MARK THAT'S IT! Alcan that was the one i remembered. Definitely tell my dad about this place for his springs since he needs to be able to hold a lot of weight. As for me you do have a point. I did wanna do a 63" chevy spring swap in the future. So why not now? right? my only question is do you think that will withstand a lot of weight? aren't those sick off road ones off the 1 tons?

For future reference.
http://www.alcanspring.com/index.htm

 

Capacity and flex are not partners.... u need to fall somewhere in the middle. They can do that for ya. Or, u cud do the 63's to get the length and flex but RUF (ADD TO IT using soft or progressive springs from other packs).

I personally want my dd/capable girl to do both, and reallllly dont wanna wind up with a rig that cant handle all the load I wanna carry on longer trips. Remember, if u do a super flexy and tall lift spring, like Chris,.....wut happens? He cant carry much weight and he's bottoming out again on those shocks, ya know? For me, look how I flexed with a large capacity set up and was able to get to stuff/up over stuff with that extra weight back there, right? Plus, without all the weight, did pretty good as well, ya know? "In the middle somewhere".

 

I went with hrew sliders with kick out. I have used them a lot more than I thought and they are holding up. Tons of scratches but no dents or holes. It's plenty strong besides I don't think you will be intentionally putting your sliders on rocks unless you have too.

Surprised you didn't get triple drill diff flanges when you had them rebuilt. Anyways the angle is ok and you really can't do too much about it. Excessive caster angle shims will cause your high steer to hit the leaf springs. If it becomes an issue you would have to cut the knuckle balls off and rotate them but I think you will be fine. I see a lot of SAS look like that. Oh I forgot the 3rd option. High piñon 3rd member will help alot.

If your ok with the sag in the rear you need to relocate your rear shocks anyways because where it sits is how much the rear will compress even of you had 5 inch spring. That is as far as the rear will stuff

 

I hear ya on that. I just read a few threads. and some people who did the 63 chevy springs had to use blocks to reach 5" of lift. Im wondering if i should just go for some new custom leaf springs that will give me that amount of lift, and still hold more weight. i definitely gotta look into this one. and gotta fix it soon. Wondering how it would turn out if i had just bought 5" lift springs off all pro or something. gonna need to compare prices too.

 

Toyo I have 2 extra leaf spring mounts that weld onto the frame of the truck. are you saying that all i need is to move those closer to the rear? but that wont get rid of my sag huh?

 

You need to remove your 12 inch rear shocks. Go flex out the rear and measure the distance so you know where to mount the shocks so they can travel the same amount as the leaf springs. Post more shots of the rear set up. If you have 63s in rear. You will need some blocks or an add a leaf kit

 

Rich,....

Did u not do a flip kit in the rear? Thought u did. Anyway, most of the good flip kits come with hardware to remount new shock hoops, both on one side of the axle, and bringing the lower shock mount at least level with the axle tube bottom . This increases the axles ability to stuff, or in other words increases the amount the shock rod is extended when it sits parked. This is how guys get there wheel 3 inches up into the wheel well. The shock can only travel a total of 12 inches. So, if you mount new shock lower amounts lower during the flip kit, ,your shock will automatically be extended another what, 4 inches or so?

As far as 63's, think of it this way.... our Springs stock were 48 inches, and from the center pin they are I believe 22 inches forward offspring from the center pin and 26 inches of spring behind the center pin. The 63's which are actually I believe 62 inches, Toyo can correct me if I'm wrong, the center pin is in a much different location, where as far as everything I read you are then required to move the rear hanger 12 inches back and the front hanger 3 inches forward. This bring the front hanger lower to the ground causing more lift, because that portion of the frame is angling down words towards the ground as you move the hanger forward, it thus brings the hanger closer to the ground.

I did a lot of this in my thread, but I have some great links for you from a site that pretty much puts all the professional information out... General spring I believe is the name. Let me go get it for you, as it will help explain what I mean by the center pin and where certain Springs have to move in order to ride in their intended center points... Kinda get what I'm saying?

 

i see what you're talking about. now that i think about it my shocks are mounted pretty vertically Still at an angle but yea they do need to be at more of an angle. I have also seen a few people mount their shocks in an / \ type of angle mounted from the middle of the truck to the shock brackets.

the only thing i don't understand i'd that my shocks are pretty much mounted the same way how my neighbors truck. i just think the only difference is that he actually has a bigger lift. i need to ask him about to his shocks. Need to see if he has smaller ones or bigger ones then i do.

I like your idea Toyo definitely gonna take that one into consideration. like u said. even if i do get a higher lift the shock wont be too much higher then what it sits at now. thanks you!

Edit: Mark, You are right about moving the hanger with the chevy 63's ive also read that before. and yes i did use a flip kit for the rear.

 

This shows the A/B points and Then D / thickness......
























This shows what a dude displayed to explain how u move the front hanger 11" forward on the chevy 63 swap... I think 5" back?....



Now side by side.....



Here he shows his dual shackle set up (which many say are dangerous on this swap and not for the occasional wheeling person? But u can do more searching on that....




Here is his result....

 

Well, even with new leaf packs.... the compression of the shock to it's limit u have there will still happen when u get to 4" from the fenderwell if ur lower shock mounts are still in the same location....

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...2560a7ecc09569

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...uct.php?id=129

"The rear u bolt flip plate does not include shock tabs, they are available for $12 set."

 

damn. that is pretty sick. lol

 

Mark check it out. This is where my shock sits at mounted on the axle.



Look at where the shocks are mounted on this white truck. they are much lower then mine. i think i messed up. maybe we should have welded them a bit lower huh



this is the size that Allpro recommended for me to buy. say 10" in the front and 12 in the rear. Im wondering how exactly this is supposed to be with these shocks. Maybe i need all 4 shocks or something and still adjust the rear shocks. idk...

 

Also note that his fender is dramatically cut out higher? So his droop is not as great as it looks due to the cut out.... BUT, it probably can droop more! Lol. .. and the stuff means he is way beyond the stock lip cuz he cut it, KWIMean?

 

Yeah, and that's all I was trying to say (Toyo too I think.).... Sorry, I got excited, hehe, but s' all good, it's all good info....

And it's a cheap fix. ... but when u flip the plate u flip the tab, ya know? They're cheap, and maybe u can save these? If u wanna use a grinder/cut disc to shave the welds and then reweld u can maybe? Or 12$ per side from sky? Yeah, that is not gonna work.

Also, some guys just weld the tabs both on the same side, unlike stock

 

Nooo not the blue truck. the white truck on the left.

 

Also, ur front leafs will settle a bit over time, but not ad m I ch as they always are meant to support a motor/trans/tcase more than the rear, ya know? But they will a lil. I w o uld stick woth a true 4" rear leaf pack custom or already made for "medium duty", this way u can carry mire wright like u KNOW u will be,... and also have moderate/good flex, especiallt with ur CBO AND CANS AND TIRE? If Chris did that he wo I ld likely have to do a RUF

 

No, I know what you mean about mounting at angles, both on one side. ... are u gonna get new upper shockounts and do that mod as well? I was just talking avout if u lower em on the axle to level with the bottom of the tube......