.031 is the spark plug gap.... Not sure on the 3VZE but the Valve Lash for the Rocker-to-valve adjuster contact on mine is .007 and .009(Factory is .008 and .012, but I'm running an engnbldr cam so the settings for lash are different).... Maybe I'm not understanding what he means in regard to measurements, to some degree.... But I think he's saying "your rockers are loose, at least on one cam, and they need to be readjusted"??? .................

BUT, here's the problem I'm having with this one.... I thought the 3VZE was "Lifter-to-CAM" operated.... No rockers....... NO?

NOT being a smart ass.... And valve lash still has to be set, as far as I know... Thus, 'SHIMS' come into play... BUT, ... Rockers? I could see a lifter needing shims and he missed it.... Heck, maybe I'm not understanding the 3VZE at all here?

Did he replace all your valves or clean them up, Richard?

 

Hearing it more on the driver side.... Hmmm, maybe it's just one intake or exhaust valve lifter needing a shim? NO offense to the Elevator Guy, Richard.. Honest... He may be far more knowledgeable than myself.. i have no idea. BUT, I would go straight to the mechanic and tell him, .... "I'd like you to figure out what this 'tick', possibly accompanied by a 'knock' is... Ive done NOTHING dangerous to the motor.... No 6000RPM for 20 minutes burn outs, ... It's done this from the beginning... It's not leaking, etc... BUT, I've had a couple guys listen to it who seem to know Toyota's ok.... and I've listened to theirs as well..... Even with Headers in some cases they're MUCH quieter... And to be honest, this sounds more like metal on metal/Mechanical internals to me, .... like valve lash, maybe wrist pin, maybe rod play? I can't tell if I'm using oil or anything...and maybe it's nothing SUPER SERIOUS... You can tell me. BUT, ...... I am here to avoid it TURNING into something serious, if it's not already." ............. Some guys are VERY defensive... regardless of the fact that CRAP HAPPENS, sometimes just simply 'parts are defective'... so I never understood that... But my machinist? If you called him and said, "I think you need to listen to this!".... he would RUSH you in there at his earliest available time... Take a look/test whatever, and if it WAS something like a Wrist pin/Valve/Rod Knock...WHATEVER, ...he would INSTANTLY know....and tell you, "dangit... Let's get that sucker out of there and fix it"... NO WAY would he argue or say it's something it's not, etc., ya feel me? I don't know this guy... But you said he was a good solid dude... So, I doubt he'll be different. Problem is TIME, right? Does he have any? Is he even in town? START THERE, I'm telling ya, Richard...

LET'S HOPE IT'S NOTHING! I DO! lol.... Maybe it's some freak Crossover pipe CHUNK missing or something? Once again.. I CAN'T, not knowing this motor well enough, nor having built it myself, KNOW that I know that it's solid/fubar.... just impossible.. But you gotta start somewhere.. And Far as YOU checking things, ..if he's busy. VERY FIRST thing I'd do is Compression and Leak Down... NOT EASY on a 3VZE like mine... BUT, it's doable.. They do it all the time. Heck, I hear spark plugs aren't even fun on these, right? lol... BUT, the BY FAR MOST DEAD SURE way to be sure it's not something internal/mechanically related?(between the rings and tippy top end) Compression and leak down. A leak down could even tell you if it's a valve, most likely, "on cylinder #6", ...ya know? And if it fails a compression test, then leak down... then you know why you've got NOT SO great mileage, etc. It might not eat oil... but it SURELY wouldn't run like it is capable. If you do those tests(or he does) and you see that it's solid/great readings... Well, then you're down to bearings/Rod or SOME FREAK THING, LET'S HOPE, right? If it's NOT eating oil...... that would be GOOD

Start there, right here.....

1. ANY oil consumption, at all?
2. Any stink?(rich or sulfur smells?)
3. Compression #'s and POSSIBLY leak down #'s
4. Stop by my pad and use my stethoscope(or grab one at Parts store), and REALLY listen in on the valve train AND BLOCK in spots(there's bolts, etc., that enter the engine, like the oil sending unit? Listening through the pan is telling as well, if something in the bearing end is acting up).
5. Add a TINY bit of Seafoam(i have some if you wanna avoid buying it).... let it sit for a minute or 20... Then run the thing.... BAD exhaust leaks will TOTALLY reveal themselves... Even in the crossover or whatever.

