Total noob here but from what I understand if my '96 4runner came stock with a rear locker its toyota's e locker right?

 

Correct

 

currently i have completely stock suspension on my 98 SR5. i have 16 inch toyota wheels(which i'd like to try and keep if possible) i'm open for suggestions on tires since i have no brand preference, i just want good performance for a decent price. also if i need some sort of suspension lift where is a good place to look? i looked at the toytec ultimate lift but thats $1,000. treat me as if i know nothing since i basically dont haha

 

Curious. A lot of guys use bj spacers and relaxed torsion bars to increase travel. Would it be advantageous at all to relax the torsion bars if you had a bracket lift?

Also, what's the difference in a Detroit Locker and Aussie/Lock Rights? I see Detroit also has an EZ Locker that looks like the other lunchbox types, but what is the Detroit?

 

Yes, in fact the guy who designed the spacers initially did it to put on his 4 Runner with a 4" lift:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...cer.shtml#FAQ4

A Detroit "Soft-Locker" is a full carrier replacement, while the L/R, Aussie, EZ styles are the lunch box type that just replace the center gears. The Soft Locker is supposed to be a little smoother operating and since it replaces the whole carrier it it supposed to be somewhat stronger. The lunch box types are easier to install and typically cost less.

 

I was asking about JUST using the bracket lift and relaxing the torsion bars without the use of bj spacers. Possibly combining this with 2-3" leaf springs in the back rather than 4". Would it make the most sense to use the spacers/relaxed bars in addition to the bracket and just use 4" springs in the back?

So ARB's and Detroit Soft Lockers are both carrier replacements, but the ARB is selectable and the Detroit automatic?

 

Sure, you can adjust the torsion bars anywhere you want, up or down. If you have a bracket lift already and don't want to remove it, then that would work. The cost of a new bracket lift would be many times more than the cost of ball joint spacers.


Correct.

 

I totaled my '97 4runner limited with the factory rear locker this past valentines day, and it only had 86k miles (in a salvage yard in springfield, mo if interested), needless to say im heartbroken and i had one hell of a wake in its honor.

my question lies in replacing it, i'm torn between a '99-'00 limited with the factory locker and full time 4wd and center lock, or an '01 with the gee whiz active-TRAC and Vehicle Skid Control then eventually put in a rr locker.
im totally new to the modding scene and know very little about tinkering, my stock '97 was great and the locker saved my ass many occasions. does anyone have input on how effective the A-TRAC and VSC are? would they be worth sacrificing the factory locker and having to get one installed?

additionally, if anyone is knows of a '99-'01 limited for sale, im looking to get one ASAP

thanks all

 

Personally, I don't find any of the traction control stuff useful at all. I've only ever driven an FJ-Cruiser with it, but the traction control doesn't hold a candle to lockers, as far as I'm concerned.

I know of a few people in the FJ Cruiser world that like the traction control. They do okay with it, but they have a rear locker as well. They still struggle where dual lockered rigs have no issues, but it does seem to be a little better than open.

Get one with a rear locker. If you need more traction, pony up for an ARB in the front.

 

x2 for AxleIke's post

ATRAC is a helluva lot better than open, but IMHO has the following issues:
- too herky jerky
- requires too much throttle
- not very predictable

"Real" lockers don't have those issues. Yes, both AxleIke and I are spoiled by front/rear ARB's in our trucks, and not a lot of time in FJC with the electronic doodads. The FJC owners I have talked to, even the ones that generally praise the ATRAC, admit to the above 3 areas.

 

jus curious and not sure where to ask but does a 20r head really give you better horsepower or is it a bad ideah my friend has racing pistons and a 20r head and says its way better

 

and is a carb gonna run better than efi im thinkin bout pullin it out and just goin with a carb any input

 

I would not replace efi for a carb
unless
you dont have too smog the truck in your state
you never go up or down a steep hill
you never change elevation where you wheel
you only mud bog in a strait line
you only use the truck as a race vehicle with all of the above included

so no dont put on a carb, cant tell you about the head swap sorry

 

Hello yota nuts! First post. New member, but I have been reading about 6 hours a day since I joined a few days ago.
Okay. I read this whole thread and just want to be sure.
I have a '94 EXT Cab 4x4 V6. There is a 3" body lift on it that it had when I got it and will be removed post SAS. Maybe be replaced with a 1" body lift just for the extra clearance. I will decide after I see it done.
I am going to be putting a 4" TG SAS on it in the next couple of months. I already found a set of axles from an '85 4runner rebuilt for $300 for the pair.
I NEED tires now. I am also going to put dual ARB lockers on it and re gear to 5.29. And plenty of armor. Sliders, bumpers and all.
Question is, do I park it until all is done, or can I get the rear ARB and gears and squeeze 35's under it and still have a bit of fun while getting things together for the SAS? I don't want to buy tires twice ie; 33's now and 35' in a couple months.
Okay to go but no 4 wheel drive until gears are identical front and rear, correct? It is being built for a toy, NOT a daily driver. Basicly I want it to take me where I shouldn't be.

 

This was a great read. Very Helpful = Thanks. I have a completely stock 2006 Tacoma 2.7L 4x4. After getting stuck this winter with one wheel on dry ground, I had already decided that my first upgrade is an ARB129 air locker, purchased yesterday. While the Diff is apart, should I change anything else? I'm getting new side carrier bearings. Should these be OEM, or are there better bearings I should look at?

 

You are correct that you must only use 2wd if you regear only one diff.

If you are going with 35's, just get them now, and leave the body lift on until you finish the SAS. In fact, I'd just get the 35's and run with stock gears so you can retain 4wd, and not bother with the gears and lockers until you are ready to do both ends.

 

Never a bad idea to replace all the bearings (pinion too), but that may be overkill. I like overkill.

OEM will be Koyo or Nachi. Timken is what will come with the ARB. Those three are, IMHO, the best in the business. If it says something by those three manufacturers on the side, you are golden.

While you are putting in the locker, I HIGHLY recommend considering a Regear. The install will cost you the same coin, but you won't have to do it twice after you get a hankering for bigger tires. Just a thought.

 

Is there a good write up on dual case installation? Specifically regearing the crawl box & drive shaft modification? Thanks.

 

Best possible source for the dual case stuff is Marlin. They have full tear down and rebuild intstructions.

You generally don't regear the crawl box, usually you do the transfercase. Again, for the install, refer to Marlin's site.

It can certainly be done, its just that much more torque that your input shaft has to take.

As for the driveshaft mods, not sure what you want to know? Its pretty straight forward:

You measure from the top of your transfercase output flange to the top of your diff input flange, write that down, then measure the bottom distance too. Then, take the shafts to your local driveshaft shop, and they chop down your rear, and retube your front.

Good time to get the shafts retubed to .095 or .120 wall while they are doing it.

 

That's exactly what I was wondering about the driveshaft actually, thanks.

As far as the tc's, I still need some clarifying. To do a dual case setup with 2.28 in the front and 4.7 in the rear, I would need to regear my stock case to 4.7, then add another case's box between mine and the transmission? Making sure the donor box hooks up to my transmission and purchasing an adapter to plug the donor box to my transfer case? Is that correct?

Thanks for all the clarifying you do on this thread man!