from https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...isc-bs-167140/

there are two style of IFS boxes, early (86-88) and late (89-95)-the one of the right is the late box and has a longer next



i guess once is slightly longer but both should work.

more info on them
http://www.trail-gear.com/ifs-steering-boxes-1

 

Toyo, thanks for that intell. I'm going to hit up a few junk yards tomorrow WISH ME LUCK! who knows maybe ill even run into a 1st gen too.

Greg, That person you described sounds like me every time i find a 1st gen 4runner at a junk yard.

James, thanks for the tips.

Mark, sorry Ive just been really busy lately. Hey btw how would you like to hit up a couple of junk yards with me tomorrow. I'm gonna be going probably about 11. i could always use a more experienced 2nd opinion on parts i'm thinking about pulling. My Girl is planning on hanging out with her friends all day tomorrow. So i have the whole day free to myself. So i thought i'd hit up a few junk yards and see what i can find.

 

Good luck at the wrecking yards, hopefully you find a steering box and a 1st Gen to pillage, lol. $163 for one doesn't sound bad, I got one from Skyoffroad several years ago for $125, but I think they are $150 now, but they come with the pitman arm, so you wouldn't have to hassel with pulling the old pitman arm off, and you don't have to send them your old one for a core, so you could possibly rebuild it yourself later for a spare ... just thought I'd throw that out there, can't hurt to have options, but hopefully you find a good one at the wrecking yard, good luck!

 

Good times, homie! .... I'll letcha update all da stuff's yourself, lol. Only shared part of it on my build.

Anyway... as I said, IF YOU NEED HELP, just lemme know, k? Remember to bust the pitman from the steering arm first if you DO go solo at home, k? And Mark the Pitman at DEAD STRAIGHT and then look where your intermediate shaft is before removing it... mark it on that shaft, then mark your new one at dead straight on the intermediate shaft/yolk as well... This might spare you from having to reset the worm shaft, etc., as I was saying?

Meh, call me if you want clarification hahaha... L8r Dude

 

I had a great time today. I only went to 2 junk yards instead of 4. turns out i found most of what i needed. First i went to the santa fe springs junk yard then went to the wilmington pick-ur-part junk yard(the small one) where Mark met up with me, then ran into Grego there too. We ended up finding a couple parts that we needed; main one being the Steering box i needed. WOOT! Got it off a 1990 4runner. Went through hell just to get the damn thing off. The tie-rods were so stuck on. We called Autozone, kragen, and O'reily auto part stores to see if they had a tie rod puller and all of them had it available for renting but it would take up to 3-4 days to arrive. So we kept trying then Grego, the only guy with common sense out of us jk lol, went out to the entrance of the pick your parts where the vendors set up these little shops and a guy had a pitmanarm/tie-rod puller for $10 so i ended up buying it. After about 40min-1hr of struggling with trying to take this damn thing off we brought in the tie-rod puller and within 5 min it was out. lol. USING THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB IS ALWAYS GOOD! Saves you time and so much struggling lol.
Anyway im sure you guys dont wanna hear every detail of what went on. So i'll try to make it short.
I ended up buying 1)some better/more comfortable headrests for my truck vs the tiny thin stock ones i had. 2) Rancho RS5000 Shocks that were still in good condition, 3) a lug nut wrench that i stuck into my toolbox, 4) and my Steering box.

Now due to me having the insufficient amount of tools for the job i went ahead and paid a visit to the local auto store to buy myself a 10-150 ft/lb 1/2" torque wrench along with a 1/2"to 3/4 tip and i got some more atf fluid for when i install the new to me steering box.
Anyway here is everything i bought at both the pickurparts and the auto store.

 

Glad to help..... Just watch dem finga's on this one.... things get smacked on occasion in suspension/steering realms, lol. My Box wasn't too bad... Bleeding it was more work, to be honest.

Anywhoo, Best wishes, mang

 

Alright guys I finally finished my installations. I got started at about 9:30am this morning. I began cleaning up my "new to me" headrests with carpet cleaner spray. Took about 10 min to clean both up really good. After that i went ahead and removed my old stock shocks and installed the Rancho RS5000 Shocks in the rear. Installing both shocks only took about 15 minutes maybe 20 only because i was also cleaning up some dirt under my truck as i went lol. I even made this short video showing you how screwed up my stock shocks were. They have absolutely no resistance at all! check out this video down below.


After the shocks i began on the hard task... the Steering box. Removal was a sinch. Just did everything Mark showed me yesterday when removing the new on off at the junk yard yesterday. DUDE THAT TIE-ROD/PITMAN-ARM PULLER THING WORKED GREAT! Damn bolt was frozen on there. No way i would have been able to take this piece off without that tool. made it so much easier. I had my steering box removed in about 25-30 minutes. Now that hardest thing for me was getting my new steering box to fit. I know i know its supposed to fit perfectly but IT WAS ABOUT 1/2" TOO LONG! So me being new to all this mechanic stuff i worked at it for about 1hour before stopping and finally giving mark a call. So with explaning stuff back and forth we came to the conclusion that i had to adjust my splines on both the gearbox shaft and also the steering shaft. they needed to be pushed in some to be able to get everything to align just right. but all that was said then done. Eventually after about 2 hours i was able to get it to be straight and also get the bolts on to hold it to the frame. Then i ran into another problem. The pressure hose would not go in the steering box at all so i had to removed the bolts from the frame then somehow had to twist my steering box to give it a weird angle, then screw the pressure hose in. the return line was easy. once i had both lines screwed in really good and the shafts aligned and screwed in. i had another problem. my bolts wouldn't go into the frame. it was about 2-3mm off on each hole. It was so freekin frustrating! i ended up using a pipe that i use as a breaker bar and wedging it between some parts and the steering box to give it some leverage then i put all my bolts back in. after that the only thing that was left was to screw on the tie-rod onto the pit-man arm.
After the installation jacked up the front of the truck, and added some ATF fluid for the power-steering, Bled it for a good long time. Removed the Fluid. then added some again. bled it again. After it was good. I dropped the truck and checked for any leaks. I didn't see anything at all. so i drove the truck around the surrounding blocks a couple of times then came back home and checked for any leaks again. I didn't find a thing. Great installation. I just wish i didn't have to bake in the sun. must have been 90+ degrees or at least it felt like it. All in all, it was a great learning experience. BUT HELL NO! i would never wanna do that one again lol. Such a pain in my Arse with the limited amount of work space that the 3vze allows you to work in. Oh and BTW CHEF I KNOW YOU ARE WONDERING... yes the steering wheel did align perfectly when being straight. So looks like i did a good job
I finished about 4-430pm. I figured for a first timer this isn't too bad. took about 6 hours total for everything i did.

 

good job with the steering box! That $100 savings paid for the shocks, head rests, tool, and gas. The learning experience was worth the time you spent! The more you do the more confident you become, and that in itself is worth a lot!

 

Thanks Greg. Oh and BTW before coming back home I dropped by AutoZone and I seen that a pitman arm puller coated about $18 and a tierod puller coated 16 and I got the one from the dude at the junk yard for $10 and it works for both. Woot! Big save right there.

I also bought a torque wrench. I used it today and it will definitely use it more then enough times in the future and also for the SAS

 

Sounds like you got some good deals today, Congrats on the steering box, that saved you some $$$! Hopefully you wont have to take it back off when you do your SAS, I'm not that familiar with the IFS eliminator kit, not sure if that moves your steering box forward or not, also a lot of people run the steering box reinforcement plates (especially if they're moving the steering box) I don't know if that comes in the Eliminator kit either, but its a good idea to get it as it adds strength to the frame. I guess what I'm trying to say is chances are you'll probably have to take it back off when you do your SAS, lol! At least you got more experience for the next time!!!

 

Right on, Brudda! Yeah, sorry it was so hot.... PLEASE call next time, worst case scenario I say "can't today, sorry"... But I'd have been glad to have helped

You did good, man....and yep..... now you know why I didn't want to remove the intermediate shaft, right? STEERING IS STRAIGHT, that's GOOD news.... Wouldn't wanna have to keep pulling those back and moving a tooth at a time... And NO LEAKS... YEEHAWWWWWWW! Obviously the fact that it's not seized is the best news(VERY rare)... but the no leaks? TOTALLY meets the 'whole point' list top 3! haha... Pretty funny... as mickey mouse as that guy was with the home depot chicken wire light covers.... the smittybuilt welded below the ACTUAL ORIGINAL bumper, hahahhahaa....... The motor that was OBVIOUSLY TOE UP, .... the steering held up fine and doesn't leak a drop... that's FANTASTIC

Man, you really got those shocks clean... Nice work on that, too!

