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Dropzone's 1981 Trekker Build-Up Thread

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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 07:49 PM
  #281  
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little recovery operation today

Got a call from my dad that he had buried both his tractors down by his stream. He desribed it as the place i had gotten buried a few times before so I thought great.
Loaded up my recovery gear 5-6 shackles, 4 straps, tree saver, shovel, high lift, and my old 'more' power puller:
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loaded the trekker up, towed it just in case it broke or got stuck too:
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Found the John Deere Buried
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yanked the little mitsubishi tractor out first, it was easy.
The John Deere took a little geometry to due since i couldn't get a straight pull:
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ended up with a ton of straps hooked up to get the Trekker to firm enough ground, first pull in 2.28 low didn't go, tried 4.7, no go. put it in double low and it came out with ease:
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since i was down in the woods did a little stump wheeling:
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Didn't have much time for more, the steaks were almost done on the barbeque..
it was a good afternoon, quick recovery, a little (real little) bit of playing around and a great steak
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 09:38 AM
  #282  
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I hate it when parents get equipment stuck!! lol I got my step father's Kubota (BX23) stuck once. He proceeded to get on and burry it to the axles. In the recovery process we got my then stock Yota stuck (spinning opposite corners) and his Dodge Diesel BURIED! We ended up getting the neighbor with his Kubota to get the tractor out (after getting it stuck too). The next day we went back with the BX and it's backhoe to dig out the Dodge! lol I wish I had pics! It was pretty comical and we left a HUGE Crater by the time the truck was extracted.

Sorry for the Hi-jack. Sounds like you had a good time! I like stucks like that, usually they are more laid back then if I had done it. I've only ever used my winch to pull the Bobcat at work out after it's sunk like that. Go figure!!
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 01:32 PM
  #283  
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nice work unsticking the tractor. looks like a fun piece of property to play on.

Al
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 02:54 PM
  #284  
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Originally Posted by grant526
I hate it when parents get equipment stuck!! lol I got my step father's Kubota (BX23) stuck once. He proceeded to get on and burry it to the axles. In the recovery process we got my then stock Yota stuck (spinning opposite corners) and his Dodge Diesel BURIED! We ended up getting the neighbor with his Kubota to get the tractor out (after getting it stuck too). The next day we went back with the BX and it's backhoe to dig out the Dodge! lol I wish I had pics! It was pretty comical and we left a HUGE Crater by the time the truck was extracted.

Sorry for the Hi-jack. Sounds like you had a good time! I like stucks like that, usually they are more laid back then if I had done it. I've only ever used my winch to pull the Bobcat at work out after it's sunk like that. Go figure!!
no worries Grant, I love a good stuck story. I just figured my dad new that the place he got stuck at was a place to stay away from I must have been pulled out from there in 4 out the 5 Toyota trucks I have owned buried a few of my Baja bugs down there too over the years

Originally Posted by Al's Chop Shop
nice work unsticking the tractor. looks like a fun piece of property to play on.
Al
Thanks Al. They have about 25 acres outside of Oregon City, BeaverCreek runs through the lower part. It usually doesn't dry out till June or so...They just cleared out a bunch of the underbrush to clear up some old trails. Nothing like Brown's camp but fun to screw around on..
Robb
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Old May 12, 2009 | 04:15 PM
  #285  
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not much of an update,
my rear pinion angle kind of sucked after the rear springs were installed, got that fixed (new spring perches), funny how a couple of noises went away
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got some quick release mudflaps mounts made:
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came out a little closer to the tire than I thought...not a good idea to mount them w/o mudflaps..I will get some material to use as a spacer to gain a little more clearance with the tire....

Last edited by dropzone; May 12, 2009 at 04:22 PM. Reason: forgot a pic link
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Old May 14, 2009 | 12:22 PM
  #286  
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Those are SWEET!!! I've been wanting to build some for a while. But havn't been sure how to go about it. I really like how you did that! Hope you don't mind, but I'm probably going to copy the way you mounted them. . .
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Old May 15, 2009 | 01:31 PM
  #287  
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are you running a double cardan joint in the rear?

i've always thought you needed the pinion parallel (or close) to the t-case output when you don't have a double cardan?

Al
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Old May 15, 2009 | 01:35 PM
  #288  
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yesss!!!!!
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Old May 15, 2009 | 06:16 PM
  #289  
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Originally Posted by Al's Chop Shop
are you running a double cardan joint in the rear?

i've always thought you needed the pinion parallel (or close) to the t-case output when you don't have a double cardan?