PS> where is the crossover pipe collector, Richard?

 

Mark thats exactly what i mean. HE said they rocker needs to be adjusted. but that is if thats the problem. Cant be too sure on that. And NO he didnt not replace my valves or clean them up. We were in the parking garage at work. HE just took a quick look at it. and told me that when his truck had the same or similar ticking sound (like you said in a previous comment, it sounds like a card on a bike spoke) And he said that is was one of his rockers that needed an adjustment. As far as your other questions im not soo sure on how to answer them cyuz i dont know the internal stuff of the 3vze too well yet either lol BUT I AM GONNA TAKE IT TODAY TO MY GIRLS UNCLES TO CHECK IT OUT THEN FROM THERE IM GOING TO SEE IF THE MECHANIC CAN TAKE A LOOK AT IT SINCE HE WORKS CLOSE TO THE AUTO SHOP.

To answer your questions. there is no oil consumption, No Stink. Compression i am not sure about. I am up to stop by your place to check it out if this mechanic cant get it it this week

 

The adjustment that he is talking about is a valve adjustment, on the 22re you loosen a nut and adjust by turning a screw on the rocker arm. Most 4 cylinders are this way if they have adjustable valves.
The 3.0 does not have this kind of adjustment and instead has a bucket that rides on the camshaft and is adjusted by measuring the gap, measure the shim that is in the bucket and do some math to find the shim that you need.
Not saying that the elevator mechanic is wrong, he was just telling you his experience with the same type of noise on a engine with a different set up.
The valves can make some noise if they are loose, loose is better than tight as a tight valve will get burned up eventually and you wont hear a tight valve and from what I have heard it is a PITA to do on a 3VZE.

The tool that you need to measure is a set of feeler gauges and the name of the part he put the pipe on is the valve cover.

 

Thanks for clarifying that James. All the more reason i wish I had the 22re. Lol. Everybody always says the 3vze is a pain to work on and its true. Space is so limited to work with in there.

 

I just spoke to my girlfriends uncles from the auto shop. I explained to them the noise it was making and reminded them that they told me it was the injectors making that noise. but then I told him the noise that they originally remember hearing that they claim to be the injectors have gotten much louder. I explained everything. Told them how the noise came then went, my motor does not make the same loud noise anymore but when I do start my truck in the morning I do hear a ticking noise but then it eventually goes back to normal. I also explained to him the high rpm's and low RPM that I was getting randomly.
So with me telling him my story and explaining the sounds I've been having he said, without having it here in front of me its kind of hard to tell, but the rpms dropping and going up sounds like it could possibly be a idle sensor or idle control valve. As for the ticking, I imagine it would be a Rod problem but if that was the case your ticking noise would stay constant it would not come then go like you say. I'm gonna take it to their auto shop today. And have them take a look. Then I am probably gonna take it to the mechanic and have him look at it too.

 

Hey buddy, ..... man,..... I know the feeling of "Is this serious or just a come and gone gremlin?".... All I know is that the noise that concerned me, more than any, was more of a Dull Thumping, Richard... Like an MRI machine rapping away(Slower, dull, repetitive.... I'll see if I can find a clip on Youtube or something to explain/let you hear the sound I heard..... VIDEO sux most often for that... as do most computer speakers, lol...But I'll try) I'm pretty good with 'noises'... But I'm by no means a 'GURU WITH BIONIC EARS', like some that I've met are.

Only thing I can compare it to is my buddy Andy's 3VZE 89 5Spd.... It's hard to tell it's running it's so quiet.. NO header, just like you...

Mr. James Woods, ...... I sense you know a good deal about those motors? So, the shims DO go in under the journals? I'll look more into it. I just hope the mechanic whom Richard paid pretty dearly will fix it if something is 'off' quite a bit, ya know what I mean? He spent quite a bit on this rebuild... And it runs strong, don't get me wrong.. I just REALLY hope that 'dull knock' i hear is nothing serious.... Seems constant to me... Maybe Richard can't hear what I'm picking up or something..... Injector noise???? Not any injectors I've heard.. Injector noise is VERY high pitch and SUPER speedy/not so loud... compared to top or bottom end noise. Plus, you can't FEEL injector noise in the fender or shifter,.... ya know?