How bout them headrests... Was I wrong? Are they not the SICKEST 8.99$ mod you can do for long trips, etc.? WOOT! REALLY glad I grabbed a couple sets.... they're SO much better than our originals, right?

WOW on that shock... that's, well... Simply put; BLOWN! lol.

I ALWAYS keep an eye out for shocks there... And both rigs right there had the same Rancho's... These were the better ones, WAY less rust anyhow...

YOU SCORED!.....

1. 80$ or so new for the Rancho's
2. 125$ for Steering gear box at Japanese Truck Dismantlers
3. Headrests were "fair" price... 18$

You DEFINITELY saved 100$, as Grego said, .... and those shocks are fine til you update with SAS

Take care, man... have a good drive in your RIG, TO TO WORK TOMORROW! lol

 

Thanks everybody. You guys are rights its all for the better. And if i ever need to do the job again at least ill know how to do it.

Ed you didn't use your IFS steering box when you SAS'd? What did you use in place of it?

 

Alright guys I wanted to post this so bad last night bit I was way too tired from all the work I put into the truck and baking in the hot sun while doing it.

I ran into a problem yesterday. I'm not sure if its something with the motor. Or if it has to do with my transmission.
I didnt have time to type everything out so I took the time to explain everything while driving. so just listen to the video down below. The video will be all black. its normal i was talking as my phone was recording facing down on my lap. Please tell me what you think. It is a ticking noise.
This is the noise it was making yesterday when it came down to 2-300rpm.

Now watch this next video and the video from above will make more sense.

Btw the knocking noise from video one is gone now. But that is what i mean when I say in video 2 my rpm dropped to 2-300 and you would hear that knocking every couple of senconds. After i took off on the freeway(after I recorded video 1) that's when that loud smack, pop, wack, whatever it was sounded. And then I jumped to 1000-1100 rpm. After that the strange knocking noise went away. I checked everything for leaks, made sure no bolts and nuts were missing. Everything was fine so I adjusted the rpm down to 800 again and then I was left with the ticking noise I explain in video 2.

When i arrived to work I walked around the truck as I recorded the sounds. Now I think its the tranny that makes the ticking noise. Of you pay attention to the last 10seconds of this next video you will hear it a bit more and that was when I was next to the tranny.


If you have any idea of what this is or have heard this. Please tell me. Anything is worth checking at this point. Thanks guys. Sorry if I'm all over the place with the text and videos. I'm pressed for time.

 

Hi Richard sorry if my post was confusing. Yes I did use my ifs steering box when I did my SAS. But I had to relocate mine further forward because of my leafsprings that I used moved my axel forward a couple inches, which is good for approach angles and also gets the tire away from the inner fender. Anyway you probably wont have to worry about moving your steering box forward, but I would suggest using the frame reinforcement plates in the below picture to add strength to the frame around the steering box mounting area, since you' ll be running hi-steer and larger tires. I'm not sure if those reinforcement plates are in the IFS Eliminator kit or not.




Sorry about the noises! I couldn't get your video links to work, at least from my phone, hope you're able to get it figured out!

 

ED check it out now. I re linked those photobucket video links. I noticed it wasnt working on my phone either so i had to re do it.

 

OK, video links are working now. I Watched the videos, did you check your spark plug wires, and make sure they are all connected? Make sure you check both ends, sometimes.it looks like they're on, but they're not pushed down far enough... It sounds like it has a slight miss to me. I don't know what the other noise you described would be... hopefully Mark (aka "Chef the gremlin hunter" lol) or someone else can chime in and help you get it figured out!

