Originally Posted by NYHumpinUtah

Rad4Runner
Hope you stop by and say hello when your going through Cedar City 3 miles off the 15...
When do you plan on being in this area of your trip?

Originally Posted by NYHumpinUtah

Great, while your here you can help me out with a few wires..


Just kidding..............

Originally Posted by RAD4Runner

Wrong Starter Relay Wiring: Affected Models Documented

1986 22RE Manual (rad4runner's printed FSM ):


1988 22RE Manual (From FSM PDF):

TRUCKS FIXED BY REWIRING: phantez's (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52299513)

1989, 22RE, Manual (cr@ves4wheelin@yotatech):

TRUCKS FIXED BY REWIRING:
Griswald's 1989 22RE: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classi...ml#post2730870


1989-1992 4Runner V6, 1989-1990 Pickup V6 (schematic shared by DrCreosotes@yotatech) Wired Wrong:


I am puzzled, however, because while 1989 V6's are wired wrong https://www.yotatech.com/forums/"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QTko5RDrc1veqOBwdJtvhGT5tNboIqKrY57DBE1rZAdWkbG_-gbvHQiE73SwuUvw8xEPM5drMVMlPsSIjt3pMVrKKGeKfaPMnrI OQjwAx-BCK4eg5btc2AFaUQ50pW0nvvDUErM00j5ZlfI5h_wbgtxUc3qM LjWWb24oVgA8mACTFgEksgfWxuczZHMI-MKuR5RsmWeRMEVch6YnEh2dzFlABn5sYdPIcO3pql6M_udz-kSx-RSiBvNK-8rxLOHCo2xWFjKyNaiU0YCNBd139N7AmIKjF5Yo9gkClKxBd6y djdRiqPZZTZOXJls2ASSFu777x8AlXwp0C8l3U7D02iX9LpRp0 ZoxU6sMklLvkTsXzFM-RAGAFI-10IgpOUqdyrKSOblZvzLUqps9-LvklRGdQJCvDMkMz5Qmt_Se7Ofri6I0zvDUr-Nswxn7dA5ynBQZEraChxyPnvodeHmmOMapZuscniT3n7t593ew i5kCW6tAcaAOOTrhKfMliA4Qi27E6qCKngwipzNzcizyQLms--Q7_rqWbXTm3sRyj11Y7GdUzSjfyeDMRLrgb0MYGFuLSRbqrpZp 0GDdzPlytals3hIDZVItKRHRJHZl6iOD48N0RfbY=w1024-h609-no""]this schematic[/url] of a 1988 V6 3VZ posted somewhere in the forum shows correct wiring. Perhaps the 1989 engineer did not know of the correction and re-used the wrong schematic?

HERE's HOW TO FIX IT:
1) Verify that the starter solenoid, contacts and motor are good (THIS WAY), AND...
repeat: AND, not OR.
2) Fix the starter relay problem THIS WAY.

keywords: clicknocrank, clickonly, no crank, clickonlynocrank, wiringflaw, affectedmodels

Originally Posted by Gevo

...my 1991 3.0 AT does NOT have a starter relay, but I may have a long current flor path like the improperly wired 22re AT you drew up. Can you confirm this ? Worst case I will just install my own relay ...

Originally Posted by 86T4Ruby

Originally Posted by 86T4Ruby

Originally Posted by RAD4Runner

Even after I cleaned my starter relay contacts, and after months of being able to start with no issues, the "C.O.R. Click-only" problem struck again. I reviewed the schematic and found the electrical engineering blunder explained here.

Below is the clean and robust fix for the starting (cranking) circuit wiring flaw. No additional or replacement parts, except for wire and an optional kill switch.

AFFECTED MODELS:
May 1986 to 1988 4Runners and trucks with 22R-E
1989-1992 4Runner V6, and 1989-1990 Pickup V6 Thanks, DrCreosote, for sharing your schematic.
Would appreciate if members with different year-models could verify theirs as well.

NOT AFFECTED MODEL:
According to this schematic, the 1988 4Runner, V6 3VZ does not have the wiring error.

Trucks made before May 1986 may not have the starter relay so this does not apply.
1986-1988 trucks/4Runners with auto transmission do not have starter relay, either. Click-only problem may also occur on them.
Examples:
Those made earlier than May Like richiegrich's Feb, and KidV's do not have starter relay.
For these models, I highly recommend adding a properly-wired starter relay.

Schematic of flawed stock wiring below shows that:

• High current (12-Amps) to energize starter solenoid passes through ST1 contacts of ignition switch. This puts unnecessary stress on switch contacts, cause pitting, high resistance, too much voltage drop (solenoid not getting enough voltage), and defeats purpose of adding the relay in the first place.
• Because solenoid contacts do not completely close, they will be arcing and/or heating up unnecessarily (like bad connection between power cord plug for electric flatiron makes plug and wire hot), hastening their demise.

To verify if your stock wiring needs this fix refer to this with notes on how circuit without flaw should work:


To correct:
Cut wire to pin 4 of starter relay here:


Picture here:

Insulate end on harness. This will not connect to anything anymore.

It should like this now.


To find Pin3, look for terminal of 40-Amp fuse that connects to 80A Fusible link. This is terminal 4. Terminal 3 is the opposite terminal. To verify that you have the right Pin3 of FL, measure voltage there. With 40-Amp fuse installed, you should get 12V. Remove 40-amp fuse, you should get no voltage.
Connect (crimp or crimp PLUS solder) wire from Start relay Pin 4 to Terminal 3 of FL.


Fusible Link is in this fuse block:


Terminal 3 is accessible from bottom.

IIRC, this picture shows Terminal 3 removed so I can tap into it.
Verify it is Pin3, such that when you remove FL you do not get +12V, and you get +12V when FL is re-installed.

When you make a tap, make sure you have both mechanical & electrical integrity (i.e., crimp OR wrap around existing wire then solder).

It would be nice to insert a kill switch in wire between FL and start relay. Hide it and don't post where you put it here (duh!). Bonus is that kill switch will interrupt power in the extremely rare case that starter relay contacts get welded in closed position. Final circuit should look like this- [size="3"]simple, robust[/size]:



NOTE: An alternative, so you would not need to dig into fuse block, is connect Pin 4 of starter relay to a AWG 12 wire to a fuse directly connected to battery positive.




UPDATES:

Terry fixed his here

Stanz related repair where he replaced the broken stock starter relay with a 40-Amp aftermarket one is here.

Another one fixed: