Redeth's 1989 4Runner Resurrection
Jan 8, 2013 | 07:55 PM
#842
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Los Angeles CA
I was finally able to unlock my yakima locks today. Apparently i wasnt turning hard enough. I swear it felt like i was gonna break the key. I was really nervous. but once it budged it locked and unlocked freely. just needed a little bit of tough love i guess.
So i mounted the Yakima Load Warrior to the roof rack. Then put the thing up on my truck just to see what it would look like. I was amazed at how tall that thing sits above the hard top. I think it reaches something like 8-10" WTH definitely not what i expected. lol I was really hoping to keep it as low as possible. literally only about a 1-2" gap. Similar to Brandon's truck(881stGenRunner)
So i just got done looking over his thread and seen he didnt use a roof rack on his truck. He just used the mounts that came with the Load Warrior(the ones i have to mount to a rack) and he drilled into his hardtop and permanently put it on his truck.
Thread here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...en-pic-106232/
So my question to you guys is would this be a bad thing? i want to keep it as low as possible but if that 8-10" high is as good as its gonna get for me then so be it. But if there is no difference in keeping it that way then to just mount it the way he did then i think i would do it the same way he did his.
I work in Los Angeles, and my building doesn't have the tallest garage either. Not to mention i plan on getting the bigger tires, SAS, 4" lift. and i think that alone is barely gonna clear it. So keeping the roof rack as low as possible would be a definite must. I'm just wondering if it will be able to support. I could always buy another set of mounting pieces this way i will have 6 mounting spots rather then the 4 i have. I think that is do-able. At least the weight will be more evenly distributed ya know. There is a squishy foam/sqweegee-ish material for cushion in between the mounting hardware where it hugs the crossbars.It's probably about 3/16"s-1/4" thick. I wonder if that material would be enough to keep water out. If not i wonder if it'd be more water proofed if i were to use silicone inside the hole and on that material.
then again if i go the route he did i wont be able to move it in any direction anymore. It will just be fixed. I kinda like the option of being able to remove it. and i dont only wanna be limited to being able to use it on the hard top. If i ever get a soft top if like to use it in a way similar to this
Any comments/opinions please?
So i mounted the Yakima Load Warrior to the roof rack. Then put the thing up on my truck just to see what it would look like. I was amazed at how tall that thing sits above the hard top. I think it reaches something like 8-10" WTH definitely not what i expected. lol I was really hoping to keep it as low as possible. literally only about a 1-2" gap. Similar to Brandon's truck(881stGenRunner)
So i just got done looking over his thread and seen he didnt use a roof rack on his truck. He just used the mounts that came with the Load Warrior(the ones i have to mount to a rack) and he drilled into his hardtop and permanently put it on his truck.
Thread here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...en-pic-106232/
So my question to you guys is would this be a bad thing? i want to keep it as low as possible but if that 8-10" high is as good as its gonna get for me then so be it. But if there is no difference in keeping it that way then to just mount it the way he did then i think i would do it the same way he did his.
I work in Los Angeles, and my building doesn't have the tallest garage either. Not to mention i plan on getting the bigger tires, SAS, 4" lift. and i think that alone is barely gonna clear it. So keeping the roof rack as low as possible would be a definite must. I'm just wondering if it will be able to support. I could always buy another set of mounting pieces this way i will have 6 mounting spots rather then the 4 i have. I think that is do-able. At least the weight will be more evenly distributed ya know. There is a squishy foam/sqweegee-ish material for cushion in between the mounting hardware where it hugs the crossbars.It's probably about 3/16"s-1/4" thick. I wonder if that material would be enough to keep water out. If not i wonder if it'd be more water proofed if i were to use silicone inside the hole and on that material.
then again if i go the route he did i wont be able to move it in any direction anymore. It will just be fixed. I kinda like the option of being able to remove it. and i dont only wanna be limited to being able to use it on the hard top. If i ever get a soft top if like to use it in a way similar to this
Any comments/opinions please?
Last edited by Redeth005; Jan 8, 2013 at 08:17 PM.
