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Posted an update to the windshield thread as well, safe-lite should be out on Thursday
Now that I started looking into the EGR, I think I should put it back on. This is not a trail rig, my goal is to go road tripping and camping in it. It looks like a properly functioning EGR will be beneficial at highway cruising speeds.
Not sure how much highway fuel savings I will need to get back $250 for the parts though. Ouch. Anyone want to pull off a perfectly good functioning one and send it to me?
Last edited by magnet18; Feb 11, 2017 at 06:05 PM.
Posted an update to the windshield thread as well, safe-lite should be out on Thursday
Now that I started looking into the EGR, I think I should put it back on. This is not a trail rig, my goal is to go road tripping and camping in it. It looks like a properly functioning EGR will be beneficial at highway cruising speeds.
Not sure how much highway fuel savings I will need to get back $250 for the parts though. Ouch. Anyone want to pull off a perfectly good functioning one and send it to me?
For a truck that sees lots of highway miles, I've read enough from people smarter than me to want to clean up and reinstall my egr system during engine rebuild.
The PO had capped it and I deleted it with block off plates. It didn't cost much to get mine working right again (maybe $40), but a decent amount of work went into it. I pulled the crossover plate at the back of the head and cleaned it out with brushes, picks and carb cleaner. Did the same for the valve itself and then the long straight passage in the intake plenum. Most people think it dumps exhaust gas at the back of the plenum, but it's actually right in front, near the throttle plate. No wonder the thing gets so d@#n grimy! The pintle of the valve was still seized so I shot it with solvent and pushed at it with a screwdriver till it freed, then oiled it. You should get new gaskets, hoses and maybe new hardware (and rtv the valve's right-side bolt into the head, it goes into an open oil passage).
Egr does increase mpg some, but also lowers exhaust valve temps while the valve's open. According to the FSM, it should only open at a specific throttle positions while maintaining operating temp. The modulator and bvsv do the fine-tuning. It looks like "full open" conditions are met when cruising on the highway for awhile at open throttle.
I get people that delete it cause it clutters the engine bay and pours crap into the plenum, but you might be shortening the life of your exhaust valves and seats if you take long highway trips. I'd rather clean the plenum once in awhile than rebuild the head.
For a truck that sees lots of highway miles, I've read enough from people smarter than me to want to clean up and reinstall my egr system during engine rebuild.
The PO had capped it and I deleted it with block off plates. It didn't cost much to get mine working right again (maybe $40), but a decent amount of work went into it. I pulled the crossover plate at the back of the head and cleaned it out with brushes, picks and carb cleaner. Did the same for the valve itself and then the long straight passage in the intake plenum. Most people think it dumps exhaust gas at the back of the plenum, but it's actually right in front, near the throttle plate. No wonder the thing gets so d@#n grimy! The pintle of the valve was still seized so I shot it with solvent and pushed at it with a screwdriver till it freed, then oiled it. You should get new gaskets, hoses and maybe new hardware (and rtv the valve's right-side bolt into the head, it goes into an open oil passage).
Egr does increase mpg some, but also lowers exhaust valve temps while the valve's open. According to the FSM, it should only open at a specific throttle positions while maintaining operating temp. The modulator and bvsv do the fine-tuning. It looks like "full open" conditions are met when cruising on the highway for awhile at open throttle.
I get people that delete it cause it clutters the engine bay and pours crap into the plenum, but you might be shortening the life of your exhaust valves and seats if you take long highway trips. I'd rather clean the plenum once in awhile than rebuild the head.
Thanks for the info, matches what I've read so far. Glad to know it's not too terribly hard
Unfortunately I don't have a valve or anything at all, the previous owner capped everything with delete plates
Looking at new parts on rock auto is where I swagged the 250 number from.
Thanks for the info, matches what I've read so far. Glad to know it's not too terribly hard
Unfortunately I don't have a valve or anything at all, the previous owner capped everything with delete plates
Looking at new parts on rock auto is where I swagged the 250 number from.
Ouch. If you have the money to spend, then it's your call but I'd rather buy a used one off eBay that looked decent and had a return policy. Seen them go for as little as $20. I don't have a spare otherwise it'd be yours for shipping.
Over the 4 years and 60,000 miles with this 4runner, it always got 16-19 mpg city and 19-22 mpg hwy with a capped or deleted egr. I'm sure the rebuilt engine factors in too, but over the past 4000 miles with egr I'm getting 18-21 mpg city and 21-24 mpg hwy. Not a world of difference, but probably as good as a 4x4 5 speed 22re's gonna get. If my numbers seem kinda high, I usually shift between 2-3000rpm and hardly ever top 65 mph even on interstates. It'll go much faster and pulls great at +4000rpm, but that's not really my interest with this vehicle.
Also, how much of the system is left? I'm guessing the modulator and bracket was removed with the valve. Is the original crossover plate still on the back of the head or was it replaced with a flat plate? Bvsv is probably there, hopefully both plastic fittings are intact, and hopefully the metal run of tubes between the head and t-stat housing is there.
Also, how much of the system is left? I'm guessing the modulator and bracket was removed with the valve. Is the original crossover plate still on the back of the head or was it replaced with a flat plate? Bvsv is probably there, hopefully both plastic fittings are intact, and hopefully the metal run of tubes between the head and t-stat housing is there.
not sure, haven't looked that closely in awhile, I'll have to check
Newest toy! Plan to make a new face for the inside of it to replace turbo with battery and delete the automatic transmission stuff.
Also, I am in need of a fuel sender unit from a turbo... that or I have to use a microcontroller and come up with a circuit to convert to whatever this cluster expects. Anyone have schematics?
Feb 11, 2017 | 06:04 PM