 

I dont think its the spark plug wires. Its always had that tick, just not so loud, since it was rebuilt. And i have checked those plugs before when i replaced the spark plugs again. I'm hoping that really loud bang, knock or whatever it was under the truck on the freeweay was possibly just some loose debree on the freeway, or possibly a nut or something i left on top of the motor possibly. i honestly dont know. I need to call my girl's uncles at the auto shop and drive by so they can check out the noise and maybe give me their input on this.

With that said, i thought i'd give you some info on what i just read on my Haynes Manual on page 0-19 #26 -Miscellanious Engine Noises. Here are the ones i think it might be considering its only ticked since my rebuild.

A rapid clicking noise that becomes faster as the engine accelerates indicates a worn piston pin or piston hole. This sound will happen each time the piston hits the highest and lowest points in the stroke.(chapter 2) the procedure for locating the problem piston is described on Paragraph 1. I Will definitely check on this one since this one isnt so hard to check. its just un plugging a spark plug at a time.
***The Paragraph 1 reads as follows***
1 A strong dull noise that becomes more rapid as the engine accelerates indicates worn or damaged crankshaft bearings or an unevenly worn crankshaft. To pinpoint the trouble spot, remove the spark plug wire from one plug at a time and crank the engine over. If the noise stops, the cylinder with the removed plug wire indicates the problem area. Replace the bearing and/or service and/or replace the crankshaft.
Now i dont agree too much with this one here because my whole motor was rebuilt. and i do remember having the crankshaft machined. And also my headers. Also honed my cylinders. I dont know if that would apply to this ticking i have. **** Any Suggestions?***

I think this one might be the problem over all the others because my problem sounds more like a clicking.
#4 A Rapid tapping sound or clicking sound that becomes faster as the engine speed increases indicates "valve tapping" or improperly adjusted clearances. This can be identified by holding one end of a section of hose to your ear and placing the other end at different spots along the rocker arm cover. The point where the sound is loudest indicates the problem valve. Adjust the valve clearance(chapter1)

 

I just had a sudden need to go down to the parking garage and check my tie-rod that connects to my pitman arm. Just to make sure that wasn't what popped on the freeway. It wasn't it was still on there really good so that's a relief. But I did notice a fresh scratch that I wasn't there when I installed the steering box yesterday.
Check it out.


I think maybe its possible that I hit some metal debris or chunk of of metal on the freeway possibly. And maybe it was just a coincidence that the tapping or clicking noise got louder around the same time. I don't know.what do u guys think.

 

Hey Richard... First, I'm sorry bout the noises/troublesome idle/smack sound you heard.... After multiple noises and trouble with my first rebuild by Vellios Machine Shop.... Well, It's very unnerving. I KNOW that feeling, very well, trust me. I pay all that money, replace tons of things... and still, I had TONS of trouble. So my first opinion, being totally objective..... I think that guy 'missed' something. I can't KNOW this.... And I KNOW, he's a family friend, etc... But from early on when you'd just barely been driving it..... I told ya, "I hear a knock.... Doesn't sound top end... Sounds bottom end".... Along with that, I might add.... You have to FORGET that he's a family friend on the investigative end of things, and just pin it down and then let him know, "This can't be right"... (Or let him find it)... The reason I say that and feel that it's so important, Richard.... Well, because whatever this 'noise' is, it could become catastrophic and take out FAR more than it needs to. On the other end..... I have to add/repeat, 'I CAN'T KNOW what it is, for sure... And it might just be something 'not so serious'....

Personally, it sounded like Bottom end to me. Maybe a wrist pin or sure, as you "NOTED", a bearing was improperly installed and spun////Rod knock? Not sure, but...(this would DEFINITELY fool you if it's a rear main bearing or rod bearing... It would appear to be more in the trans at times/when you're in the cab, ya know?????) Again, can't know... But when I listened from the back end of the motor, from the passenger side, it just REALLY sounded 'Slow, Dull and increasing/decreasing with the rotation of the engine.' (Like someone knocking on a SOLID wood door... not the hollow type)....Slow, meaning.... the valve train noises; They're usually distinctive from the top end..... which is usually more; "Like a bicycle with a card in the spokes at a few miles an hour/or like an injector clicking speed... Not quite that fast, but THEY'RE MOVING"..... Whereas the 'Dull' noise, more symptomatic of 'bottom end', is more of a "RAPPING, not clicking, and at the speed of 2-4 beats per second".... Make sense?