Jan 8, 2013 | 11:55 PM
#843
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 4
From: Idaho
well you could perm mount the 6 legs to a hard top an get 6 more for a soft
the height in any parking garage is gona be an issue (ask me about CB whip antennas i had once) so the low mount to the top would be best
silicone in any hole going through the top is going to be a must and under any mount pressing on the top as well go nuts with it cheap insurance on any leaks
just IMO
the height in any parking garage is gona be an issue (ask me about CB whip antennas i had once) so the low mount to the top would be best
silicone in any hole going through the top is going to be a must and under any mount pressing on the top as well go nuts with it cheap insurance on any leaks
just IMO
Jan 9, 2013 | 01:18 AM
#844
HOLY CRAPULA.... I wanna marry Brandons Truck! hahaha.... Negra Modelo! hehe.
Yeah, that's what I was saying, regarding 'sitting tall', and why I chose to go with 'FLUSH MOUNT' side rails, like the Thule Tubes.... My cage will sit right above the roof about 1/2" from touching.... My obvious primary reason for making this choice? My Garage.....
Secondly, .... no, the 99+ Yukon I got this off of(the 3 Feet Rack I mentioned that's much longer front to back)... it sits quite a bit lower, and not only that, but it could be mounted, as T-Track, directly to the roof, then using the "Lever Release" cross bars I mentioned(of which I have one, would need one more), you could wind up with cross bars that reach only a couple inches or so from the top of the 4Runner.
The problem with that type of mounting bracket(for which you have the keys?)... it HAS to mount to cross bars.... My Cage HAS cross bars built on.... So, with T-Track bolted directly to the roof, I will have my Con-Ferr cross bars with a bolt head under it, going INTO the T-Track, then threads through the hole in the Con-Ferr Cross Bars... then Lock Nut in the valleys that are in the Cross Bars of the Con-Ferr..(They did it that way so you could mount a solid platform, like Painted or Stained Birch Wood, over the top of the Nuts without touching/and for Rigidity--Like an A-Arm?)...
I'll be doing it soon enough.... BUT, Just not ready yet, as I wanna remove the roof to do it/Shell on the ground(and it's going to rain hard again this week/into the weekend maybe.
I have pics of what it looks like in my Photobucket, in "Con-Ferr......something" lol. And Might even have another album under 'Roof Rack Project'? .... here's an idea........
Here you can see the Cross bars Con-Ferr did and the Valleys I was speaking of....
Before I painted it/Resto'd it... But, you can see how I'll be mounting it....
Here you can see the Side Rails that I'll bolt directly to the roof(the channels on top that you see will house the bolt heads that will then go through the holes you CAN'T see in the Con-Ferr Cross Bars in those valleys.....Then Lock Nuts.. then a cage platform I'm working on(out of Stainless Shelf Grates) will go on top and be secured by U-Bolts to the Conferr(grate, like Chain link almost, but coated, will be left on, permanently, and will allow me to easily access the Lock nuts so I can loosen them, while camping, etc... and slide the Con-Ferr back and off if I need to.. OR, leave the last cross bar over the t-track and use legs to hold up the other end and leave it like a canopy, lol)....
This is also why it's SOOOOO important to really think out the wiring for a light kit on the Cage... I mean, if I have to pull the Con-Ferr... how in the heck would I remove all that? Has to be quick disconnects... But lights LOCKED almost to their permanent spots(in the rectangles up front and back, maybe on the sides)....
Then, when I don't want to use the Con-Ferr, I just remove it and use my Yakima "TOWERS" I have(this is what I was trying to explain, regarding the 'Towers I got that day for free, nearly, at PYPart)>>>
^^^ Those will be for THIS set up when i'm not wanting to roll with the Con-Ferr....
They'll look something like this, with Tube Cross Bars.........
The GREAT thing about those Thule Side Rails I'm bolting directly to the roof is; I can unscrew the end Cap at any time and slide the conferr off, yakima towers on, etc.., etc... They're not fixed to the roof, like the S10 or other set ups... Yes, you can just unscrew the bolts and pull the cross bars right off the S10/Tahoe one... BUT, why would you, right? The bonus with having THOSE types, you have your Tower and Cross bar type all the time... And then just pop the cage onto the cross bars.. That's good too. I just wanted to be able to go down to a flush with the roof side rail and nothing else, whenever I wanted, etc.. Which I likely would at times.. And once those holes are through that Roof, that's it, IMHO... I dont' want to do it over, ... and over, ... and so on, hahaha....
These are the Yukon Side Rails WITHOUT the Feet under them... I was testing things out a while back>>>
Here is that Yukon Rack WITH the Feet... SEE HOW MUCH LOWER IT IS? That's why I grabbed it... BUT, went a different route, etc.>>>
One idea I had with them....
