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Drats, I was hoping to leave the steering box alone since the backlash was within spec
I haven't done anything with steering boxes before
I assume you replaced with a rebuilt unit?
Also, was the SR5 you remember totally stock, and are you stock now?
I'm pretty sure the lifting and big wheels puts these steering systems through more hell than people realize.
I toy with the idea of removing the body lift and going back to stock tires... But the tires are brand new... And it does look *really* good
No my replacement steering box was bought off craigslist. Was supposedly a trail gear box. It may have been a rebuilt box sold by trailgear at one time but it certainly wasn't one of their new ones. it was a dramatic improvement over my original with 186k on it but that goes to show you how bad they can get.
The SR5 was bone stock. street driven. Mine has BJ spacers and 31's. that's all.
No my replacement steering box was bought off craigslist. Was supposedly a trail gear box. It may have been a rebuilt box sold by trailgear at one time but it certainly wasn't one of their new ones. it was a dramatic improvement over my original with 186k on it but that goes to show you how bad they can get.
The SR5 was bone stock. street driven. Mine has BJ spacers and 31's. that's all.
Yours does look really good with that stance.
Thanks!
Sounds like we have the same appearance
I have 31s as well, 2" body spacers instead of BJ spacers.
I think body spacers are less stress on the steering than the ball joint spacers? All the steering bits keep the same angle, the only difference is the center of gravity of the truck is about an inch higher.
(Though it makes anything that goes from body to frame a pain to line up, like the air intake hose, shifter boots, throttle cable...)
I think I saw that 31s will do just fine with no lift at all, though I think the big stanced tires are a lot harder on the steering than the lift
Adding a reman ACdelco steering box to the cart full of moog steering parts (less the idler arm I bought years ago) brings the rock auto total to about $600
Ouch, maybe I'll inspect things again and see what can stay. Then again, it's the second most important system after brakes, so maybe just suck it up.
Also, i now think the half axles have plenty of life left
I bought that LCE throttle body refurb kit, does anyone want the really nice idle adjust screw from it? I already have one, I'll send it to someone for the cost of postage
Alternator is a rebuilt nippondenso, worth repairing.
Removed and disassembled, looks like it was just full of copper crap! The worst brush still had 5mm of travel, so I cleaned it up, reassembled, and reinstalled, all in less than an hour!
Took a good long drive, no more lights, I'll throw the new brushes in the parts box when they show up just in case!
That’s very much what my alternator looked like inside with a double dose of ps fluid all over it. I think the fluid lead to the demise of the slip rings. I was happy to replace it.
Do you want the nice LCE idle adjust screw I just got in the mail with my throttle kit?
No leaks from my PS pump yet, but I'm keeping an eye on it
I'll be happy to replace the alternator eventually, but it looked like it had some life left so for the time being I'm just going to keep an eye out. Put another 50 miles on after the cleaning and so far it's been doing just fine
Looked at my steering and the joints all seem to be in decent shape. Boots all seem pretty fresh anyway. Pondering if I'll do the main ball joints or just the steering first.
I also think I want to move forward with removing the body spacers, but I'll definitely keep the wheels and tires as is (32s stanced out 1")
In no small part because I'm tired of leap/scooting in and out!
I should be able to just cut the hardware 2" shorter I think and clean it up with a die?
Do you want the nice LCE idle adjust screw I just got in the mail with my throttle kit?
No leaks from my PS pump yet, but I'm keeping an eye on it
I'll be happy to replace the alternator eventually, but it looked like it had some life left so for the time being I'm just going to keep an eye out. Put another 50 miles on after the cleaning and so far it's been doing just fine
Looked at my steering and the joints all seem to be in decent shape. Boots all seem pretty fresh anyway. Pondering if I'll do the main ball joints or just the steering first.
I also think I want to move forward with removing the body spacers, but I'll definitely keep the wheels and tires as is (32s stanced out 1")
In no small part because I'm tired of leap/scooting in and out!
I should be able to just cut the hardware 2" shorter I think and clean it up with a die?
I’m all set on the idle adjust screw but thank you for the kind offer. I did the o-ring on mine last year. I’ve used hockey pucks for body mount biscuits before. Worked good!
I’m all set on the idle adjust screw but thank you for the kind offer. I did the o-ring on mine last year. I’ve used hockey pucks for body mount biscuits before. Worked good!
Good to know! Lol. My in-laws have a dog the size of a dinosaur that decided hockey pucks and powder coated bumpers were chew toys, he reduces hockey pucks to powder
Good to know! Lol. My in-laws have a dog the size of a dinosaur that decided hockey pucks and powder coated bumpers were chew toys, he reduces hockey pucks to powder
Stickers arrived! And the LCE throttle kit!
hey, where did you get those underhood stickers? I need some of those.
I have about 200 miles on ot or so, feels like the rings have seated
The first day i remember it felt like it struggled to maintain 60 on a slight hill, now it maintains 70 and it doesn't feel like much effort at all!
And now that I've driven it for a couple weeks (and the tires are the proper pressure ) the steering isn't as bad as I remember it being. All the rubber boots under there look good. It'll stay straight and it's not sloppy, it just has an occasional shimmy I don't like. I'm thinking just the upgraded idler arm and a new stabilizer shock and seeing how that feels.
And probably ball joints. Currently doing ball joints on the motorhome. Im in a ball jointy kinda mood.
I have searched, i checked the FSM, i cant figure out what size bolt I'm supposed to use for the starter (see earlier pic of screwdriver in there)
I've got an undersized bolt and nut in there but that's a bad band aid and I know it. I'd rather not go buy a large assortment if someone knows where to just get the correct bolt.
...... guess the PO used cheap brake shoes!
time for a brake job
I'm happy with my NAPA rear cylinders and non-premium brake shoes.
Watch out for possibility of leaking cylinder after you replace with thicker brake shoes.. Just the nature of the beast, explained on my thread here.
I'm happy with my NAPA rear cylinders and non-premium brake shoes.
Watch out for possibility of leaking cylinder after you replace with thicker brake shoes.. Just the nature of the beast, explained on my thread here.
Thanks for the tip!
Originally Posted by arlindsay1992
The starter bolts are M10x1.25 thread. I'll assume you can figure out an appropriate length.
04-29-2019, 08:41 AM
) the steering isn't as bad as I remember it being. All the rubber boots under there look good. It'll stay straight and it's not sloppy, it just has an occasional shimmy I don't like. I'm thinking just the upgraded idler arm and a new stabilizer shock and seeing how that feels.
