Here is the main post on my build.... sorrrrry its so longggggg of a thread, my apologies! hahahahahaha, jk, jk! Lol. ....>>>>

WELLLLLLLLLLLLL, .............

Yeah, I know, has that ever preceded, "YAYYYYY!" ???... lol......

NO, actually, it's nothing terrible or anything.... BUT, seeing that I'm usually trying to "do things right the first time", .....and seeing that I'm USUALLY pretty decent at OVERKILL on the research..... I guess I will have to chalk up this "MISS" to getting older and being overwhelmed! lol.... (Add a touch of ''EXCITED TO DO THIS MOD", as well, right? hahaha)....

I've been looking into the V6 Brake Upgrade for a while... BUT, as some of you know, it's full of MANYYYYYY options, ... at least in regards to years/application, etc. Well, I first want to thank CORAX ( a seriously generous dude as far as his time/sharing information and such that he's found/learned....) >>> THANK YOU, CORAX, for doing much of the proverbial-"heavy lifting" of research on this! Your write up in expedition portal is VERY well written, complete, .... and YET? ...

YES, you guessed right, ...I TOTALLY read and then viewed right past a picture! THIS ONE! >>>>>



*INFO FROM CORAX*;

"Here's what I found on Toyota caliper cast marks awhile ago:

TOYOTA TRUCK
8173/8174 95 ALL S12WE

4 Runner
8171/8172 95-91 ALL S13WB
8169/8170 91-88 ALL S12W R/L
4407/4408 87-84 ALL (4 Cyl)S12-8

Landcruiser
1478/1479 92-91 ALL S13WA
4407/4408 90-75 ALL S12-8

TOYOTA TRUCK
Pickup, Hi-Lux
8171/8172 95-91 T100 Pickup 4WD 1/2 Ton S13WB
2011/2012 95-89 2WD 4 Cyl. l 17S R/L
1242/1243 95-89 DRW AISIN 1 R/L
8567/8568 91-89 Long Bed F18Q R/L
514/515 91-8/83 2WD, 1/2 Ton AISIN
4407/4408 88-86 Long Bed 4WD W/4 Cyl. S12-8
4409/4410 85-80 Long Bed 4WD S12+8

*************************************************

*ALSO from CORAX*;

Rotors;

Here are the '88 4runner rotor specs:

# of Bolt Holes:6
Bolt Circle Diameter:5"
Diameter:11.375"
Height:2.535"
Maximum Lateral Runout:.004"
Thickness When New:.79"
Discard Thickness:.709"
Vented / Solid:Vented
Center Hole Diameter:3.942"


Here are the T-100 rotor specs:

# of Bolt Holes:6
Bolt Circle Diameter:5"
Diameter:11.41"
Height:2.59"
Maximum Lateral Runout:.004"
Thickness When New:.985"
Discard Thickness:.905"
Vented / Solid:Vented
Center Hole Diameter:3.942"

Corax said, "So the only real difference is thickness and overall diameter - if you saw the "height" is also different, that's only because the rotor is thicker and the height needed to change to keep the rotor centered in the caliper.

The calipers are a simple bolt on affair, the only thing necessary is little bit of trimming to the backing plate." >>>>>>>>>



YES, I read that as well^^^ , ........... I just, again, thought it applied to his SUPER-T100 CALIPERS!...... which it turns out, as mentioned, are the same as my Before 10/95 4Runner Calipers.... haha. OH WELL... Live and learn.