As you can ALSO tell... ^^^ It does NOT mount the Cross Bars through the side... Rather, it does it from the top.. BUT, the problem I found, at least which made me feel I would likely want to use the Yukon's Actual Cross bars, was the shape of the track, inside...>>>
It's just a very unique shape.... which is FINE with the cross bars from Yukon, cuz they actually push down AND out, and with 3 Support 'feet'... I think the load bearing would be FAR greater. Just IMHO..
I do have a pic of the Yukon gliders/track inserts, and how they secure, unsecure, and are able to be moved...... All I can say is they're NOT so high arched and are, again, IMO, easier to set free and then slide, then push down the lever again and secure them within the track.
Yeah, that's what I was saying, regarding 'sitting tall', and why I chose to go with 'FLUSH MOUNT' side rails, like the Thule Tubes.... My cage will sit right above the roof about 1/2" from touching.... My obvious primary reason for making this choice? My Garage.....
Secondly, .... no, the 99+ Yukon I got this off of(the 3 Feet Rack I mentioned that's much longer front to back)... it sits quite a bit lower, and not only that, but it could be mounted, as T-Track, directly to the roof, then using the "Lever Release" cross bars I mentioned(of which I have one, would need one more), you could wind up with cross bars that reach only a couple inches or so from the top of the 4Runner.
The problem with that type of mounting bracket(for which you have the keys?)... it HAS to mount to cross bars.... My Cage HAS cross bars built on.... So, with T-Track bolted directly to the roof, I will have my Con-Ferr cross bars with a bolt head under it, going INTO the T-Track, then threads through the hole in the Con-Ferr Cross Bars... then Lock Nut in the valleys that are in the Cross Bars of the Con-Ferr..(They did it that way so you could mount a solid platform, like Painted or Stained Birch Wood, over the top of the Nuts without touching/and for Rigidity--Like an A-Arm?)...
I'll be doing it soon enough.... BUT, Just not ready yet, as I wanna remove the roof to do it/Shell on the ground(and it's going to rain hard again this week/into the weekend maybe.
I have pics of what it looks like in my Photobucket, in "Con-Ferr......something" lol. And Might even have another album under 'Roof Rack Project'? .... here's an idea........
Here you can see the Cross bars Con-Ferr did and the Valleys I was speaking of....
Before I painted it/Resto'd it... But, you can see how I'll be mounting it....
Here you can see the Side Rails that I'll bolt directly to the roof(the channels on top that you see will house the bolt heads that will then go through the holes you CAN'T see in the Con-Ferr Cross Bars in those valleys.....Then Lock Nuts.. then a cage platform I'm working on(out of Stainless Shelf Grates) will go on top and be secured by U-Bolts to the Conferr(grate, like Chain link almost, but coated, will be left on, permanently, and will allow me to easily access the Lock nuts so I can loosen them, while camping, etc... and slide the Con-Ferr back and off if I need to.. OR, leave the last cross bar over the t-track and use legs to hold up the other end and leave it like a canopy, lol)....
This is also why it's SOOOOO important to really think out the wiring for a light kit on the Cage... I mean, if I have to pull the Con-Ferr... how in the heck would I remove all that? Has to be quick disconnects... But lights LOCKED almost to their permanent spots(in the rectangles up front and back, maybe on the sides)....
Then, when I don't want to use the Con-Ferr, I just remove it and use my Yakima "TOWERS" I have(this is what I was trying to explain, regarding the 'Towers I got that day for free, nearly, at PYPart)>>>
^^^ Those will be for THIS set up when i'm not wanting to roll with the Con-Ferr....
They'll look something like this, with Tube Cross Bars.........
The GREAT thing about those Thule Side Rails I'm bolting directly to the roof is; I can unscrew the end Cap at any time and slide the conferr off, yakima towers on, etc.., etc... They're not fixed to the roof, like the S10 or other set ups... Yes, you can just unscrew the bolts and pull the cross bars right off the S10/Tahoe one... BUT, why would you, right? The bonus with having THOSE types, you have your Tower and Cross bar type all the time... And then just pop the cage onto the cross bars.. That's good too. I just wanted to be able to go down to a flush with the roof side rail and nothing else, whenever I wanted, etc.. Which I likely would at times.. And once those holes are through that Roof, that's it, IMHO... I dont' want to do it over, ... and over, ... and so on, hahaha....
