Thanks Mark. Ill have to do that sometime soon. But right now I got bigger problems on my hands.

Spent this past Saturday afternoon at the Santa Fe Springs Ca Pick-Your-Part with Faby. We were practicing taking apart the top portion of the 3VZE motor. Parts including the intake plenum and the intake manifold on the junk yard motors. We practiced on 3 dummy truck motors and I think we kinda got the hang of how to get to the knock sensor now without damaging anything on my motor.

I had to get practice removing the parts so by the time it came to taking apart the motor on my truck I will know what I'm doing. I don't want to break any engine components while trying to change out a part. Gotta hate that notorious CODE 52 on these older Toyota engines. Its gonna be a big pain to change out the Knock Sensor/Wire connector.

Here we are at the junk yard.


Later on that day I realized that my brakes had been getting louder in the past week. I always thought it was my leaf springs squeeking but biy was I wrong. These big 33" tires ate through my brake pads quick! I've only had them on for 6 months since I sas'd. So the passenger side looks fine. But the driver side one was completely wasted and had already scratched my rotor with deep scratches. So looks like I have to have that rotor machined. And I gotta change out the brake pads too.

I have a friend that is going to an auto school and he said he can get my rotor machined for free. So ill be taking it to him sometime this week.
-----------------------------------------
Later on that night Faby and I went to a friends birthday party. We had a really fun time.
I thought I'd share this nice picture of us from that night.

 

Nice practice work, catch on the pads/rotors and great picture with a buddy in the background making the face! Lol... That cracked me up! Haha....

Obviously no first gens at the yard? Lol.

 

Haha, dang! Was she wearing those heels in the yard working on the engines? Good idea, though. I'll have to keep that one in mind if I ever live within 100 miles of a good yard again.

On the brakes, I'm sure you don't want to hear it, but you've got something else going on to make that much wear on one corner. I've had the same brakes on my Runner for 55k miles, since I changed them in 2007. I'm sure I use mine less since I drive virtually only highway miles up here, but you better make sure your rear brakes are doing something and your lspv is situated high enough after the lift, then check out the other side caliper to see if it's sliding and the piston is moving properly.

 

Nah not this time. I only saw 2nd gens and one 3rd gen. Mark, I think out of all the times I've ever been to that yard I have only seen one 1st gen 4runner there and it was super stripped.

That guy in the background is one of my best friends. I've known him since I was 13 years old. I'm gonna be 25 next week. I didn't even realize that he "photobombed" this picture until after I uploaded it haha!

My girl wore her worn out boots, and jeans to the yard. She already mnows better not yo wear her good clothes cuz she might just ruin them lol. The picture with the heels was later on that night. As for practicing with the junk yard engines. Well I just got lucky. Most of the toyota 4runners and 3rd gen pick ups at the yards will almost always have the 3vze v6. Rarely do I ever see the 22r or 22re. And my engine is the most common motor to have in 88-95 trucks and 4runners(at least for junk yard vehicles. So I went feeling confident I would at least find one I could practice on lol

As far as the brakes go. I am 100% thinking the same thing. I noticed whenever I woukd need to slam on my brakes my truck would almost always lean more to the left front wheel(where the wear was on the disc). So I'm thinking that maybe there might still be some air in the brake lines or maybe.I'm going to have to take a closer look at all the brakes. Until then I don't wanna drive the truck.

------------------------------------------
Today, after work, I will pick up my new set of Bendex Brake pads from my girlfriends uncles auto shop, my new Knock sensor at autozone, and my knock sensor wire connector from Penske Toyota of Downey Ca.

Then later on we're gonna go check out a 2005 charcoal gray Scion TC, with a 2.4L 4cyl 118.5k miles. Looks like it may be a TRD sport edition(has a trd intake and chrome scion rims, ); ill have to look into that. Bringing a friend of mine who loves Scion TC's and always works on his, part of a scion club, and has worked in an auto store for almost 7 years or so. I think he'd probably be the best person to take a look at the car. Hed probably know better then anyone else I know. I took a look at the car yesterday but didnt feel confortable making a decision for her. So i wanted to bring somebody who knew more about these cars. I wanna test the car out and inspect it thoroughly for faby. Dont want her getting ripped off. The guy is selling it for $5800. I brought him down to $5500 last night. So if its a good to go then Faby will probably end up buying it today.

