The first gen 4runners used the same suspension as the pick up trucks. The issue there is that the 4runner is heavier out back, and thus, the rear springs sag over time.

Interestingly, Toyota botched the coils on the rear of the 2nd gen runner too, which was not the same as the trucks. Got it right with the 3rd gen.

 

So you said classic issue... Anything special?

 

Ok to clear this up for the 3rd time folks.... Classic issue with sagging rear ends on 2nd gen 4 runners = the fact that the factory rear coils put in there cannot handle the weight. So it sags. Other generations of 4 runners apparently do not have the same classic issue as they do not have those same coils. Any sagging from leaves is a different issue.

DID I CLEAR THAT UP GUYS? Because some of you seem to keep asking it! :jessica:

 

Grantimus

To clarify, all 4 runners from '85 to '95 tend to develop a rear end sag over time. The '90-'95 models have coil springs in the rear and there are solutions out there but I'm not real familiar with them as I don't have that gen of truck. For '85-'89, like yours and mine there are a number of options.

1) the ZUK mod - search it here and you will get a number of threads.
Here is ZUK's site, scroll down the page to the bottom left corner and there are a number of links to write ups of the mod.
http://gearinstalls.com/

2) replacement springs - there are a number of sources and everyone has an opinion about each of them. There are the usual suspects like Skyjacker and Rough Country for lift springs as well as Old Man Emu (OME). Here is the thread of mine before I lifted and straight axled my truck:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/n...stalled-48400/
Downey that I used is now out of business but I think (don't know for sure) that Northwest Off Road bought up most of their stock and ideas. You'll find a wide range of opinions about NWOR if you search them here. I don't have any personal experience with them but the gist I get is great products/hit or miss customer service. The Old Man Emu have a good rep. If you go this route, follow the manufacturers instructions closely. My Downeys required the Toyota overload to be added to the pack. Invariably when I encountered someone unhappy with their Downey springs, they hadn't done so.

3) Add a leaf (AAL) - Search the net. You'll find 'em.

4) Chevy leaves - Replacing the Toyota stuff with Chevy 1/2 ton leaves. They are supposed give really great travel and soft ride. They would require some fab work though. There are plenty of FAQ's about it on the net if you search. I'm not a fan of this but I won't elaborate since I don't want to start a fight and crap up this good thread. feel free to PM me about it though.

1 & 3 are the cheapest but don't really replace the worn out springs. For many though, it is an excellent solution. The AAL tends to be a rougher ride than the ZUK.

HTH and good luck.

Oh, the OME #s are cs009r and cs010r. The 010 is a heavy duty and gives a bit more lift. However, it's actually designed for additional load carrying, not lift. Hence the additional lift comes at the cost of ride quality. If you run with a lot of weight in the truck at all times though, it could be a good thing.

 

ok, so I know I'm not exactly a newbie anymore, and this may be the wrong place, but I figured that there are enough of you super-knowledgeable people subscribed to this thread that you might be able to help me out quickly. I am replacing the rear pinion oil seal on my 1991 4Runner, with the 3.0. I need to know how to find out what size ring gear I have, and what the torque specs for the pinion shaft nut are. I already bought the seal, because the part number was exactly the same, whether I had the 7.5 or the 8.88" ring gear, and the part was the same size. I already looked for the supposed ID tag on the back of the carrier, is there somewhere else I can look to find out, or did all '91 4runners have the 8.88? thanks again guys, and please don't hurt me too much for posting here.

 

should be a gear code on the sticker on the inside of the door jamm. Driver's side if i,m not mistaken. http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html after you find the code then check out this site you'll see what i mean. And to be the token dork i'll say it first SEARCH!!! Just kidding but i asked the same question a few years ago and got the search or die reaction from most members. after that they pointed me to that page. Along with gear codes that guy has lots of good info for a toyota owner to read and i believe 4crawler's page has the same info as well and good reading if you want to learn some stuff.

 

i hope this is the right section for this question
havnt seen it answered

do you need a body lift to accommodate rock sliders??

 

No you do not.

 

Assuming you have a 4wd, you have a 7.5" front, and an 8" rear diff. Guaranteed. 8.88 is not correct.

The biggest issue is not screwing up your pinion preload. In order to preload the bearings, you have a crush sleeve inside the diff. The pinion nut holds everything together. Without proper preload, the bearings may fail. Now, that isn't to try to scare you off, as its not too hard to do, but be sure to read through the directions a few times, and be sure you've got it down.

I have had good luck with changing mine out, and following the torque specs found in a haynes manual. Now I have the FSM, and I would follow that. I HIGHLY recommend that you download the FSM for the 2nd gen 4runner from this site:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

Also, purchase a new pinion nut. I think they are all of 3 bucks or something. Its not worth having that loosen back up because the old one lost its stake. You will lose your bearings in short order and likely toast the whole diff.

 

Great read Ike! For what I wheel around here, the ground clearance is the bigger concern.

I will be installing lockers at a later date.

Which axle would you recommend doing first or would you save up and do both at the same time?

Is ARB the best(only) choice for a Daily Driver, or would a Detroit fare well?

 

I'd lock the rear first. Detroit's are fine if you don't mind a little chirping on corners. They'll eat tires a little faster, but not much. I think a detroit is only a bit cheaper than an ARB though, no?

 

About 300 less + no air compressor last I checked. However the install is more indepth than a lunch box, isn't it?

 

I found Detroits for about $350ish per, plus the savings over a compressor/tank.

I really like what I read about Air Lockers and will definitely be going to them sooner or later so I may as well save a bit more and add ARBs when I regear later down the road.

Thanks Ike!

 

couls longer spring hangers help the sag issue? or even chevy leafs?

 

by longer spring hangers I am going to assume you mean longer spring shackles. yes it will level you out, however the flat spring will still be there.

chevy leafs would be a better choice as long as the leafs are in good shape but will net a pretty good lift and will most likely lift your butt too high in the end without adding something to the front to compensate.

 

what kind of lockers should i get for my 92 yota 4x4 p/u? im having my wife put 31-10.50 on it next paycheck cause im curently stationed in south korea. and it needs new tires anyways but this a family owned truck and i want to do it right can any one please help me? im really getting frustrated with looking through google lol

 

Depends on what type...Most will agree ARB is the way to go. Me I don't have that kind of cash to drop so I'm going for the lunchbox style. I'll be getting an Aussie this spring if all goes well.

 

thanks ill deffinatly look into those man. now what about gears?

 

Considering I'm not sure of the motor or the trans I really can't help there too much. My 92 22re w/ 5spd does just fine with 31x10.50's, it wasn't too happy with 33x12.50's though. So if you stay with the 31's your stock gears should be alright.

 

yea sorry about that its a 22re with auto tranny i want to do bigger tires later on maybe the tallest of 35's so i just dont know what i need to work with that