These are the Yukon Side Rails WITHOUT the Feet under them... I was testing things out a while back>>>
Here is that Yukon Rack WITH the Feet... SEE HOW MUCH LOWER IT IS? That's why I grabbed it... BUT, went a different route, etc.>>>
One idea I had with them....
As you can ALSO tell... ^^^ It does NOT mount the Cross Bars through the side... Rather, it does it from the top.. BUT, the problem I found, at least which made me feel I would likely want to use the Yukon's Actual Cross bars, was the shape of the track, inside...>>>
It's just a very unique shape.... which is FINE with the cross bars from Yukon, cuz they actually push down AND out, and with 3 Support 'feet'... I think the load bearing would be FAR greater. Just IMHO..
I do have a pic of the Yukon gliders/track inserts, and how they secure, unsecure, and are able to be moved...... All I can say is they're NOT so high arched and are, again, IMO, easier to set free and then slide, then push down the lever again and secure them within the track.
Jan 9, 2013 | 03:05 AM
#845
Corolla is looking good, and glad to see new parts. Yes, I envy your weather, working in 60 degrees would be nice. I have had rain like you experienced, if it was earlier or later it wouldnt be a problem, alway when you are right in the middle of things.
Jan 9, 2013 | 08:29 AM
#846
Sooooo, ... that's a no? hahaha.. Jk, I'm sure you're doing a crazy schhhhhedule. Have a good day, Richard... And NO WORRIES, K? We'll figure it out... I've cleaned out my Garage quite a bit..... TONS of room to work, surfaces getting clear, parts all catagorized... Come on over and do some ''2 minds are better than one" action(Ok, we'll steal lots of other minds work from here and elsewhere, too! 
)
)
Jan 9, 2013 | 08:52 AM
#847
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Registered User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles CA
Hey Mark I see exactly what you meant about the rails you have now. Damn those are pretty low. A little lower then mine. Or so it seems through the pix. Thanks for the pictures. That helped some. I'm up for a drive down to get some help. Itd be nice to install this bad boy sometime this week. I also wanted to install my inclinometer this week too. So yea sure 2 minds working on it would be nice. How does Saturday sound?
Terry thanks. I thinkbi did a good job on installing the bumpers too. I mean its just bolts and nuts so no major modding lol but it was ok. As for the weather goes, I guess I've just been acting like a big baby with this weather. I honestly love the cold. But for some reason I havent been very fond of it this year lol. Its funny because I see you and william getting snow here and there with under 50degree weather and you guys still managing to pull off some projects lol. Made me man up and wanna take these projects on too haha!
Terry thanks. I thinkbi did a good job on installing the bumpers too. I mean its just bolts and nuts so no major modding lol but it was ok. As for the weather goes, I guess I've just been acting like a big baby with this weather. I honestly love the cold. But for some reason I havent been very fond of it this year lol. Its funny because I see you and william getting snow here and there with under 50degree weather and you guys still managing to pull off some projects lol. Made me man up and wanna take these projects on too haha!
Jan 9, 2013 | 12:03 PM
#848
Man Richard you've been busy! I like your idea on the roof rack and am interested in what you come up with for mounting it. I built a roof rack from scratch for my full size Blazer about 10 years ago kinda similiar to the one that Mark had in his pics, but I just made feet on it and bolted it directly to the fiberglass top using some thick rubber as a cushion/gasket between the feet and the top, and using silcone to seal in the holes like you mentioned, and I had metal plates on the inside so the bolts wouldn't pull through the fiberglass. But like you said it makes it a little harder to remove if you wanted to, and then you have holes drilled through your top.
I plan on building one for my runner someday, I thought about using electrical "uni-strut" channel for the rails and then using these spring loaded wing nuts that slide in the channel (we used them for mounting electrical panels and disconnects to the wall at work) and bolting the roof rack to the wing nuts, that way you could slide the rack wherever you wanted and center it to where it looks best. But this would give it an "industrial" appearance, probably not as clean looking as the rails that Mark has... anyway I'm really interested in seeing what you guys come up with, I might have to steal some ideas for mine when the time comes, lol!