Here's the ad
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst...224565760.html

 

That is genus practicing at the yard. Did you at least buy anything you removed since you did all the work lol. Clamp of the coolant lines to the throttle body if you do take it off. It will be faster to burp the coolant system later

Probably not my concern but when you two get back together? Or did I miss something. Either way hope things are good

 

That's the perfect car for her dude! Too bad you want to truck, she would probably really enjoy it... Or an SUV of some some kind... But we have to do what we have to do, and if you're going to get a car that's a greatn reliable little car!

 

Ill get to replies during lunch. My break is almost over. I just wanted to share that we did not buy the Scion tC. Even though it was clean looking the clutch was going bad so we passed on it.

But I did however go pick up my parts!
Knocksensor connector wire from Downey Penske Toyota for $19


And Knock sensor fron Autozone. Surprisingly made in Japan. Lol costed $259.

 

all i can say is good luck with that sensor as i mentioned others ive read have moved it from the really bad spot they put it to elsewhere on the engine simply because of how bad it makes things when it fails

 

Holy smack me in the face and call me Suzy- price! Really? $259 at autozone?... Obviously you checked dealerdirectparts.com and Toyotapartszone.com and so forth... ... What were they asking?

Best wishes on that... I will be praying that it doesn't snap off in your intake or something. I hope you have a trouble-free process we're nothing else breaks and as few parts are needed for replacement in the process. Are you going to replace your intake gaskets? Maybe give your throttle body a really good cleaning( obviously being extremely careful not to get the TPS wet ).... ? At first I was thinking maybe this was causing you're stalling and such... It can't always be the idle air control screw... I was wondering what was causing that... Then I thought maybe it has been retarding the timing for a while. However, if I remember correctly, this code just came up recently, right? So, that's probably just coincidence. The long and short of it is that this is a pretty common one... I just feel bad for you that you couldn't get through the entire life of this motor and then do your swap, before this happened. But I commend you for going down and practicing, you should have it in a breeze man! Might as well change your plans while you're at it... Right?

Best wishes!

 

Dang it. Ill reply as soon as I. Can. I know I keep saying that but I have been busy.

Here's a video I made to sum everything up about the brake/rotor situation.
In short I found the problem. The driver side caliper has gone bad.

 

aww MANnnnn can you rebuild it or you gona replace it

 

I'm not sure how to rebuild it. Ive never done a caliper rebuild. Is it easy? If I can do a caliper rebuild I'd much rather do that. The kit is cheaper and I won't have to repaint another set of calipers.

Plus due to the fact that I painted this set of calipers with the red caliper paint means the warrenty is now voided.

 

Ha I totally forgot about snagging the clips and hoses off them lol but those engines were in terrible condition anyway so most of the stuff on that would probably be bad anyway.
Thanks for the tip with the clamp.

And Faby and I had some time apart. But slowly began talking again since her best friend is the wife to one of my best friends. It was kind of hard to avoid eachother and we slowly started talking and getting along and talked everything over on what went wrong the previous time we were together. Anyway we workwd stuff out and we got back together this past friday. (About 4 months after the split I think)


Yea its a hotrinle location. But I heard there are bad things that can happen by moving the location to it. Supposedly it won't work properly or something like that. But I do understand why people do it. Totally makes sense.

Yea dude. Toyota stealership and Napa were both over $280. Some of the ones I browsed for online had so so reviews. So didn't have much luck on finding a good deal. And the 3 I found at the junk yard were all in horrible condition.

As for the practice. Yea I'm sure ill have an easier time now that I've tried it on 3 junk yard motors. But the junkbyard ones were mostly already taken apart. I wanted to try it out on one that was still intact so I could learn how to do it from beginning to end.

 

mark an terry have both rebuilt calipers id ask them

as for the knock sensor its a microphone tuned for the specific sound of a knock (predetonation) anywhere on the engine when its solidly attached should work as metal is an excellent conductor of sound

 

Better news than anything else. YEEEY! Go FABY!

 

Yep, rebuilt the ones I have on now... Sorry to tell you, if you're going to rebuild those you have now,... You can pretty much forget about him staying perfectly painted. It's very difficult to do this job without getting brake fluid all over the place, no matter how well you drain them. Brake fluid is super corrosive and search turn the paint into toothpaste and no time at all. Lol. They will stay red for the most part, but they won't look as pretty most likely. That's okay... I wouldn't worry about that so much personally, but I understand...

It's a fairly simple job, but you have to order the kit, and luckily, my local dealer have them in stock and give me a good deal that day plus my coupon and 20 percent through my account. I'm not sure if Advics, which is made to Aisin specs/ approved by Aisin, has kits available right now... But NAPA sells Advics.

