Thanks for all the help guys. That trick works famously! Any tips on making my clutch change easier and quicker?

 

hey just got my first truck a few months ago, and all this ^^ is really helpful but what gearing ratio would any of you recommend for me? I have an '86 automatic, 4" lift on 32x11.5x15, currently doesn't have a turbo, but was made with a turbo, so everything is set up for one. minus the paint lift rims and tires the truck is stock. the previous owner just wanted a pavement princess that looked nice, so I saved it from a boring life.

 

Well you don't technically NEED a new gear ratio however if you would like new gears, I would recommend 4:88 because of your automatic.

 

When I get time and money to start tweaking mine, hopefully starting in spring. That's when I am planning on on a clutch change and possibility a tranny rebuild. Any suggestions on that? I was also thinking of taking out the engine and cleaning it up and maybe beefing it up a bit. It only has 138k on it right now so I'd hate to swap it out when it still has a lot of life left in it. Also I was wondering if anyone new of a good place for aftermarket parts in WI.

 

ok so im really new to this whole locker thing i have a 89 22re 4 runner and im not sure what kinda of lockers i should i get i know there are a thousand diffrent types it is my day to day driver however i do quite a bit of off road anything from hill climbs dirt mud snow i want to make it do as good as possible offroad with out causing to much of an issue on road

 

Depends on budget and how much compromise you are willing to do to have a locker to match that. My Spartan Locker is great and cost effective but it has DD quirks. A selectable locker doesn't have on road hassle but cost 4 or 5 times more.

Either way any locker in your rear diff will be noticeable on the trail.

 

ok cool so should i just lock the rear or should i lock the front to? im not sure really how much of a difrance it would make and what kinda quirks for dd do you have im willing to deal with some quirks but i dont want to be destroying my truck on a dd baisis either

 

For a daily driver the rear will do. If you ever do the front you will definitely want a selectable locker.

The autolockers or lunchbox lockers like what I have make noise. Enough that people will look your way and they bang and crack sounding like stuff is breaking. It's not though its just one of the quirks.


Do you drive in snow much? If in 2 wheel drive it can make the rear end kick out. Fishtails and doughnuts in parking lots will become more awesome.


I only drive on snow and ice right now in the North so I just keep it in 4x4 so don't notice the locker at all right now.

I got a Spartan Locker. Good price and on the trail boy did I ever notice.


If you lock the front with an auto locker you get the quirks in your front end. You don't want to winding up in the rain in a corner. I think it can make steering a pita too.

 

ok and the auto lock basicaly locks up when you need it? so i wont have as much extra tire wear? ya a spartan is what i have been looking at for about 300 bucks.

 

No its locked all the time but can ratchet around corners, mostly. You will get extra tire wear in parking lots. It will lock and let go at odd times with a bang. You can feel it when it does it.

They can be annoying but that feeling fades quick on the trail. I've had mine almost a year and I wouldn't take it out now.

 

I put an ARB air locker in my 2006 Tacoma 2 years ago. It is a sturdier differential than the original equipment. It works great. I have a little over 20k on it. No noise. No problems. Definitely more expensive, but worth the peace of mind. I will do the front some day.

 

Great info!

 

96 4runner. I was driving in 4wd on slushy road going approx 40 km/hr the heard a loud clunk thought a tire blew front wheels locked up stopped dead in my tracks .If this is a transfer case issue can it be fixed ? Or do you have to replace ? What do you think?

 

My guess would be a CV joint in one of the front axle shafts or maybe the CV or u-joint in the front drive shaft. Easy enough to check out the half shafts, spin them by hand and see if they move freely without flopping around too much. I once had a CV joint seize upon my front wheel drive VW one time, it locked up that front tire and spun me into the ditch. When I tried to reverse out, the CV joint grenaded and left me stuck as I had no power to the front wheels.

 

Drives fine in 2wd front wheels locked when put into 4wd

 

Does it roll with hubs locked in 2wd? Or hubs open in 4wd? I don't know if xfer case would affect only front end in 4wd, I'd think it would lock up both ends.

 

Rolls fine in 2wd when put to 4wd won't move

 

See if you can spin the front drive shaft with it in 2H and/or also see if you can spin the front axle shafts with the front tires in the air. If all that moves freely, the front drive portion of the t-case might be messed up.

 

Thanks I will check that in the am

 

so i just got a set of super swampers and one of the tires has no tread in the center i was told its called a hot cut and is suposed to be better for wheeling so i was wondering if any one knows anything about that i have been trying to look it up on line but all i can find is info on how to do not what the reason is behind it.