Yea Toyo, this was a super cheap fix. like i said i only spent $28 on this motor. and just reused the connector off my old one. I'm happy i did it. WAY MORE WORTH IT THEN GOING OUT AND SPENDING $104 at oreily or anywhere else for a new one.



I kind of wish i would have grabbed a 2nd motor but ehh.... i doubt mine will go out any time soon anyway so its all good. Your window is also messed up or why do you wanna do yours? whats wrong with it?



Well I've been thinking about taking that tint off anyway so i guess that might fix that problem. but I dont mind having a tint. but i dont like cars that have a window tint when it is that "Purple-ish" color. i think its ugly. i like it to almost make it seem like a light black color almost like light sun glasses. I would, however, like to get a very light black tint on my back windows. because out here you get A-holes with road rage that tailgate people and throw on their high beams to make you move or get out of the way because theyre too lazy to do so themselves. That just assists with the problem in dealing with those types of people
but i didnt know that some tints had conductive material. thats crazy.


Thanks for reminding me on the drain holes i did end up covering those holes while i was at it. Here is how it turned out:

Only think is that i didnt grease my gears so i'll have to buy some then open it up again to redo it haha



Its funny that you mention that because ive thought about that a lot. I'm sure you know that i am planning power window/mirror upgrade on my truck. I have everything i need to do the job already. I just need to stop being a procrastinating and do it haha But thinking about not being able to open my windows in a time that i really do need it does scare me. But its so nice to have!

 

Which adhesive did you wind up using there, the chaulk gun, what type or brand ect? I saw the stringy stuff that comes on little strips the shops use but I'm still not sure if it's worth the price vs a 2$ silicone tube.

Sorry man didn't mean to worry you about the windows If it's any help if you get hit right/wrong none of em work. They have those handy little seatbelt cutter hammer things, with the pointy hammer. You really need that pointy hammer to get one open quickly. Seen a guy wail on a window one day with a claw hammer cause he locked his keys inside, for about 20 minutes then I showed him a screw driver will fracture them almost instantly, tempered safety glass is some pretty tuff stuff unless your on the rim. I need to pick one of those up still, but I usualy have my tool bag in the front, never had to us one but I have had to kick a few doors open from the inside. I've rolled three times but never while driving myself.

 

Is the Camry motor more powerful than the stock rear window motor in our 4Runners?


I had mine fixed but now it sticks from jumping on the tailgate. I might have to use the tailgate from my parts truck. I pulled the dents on the inside enough that it sorta works. I want to figure out a way to reinforce it.

We have some aircraft flooring we might cut to shape. Its two sheets of aluminium with waffle in between. It would replace the carpeted cardboard.

 

I had extra chaulk left from when I put the window trim around my windshield. So I just used that.

The window motor off the tailgate and on the driver passenger side are supposed to be identical motors only difference is the connector. I noticed a speed difference but only because my motor was old and had already started to go out.

Only reason it seems to be stronger is because driver side passenger windows are far less used and abused then a tailgate 4runner motor that needs to be opened for everything. Ur pretty much getting a very little used and good quality used motor if u go this route. Definitely worth every penny.

 

It's the winding / resistence difference. On the previous page you can make out the 2k in one of his testing my motor pictures, like the first camry one he posted. The one he installed has a 4k marking.

Seen one/some with the diamond plate, can't get much tougher. Not sure about the aircraft aluminium, honey comb is pretty tought stuff but they don't see the same usage as a tailgate. Any kind of a i-beam or u-channel riveted to the inside would go a long way.

My gates trashed. Thanks for the reminder. Now I have something to hammer on tomarrow when I get back from the city. And I don't have to standout in the cold/wind to do it if the weather is crappy.

P.S. Yeah that fresh clean lube and unused brushes doesn't hurt either. If you still have the old one you could take the resistence reading. Not sure if your window ones are the same but a comparison would be handy.

 

some of the older tint made in the 80's had a silvering to help reflect out the suns rays that heat up the inside someone tinted mine really dark todays tints are a lot more defoger friendly with non conductive reflective materials

so the difference tween the two motors is the 2K vs 4K which is likely the resistance vs torque the pass window on a camry is a lot smaller than the rear of a runner interesting!

 

Oh dang I didnt even notice that but you're right lol. It does have 2k & 4k printed on them.

 

Yep, ..... and its 2K TIMES FASTER THAN MINE GOING UP! HAHA. I'm on that....

MANNNNNNNN, ....... This day is one reason I have never left CA again..... GORGEOUS!

 

At least you don't have glass in yours.

 

Took the words right outta my mouth. (Literaly, Thought I'd said that when I posted haha)

I'm not certain the marking indicates the actual/expected resistance. Anyways electric motor speed and torque is a function of the current, resistance, copper density, and armature length(eg motor size).

I poked around abit and couldn't find where I read about the resistance of those motors. It was someone comparing some differently marked ones..

 

Nice window motor and brake MC work, guys! When we met at Mark's home, you must have noticed that my tailgate windows does not have defogger traces. Wonder what would be the best way to restore it. Maybe just find glass with traces at PYP?
Regards, guys!

 

yep since at the ends the traces have a soldiered terminal right on the glass one at the in an one at the ground
this is the connection to the metal support frame it'd be on the passenger side of the tailgate (my window after pulling peeling an failing tint off then cleaning the gooey reflective layer off with alcohol and a soft scrubber)

 

I wonder if your tailgate window is an aftermarket. I see that a lot. When people go cheap, possibly the previous owner, and decide to buy a cheaper one that is missing the defroster lines or might have a slight tint. i dunno. it's possible though.
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Hi guys, I bought somethings very much needed today.
I really wish i would have taken a before picture before i semi cleaned up the battery so you could see the shape it was in. oh well, i forgot.
Out with the old:


In with the new OPTIMA High Performance Yellow Top Battery:


This one is much better then the Optima Red Top i have in my corolla powering my massive sound system. But i figure with everything i plan to get on my truck it is gonna be very much needed. "for lights, winch, and sound system" yea it's gonna need it.
Here is a video i found. These guys explain in depth what sets this great battery aside from the rest and what each color is for if you are curious to know why i picked the yellow one.

Tomorrow i will finally fix my cluster of random wires leading to my battery. I finally went out and bought myself a "Del City Fuse Block" Thanks to Chefyota4x4's recommendation.
Here it is right out of the bag. It has spaces for 6 fuses. You can also get some that are 12 fuse size if you really need that much. And like Mark said the BLUE SEA FUSE BLOCK is much nicer. This one will do the job for what i plan to use it for though.


Here is a picture of Chefyota4x4's Fuseblock already installed.

 

I also went to PepBoys Auto Parts and bought a pack of x2 replacement brake "Bleeder nuts" I accidentally stripped the one on the front passenger side caliper. Shouldnt be a hard fix. Just gonna go ahead and do it tomorrow too.

Another thing i bought at the store was some universal Headliner To replace the missing headliner on my hardtop. http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/617671/
plus i need the insulation. Not that it'll be much but it will be much better then having nothing at all. still considering putting on some insulation and possibly some peel n seal on the part where i drilled holes through my roof for the roof rack. but i can only imagine how heavy that will turn out. Having this stuff fall or un-glue is the last thing i want to happen.
Have any of you guys done this or know somebody who has installed this material under their headliner?
Whatever i decide on i really hope to install it on the weekend I really wanna stay warm for next weekend's off road trip.

 

i replaced the headliner in a 89 escort with the stuff from pepboys but the escort has a fiber backer that can be removed sanded of any foam an old glue which is necessary to get good adhesion

spray 3m adhesive over the backer then drape the liner on spray it an smooth over the backer one half at a time making sure not to make any wrinkles i wrapped the edges with half an inch gluing that part with a bit of rubber glue trimed the holes for the lights an various plastic bits that attached through holes to the metal

dont know how much that might help redeth ive never done a 4runner top

 

Hi William, Mine does not have any fiber backer. Our headliners are literally just glued on to the fiberglass hardtop. I already bought 2 cans of the 3M "90" grade meant for headliner and vinyls. It's stronger then the spray i used on my rebuild door panels. (which i havent installed yet) lol

I'll let you guys know how it goes. I do know one of you guys needed some more information on doing this headliner too. Someone with the same problem as me; i just forget who it was. but i'll post up a couple of pix for you guys. I dunno if i should install this headliner with the top still on though. Im considering taking it off. but i dont wanna deal with the head ache and re sealing. i might just remove my roll bar and install from the inside

 

I would not do p&s to the roof. Is going to heat up and get soft, and u can just seal it up with sealer/rtv meant for water that's flexible/pliable. IF you use p&s, use reflectix tape all around the edges to prevent peeling off in extreme heat (and the roof gets HOT, lol.) Did u look into the frost king stuff I used in the panel? Maybe find one t I ats not foil backed, like RAD mentioned, rammat, etc. U want THIN foam of some kind. Maybe joanns fabrics has something?? All kinds of outdoor project stuffs there. The frist king is self adhesive, but stuff diesnt stick to the thick foil back well.

 

Well I got news from my neighbour that they might not be taking their RV. To save on gas and so they can take their pick up as well so the son isnt the only one having fun in his sooped up 4runner. So how does this affect me? well it wont hurt me much. But my girlfriend on the other hand really wants her shower and toilet lol.
So i went online and i bought this baby!
I normally see this particular type going for $180+ and when i checked last night i seen that it was on sale for $104! i went to check out but noticed it would not arrive till monday. and i dont wanna pay $50 shipping. So i found one on eBay for $80 and the guy is located in San Diego. It's never been used or taken out of the carrying case. and he was willing to do an "In Person" transaction. but he decided to just help with a speedy shipping since i told him i needed it for this weekend. So he said he would pay 1/2 for quick fedex shipping cost if i am willing to pay the other half. So i agreed, and my total came out to $90(only 10 bucks more). and i paid him through paypal. Not bad.

So this is what i bought:This one is right off the website.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabel...h-All+Products

 

Richard,
May I kow where you bought yours? The fuse block costs 31$ on del city website (http://www.delcity.net/store/6!Way-A...Panel/p_793543). I thought it was much less than that from trailer store near Mark's place.
TIA

Now, that's Glam-ping!

 

awesome shower redeth