I plan on building one for my runner someday, I thought about using electrical "uni-strut" channel for the rails and then using these spring loaded wing nuts that slide in the channel (we used them for mounting electrical panels and disconnects to the wall at work) and bolting the roof rack to the wing nuts, that way you could slide the rack wherever you wanted and center it to where it looks best. But this would give it an "industrial" appearance, probably not as clean looking as the rails that Mark has... anyway I'm really interested in seeing what you guys come up with, I might have to steal some ideas for mine when the time comes, lol!
Last edited by rustED; Jan 9, 2013 at 12:06 PM.
Jan 9, 2013 | 12:08 PM
#849
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Los Angeles CA
Lol Well i have actually been wanting a "Yakima Load Warrior" ever since i set eyes on that black 4runner a few comments back. Always put it off but All this roof rack talk from Mark has gotten me wanting one lol. So i took a few ideas from his thread. lol "We're all idea Freeloaders" here anyway lol
Last edited by Redeth005; Jan 9, 2013 at 12:11 PM.
Jan 9, 2013 | 12:38 PM
#850
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,817
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From: Los Angeles CA
Ill keep you guys updated with whatever I plan to do. I really like the option of beong able to remove thatvtop and not looking funny lol. I'm gonna try to take some more pix of the rack and tubs cross bars etc for you guys. Ill get exact measurments of how high it is too both with the rails and also just sitting on top of the hard top. Plus itll be nice to see how it will look on my truck.
Hey Mark. Let me know about that dashboard cover. I really wanna get one soon. I plan to install that hopefully this weekend. I really like the one Toyotech has. That charcoal gray one is really sharp looking.
Hey Mark. Let me know about that dashboard cover. I really wanna get one soon. I plan to install that hopefully this weekend. I really like the one Toyotech has. That charcoal gray one is really sharp looking.
Jan 9, 2013 | 01:04 PM
#851
Hey Richard, .... I JUST realized..... The one I found(which I'm having trouble finding in my 480 BOOKMARKS( 
) hahah.... It DOES NOT have a slot for the Inclinometer... I have a feeling that's gonna have to be custom, maybe down in Long Beach Swap Meet or something huge like that? Also, there's a guy who does custom ones, even with NICE embroidery, at Alpine Village Swap Meet, at Torrance and the 110Frwy? Know the place? (good food, some of it there, also 
)
The one I found, like mine, was a FINE plush/Velvet type.... Well, you've seen it, it's PRISTINE, after 26 years
lol... NOT for a lack of seemingly TRYING to mess it up over the years(accidents, etc.) .... But it's SO SOFT, looks VERY professional... and I just don't see them anymore.. They're always "carpet".... What I MIGHT have, however, is enough Auto Carpet that's VERY similar to my material.... That maybe someone on here might be able to make you one out of? (Seen a couple guys whose wife's skill is sewing, etc.)... Maybe they'd take a few bucks?
All I mean is, there's ALWAYS something you can do...
The one that I saw, WITH inclinometer arch, years ago, was on Ebay from a reputable German Couple who do lots of Toyota stuff... I think they DID do Shifter leather stuff too... Like Grego has? NOT the same couple... Maybe they handed off to them? Who knows... Anyway, they made them like mine, VERY tight to the curves.... Perfectly placed slots where the defroster vents are, front vents, clinometer, etc. I haven't been able to find it again(you're not the first to ask me, lol). If you like Toyo's.... Does he not have the addy? Or was that a CL find? So you want that color like my Tailgate, kinda? Like my Charcoal Tweed BedRug stuff? (without the rubber, obviously)
) hahah.... It DOES NOT have a slot for the Inclinometer... I have a feeling that's gonna have to be custom, maybe down in Long Beach Swap Meet or something huge like that? Also, there's a guy who does custom ones, even with NICE embroidery, at Alpine Village Swap Meet, at Torrance and the 110Frwy? Know the place? (good food, some of it there, also ) The one I found, like mine, was a FINE plush/Velvet type.... Well, you've seen it, it's PRISTINE, after 26 years
lol... NOT for a lack of seemingly TRYING to mess it up over the years(accidents, etc.) .... But it's SO SOFT, looks VERY professional... and I just don't see them anymore.. They're always "carpet".... What I MIGHT have, however, is enough Auto Carpet that's VERY similar to my material.... That maybe someone on here might be able to make you one out of? (Seen a couple guys whose wife's skill is sewing, etc.)... Maybe they'd take a few bucks? All I mean is, there's ALWAYS something you can do...