... I just REALLY think that's something he should make right. I WOULDN'T pay what you have and then have ANY apprehension about bringing it back to him. Just remember..... YOU NOTICE SOMETHING DEFINITELY DIFFERENT! It's not cuz you heard mine or Grego's.... It's something YOU KNOW is ''NEW''... Ticking you heard, ...maybe I haven't heard that one if it's come and gone, ya know? But the dull thud and one 'TICK-TICK-TICK-TICK' I DID hear? They did not sound like exhaust leaks and sure as hell weren't injectors... Sorry.

Idle fluctuation.... Hmmmm... yeah, could be the idle up valve, I GUESS..... Seems to me those problems are usually more 'stuck on high idle'.... NOT bogging down to 300rpm, etc., then back up.(Ignore the 1000rpm thing.... That's only cuz you'd adjusted the idle air screw way out when it was seeming to want to stall at low idle... I'm sure you know that, just jotting it down so it's all clear, ya know? ) Again, I know the 3.0 idle up apparatus is different than my "idle air control valve" or "Auxiliary Air Valve" as it's also called. Maybe they CAN cause a low idle. BUT, ...REMEMBER, when we were up in the Crest the first time? You were almost stalling? I turned up the idle air screw a lil bit and it ran fine at 800rpm all the way home....The truck was as warm as it was gonna get, by then, right? Drove through the canyons for a WHILE... THEN, we turned them off.... As you went to restart it, ... THAT IS WHEN it did this! VERY similar to what mine is doing, Richard, ya know? Then, you left for home with it adjusted out a lil bit... Never seemed like you had to touch it for a while. Then I think later you had to turn it back in/down... now it's doing this again, eh? HMMMMMMMM! THAT is something you could find, testing through things enough, ya know? You replaced TONS of VSV's.... sensors..... BVSV..... EGR is clean but orig., right? PCV? Wow, wouldn't it be trippy if we both had bad Charcoal Can's? hahaha.

Next time you can come by...... I'll see if I can hear it any longer... Then I'll air drum with my finger to point out it's repetition.... IF I hear it. Far as compression or leak downs.... I'm not sure it's going to tell you much if you're not consuming any oil, AT ALL. Could still have a wonky valve... Guess a leak down might reveal that... BUT AGAIN, he should be willing to do that if you wind up with problems like using oil or smoking or loss of power or HORRIBLE mileage, ya know?

 

did you install new crank trust bearings. i have kinda heard that sound before on mine but mine wasnt as loud and only does it if i hit the throttle quickly when im under the hood. i have been told the trust bearings wear out because over the years of having the drive belts over tighten. it causes the front of the crank to be pulled up creating excessive wear on those bearings. i think they are called trust bearings. its the two bearings at each end of the crank. the fix was to install the next size up on the bearing after removing the old one to get the number

 

Toyo, did you mean Thrust Washers/Bearings? On the 22RE they are located on either side of the middle (#3) main bearings/caps. Not sure about the 3VZ though...

Kinda see them installed in the below photo:



The red arrows show the old ones and the box of the new ones. Factory ones were Taiho so that's what I put back in, but 10 over on the rods and main, and machinist said thrusts should still be standard size for me.

 

Oh Toyo and Greg I bought some of those bearings. Check out page 4 of this thread. Take a look at the bearings I had put on. They look like those that you just posted Greg. As far as my crank goes, they told me it only needed to be polished. Didn't need a new one and didn't need to be machined. The bearings were the only thing that needed to be replaced were those bearings because they were in pretty bad shape.

 

I know it was a while ago toward the beginning of the thread, but how didnyou wire up your temporary rear windownswitch? I am looking to replace the same switch in a similar way to what you have there

 

maybe it was the washers. i have to check with a co worker when i can. i wonder if the person the rebuild your motor plaster gauged before selecting the bearings and not just order the same ones the was in them.

 

Oh, I see, you had someone do it for you. Hopefully he did everything right and stuff. I have no comment on what you're problem could be, just got confused/scared from Toyo's comment because I don't remember anything else to replace . I hope he was meaning the Thrusts, otherwise I missed replacing something.

