an Aussie does seem more up my alley (spelled $$$$$) what exactly did you mean by ratchet?

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/locker-faq-43572/

Read through that, should give you all you want to know, and then some.

 

Good info. Ive got an 85 yota xcab, whats the max amount of lift needed/recommended for maximum performance? I know alot of guys go with chevy springs. is there any modification involved with the chevys, or what? whats the best combo of shackles, springs, and shocks for maximum performance? and as far as new axles go, i know that dana 44s and 60s are popular. do those bolt straight from a ford or chevy, or is modification involved? basically, should i just find someone who has already set it up for a toyota, or could i take them from an older ford or whatever? if someone could point me straight on all this, it would be awesome. thanks

 

I don't think anyone can answer that question.

The max lift is going to be up to you. Generally, the rule of thumb is to get the minimum lift to fit the tires you want to run.

Chevy springs require welding of new spring perches. There are kits out to modify your rig to fit dana axles. They also require welding.

 

Can someone explain/point in the direction of details about twin sticks, dual cases, and 4.7 transfer case gearing. Specifically the situations these items help in most, what it takes to incorporate them into your specific vehicle, pros/cons etc? I've read pseudo explanations about all 3 but never seen them layed out together. Thanks.

 

Twin sticks:

Lets you shift 2WD<->4WD and HIGH<->LOW range independently, so 2H, 2L, 4H, 4H all possible, vs the stock 2H, 4H, 4L gearing. Advantage, 2L is handy, one case is when you need to make a tight turn and have a front locker.

Dual cases:

Gives you added low range gearing, so 4High, 4Low and 4LowLow. Assuming a typical 2.28:1 low range (high range is 1:1), you have gearing of 1:1, 2.28:1 and 2.28*2.28:1 (5.2:1). Low range = go slower and more torque to the wheels. Dual cases also give you a "free" 2L gear ratio, front case in low range, rear case in 2H and you get stock low range in 2WD. And you get 15 forward speeds.

4.7 gearing:

Same as above in relation to lower gearing, 4.7:1 is lower gearing than 2.28:1, and if you put 4.7 gears in a dual case, you get 4.7*2.28 or 10.7:1 in LowLow range (note that you would of course multiply the above gear ratios by the transmission gear ratio and the axle gear ratio to get an actual "crawl ratio" or how many times the engine spins for every tire revolution). Other advantage of a 2.28 and 4.7 dual case is you get 20 forward gear ratios, since there is no duplication of ratios:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechI...l#Transmission

Advantages of lower gearing? Less likely to stall the engine (in a manual transmission). Go slower to let the tires grab the rocks, less likely to break things with fast spinning tires bouncing around. Gives you more control, more time to make steering changes, etc.

See link below for a QuickTime clip of what ~200:1 overall crawl ratio looks like:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CA-4/Ima.../snowcrawl.mov

This is idling in 1st gear, low-low range (2.28:1 and 4.7:1) w/ 5.29 axles and 33" tires, effective speed is ~30 feet/minute or 1/2 MPH, and yes, I hopped out to shoot the video.

Or see some of Marlin Crawler's videos below:
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFk9yVwVLrE
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3iG4WumX3Y

 

Awesome, thank you for laying it out like that. Do you have to be locked in the front for any of these to really be advantageous?

 

If you leave the front hubs unlocked, then you just have 2WD no matter what the transfer case is set to, so in that case you have 2Low and any other gearing options available without dual cases or twin sticks or anything. But hopping in and out of the truck to lock and unlock the front hubs takes a lot more time than just shifting a gear lever on the t-case.

And yes, in my '85, with both cases in low range and in first gear with the front hubs unlocked, I do have ~200:1 gearing in 2WD and have used that. It is very handy if you are trying to back into a tight spot or something like that. One trivial "feature" of that low a gearing is that you actually can get the vehicle into gear without the clutch. Just gently push the gear shift on the trans. forward into 1st and let the synchro ring drag pop the gears into mesh and off you go. Granted you can start in gear in that range too.

