Look man, you don't need to keep humiliating yourself like this, just take that piece of crap off & we will bolt it right to mine... Okay? I have some shower bars you can use! Hahahahaha

 

Red, wheeling weekend after this? Ive sent a PM to Chef as well.

Im in San Francisco now.

 

Red wagon, did you drive down from Canada?

 

Sure did, all the way from Yellowknife which is about 300 miles from the arctic circle.

 

Wow! Bet it has been an awesome drive

 

In your truck? Nice!

 

Oh wow! Dude I'm gonna have to make time for next week then lol! I know I might be going hunting for the first time with my neighbor this coming up weekend friday thru sunday. But wow... I will definitely make time to go with you guys next week. can't wait dude.

 

Checked out my Check engine light today.
I had the light come on 5 blinks then 2 blinks. Or w/e visa-versa.
Here is the system diagnosis/trouble areas right above my thumb(#25)


So like you all mentioned the o2 sensor is included in that list. So i went ahead and removed the O2 sensor to take a look
and here is what i looked like.


Honestly i dont think it looked in too bad of shape. I took a towel and wiped it down then re installed the same one. but that didnt solve my problem. I just wanna make sure that the o2 sensor isnt gonna be the problem before i spend the $109 on a new one because you cant return those. Any ideas guys? anybody?
Might also be helpful to mention that I replaced this O2 sensor back in the beginning of my build. only 1.5 years ago back in 06/15/2012 Can it mess up that quick? I only have about 9000-10,000 miles on the newly rebuilt engine, on the cat, muffler, 2&1/4 piping.

This is a quote from when i replaced it and the one i currently have in there doesnt look anything like this. Could it still be that the o2 sensor is failing?

 

I dropped by the Harbor Freight store today and took some pix of the tow d-ring tow recovery insert.
Seems decent. For $10 at my store




Inside seems to be welded as well


Not bad. It has a 10k pound limit. I think it should be good.


I didn't buy it yet. I wanted to take a look at the spare d-rings i have in my truck. their harbor freight design looks extremely easy to make. I might even be able to make this with the spare metal that i have. Then again maybe i shouldn't chance something like this.
If i don't make it in time for next weeks offroad trip i will definitely buy it. Not like it cost alot anyway.

 

Do you have any of the 20% coupons Harbor Freight sends out? It would make that hitch only $8. If not sign up on their email list. Coupons every day. I think I would have to paint that D ring with something (blue plastidip?) because the finish looks sloppy.

I wanted to mention if you do need a new O2 sensor, the Denso are cheaper on Amazon.com than any where else. This one says it fits my '89 for $66.05


I got ones for my '00 in about two days from ordering.

 

As far as the o2 sensor, I would not find it likely but it still possible to burn one up under just the right conditions. One of them being I'm extremely lean condition which is not good, because it means the internal combustion temperatures are through the roof. That's probably not likely either, so it could be very rich... One thing I did when I rebuilt the motor was put in my working but old oxygen sensor for the break in period. That first two thousand miles can be very tough on oxygen sensors, but again, not likely, because if you think about it, factory Toyota oxygen sensors made by Denso have been known to go 250,000 miles..... I still have my original one and it throws no code.... Still, since you have a code for it, clearly there's a problem with that signal. Do you only have one oxygen sensor? I thought my 89 they all had 2, Bank 1 and Bank 2. One is before the cat and one is after.... I will look back on your page there to see if it lists specifically which sensor, or if you even have two.

What is a code 52? (Is there one? )

Also keep in mind that the air flow meter, or just the simple circuit to the oxygen sensor could be cut. Is it possible that you guys might have missed it or cut it in somewhere where it might have ground? If it is compromised, the wiring, it will fro the same code because the ECU is not getting any or the proper signal from the oxygen sensor. I also find it interesting that you have trouble keeping it running under load. I know you said you have to adjust the idle air screw... At least one that is happening on the trails and so forth. However, it could be something else as well causing this problem what causes you to stall. There are so many factors involved with just that one code... I don't think anyone can say for sure that your oxygen sensor is bad, & I would definitely say that it's unlikely, & I would add that it is more likely that you have a compromise in the wiring. Pull on the wiring behind each side of the connector for the oxygen sensor and see if the Pins are backed out. You can also do a multimeter test to verify continuity in the wiring. One of the test I would recommend would be to check o2 function at the ECU on the according pins.

Considering this code came up out of nowhere... it is something that would lean towards a sensor or something of the sort causing problems. But I would still check the wiring. Also, look at all the areas you were working, regarding the bumper, and make sure buy some crazy chance that you didn't tug just a little too hard on that wire/( I guess I should say wires, considering that might be a heated oxygen sensor.)

 

I have one of those Harbor Freight D rings, got it last trip up to OR. Since then I've probably driven 6,000 mi max, and the pin keeping that nut on already fell off. The receiver part held up to me being pulled out of this, though...


2wd sucks, even with an elocker and 33's

Not to be an alarmist, but I thought code 52 is the knock sensor. I'll double check now before I unnecessarily cause a panic...

Yep, 52 is knock sensor. Read it again and make sure you know if it's 52 or 25.

If 25, you could try getting into the vafm and moving the little wheel in there a couple clicks towards rich. Never tried it myself, and don't have one now, but one of my buddies in Ridgecrest has done it before successfully, so I have confidence you can if you check out the instructions posted somewhere on YT.

Also Chef, my Runner only had 1 O2 sensor before I did the 3.4 swap. Mine was originally sold in WA, though, so not sure if CA had psychotic extra standards back then like they have since at least '99.

 

Yeah, I wanted someone else to declare the "knock" possibility.....

If I remember correctly, he was in there and had to remove the entire intake plenum for something else... One of the BVSV's in the back of the intake? I know from plenty of experience reading up on this stuff that 3.0 knock sensor is one of the most hated, especially regarding location. I also have read plenty of times that 99 percent of the time it is not the sensor but in fact the pigtail to the sensor. I have also read more times I can even count that it is a very common problem with a 3.0.

This might explain some of the overheating More recently... I mean, isn't the knock sensor or knock sensor pigtail able to cause Serious retarding the timing? I would think that would cause it to be more rich... But then who the heck knows at this point. Obviously, yes, you need to check the code again and make sure that someone is watching it the second that pin is plugged in.... Might as well be me tomorrow! Lol.

 

OMG YOU GUYS THANK YOU SO MUCH. I am so retarded i should have turned the page or read the bottom portion of the page where it says "continued next page"

Yes it is a code 52. I just figured i had read the code backwards but no it did have 5 blinks, pause, then 2 blinks. then a long pause and repeat. So Yes Code 52 guys
Here are the diagnosis and trouble areas.


Jeez man. Im definitely bummed out about that because if it is the knock sensor that is gonna be a huge pain in the ass to do. Just getting the intake plenum off was a hard enough job in itself when i did it a while back ago. I cant imagine having to dig further in then that. urgh.... dang.


Mark You are right. That would definitely explain the overheating issues ive had when we drive out on those inclines at big bear. and that would also explain the problems in using a lil more gas then others report getting in the 3.0. Man.... definitely gonna have to do some research on this one.

 

Gonna very likely have to pull the intake to get that pig tail sewn up/granting the Knock sensor itself isn't the problem.

My buddy battled with this code forever, and was in there twice before he solved the wiring, which ended up being the only problem... The sensor was fine. If I remember correctly, someone sells the pig tail kit.

Tty2mrw bud, I'm CRASH'n while typing! Lol

 

I am not familiar with the 3.0, but there is not someway of getting to it with out pulling the intake? Even from underneath? I had a 3.0 and never had any problems with it and never had to replace an Knock Sensor in it so do not know what is involved.

Just for future reference on O2 Sensors, I get mine from SparkPlugs.com or I get the part number off of the website and search on ebay and save a few more dollars that way. http://www.sparkplugs.com/SearchResu...x?kw=o2+sensor

 

No, there is no way. It's underneath the bottom half of the intake, where it splits to each head. Just about in the middle. That's why most people just replace the sensor with the pigtail when the head gaskets are done.

 

You're right it isnt on the bottom end.
The knock sensor and its wire are both located on the top end.
Here is what the engine looks like once the intake plenum is off the top end.( and that is a job in itself getting it off! As you can see the knock sensor is still not exposed. The whole middle part also has to be removed too. Grrr this is where im gonna run into a royal pita!



After the top end is removed the knocksensor/wire will be exposed an available to replacement. You can see it there in the middle of both heads.


Woo man that is gonna be a fun project. lol2

 

surprised you didnt replace the knock sensor wire during your engine rebuild. it should be done no matter what due to the location its only makes sense to do it if your gonna have the motor all apart. well its too late now so just take your time and take it apart. replace any hoses you break alone the way. it might be smart to replace the knock sensor itself as well but it not common for them to go bad.

 

ive read that several people just flat disconnect the original knock sensor as its a huge pain to fix an 90% of the time its the wire to it an mount a new one on a lift bracket or another metal spot drilled an tapped

all a knock sensor is, is a transducer an microphone tuned to detect a certain frequency metal is an excellent conductor of sound so the sound of a knock (or pre-detonation) in any cylinder will set it off which tells the engine to calm down

all it needs is a solid metal connection to the engine