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How to Check if Starter Solenoid and Motor are working, Click-only, No-Crank:
I covered the root cause of click-only, no-crank for 1984-1988 22R-E's thoroughly, but some people may not have the patience to read the whole post, and it helps others to troubleshoot one little part at a time so here's how to check the downstream half of the problem.... See if starter solenoid and motor are doing their jobs:
Verify that THICK positive battery cable to starter and ground connection to block are good. Good electrical connection means bare, shiny metal contacting bare, shiny metal. If you don't have that, fix it then we'll talk.
Crimp/solder a 1/4-inch female spade terminal to one end of 12AWG wire long enough to reach between this starter solenoid connector (below) and battery.
Run end of wire with female spade terminal down to the starter solenoid.
PUT GEAR IN NEUTRAL IF MANUAL TRANS, PARK IF AUTO.
Disconnect this spade connector for starter solenoid COIL:
Connect the female spade connector OF YOUR TEST WIRE to the male spade terminal on starter solenoid connector.
Run the 12AWG back to battery positive.
VERIFY THAT GEAR IS REALLY IN NEUTRAL.YES CHECK AGAIN.
Momentarily touch other end of the wire to battery positive post. Expect a spark.
Solenoid should clunk energetically and starter motor should run.
IF solenoid clunks energetically but starter motor does not run, suspect bad starter solenoid contacts OR bad connections from battery positive to st@rter s0len0id screw terminal to battery positive and battery negative to block, OR bad starter motor.
IF you CONSISTENTLY get the favorable outcome (solenoid clunks energetically and starter motor runs), the problem most likely lies upstream. Test with starter relay connected normally. IF this does not get starter solenoid to clunk energetically and turn the motor on:
Check to make sure the clutch safety switch and /or the clutch safety cancel switch works.
OR inspect / clean / test the neutral safety switch,
Add a starter relay
...Fun trips Ray! You are very much fueling the road-trip itch i've been getting!
Speaking of beautiful and wild places, Gotta do it while we can (even museums when we retire means lots of walking- LOL!) I wanna share a couple vids that my cousin took in the wild with you...
COUPLE OF MANTA RAYS FEEDING:
(Near the surface after we have taken SCUBA gear off so we merely snorkeled. Cousin held his breath to take the video...)
Starter Solenoid Current Flow on 1995 and earlier Trucks
I HOPE THIS HELPS CLARIFY THE TOPIC FURTHER...
In trucks without starter relay or those with relays wired wrong, current up to 12 Amps needed to energize the starter solenoid and actuate the plunger goes over excessively long wiring and ignition switch ST1 contacts and neutral safety switch contacts, causing too much power loss and causing intermittent actuation of starter solenoid. This also shortens life of ST1 and NSS contacts. Healthy battery and wiring, good ignition switch contacts, smooth operation of solenoid plunger, light plunger return spring tension may mask the problem; hence, intermittent.
Wrong Start3r R3lay Wiring: Affected Models Documented
This:
1) Causes too much resistance and voltage drop that too little power reaches the start3r sol3noid to energize it completely.
2) Subjects the ignition switch ST1 contact to approx 12 amps needed to energize the starter solenoid.
1986 22RE Manual (rad4runner's printed FSM ):
Originally Posted by robwormald
Another data point FWIW, my 1986 22RTE 4x4 pickup didn't have a starter relay at all. Put one in and haven't had any issues since.
1990 Toyota 4R, 3VZE, AT, V6, 4WD. (Hadia's thread here)
I am puzzled, however, because while 1989 V6's are wired wrong A schematic of a 1988 V6 3VZ posted somewhere in the forum shows correct wiring. Perhaps the 1989 engineer did not know of the correction and re-used the wrong schematic?
HERE's HOW TO FIX IT:
1) Verify that the start3r sol3noid[/url], contacts and motor are good (THIS WAY), AND...
repeat: AND, not OR.
2) Fix the starter relay problem THIS WAY.
My truck takes my kayak, camping gear and me to places. One of them is La Jolla Shores...
Dolphin sighting last Father's Sunday. At 8-second mark you'll hear the sound one of them made...
I spent a lot of time at LaJolla. I hope to get back out that way someday for a vacation. Great write ups on your wiring flow charts. When you get a chance, could you show where the wiring from the battery to power the coil including the Ignition Switch is routed. I have tried to follow it out by exposing a part of the wire loom and seeing how it is routed. I am not sure if it runs thru the Main in the dash or it is part of the wiring in the head light harness. I can half way follow a wiring diagram but it does not always show where the wiring is actually going thru the truck.
I am in no hurry for the information but have run into no power to the coil in the past. Recently I helped a friend fix a truck and on a wild butt guess it was just a faulty Ignition Switch. If it had been more then that I would of been stumped on how to chase the signal. I am sure I will see that problem again in the future and would like to be better prepared for it.
I wish I had your understanding of wiring diagrams as you.
I spent a lot of time at LaJolla. I hope to get back out that way someday for a vacation...
.... could you show where the wiring from the battery to power the coil including the Ignition Switch is routed. ...
Hi Terry,
Would be cool if you could visit. I can be your official So Cal tour guide
Sure, will look at the wiring for you.
BTW, I send you PM regarding PM from a SCAMMER who managed to join the forum - or someone who hacked a member's account.
Cheers!
How to wire (100% plug-and-play) starter relay retrofit for 1984 to 1991 trucks or 4Runners without stock starter relay, or with starter relay that is wired wrong from the factory:
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 07-09-2017 at 01:43 PM.
How to Verify If Starter Relay is Wired Correctly on 1990-1995 4Runner
How to Verify If Starter Relay is Wired Correctly on 1990-1995 4Runner:
Starter relay is on Relay Block 1 (R/B2) in engine compartment:
Here's the schematic:
Voltage & continuity checks:
Pin 1 (black wire) should only have 12V when ign is in Start position.
Pin 2 (black-red) should only provide ground IF clutch is depressed OR IF clutch safety cancel is activated.
Pin 3 should have continuity to starter solenoid control wire (here), AND should have 12V when ign switch is turned to start and starter relay clicks. This 12V should also be seen at starter solenoid control wire. Pin 5 should always have 12V even if ignition switch is OFF.
I had a starter issue about 2 years back. I took it to Ace Alternator in santa Fe Springs ca where i had previously bought my higher output alternator. They ran a new wire from battery to fuse to a new solenoid to my starter. Now it works every time!
06-06-2017, 06:05 PM