*************************************************

*ALSO from CORAX*;

1Ton Master Cyl Info;

Brake Master Cylinder for the following 1 TON Models(1-1/16" Bore Master Cyls):

1994 Toyota T100 Pickup : 4-2694 2.7L DOHC
1994 Toyota T100 Pickup : V6-2958 3.0L SOHC
1995 Toyota T100 Pickup : 4-2694 2.7L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1995 Toyota T100 Pickup : V6-3378 3.4L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1996 Toyota T100 Pickup : 4-2694 2.7L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1996 Toyota T100 Pickup : V6-3378 3.4L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1997 Toyota T100 Pickup : 4-2694 2.7L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1997 Toyota T100 Pickup : V6-3378 3.4L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1998 Toyota T100 Pickup : 4-2694 2.7L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1998 Toyota T100 Pickup : V6-3378 3.4L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS

*** Corax found this 1-1/16" Bore MC a bit needing of too much PUSH, as the bore is bigger than he needed for his braking system( Corax; "*note* unless you also swap in the dual diaphragm booster, don't bother with the 1 1/16" MC - pedal was too hard, I swapped back to the 1" MC"

************************************************** ********************

HOPEFULLY, I will be ok with the;.......

1. S13BW Calipers from the Low Mile 95 4Runner(Will have all new Seals in them) 20$ for the pair at PYPart 50% off day.......



^^^ ( Some Rebuild Stuff's for the S13BW Calipers ....... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...Keyword&Nao=10 ) ^^^

2. Running these PADS; (THANKS for doing that research, GREGO!) ADVICS' Made For Aisin under Aisin's Strict Supervision. NOT positive on Grego's... But Mine are Carbon-Ceramic/Premium Advics HD Pads, Got them from NAPA, walked right in and picked them up for 59$/20% off- Preferred Customer something or another(OEM is listing 2 listings, 74$ for one and 86$ for the other[WITH my 20% off], .....and my buddy at Toyota Parts Counter said, he believes the difference is one is Semi-Metallic and the other is Ceramic>>>) Toyotapartszone.com lists 2 part #'s as well... And I believe THAT is because the 95/11+ Model 4Runners had different goodies, Calipers and all, plus 2 bolt master Cyls, etc. Either that, or again, a difference of Semi-Metallic or Carbon-Ceramic..... AGAIN,... I went with the nicest ADVICS/made for Aisin, I could find, with a 'Walk IN and Buy Factor in mind'...... (Part Number link... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...91V_0265432557 )



3. OEM-Aisin 1" Bore Master Cyl from 93 V6 Toyota 4Runner (Appeared Brand new, as did the fluid coming out when I removed it for 10$ at PYPart 50% off day) WAS Told to grab the Connector and wiring.... so I did.....







(^^^ The Reservoir IS NOT from that Master... That master-reservoir was nearly brand new... BUT, PYPart staff puncture every one of them they can with a screwdriver and force them off the screw to drain... I FOUND ONE that wasn't, ... Cleaned it the best I could... And while it's a lil stained in there, it's very clean compared to how it was)...

4. OEM 2nd Gen 6/91-8/95 Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster (From what I've read, which is now making more sense, the larger demand from the Larger Calipers and Larger Master Cyl. required a Larger, Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster[Also found on the Turbo 22RE's and many other Toyota Vehicles] 16$ at PYPart 50% off day.........



5. HART Black-Zinc Rotors, slotted and drilled, made of g3000 Iron and will be running the ADVICS- Carbon/Ceramic Pads on them.... I KNOW, I know, they're just bling... But I don't care... if they help, great... If I am unhappy with them within a year, ... the warranty will be used. AND, they are machined RIGHT NEAR ME in Garden Grove, CA! .... Feels good supporting a Local Company ......



Here's the Link(I AM NOT recommending them or anything... Just sharing where I round them. I discussed this with a buddy on here, and being made of the same Material as Prostop and Brembo, etc., .... I feel comfortable giving them a chance at that price. AND, as I said, feel good supporting a local Company. ) .... >>>>>