The one that I saw, WITH inclinometer arch, years ago, was on Ebay from a reputable German Couple who do lots of Toyota stuff... I think they DID do Shifter leather stuff too... Like Grego has? NOT the same couple... Maybe they handed off to them? Who knows... Anyway, they made them like mine, VERY tight to the curves.... Perfectly placed slots where the defroster vents are, front vents, clinometer, etc. I haven't been able to find it again(you're not the first to ask me, lol). If you like Toyo's.... Does he not have the addy? Or was that a CL find? So you want that color like my Tailgate, kinda? Like my Charcoal Tweed BedRug stuff? (without the rubber, obviously)
Jan 9, 2013 | 01:28 PM
#852
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles CA
Yea I like that dark charcoal gray color like your tailgate.
----------------------------------------------
Heres some info I found on the inclinometer installation:
I've been reading on many threads here on yotatech saying there was a factory clip or input left on the wire harness regardless if you had a meter or not. I want to take off my dash and see if thats true. If it it is then thatll mske installing much easier. I also read that underneath the dash there is. already the holes for the bracket for inclinometer. And you just need to drill through the plastic dashboard.
Like I said I plan to confirm if this is true for myself because I havent seen pix or proof of this anywhere. Ill let you know when I find out.
----------------------------------------------
Heres some info I found on the inclinometer installation:
I've been reading on many threads here on yotatech saying there was a factory clip or input left on the wire harness regardless if you had a meter or not. I want to take off my dash and see if thats true. If it it is then thatll mske installing much easier. I also read that underneath the dash there is. already the holes for the bracket for inclinometer. And you just need to drill through the plastic dashboard.
Like I said I plan to confirm if this is true for myself because I havent seen pix or proof of this anywhere. Ill let you know when I find out.
Jan 9, 2013 | 01:45 PM
#853
Cell these people, first of all... just to get an idea......
http://www.car-truck-accessories.com...ard-cover.aspx
http://www.car-truck-accessories.com...ard-cover.aspx
Jan 9, 2013 | 01:46 PM
#854
Yea I like that dark charcoal gray color like your tailgate.
----------------------------------------------
Heres some info I found on the inclinometer installation:
I've been reading on many threads here on yotatech saying there was a factory clip or input left on the wire harness regardless if you had a meter or not. I want to take off my dash and see if thats true. If it it is then thatll mske installing much easier. I also read that underneath the dash there is. already the holes for the bracket for inclinometer. And you just need to drill through the plastic dashboard.
Like I said I plan to confirm if this is true for myself because I havent seen pix or proof of this anywhere. Ill let you know when I find out.
----------------------------------------------
Heres some info I found on the inclinometer installation:
I've been reading on many threads here on yotatech saying there was a factory clip or input left on the wire harness regardless if you had a meter or not. I want to take off my dash and see if thats true. If it it is then thatll mske installing much easier. I also read that underneath the dash there is. already the holes for the bracket for inclinometer. And you just need to drill through the plastic dashboard.
Like I said I plan to confirm if this is true for myself because I havent seen pix or proof of this anywhere. Ill let you know when I find out.
Jan 9, 2013 | 02:13 PM
#855
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Joined: Mar 2012
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Jan 9, 2013 | 05:27 PM
#856
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles CA
Alright guys. I managed to snap a few shots and record a video before the sun went down today.
So I'm stuck between 2 ways of mounting this rack.
---------EDIT---------------------------EDIT---------------------------EDIT--------------------
One would be posted to directly mount the Yakima Load Warrior onto my roof(portrayed on the first set of pictures). Going this route will leave the top of this basket to sit at 6&1/2 inches high. It would be better for me to go this route considering the garage in my work isn't too tall. and considering that i plan to get a 4" lift with bigger tires the top of this rack will be sitting even higher from the floor. So the positive side would be that it sits lower, downside is if i mount it directly to the top of my truck i wont ever be able to take it off due to risk of leaks.
Now if i go with the other choice(the second set of pictures) that will mean i will be using the roof rack of a Chevy Tahoe. If i go this route i will gain about 2&1/2 inches in height. and the top of the rack will be sitting at 9 inches. On the positive side, I will be able to remove the Yakima Load Warrior basket whenever the heck i want. On the negative side the top of this will way taller then i'd like, and more then likely i might not be able to use the Garage at work anymore.