 

no your good. im sure its the thrust washer/bearing

 

Hey Brandon, i'll let you know. If you remove the plug where your messed up Up/down switch goes on you will see there is a plug connection that looks like this:
[``````][``````]
[ . . . . .][ . . . . ]
[______][______]
[ . . . . .][ . . . . ]
[ . . . . .][ . . . . ]
[______][______]
[ . . . . .][ . . . . ]
[ . . . . .][ . . . . ]
[______][______]

If you get the toyota corolla/camry button you will see that it has 5 wires(i'll initial each wire then fill in the blanks to where to plug them into.
Red wire with a blue stripe ------------ RB
A Red wire with dots ------------------ RD
A green wire with a white stripe ------- GW
a green wire with dots ---------------- GD
and a blue dotted wire. -------------- Blue

I plugged the following wires into the following holes.

[``````][``````]
[ . RB . ][ . GW . ]
[______][______]
[ . . . . ][ . . . . .]
[ . GD . ][ blank .]
[______][______]
[ . . . . ][ . . . . .]
[ . RD . ][ BLUE .]
[______][______]

You got lucky that i still had my notes in which i had written down the order of the wires. Just know that when i used this the up/down function only worked for me when the headlights were off. Once you turn on the headlights the would go up. Unless you unplug the actual button from the wires. in which then and only then could you have the headlights on with the window down too.

Hope this helps you Brandon and hopefully i was able to help.

 

Toyo are these the bearings you were talking about?

 

yep. looks like your good. try to listen to the noise from under the hood *above engine* and than under engine. determine which end is the noise coming from

 

Thanks Toyo, I'mm make sure to listen to it tomorrow.

 

GET A STETHOSCOPE! lol.... No, but really, borrow mine or grab one for 8$ at Pepboys, etc., ya know? The thing is SO MUCH MORE REVEALING! You'll hear 'things', anyway... I mean, things ARE making contact... BUT, when you get to a spot where you hear a dull thud, over and over, or where the ticking is FAR louder than anywhere else on the valve covers.... That could be your area of focus, ya know?

ANYTHING can happen... even with good mechanics, Richard... All that matters is you conclude either way that you're gonna be ok with that motor for a WHILE to come, right? And you're on that, at a good clip in fact... So, I'm anxious to see what you find/HOPING YOU FIND NOTHING! lol...

PS> I'll GLADLY give it a listen if you wanna stop by... Totally up to you. Either way, have a good one, and DON'T freak out just yet... You're just being thorough, RIGHT? ..... 1st off, you're not burning/consuming oil = GREAT NEWS! 2. NO smoke= GREAT NEWS #2 ......... 3. Mileage isn't THAT bad for a 3VZE, right? .... More good news.. Those all AT LEAST LEAD AWAY A LIL from any major drama going on.

Talk soon, brudda

 

Thanks a lot Mark. How does Saturday sound to you?
BTW... Yes I am being thorough. I don't wanna spend more money on stuff then what i have to. And yea everything you pointed out on that list is right on. Same milage, no oil consumption and no smoke.

Btw I know I sent this to you in a text Mark. But I didn't update that info onto here.
My girl's uncles checked out the motor. Unfortunately the noise didn't come up. It was the normal ticking it always had.

He said it sounds like one of the lifters and I could have gotten one stuck when I reved it at high rpms or something on our off road trip. It's definitely possible because I didn't drive it at all after that off road trip. I only began driving it again on the day I fixed the steering box which is when the noise came up.
He told me that I should try using an engine flush, seafoam, or motor purr tune up.

He said that he has had his truck do that noise in the past and he just added engine flush then oil change and said he never heard the noise again. He also said that the mechanic that did my rebuild buys those a lot for customers who come in with a noise complaint of ticking like that too.

I thought I would hold off on that for now though. Before I pay for 6-7 quarts of oil and an engine flush I would at least like to get more opinions on yotatech.
___________________________________

I'm not saying this is gonna be it. But I'm not saying its not either. I'm just not prepared to buy another 6-7 quarts of oil for my truck again. When I've only driven it 1400 since I last cjanged the oil. Seems like a waste to me. So I figured is drive around the truck still and keep a close ear on the noises that come up to observe what I hear and also do more research on Yotatech ya know.

That's all the updates for today.