What you basically do, Richard, is on bolt the halves of the caliper from each other, then carefully cover both pistons with a towel and a block of wood, the force compressed air into the proper holes. You will notice some of those holes create a quicker response. If you do it too quickly and don't cover them they could fly out of there and take your eye out, or go through a wall, and less consequential but problematic.... They could become damaged. I did this inside of a large heavy duty Tupperware container. They handle brake fluid very well. I might even have got it on video. Once you get the Pistons out, it's really a matter of very carefully removing the feels and o rings, then replacing with new fairly carefully. I cleaned out the cylinder walls and pistons using only rags and clean brake fluid,( and very small tube cleaners and semi- abrasive pipe cleaners inside the fluid channels/jackets, wearing gloves, and continually scrubbed it out and flushed it out until I felt I was getting clean fluid through the jackets. I have a brake cylinder hunting kit, but you can use a simple method I have used before, which is to simply put on rubber gloves, take your pointer finger, wrap it in very fine sanding emery cloth, put the caliper in vice and in a very uniformly manner, spin the caliper around while applying constant pressure to the side wall of the cylinder. You'd be shocked how much crap can get built up in their... There are other steps but that's the basics of it... Getting them apart can be somewhat of a b.i.t.c.h... I'm not kidding. It was incredible how well they were stuck together. There is no gasket, its simply done by seals and o rings...

However, are you absolutely sure that you flushed the lines extremely well when replacing the master? Here's why I ask... If something really gummy yet hard wound up in the line between that caliper and the master,... Well, let's just say that it could pressure rise and force the Pistons out, then simply put, not allow them to go back in. The other thing is that you were able to get the Pistons depressed and order to get them back over the new rotor. That would lead me to believe that it's more likely imperfection inside the caliper or something of the sort. However, as I said, nothing is perfectly or equally done and the machine shops in China... Sometimes, if the caliper is getting pressure but can't really sit, it will show up on one side more than another. Either way, if you're not going to return them, you might just take them apart and clean them out.

Grabbing the calipers I have from the yard is fairly cheap, and sometimes by simply looking at the rotors you can tell that they are wearing perfectly... The ones I got were even wearing brand new Aisin pads. I change them out and the springs as well... But, it was a good sign that this person cares about their 2nd Gen, you know what I mean? Richard, since you already have those and they are returnable without the paint, why not just remove the paint?

Hahaha, "Go Faby"? HeHehe. .... You crack me up RAD!

CONGRATZ, RICHARD AND FABY! ..... I honestly wish you both the best.... and FOREVER, God willing! The greatest relationships I've seen in life have gone through not only many years, ....but they've done it from early in life onward. People at that reunion I took mom to were sometimes married for over 65 years! They definitely seemed to have the most joy, were the healthiest and most definitely had the best volume of stories(See, when you get pretty old like that, it helps to have someone else to remember the half you don't remember anymore! Lol.. ). I bet your parents have some great stories already, Richard! And they are fairly young. That news made me very happy today! You guys are a great looking couple, you have a lot of the same interests, seem to like many of the same type of people... And after looking at those pictures the other day of you guys at prom... Awesome.... Imagine showing those pictures to your young and then adult children someday.... No pressure, we never know what's going to happen... But just imagine. You can share stories of rebuilding trucks , adventures to Big Bear and then Moab, eventually... AWESOME!

 

damn, had i paid a little more attention i could have mailed you a knock sensor and a brand new wire from toyota for the cost of shipping. Knock sensors are best to get from a junkyard if you have the time and can usually pick them up for 10-15 bucks. the knock sensor itself is actually very hard to break. it doesn't wear out usually and the only failures i have seen have been from physical damage.

 

Hi guys. I know i've been away from my own thread for a while. I have been trying to troubleshoot the reason behind my front left brake wear.

As you remember in the previous posts/ video my rotor was wasted beyond repair and it has only been on there for 8 months. It rubs too much on the outer side of the caliper. So i did a couple of things.
1) I replaced the rotor that was machinable with a new vented rotor.
2) I inspected the passenger side rotor and that one was still fine. barely any wear to the rotor so i left the old rotor on there.
3) I replaced all 4 front brake pads, spring clips etc
4) Checked for leaks but didn't find any.
5) I bled all 4 brake lines for both the front and the rear. I did have a few tiny air bubbles in the rear passenger side. but still found no difference to the front driver caliper.

After doing all this the problem still remained. Brake pads still rubbed against my rotor. So i decided to dig deeper.