If i were to remove the Load Warrior basket leaving the Tahoe rails on the roof it will only sit at 2 & 1/2 inches possibly giving me some clearance at work.
I might go this route just for those reasons alone. Just the fact that the Load warrior is removable and that the taho rack sits at 2&1/2" makes it worth it. But let me know what you guys think anyway. Thanks
---------EDIT---------------------------EDIT---------------------------EDIT----------------------
Here are my pix without the rack.
You can definitely see the difference in height between the 2 pix.
Here are the pix with the rack:
I'm actually kinda digging the look with the Taho Rack. But i really hate having those extra 3 inches of height.
Close up on the rack with the Load warrior. Damn my phone takes some great pix eh...?
Here is a YouTube Video i made for the measurements in height and explaining a few of the mounting choices.
So I'm stuck between 2 ways of mounting this rack.
---------EDIT---------------------------EDIT---------------------------EDIT--------------------
One would be posted to directly mount the Yakima Load Warrior onto my roof(portrayed on the first set of pictures). Going this route will leave the top of this basket to sit at 6&1/2 inches high. It would be better for me to go this route considering the garage in my work isn't too tall. and considering that i plan to get a 4" lift with bigger tires the top of this rack will be sitting even higher from the floor. So the positive side would be that it sits lower, downside is if i mount it directly to the top of my truck i wont ever be able to take it off due to risk of leaks.
Now if i go with the other choice(the second set of pictures) that will mean i will be using the roof rack of a Chevy Tahoe. If i go this route i will gain about 2&1/2 inches in height. and the top of the rack will be sitting at 9 inches. On the positive side, I will be able to remove the Yakima Load Warrior basket whenever the heck i want. On the negative side the top of this will way taller then i'd like, and more then likely i might not be able to use the Garage at work anymore.
If i were to remove the Load Warrior basket leaving the Tahoe rails on the roof it will only sit at 2 & 1/2 inches possibly giving me some clearance at work.
I might go this route just for those reasons alone. Just the fact that the Load warrior is removable and that the taho rack sits at 2&1/2" makes it worth it. But let me know what you guys think anyway. Thanks
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Here are my pix without the rack.
You can definitely see the difference in height between the 2 pix.
Here are the pix with the rack:
I'm actually kinda digging the look with the Taho Rack. But i really hate having those extra 3 inches of height.
Close up on the rack with the Load warrior. Damn my phone takes some great pix eh...?
Here is a YouTube Video i made for the measurements in height and explaining a few of the mounting choices.
Last edited by Redeth005; Jan 11, 2013 at 01:48 PM.
Jan 9, 2013 | 09:27 PM
#857
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles CA
Got a nice small package in the mail today. Its a windshield phone holder. Works with a suction cup. I needed something to help me keep my eyes on the road instead of on my lap when usibg the GPS on my Samsung Galaxy S3. I looked everywhere and it seemed like every holder I found was only meant to fit the phone without any case. This one works perfect. And the best part about it is that I dont have to remove my case! I bought this on eBay for something like $4.90 not bad right? I think its pretty sweet. Alright guys I'm out. Goodnight to you all.
Jan 9, 2013 | 09:36 PM
#858
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 7,122
Likes: 680
One would be posted to directly mount the Yakima Load Warrior onto my roof(portrayed on the first set of pictures).
Now if i go with the other choice(the second set of pictures) that will mean i will be using the roof rack of a Chevy Tahoe. If i go this route i will gain about 2&1/2 inches in height. and the top of the rack will be sitting at 9 inches.
Now if i go with the other choice(the second set of pictures) that will mean i will be using the roof rack of a Chevy Tahoe. If i go this route i will gain about 2&1/2 inches in height. and the top of the rack will be sitting at 9 inches.
Jan 9, 2013 | 09:45 PM
#859
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 720
Likes: 16
From: People's Republic of California
Remember, in the Peoples Republic of California (not to be confused with Peoples Republic of China), we are not allowed to place a suction mount GPS on our windshields except in the lower corners. No larger than 5" nearest the driver and 7" if located at the farthest corner from the driver.
Check DMV laws to double check what I typed though...it's something like that. Before it was nothing could be on the windshield, then they changed it to something like I stated above.
Check DMV laws to double check what I typed though...it's something like that. Before it was nothing could be on the windshield, then they changed it to something like I stated above.