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-KIT-Bl...sories&vxp=mtr

************************************************** ********************

I will be doing a completely separate thread, short and sweet and to the point, once I've added up everything and installed it and added all the resources I got this from(For example, from Grimreaper and Corax and XXXtreme(WHERE THE HECK IS HE? haha), Philbert... and many others. All the links, etc., will be included. I will do that single post here, as well... But, I figured I'd update my buddies, in case anyone is contemplating doing this. UNLIKE 'MANY' what shall remain 'unnamed' here at the moment- mods.... This is one I believe I've yet to hear a "NOPE, stupid move... waste of money!"... People ALWAYS seem to say "WOW, what a DIFFERENCE!"... Often, just from the 1" Bore Master! I'm doing all of it to basically give me the 'just right' pedal and LOCK EM UP power that I feel I'm missing. My brakes ARE good... They're just not great. I'll settle for 'quite a bit better', and hoping for 'WOOOOOOOOT!' lol.

 

Ps> My master is from a 95, I have to edit that.

 

Ohhh ok I see what cha meant. Lol this was a recent post lol. Thanks a lot for digging through your huge 292 page thread for this lol.
So i will need an OEM-Aisin 1" Bore Master Cyl˟and an OEM Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster˟both off 2nd Gens from 6/91-8/95 correct? Is this the only thing I will need for this mod? I wanna call my girls uncles parts store to pre order this so theyll have it in stock for when I get out of work.

 

The master cylinder should work fine, as well the booster would, but the booster is likely going to run you around 200 dollars even after market. I don't think you need to do the booster for now. Many people find the 1 inch master cylinder upgrade at least a decent improvement, and you can do the rest of it later. Just my humble opinion, but I would save your money for now and just do the master. My master cylinder is off of a 95 4 Runner. But, I mentioned 94 only because at 95.8, or somewhere around there, they change to a 2 bolt master cylinder, which is not compatible. Obviously your uncle's would know the difference, unlike many of the morons at the part stores in the stories I've read, haha. But, just to be safe, right? I also know that ABS comes into play at some point, because when I looked on the Toyota sites, I noticed 2 different part numbers with a small description stating, with ABS, or without ABS. Can't remember the year that started, but I think it was a couple years before 95. I'm not even sure that makes a difference, or how much of a difference, in regards to this swap, but I know that the connector is probably different. I believe that both of the pig tails and connectors that I got were 3 wire, but I haven't been able to go out and verify that just yet. I will soon, within the hour, okay? Even then, I figure you could probably use just the 2 wires that are for the dummy light in the dash, just like ours had. to be honest I'm not even sure if my first gen 87 has 2 or 3 wires. how about your 89?

 

I have 2 wires on mine

 

Yep, New one is 2 wire as well



OH, WAIT, WHAT'S THIS? ..... a gift for my homie? >>>

 

Oh nice! You had an extra connector?

 

Yep, I did. ... not giving u mine, foooo! Hahaha

 

Gee thanks Mark. Gonna have to treat ya to some of my yummy chicken when we head out to the Salton Sea off road trip

I see this one here is $118 + free shipping for the Aisen one :
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199..._cylinder.html

As of now im just waiting on my Girls uncles to give me a call back to see how much the part is gonna cost with me.

Btw this one is mine:

 

Hey Richard, you just have to go back a few pages of my Corax & you'll see what the dual booster looks like. But, I don't think you need to go there, because you're just trying to fix a leak for now. And, you will, will have better results from a larger bore master cylinder. You have the 6 cyl calipers, the S 12 version. But still a little larger than my 4 cylinder calipers, I'm guessing anyway. A large bore master cylinder moves more fluid more quickly , but since you have a v6 system already, I'm guessing you'll be okay. I put the links and everything in that thread post, so just look into his build thread and you should get all the answers you need. Remember you can always at the booster later. You could also do the Calipers later. Either way you look at it, the best thing to do is to most likely do the Master first since it's the only thing this leaking

 

Ok so my girlfriends uncles got back to me just now with 2 prices. The Aisin Master Cyl is gonna cost $140.
Then there is another one. Also Japanese for $55. He said it would work just as fine as the aisen one.