Al
hmmm, Al, I was always under the impression you wanted the pinion to point towards the transfer case. In the 1000 miles or so since I did the rear springs I went through 2 u-joints. Since the correction I had some vibrations go away. I pm'ed some folks with a lot more knowledge than I have so hopefully I will find something out. You got me thinking.

You are off on Sundays and Mondays? I don't have any plans on monday, maybe I can swing by and check your trucks...

Waggy springs would be cool...
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Old May 19, 2009 | 11:44 AM
  #290  
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Frigging Weathermen/woman/people whatever you call them

I wanna be a weather reporter, if I was as wrong as they are all the time I would have lost my job on the first day...saw this morning that it was supposed to be have way nice...thought cool. Do a tune up and run some seaform through the carb..Get the junk all apart and it starts to Dump

OF course everything is too far apart to pull the truck into the garage...will have to wait for mother nature to quit taking a leak
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Old May 19, 2009 | 03:43 PM
  #291  
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Well the weather finally cooperated and I was able to get the tune up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, oil change) and run some Sea Foam through the vacuum line and through the rest in the gas tank.

Truck has a bit more oomph to it, still needs some 5.29's but definitely worth the hour so it took...need to replace some of the little stuff like PCV, VTV, clean or replace the EGR valve. some of the little stuff was looking kind of ragged after 28 years...
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Old May 19, 2009 | 04:08 PM
  #292  
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Originally Posted by ocdropzone
I wanna be a weather reporter, if I was as wrong as they are all the time I would have lost my job on the first day...saw this morning that it was supposed to be have way nice...thought cool. Do a tune up and run some seaform through the carb..Get the junk all apart and it starts to Dump
I hate how that happens, and it always stops the minute you get everything under cover. at least they're predicting sun for the next few days, lets hope they aren't wrong again!
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Old May 21, 2009 | 05:22 AM
  #293  
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Originally Posted by ocdropzone
Originally Posted by Al's Chop Shop
are you running a double cardan joint in the rear?

i've always thought you needed the pinion parallel (or close) to the t-case output when you don't have a double cardan?

Al
hmmm, Al, I was always under the impression you wanted the pinion to point towards the transfer case. In the 1000 miles or so since I did the rear springs I went through 2 u-joints. Since the correction I had some vibrations go away. I pm'ed some folks with a lot more knowledge than I have so hopefully I will find something out. You got me thinking.
Hi...I'm John...if you don't mind me throwin' in my 2¢ worth:...

Wikipedia discusses the math models of UJs - from what they say, it would seem that the issue of having the differential & Tcase shafts parallel applies when your drive shaft itself is a Double Cardan Shaft. Keeping the driving & driven shafts in parallel would keep a constant velocity and reduce certain vibrations....
If you have a Double Cardan Joint (it doesn't look like it by the picture), this would provide constant velocity transmission, compensating if the driving/driven shafts are out of parallel.

But there are limits to this: each UJ, depending on its size & component clearance, will bind above a certain angle. In that case, a little velocity variation is OK as long as the joint runs more smoothly. For instance, maybe the front joint is OK running with 7° angle between t-case shaft & drive shaft, no binding. But the back joint could be binding above 5°, so you'd need to bring the diff shaft in line with the drive shaft a little. Now your t-case and diff are out of parallel and you get a little variance in the velocity, a little vibrations, but you just made the rear UJ very happy where it was throwing bearings every 500 miles before.


by the way...Sweet Trekker!

Last edited by Injohneer; May 21, 2009 at 05:28 AM.
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Old May 21, 2009 | 01:53 PM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by Injohneer
imits to this: each UJ, depending on its size & component clearance, will bind above a certain angle. In that case, a little velocity variation is OK as long as the joint runs more smoothly. For instance, maybe the front joint is OK running with 7° angle between t-case shaft & drive shaft, no binding. But the back joint could be binding above 5°, so you'd need to bring the diff shaft in line with the drive shaft a little. Now your t-case and diff are out of parallel and you get a little variance in the velocity, a little vibrations, but you just made the rear UJ very happy where it was throwing bearings every 500 miles before.


by the way...Sweet Trekker!
that was exactly my thought. while parallel is not possible with lots of lift due to working angles, its still better to be closer to parallel then pointing at the t-case.


hey robb, i'm moving at the end of the month... but after that we'll have to get together. i will have a 3 car garage to work in, plus if i need the extra space the shop is only 2 minutes away. can you say...wrench-o-thon!!

