Redeth's 1989 4Runner Resurrection
#1021
#1024
Last night my girl and I decided to take a look at the tailgate window motor for ourselves to see first hand what it looks like in person. This way when we head to the junk yard we arent 2nd guessing ourselves if it is or isnt the right one.
Anyway I removed the carpet and metal panel and this is exactly how I found it. With absolutely no plastic. Stupid last owner. Everything in here was pretty dirty.

I went ahead and checked the voltage like some of you had recommended me to do. And its obvious that power isnt the problem here.

A random loose wire I found that had been cut. I'm guessing with probably the window up/down movement itself.

So I soldered it as best I could with the tiny bit of slack I had then shrink wrapped it.

Some pictures of the motor I took so I can refer to at the junk yard.


Its amazing that such a small motor moves this huge window back here.
Here is a video demonstration I made testing out the messed up motor and one of my motors for the front doors just to show you the speed difference.
I havent replaced the the motor just yet but I figured id go ahead and get the new plastic cover cut, prepped up, and fitted to the tailgate. I used a product widly used in construction sites. Used for many trades. I chose this over a plastic heavy duty bag because this product is so much more thicker then those bags can get. My dad usually uses this for his tile/marble/and granite work. And it usually takes a lot to pierce it unless its something sharp lol. Here it is:


All cut to shape and ready to be siliconed on whenever the time comes.

After we did all this I took some Purple power and cleaned up a lot of the dirt and grime that was inside the tailgate being careful not to remove the grease that is supposed to stay in there. Did pretty good. I think. We're all ready for a new motor install. We just need to find one.
Anyway I removed the carpet and metal panel and this is exactly how I found it. With absolutely no plastic. Stupid last owner. Everything in here was pretty dirty.

I went ahead and checked the voltage like some of you had recommended me to do. And its obvious that power isnt the problem here.

A random loose wire I found that had been cut. I'm guessing with probably the window up/down movement itself.

So I soldered it as best I could with the tiny bit of slack I had then shrink wrapped it.

Some pictures of the motor I took so I can refer to at the junk yard.


Its amazing that such a small motor moves this huge window back here.
Here is a video demonstration I made testing out the messed up motor and one of my motors for the front doors just to show you the speed difference.
I havent replaced the the motor just yet but I figured id go ahead and get the new plastic cover cut, prepped up, and fitted to the tailgate. I used a product widly used in construction sites. Used for many trades. I chose this over a plastic heavy duty bag because this product is so much more thicker then those bags can get. My dad usually uses this for his tile/marble/and granite work. And it usually takes a lot to pierce it unless its something sharp lol. Here it is:


All cut to shape and ready to be siliconed on whenever the time comes.

After we did all this I took some Purple power and cleaned up a lot of the dirt and grime that was inside the tailgate being careful not to remove the grease that is supposed to stay in there. Did pretty good. I think. We're all ready for a new motor install. We just need to find one.
#1026
thatrandom loose wire looks like the defoger plug redeth this is how i found mine

an yes mine had no plastic toprotectthings either thus why the inside is so freaking dirty

an yes mine had no plastic toprotectthings either thus why the inside is so freaking dirty
Last edited by Cyberhorn The Dragon; Feb 16, 2013 at 10:31 AM.
#1027
William thanks so muvh for your reply. That really explains why my defroster never worked. Lol.
Mark, yes I am planning the camry motor install for the tailgate window. I'm actually at the junk yard now looking.
Here is one I just found. It had plenty of grease on it still. Anf its off a 04/90 toyota camry.


I'm about to look for a few more. Then just pick out the one in best tip top shape.
Mark, yes I am planning the camry motor install for the tailgate window. I'm actually at the junk yard now looking.
Here is one I just found. It had plenty of grease on it still. Anf its off a 04/90 toyota camry.


I'm about to look for a few more. Then just pick out the one in best tip top shape.
#1028
Alright guys I found myself the winning candidate. About 5 car aisles in I found myself my 3rd camry with power windows. And this one was in pristine condition the grease on it still lools fresh and not brown.like the last one I posted. Here it is:


#1032
Better late than never I guess. You can take those gear boxes apart for R&R.. Clean and relube. As long as they still activate the brushes are intact. The door window motor looks to have a c-clip on the shaft, but I couldn't make out the rear motor. Those camry ones are just held by the folded over tabs.
I'm jealous, sure I say crank windows are better than power but thats just for emergency evac if the door doesn't open after an accident, it's a no fun groping for the window handle when your about to get passed on a dirt road..
I'm jealous, sure I say crank windows are better than power but thats just for emergency evac if the door doesn't open after an accident, it's a no fun groping for the window handle when your about to get passed on a dirt road..
#1034
Well done sir! Hope you greased it all back up well, bit of a squeek there.
I just wanted to remind you the plastic liner tucks into the slots at the bottom to direct the water to the drain holes, and you tape that bit at the bottom. It just poped into my head when I saw them at the end of the video. I need to redo the seals on my doors still. Knew there was a reason I didn't put the clips back on the window handles yet!
I just wanted to remind you the plastic liner tucks into the slots at the bottom to direct the water to the drain holes, and you tape that bit at the bottom. It just poped into my head when I saw them at the end of the video. I need to redo the seals on my doors still. Knew there was a reason I didn't put the clips back on the window handles yet!
#1035
Sweet. Today was very productive. Got my new tailgate motor and then my girl and I headed out to marks place where we then installed and solered everything up to work. Works like a charm. After that we worked on bleeding Mark's master cylinder and last but not least we installed my new Master cylinder. I gotta say I definitely feel the difference now that I have driven home. Way better brake response. Its just a bit stiffer. But a good stiff. Not a ridiculously amount of rock hard stiff. It pretty much feels like a new car brake. It feels great.

Its kind of funny, that booster and reservoir is the newest looking piece on my whole motor haha. Kinda makes the engine bay look sexy!
Btw thanks for all your help Mark. I learned a lot off of you today. And although you did most of the work I'm happy I atleast know how to do it again if the time ever came again.
Also to anyone who has never done the tailgate motor or also has a slow motor like mine, I highly recommend doing this 1986-1990 Toyota Camry motor install. This thing works like a charm. Its so fast too! Awwww I like it haha! And it really isnt as bad as people say it is to remove it. It really isnt. You should try it if the time ever comes.
Best $28 ever spent on a fix.

Its kind of funny, that booster and reservoir is the newest looking piece on my whole motor haha. Kinda makes the engine bay look sexy!
Btw thanks for all your help Mark. I learned a lot off of you today. And although you did most of the work I'm happy I atleast know how to do it again if the time ever came again.
Also to anyone who has never done the tailgate motor or also has a slow motor like mine, I highly recommend doing this 1986-1990 Toyota Camry motor install. This thing works like a charm. Its so fast too! Awwww I like it haha! And it really isnt as bad as people say it is to remove it. It really isnt. You should try it if the time ever comes.
Best $28 ever spent on a fix.
Last edited by Redeth005; Feb 16, 2013 at 11:55 PM.
#1036
#1037
in my case i suspect that the tint they put on the window had a conductive metal layer an caused the fuze or something to blow which is why they cut the wires off at the connectors
#1038
My pleasure, homie! Just don't try fighting for knives with me, k? Hahahahaha! ! ! I'm still laughing over the look on that guys face in the other booth!
Good to have u guys over, always!
And I'M NEXT on that window motor swap. .... Holy Crapoli! FAST!
Good to have u guys over, always!
And I'M NEXT on that window motor swap. .... Holy Crapoli! FAST!
#1040
So I'm at work right now and my boss wanted me posted at the loading dock for our building. Well I've been here for nearly 3 hours and we have not had a single delivery or vender or courier show up since 6am. My boss is not here, so I've taken the liberty off parking my truck in the loading dock. Luckily I was smart and brought all my tools. So guess what I'm doing?
I finally got to the bottom of why my amplifier does not work. It gets current but not enough to turn the amplifier on. My multi meter tester reads about 11.12 volts when it should be getting 12V to power on. So I took 1 cable and connected straight to the battery and to the amplifier and when I turn on my truck the amplifier turns on and it powers my subwoofer. So this just confirms that my problem all along for the past 3 months that hasn't been working has been able to do a problem somewhere in the power line that goes from the battery to the amplifier. I just haven't had enough time 2 diagnosis this problem. So I have about 5 more hours to go before my shift is up and I'm going to try to get this finished and working properly then move on to my power window button. That is if my coworkers don't interrupt my work.
I finally got to the bottom of why my amplifier does not work. It gets current but not enough to turn the amplifier on. My multi meter tester reads about 11.12 volts when it should be getting 12V to power on. So I took 1 cable and connected straight to the battery and to the amplifier and when I turn on my truck the amplifier turns on and it powers my subwoofer. So this just confirms that my problem all along for the past 3 months that hasn't been working has been able to do a problem somewhere in the power line that goes from the battery to the amplifier. I just haven't had enough time 2 diagnosis this problem. So I have about 5 more hours to go before my shift is up and I'm going to try to get this finished and working properly then move on to my power window button. That is if my coworkers don't interrupt my work.
Last edited by Redeth005; Feb 18, 2013 at 09:24 AM.