I dont know man. If I stick with the a Aisin brand I think I'm gonna just order it off that link I posted. What do you guys think? Thats a big price difference.

Both are brand new. No rebuilds

 

Altrom on the other one?

 

http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsD...401_0257354893

 

I'm not sure if that's the brand or not he just said it was a Japanese brand

 

Altrom is made for Aisin, like the ADVICS pads... Aisin approved, IOW. So if u found an Aisin for 110 $ or so, hmmm. Also, did u try www.toyotapartszone.com ? Or www.dealerdirectparts.com ? Maybe Marlin or the like?

 

Ohhh snap. Not bad dude! $84.99 thanks a lot Mark. Altrom master cylinder. That would be the cheapest so far.
http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsD...401_0257354893

 

Just called the store in Downey CA. They have one in stock. Woot. Gonna go grab it before they close. thanks so much for your awesome research skills bro.

And they said it should fit 1993-95 according to their computers.

 

EDIT: Oh never mind!!!! you are doing some upgrade/conversion....not stalk

Richard check the prices on Aisin BMT-051 (Make sure that is what you need)




or Check Advics BMT-051

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...2Bfor%2BADVICS

If that is your part, you shouldn't be paying more than $70 for OEM. Even if you choose the Aisin part it will likely come in a Advics box but still might have Aisin stamped on it. That's exactly how my new master cylinder came....advics box but aisin stamped on it. I think once all the Aisin stamped parts are gone they will likely start coming with Advics stamped on them.

Aisin, in name, no longer make brake components. They are now made under the Advics name. They acquired Aisin brake and chasis in 2010.....bad part I foresee is they start producing even more parts in china this year. Hmmmmm....makes me wonder if I should buy some brake parts now for the future.

 

Good find on that foam, Richard. Similar to what Mark and I did but we used Sears Right Step anti-fatique mat. As for insulation, that foam would provide good noise deadening and also thermal insulation. To fill in those valleys on bed, just put half-inch strips of remnants of same foam to fill valleys.

Re: Keeping warm, instead of bulky, heavy comforters that don't hold heat much, I suggest you look into mummy or rectangular sleeping bags that use synthetic or down insulation - never cotton. Cotton does not insulate well. For couples, there are single sleeping bags with openings facing each other and would zip together. For cushioning, consider backpacking sleeping pads- my favorites are Ridgerest. Low-bulk, Would not mind punctures and lightweight. You would not need much insulation on bottom. I sleep with only my sleeping bag and Ridgerest on snow.

 

Haha, got side tracked and lost and had to go back and make sure i was still in the right thread for "insulation issues". You guys all look the same on the Web

IIRC the older 4runners like the newer ones(95's), are open to the enviromnment in the rear quarter areas. This leads to the rust rust issues due to mud accumulation and condensation. And it's just damned cold.

"Frost King E/O 12 in. x 15 ft. Self-Stick Foam/Foil Duct Insulation" or the Insulated bubble wrap(yeah didn't dig for it's proper name), is available in the HV/AC isle of the big box store.

You want to clean out (probably seal, por15?) and affix this stuff inside the rear quarter, between the outer and inner panels, to the inside wall.

The self adhesive stuff would probably be ok w/o any additional securing if the panel is properly cleaned. For the bubble wrap stuff I'd use a few squares of sheetmetal and rivets for extra bracing, under the upper trim and other hidden/out-of-sight areas. A good foil tape can be used to build the box areas around the storage cut outs. Then seal the rivets with a dab of silicone chaulk.

If you're not using the self adhesive stuff you might be concerned about condensation, a few strips of tyvek or tarred-paper should ease that concern. Or just go whole hog and rubber-ceement/silicone that sucker up too to kill any air gaps.

A little bit of ssheet metal fab and you could close up those holes, almost completely, just don't forget to put in a few drain holes.

Damn sorry I got long winded again. I really just wanted to say that bubble stuff is available as a duct insulation