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So since I have the engine out, Im definitely just going to do this once and do it right
so far my list is:
Clutch
Timing chain kit
-chain
-gears
-upgraded guides
-tensioner
-water pump
-oil pump
-cover
Fuel injectors
Piston rings
Valves and seats
Main seals
I'll see how the pistons and bearings look once the bolts i need to get it on the stand show up, and I finally get the head off
The cam looks OK to me, as does the rest of the head that I can see
Looks exactly like how I unwittingly began a full top-to-bottom engine rebuild, but it's always better to be safe than sorry on something you're gonna drive a lot.
Not sure what your plan is for the injectors, but I opted to have the originals cleaned and rebuilt rather than throw in an aftermarket set. In the end it was less expensive ($80 at the same machine shop that did the rest of my engine work) and they work great now. Seeing the before-and-after ASNU test results is cool, too.
The inside of that bell housing is almost as nasty as mine was. Now's the best time to replace the transmission input shaft seal. All that's required is a housing gasket and the seal, pretty much the same job as rear main.
I was going to look into sending the injectors off to witch hunter to get them rebuilt
My plan is still to do a very light hone, stock size piston rings, new valves, seats, and seals, and leave the rest of the internals alone. The cam looks fine to me, and unless the rod bearings I see look like they had a shaving stuck in them I'll leave them alone. Most of the parts in this engine are good to 400K from what I've read, It's only at 180, I'm pretty sure me attempting to wield plastigauge is riskier to the truck than just leaving everything alone.
Got the engine out an on the stand and the head off yesterday, no obvious signs of HG failure, no obvious piston cracks, the #2 piston that is least covered in carbon was also the one with zero compression. Hopefully I'll get the valves out this afternoon, need to find the spring compressor
#2 exhaust valve is open, good eye, will look, guess that's why I have no compression!
i didn't look close yesterday, just pulled it then had to run off
Will take a look, valve must be siezed
Check with Ted at engnbldr to get your rebuild kit and possibly a fully built and cammed head. Cheap and good quality components. And the fully built head with a cam is about the same as a brand new stock one. Ted is a great guy(so is his son todd) and will respond to email almost 24 hrs a day. I got my rebuild kit from him and plan on buying a head when I have the money.
Would happily buy one of teds heads
I'll shoot him an email, but unless things have changed in the last couple days, his website said they're not selling anything for awhile while they move to Arizona
#2 exhaust valve is open, good eye, will look, guess that's why I have no compression!
i didn't look close yesterday, just pulled it then had to run off
Will take a look, valve must be siezed
Bent valve, broken spring or mismatched parts maybe.
Thanks for the input! Didn't realize that, someone have a bad experience with them?
me. i had two injectors stop working within 30 days of getting them back from WH. i ultimately took all four to a local specialty shop, and they've worked fine for three-plus years now.
Thanks for the input all
Been stalled on this, upgraded my motorhome from 30 amp 110V service to 50 amp 220V, and re-did a chunk of plumbing, taking it on a loop of lake Michigan next week
And grad school
and and and, so many excuses
Anyway, I've yet to look at the head in great deal, but I'll probably have it rebuilt if I can find anyone reputable nearby
Gonna send Ted at ENGNBLDR an email tonight, see if he happens to have any heads, or if not if he has a recommended source for buying new ones
me. i had two injectors stop working within 30 days of getting them back from WH. i ultimately took all four to a local specialty shop, and they've worked fine for three-plus years now.
I did did something similar. I found a local shop to r-n-r the injectors on a Land Cruiser. I understand sending them off if your town doesn’t have such a business, but the process isn’t rocket science.
Alright, finally got a look at the bearings, they look like 180K miles and a broken timing chain guide. Crank looks OK
Also no broken rings, surprisingly, pressure loss must've all been in the head
This is all new to me, but my plan of attack after showing it to some people that know a lot more about engines than me is:
-Lightly hone the bores with a handhold drill type
-Lightly polish the crank by hand with emery paper
-Throw in stock size bearings (check with plastigauge)
-Throw in stock size piston rings
And reassemble with the new head (and seals, gaskets, bolts, clutch, blah blah blah)
06-23-2018, 04:21 PM
