So are there ring/bearing brands to stay away from?

Rings I see NPR and Hastings out there, and saw to stay away from Rock
Bearings i see clevite (looks like probably the best if overkill), king, dnj...

Given the dollar amounts here I'll probably just go with the best. $30 for bearings isn't going to break the bank, and something about putting $7 main bearings in feels like asking for trouble

 

LCE shopping list plus i just ordered npr rings
https://www.amazon.com/Piston-1985-1995-SWT10103-Nippon-Japan/dp/B00LYK5YTC?ref_=mw_olp_product_details
Plus the aisin clutch kit on rock Auto
gonna swing by sears tonight for a honing tool
Still need to find the transmission input seal parts
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Just put in for the 19-22nd off work to get this bolted back together and out of the garage.

Hopefully I can get by with printed FSM pages instead of a hardcopy, those are expensive! If the more experienced wrenchers think attempting with printed pages from the pdf is a recipe for disaster let me know and I'll shell out for one

I think I have everything I need to get it done...

 

Today I got the block cleaned up, crank polished (just cleaned up really), cylinders honed, and main bearings installed, clearance looks good!

I used white lithium on the bearing, and it does spin by hand one handed, but not real easy. I'm assuming that's just cold white lithium grease? Anything to be concerned about?

 

 

Ug, can't get pictures to upload for some reason, all it showed was a clearance of 0.05mm, well in tolerance

Anyway, I thought I saw white lithium recommended by Ted/ENGNBLDR? Also on like half the 22re build threads?

If it makes no difference then I'll clean them off tomorrow and do assembly lube. Just for peace of mind that it spins freely. The FSM just recommends motor oil, lol

 

 

Finally got a pic attached, don't know what was up Friday

So Saturday i cleaned off the white lithium, double checked all 5 clearances, and all 5 were good, reassembled with motoroil, and it spun a bit easier, but about the same. I'm guessing part of it is the cheap HF stand doesn't hold it level. Anyway, i can spin it easily and smoothly by hand, so I readded white lithium and moved forward.

got the pistons cleaned up and re-ringed, checked the rod bearing clearance, looks good, got all the pistons in, and I think i even got them in the right order!

The block got a lick of paint, it looks ok for a $5 rattle can job

Did the rear main, painted the exhaust header, working on cleaning up the valve cover and oil pan

Today with any luck the new timing chain and head will go on!

 

I hope you can post your compression test numbers when you have it running again. I'd just like to see how close to spec they'll come. Thinking of reringing my engine over the winter(or next winter). On the header, I am a big proponent of header wrap. I use is on my Camaro and it's so nice not to have it be 1000 degrees under the hood and not burn yourself on headers when fiddling around under there. Consider wrapping it while you have it off.

 

Will definitely post compression numbers

Also, none of my rings turned out to be broken

 

thats a longblock!
I had hoped to get further yesterday, but i feel thats not bad for 2.5 days of work and never having done it before

 

 

So it'll probably be this weekend before i get the engine in, thinking about lifting it on the hoist and bolting the starter and flywheel on, and cranking it before i put the engine in. This gets oil on all the surfaces, and let's me check oil pressure, compression, check for oil leaks, etc. Before getting it in while it's still easy to fix.

Seems simple enough but I haven't seen anyone do this, good idea? Bad idea?

 

I don't think it's a bad idea, but not sure you'll get the benefits you are looking for.
Oil pressure cranking won't equal running and oil leaks might take a while running to present themselves.
I'd fill the oil by dumping it on the cam with the valve cover off. You can also do a valve adjustment then if you haven't already. Compression check should be possible too.
It's easy to do all this stuff on a run stand with a carbed engine. But you'll be limited by the fuel injection. Can't run it.

 

I wasn't going to get a real oil pressure measurement, just monitor my sensor until the dummy light goes out.
I suppose small leaks will take awhile to manifest, but at least i know it won't puke oil all over the ground from a botched gasket or seal. I have terrible terrible luck with gaskets. Ask my wife's valve covers. Or my thermostat. Or...


I did do the cold valve adjustment already, will need to do a hot adjustment after installing


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Progressing slowly, had school this weekend (and watched the Purdue game)

got the rear main and the oil pan on, and stripped everything off the old block

After struggling with a few studs, and remembering i broke an exhaust stud, I ordered new intake and exhaust studs

Just need to bolt the accessories to the front that go through the timing cover, and then I can dump in the oil

 

Starting to look like a real engine!

Question, on the half Moon seals, they stick up quite a bit, should I trim them flat or use a bunch of rtv?

 

If using rubber half moons, they should look a little oversized. They compress flat when tightening the valve cover. Put a thin bead of rtv all way around them, or they'll definitely leak.

 

Gotcha
i tried putting sealant under them and putting the valve cover on while it dried, when i removed the valve covers they rose back up, so i guess ilI redo them

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That's normal. They don't stay flat permanently until many many heat cycles, I wouldn't worry too much about them. The ultimate way to stop leaks there is to get a set of billet aluminum half moons, but they cost a lot for what they are.