Looks good!

 

Thanks!
It's in!... Almost anyway, the only thing I can't figure out is where the squarer part on the double connector goes... Is it an EGR connection?
(Also I didn't photograph the ground connections, dumb me)

 

Could the square one be your cold start injector connection?

 

Nope, CSI is already hooked up. I was up down and around everything from every angle I could with a flashlight, couldn't find it's mate

The square on it's own, and the circle on it's own both found their home, the circle in the double connector went to the transmission, just can't figure out the square part of the double.



The good news, it cranks!
I left the plugs out and tried cranking for about 30 seconds in two bursts of 15, the oil pressure light didn't go out though. That felt like a long time, how long would you expect it to take?

 

Cranked it till the oil pressure light went away

 

Okay! What’s keft?

 

Installed the radiator, filled it, triple checked everything, and it fired right up!!
No check engine lights, purrs like a kitten!!



Tomorrow I need to set timing and do the valves while hot
... Anything I'm forgetting?

 

Yay!

 

So my list for today is from the LCE suggestions

1. 4crawlers TPS check

2. Run it for 15 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm to break in the cam

3. Set the timing


Then do I need to adjust the valves? Or is that like a first oil change type thing after they're broken in? LCE doesn't mention it in their start up and break in page. I did the cold settings while building, if I can skip doing the hot adjustment today I'm all for that

 

It ruuuuuuns

TPS could use adjustment as it switches to idle very, very close to the hard stop, but it'll have to wait till I replace the thermostat as I can't get to the screws as is

Broke in the cam
Set the timing
Took it around the block and all is good!!

The only issue is the throttle now doesn't want to return to closed, maybe new spring, maybe new bushings?

 

Dashpot adjusted correctly?

 

Think so, will look up the procedure for that

When off it returns all the way to closed, when running I have to push it back by hand or it sticks partially open

Picture time!

 

Rest of the pics I meant to post last night

 

Ive got that same wacky heater hose clamp setup. Must be factory.
Is the screwdriver only temporary?
(just kidding)

 

Lol, yes, I replaced it with bolt and nut that are the same size as the screwdriver... those may or may not be temporary
I need to order a few different bolts, I must've lost a plastic baggie somewhere

Pic 1, the wacky hose clamp is my only leak (it's very slow). Tightening it isn't helping I'll figure it out sometime.

Pic 2, (ignoring the screwdriver)
1. it kinda smells like gas down there, but I don't see any leaks
2. Where does the fuel line bracket thing go? I can't see it going anywhere reasonable, unless I bent it badly during removal/install

Pic 3, I replaced that spring with a stronger one which helped a lot, drive-able now. LCE has a bushing (shaft seal) kit here
https://www.lceperformance.com/22RE-...-p/1061048.htm
but I don't need the set screw, I'll shop around to see if I can get just the bushings cheaper somewhere but I didn't see them in a quick search

I also need to:
clean the grounds (I was lazy at best doing them this time)
get a new windshield fluid bottle and motor
get new battery terminals
rebuild the steering
etc...

 

Other than the nits I need to pick in the post above, I'm very happy. Put about 50 miles on it and while it's still a dog, it always was and always will be, it's much better than before + the rings aren't yet seated.

...
And I'm now reminded how bad the steering was

Steering/front end will get a rebuild now, then I'll hook it up for towing.

For a steering overhaul, most people seem to recommend just replacing everything as parts are cheap and they all have 200k on them

Steering damper
4 Ball joints
Inner tie rod ends
Outer tie rod ends
Pitman arm
Idler arm
Relay rod

QUESTION;
Do I need new knuckle arms?
Are the control arm bushings recommended as well? (Are they a PITA?)
What about axle half shafts?

Any other parts known for wearing out that I should do?

 

I did 4ball joints, 4 tierod ends, checked the damper, replaced the idler arm and swapped the steering box, got it aligned, adjusted the backlash on the box multiple times and I'm still not happy with it. I was blowing around on the highway today on the drive to work. I plan to investigate further and actually rebuild the box.

My dad had a brand new 1986 SR5 extra cab 4x4 in '86 and I remember driving it vividly. The steering felt great. That's what I'm trying to duplicate.

Do you plan to rebuild your steering box? Have you done one before?

 

Drats, I was hoping to leave the steering box alone since the backlash was within spec

I haven't done anything with steering boxes before

I assume you replaced with a rebuilt unit?

Also, was the SR5 you remember totally stock, and are you stock now?

I'm pretty sure the lifting and big wheels puts these steering systems through more hell than people realize.

I toy with the idea of removing the body lift and going back to stock tires... But the tires are brand new... And it does look *really* good