Al
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Old May 21, 2009 | 06:00 PM
  #295  
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Originally Posted by Injohneer
Hi...I'm John...if you don't mind me throwin' in my 2¢ worth:...

Wikipedia discusses the math models of UJs - from what they say, it would seem that the issue of having the differential & Tcase shafts parallel applies when your drive shaft itself is a Double Cardan Shaft. Keeping the driving & driven shafts in parallel would keep a constant velocity and reduce certain vibrations....
If you have a Double Cardan Joint (it doesn't look like it by the picture), this would provide constant velocity transmission, compensating if the driving/driven shafts are out of parallel.

But there are limits to this: each UJ, depending on its size & component clearance, will bind above a certain angle. In that case, a little velocity variation is OK as long as the joint runs more smoothly. For instance, maybe the front joint is OK running with 7° angle between t-case shaft & drive shaft, no binding. But the back joint could be binding above 5°, so you'd need to bring the diff shaft in line with the drive shaft a little. Now your t-case and diff are out of parallel and you get a little variance in the velocity, a little vibrations, but you just made the rear UJ very happy where it was throwing bearings every 500 miles before.


by the way...Sweet Trekker!
John--spreading some knowledge is always welcome. You are right, I am not running a double cardon joint. I have an extra front DS that may be come a donor to add to the rear..just need a little $$ so I can get the work done.
Thanks

Originally Posted by Al's Chop Shop
that was exactly my thought. while parallel is not possible with lots of lift due to working angles, its still better to be closer to parallel then pointing at the t-case.


hey robb, i'm moving at the end of the month... but after that we'll have to get together. i will have a 3 car garage to work in, plus if i need the extra space the shop is only 2 minutes away. can you say...wrench-o-thon!!

Al
Congrats on finally finding a place. Would be great to give you a hand wrenching...
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Old May 22, 2009 | 04:51 PM
  #296  
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Originally Posted by Al's Chop Shop
while parallel is not possible with lots of lift due to working angles, its still better to be closer to parallel then pointing at the t-case.
follow-up thoughts on this - What's wrong with the cyclic velocity produced by the nonparallel shafts? Answer - we're talking 2 higher velocity quarters and 2 lower velocity quarters in a full revolution of the drive shaft - at high RPM this would have a similar effect to driving your axle with an impact wrench.

So at low, crawler speeds it's probably not an issue as much as the Ujoint binding under high torque. At highway speeds, well, depends how fast the shaft is rotating...the effects would be more serious.
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Old May 22, 2009 | 05:54 PM
  #297  
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I am gonna have to do some more research on the theory of u-joints etc.
seems to me the u-joints (entire shaft for that matter) are gonna be traveling at the same RPM's as the output shaft.

hopefully at the first of the month I can get the double cardon joint installed. just know that with the pinion angle I have now, it seems to be a happy medium
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Old May 24, 2009 | 08:10 PM
  #298  
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Talking filled out the wheel wells

I was cruising craigslist friday night during my lunch and found an add that read: want to trade 35's for 33's. Looked at it and said that fits me. the guy wanted to swap his 35x13.50x15 Toyo MT's for a set of 33x12.50x15's Toyo's--hmmmm, I thought, exactly my tires
I emailed him, got a response right away that said come on up to Hood River.

Met him sunday afternoon, we agreed to a straight across trade, he pulled this wheels and tires off his very sweet '72 FJ-40 with a 2005 Ford Explorer V-8..I would love to have his FJ, very nicely done.

1.5 hour drive home and I had the tires mounted on the trekker. I think they fill the wheel well nicely. No need for wheel spacers now, the tires came mounted on some 15x10's
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driving them around I found that I will need to have the tires balanced. I did not notice any appreciable loss of power by my butt dyno but a hill test I am sure will say other wise. I am happy the trade worked out, $25 in gas is all it cost me
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Old May 24, 2009 | 09:04 PM
  #299  
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Some people have all the luck
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Old May 24, 2009 | 10:55 PM
  #300  
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I feel bad but I just now got done reading this entire build.
Incredible work man, gets me motivated to start working on the '85 that I will soon have.

I was debating on whether to just go with some 15x8's and leave the wheel spacers on or go with 15x10's.
I'll be running 35x12.50-15 BFG Mud-Terrain KM2's.

Looks awesome man,

Fink
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