Now, ... you COULD try a valve adjustment... But NO WAY at this point, after all you just paid all this money, should have to do such an intensive job(OF COURSE I know you can do it/learn how to do it... BUT, why should you is my point, Richard, right?) THEY have to make right what they've done improperly(IF THEY did something improperly)... And hey, Richard... it happens. Guy sounds like a decent person... Doubtful he was just careless and dropped ball bearings in there and said, "Oooops..., Meh, whatever, it'll be fine", lol... But I REALLY think, personally, if it were me, I'd have it back to him RIGHT AWAY. (IF something is wrong with whatever, internally... Then he missed something, PERIOD, Richard... Or at least installed something improperly. He needs to make it right, plain and simple, ......NO?)

The POPPING? Wow, .... I'd guess something on the freeway.. But considering you noticed a CHANGE, IMMEDIATELY, in idle, etc,........ I would AT LEAST throw out there..... "Severe Backfire" ??? .... What happens is, you literally have a reaction/explosion type of scenario taking place in or near the AFM/MAF/VAFM. I've had wires crossed and WOW, that backfire? I FELT IT IN MY FEET, MY TEETH, ETC.! lol. It SCARED THE CRAP outta me. Could just be coincidence and it WAS something on the freeway.... OR, as you said, a bolt into the fan... IT HAPPENS. But honestly? What else could it be but those couple of variables?

I ALMOST hear that ticking you're speaking of when you held the camera mic near the trans hump...... BUT, ....just can't be sure, ya know? That doesn't mean AT ALL that it's the trans... Trust me, sounds like that can resonate EVERYWHERE, .... very misleading. BUT, more importantly.....didn't you say you hear that same ticking at idle? then it aint the trans, if so.

It would really help to have it in front of me again, Richard.. ya know? But even then, I'd REALLY, honestly, be guessing, until we can get a compression test and leak down... The compression is telling, but the leak down actually pin points the problem area, right to the valves/rings/whatever. My/your Stethoscope can be REALLY helpful as well. You can drive and put the scope to the shifter levers and really hear much better into the trans, ya know? I don't think it's the trans, but better to rule out/verify EVERYTHING, right?

Watch to see if ANY unusual oil consumption is going on, k? That's also very telling.

Again, I would have to listen in person again..... And I just didn't hear as much of a valve tick as I heard more of a low, dull rapping. I HOPE I AM WRONG... And that it's just needing a valve adjustment or maybe shims... COULD BE... But really... after all you paid, don't you think he should figure that out for ya, Richard?

>>>>>>

Valve adjustment/From another 3VZE thread; "It is a bit of a job. My dealership charges 5 hours for it. You have to remove the upper intake plenum (obviously) and the valve covers. The worst part is that the injector connectors and plastic harness clips tend to crack apart and hoses can crack due to hardness and age. Otherwise, its not too bad. Be sure to get the intake gasket and valve cover gaskets and PCV valve, grommet, and hose. Also set the valves a little on the loose end the the spec, as these engines tend to tighten up and burn valves."

 

Thanks mark I appreciate your help. If it continues I won't mind having you help me troubleshoot it. But I do see where you're coming from. I totally agree with javing the mechanic check it out since it was all his work.
I was talking to one of our elevator technicians and he began to explain things to me and ask questions then after my shift was over we went to my truck so he could listen to it. He said he had this same noise before on his Nissan and said it was one of his rocker arms that had too much of a gap causing that tapping noise I hear. He then checked with a pipe by placing it against my cover(I forget the exact name; ill edit this part afterward when I find out the name) placed the pipe to his ear as he moved from space to space and said it sounds like its one of your valve rockers. Then he had me listen and yea I could hear a tapping in there. He told me its not a horrible problem and wont screw up my motor but he said its worth checking the spacing of each one of those with a spark plug gap meter or whatever they are called(the thingies to measure the space) and make sure it is the size 31(according to the haynes manual) he said even if it isn't that. Its still worth checking. He spunded pretty sure of it that that's what was causing my noise. He heard the noise more on the driverside.

Idk any imput to this suggestion anyone? He said it was really easy to check.