6) I Checked to see if maybe it was a possibility that i might have tightned my caliper too much or left too loose. Hell Anything. so i loosened the caliper and torqued the 2 caliper bolts to 61ft lbs as specified in this toyota torque spec page http://www.rockfordcv.com/Toyota_torque.htm The problem was not resolved.

7) I removed my hubs and searched online and found this site
http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/f...ent-18322.html
Found that the Torque spindle nut should be at 21 ft. Lbs. So i did the whole turn left and right, tighten spin again, loosen repeat process. then torqued to 21ft lbs. and put back together accordingly. Did everything the write up said to do and found that the problem got just a tiny bit better. but the rubbing was still there. So the problem was not fixed.

8) I re-bled all 4 brake lines once again. Nothing but clear brake fluid came out(free of debris and bubbles) Re checked the brakes by spinning the tires while jacked up. And although the tire wasnt rubbing as much anymore you could still definitely hear the pads rubbing on the rotor. I called a friend and he mentioned to try driving it around the block and braking every few car distance. The brakes work great. But if i drive you cant hear rubbing(obviously because my 3vze and the flowmaster exhaust is too damn loud so i tested it out by accelerating to 10-25mph, then placing the truck in neutral, and yes i was able to still hear rubbing. So i came back home and parked the truck.

So far this is where i am stuck at. Problem has not been resolved yet. And i'm running out of options. I think i have just about troubleshot everything i could. I thought it could possibly be a bad caliper but yesterday i spoke with the mechanic that i used to take my cars to a few years back ago. Told him my problem and told him everything i troubleshot and he told me that he doubts it is going to be my caliper. He said based on everything i told him He suspects brake booster might have gone bad but its not likely either. He believes it is going to be the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve(LSPV) has gone bad. This is the same exact thing that my Girlfriends uncles at the auto store told me as well. He thinks it went bad causing messed up distribution to the lines causing the one brake to brake more then the others.

Now here is where i am confused. I have looked up many threads on different forums. Normally when this LSPV goes bad there wont be any brake fluid going to the rear brakes. But when i bled all 4 lines i found that i still had brake fluid coming out of those bleeder valves when i would open them. and every time my dad would pump the brake i would test it out again and i continued to get flow out of those bleeder valves. So what im wondering is is it still possible for the LSPV to to bad and still be able to send fluid to all 4 lines?

I found that many people fixed their problems by removing the LSPV completely out of the system and runing the brakes 50/50 but i dont wanna do that i would much rather have more brake power to the front and run the brakes 60/40 60 in the front 40 in the rear. Something like that dont quote me just yet because i havent researched the manual one too much yet. But I found that the manual option is a better choice. Chefyota4x4 recommended a wilwood brake proportional valve. Here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi.../applications/ I have also read that the summit racing brand is really good too. Here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905/overview/

If this is something that will fix my problem then this is something i would definitely consider doing considering these two run up $39 and $42. Compared to The brand new dealer LSPV that comes out to about $250 or so. Plus if i chose to buy a new LSPV i found that the dealer is the only route. NAPA, PEPBOYS, AUTOZONE and O'REILY Auto parts stores do not carry these anymore. Either way something under $50 definitely seems well worth looking into. Only problem is that i read these could be Illegal in certain states and i looked for over 30 min and i can not find out if they are legal here in California.


So this is where i am currently stuck at guys. I have no clue what could be causing my truck to brake more on that front driver side caliper. I cant figure this thing out. and till then this truck is staying non-op in the street.



Here are a couple of links to look back on for my personal reference. Thanks for these links Mark
http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...n-RN61-4runner
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=70441.0

 

Honestly i really wish i knew somebody nearby that had 2 brake calipers that i could just temporarily install just to make sure that the caliper is not my problem. that will be one more thing to completely rule out. What im thinking of doing is taking out both calipers and switching the left and right side calipers with each other just to make sure that the driver side caliper is good. Try my driver side caliper on the passenger side (and visaversa).

If the D.S caliper works with no rubbing on the Passenger side then obviously the caliper is still good. but if the passenger side caliper rubs on my D.S Rotor then i think it would be safe to assume the Proportional valve is bad.

What do you guys think? is it even possible to change out the calipers with one another? they look like they have the same mounting holes. they would just be upside down.

 

try swapping the caliper to the other side rich if the drag moves youve got something up with the caliper internally
if it dont check the brake line make sure its not soft of got any damage a swollen line can hold pressure in the caliper making it drag

just a couple ideas