 

No, but its nice.

As for advantages, 4crawler layed it out nicely.

As for incorporating:

4.7 gearing= no modifications to body or drivelines. Simply remove your existing transfercase (assuming its gear driven, if it is not, you will need a gear driven case, and if you don't have the correct tranny, you will need an adapter. All of this is layed out on the websites of vendors who sell these products). Remove the transfercase, install the gears, and reinstall the transfercase.

Dual cases, either stock or with one stock and one 4.7:

Requires a second hole to be cut if you use conventional shifting mechanisms. Triple shifters are available by special order on pirate, or by your own design.

You will need a new crossmember, and must modify your drivelines, as you gain about 6.5 inches, give or take, on your drivetrain.

Twin sitcks can be installed on any case that has the J shift pattern. No modification to body needed, but you will have to remove the crosslink pin from the tcase, which generally requires removal of the case. Very simple instal.

 

This is great information. Thanks posters!

How can i tell if my transfer case is gear or chain. is there a doorjamb code or is it always the case for certain trannies?

If i wanted to set up dual cases and was looking for a case at the pick and pull how could i tell?

 

Gear driven typically on the earlier (22R/22RE) 4-cyl. engines w/ manual transmissions, chain driven on V6s and automatics.

- http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...ase-bible.html

 

Great thanks!

So if i pick up a used case I would just need an adapter plate, a crossmember, possible speedo cable extension and to shorten my rear drive shaft?

 

That is most of it, longer front shaft, extra hole in the floor, etc.:
- http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/gu...-installer-old

 

Sorry, I meant having a locked front diff, not hubs. Thanks again for the explaining guys.

 

Locked front diff makes no real difference in gearing. You can have all the above gearing and shifting options with open/open, open/locked or locked/locked axles. Twin sticks really help if you have a locked front axle since turning in tight quarters in 4WD with locked front axle can be interesting. Popping the t-case into 2L would let you make the turn easier (as long as you don't need the traction of 4WD).

 

Ike i'd like to thank you for all the posts you've had in this thread, it makes me feel better that a member started this thread 2 years ago and is still helping out newbies like myself. Now heres my question. i live in pennsylvania, all we have is mud. the first mod i want is an aussie locker in the rear of my 98 V6 SR5 4runner. secondly i want BIG tires. right now i have destination A/ts. i was thinking 35s what mods do i need in order to achieve that size?

 

I put 35's on. However, I think you'll find even 35's a bit small for mudding. Seems most like a lot of power and 44's.

However, before putting a 35" mud terrain on my own truck, I already had 4.88's in the diffs, ARB air lockers front and rear, dual transfercases, a custom 3link rear, full flatbelly, tons of armor, etc...

So, my experience may not be totally applicable, as my truck is not all that stock anymore, except for the front end.

I had to trim my upper a-arms down:

cut up:


rewelded:


I also had to cut out my front firewall, and pound it back, and reweld, to clear at stuff and turn:



My computer no longer fits in the stock location on the passenger side, and is currently zip tied up out of the way. My fuse block, on the driverside, also does not fit, and it zip tied up. Both of those problems will be remedied this spring.

I also had to cut out the rear fenders a bit.

So, to answer your question: for mudding, especially if you want to run actual big tires, (I wouldn't call 35's big anymore. 44's or 48's are big. 37-39 is pretty normal), I suggest you look at a solid axle swap, with chromo axles, lockers front and rear, and I highly suggest a full floating rear end conversion, though its not totally necessary.

Here is a pic of my rig at near stock height (rear is a little high) with the 35s:

 

Hey Ike, You got a build of either bumpers? Or anymore pictures?

 

Sorta,

The front, sliders, and the rest is included in my latest build, in my sig.

The rear is here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...-build-131770/

Should be some other pics in my sig line thread, and around here of the truck out wheeling that have some good shots of both.

 

Yeah, I missed page 3 of your "morph" build thread. The pics of when you put the 35s on are what I was hoping for. Thank you