You will be fine with either a 30 or 31. Neither will rub, and both will fit on a stock rim.

235 75 is effectively a 29x9.5. You may notice just a small amount of power loss with the 31's, but it won't damage the vehicle at all.

EDIT: Didn't see 4crawlers post.

 

I know you said that suspension is that last thing you need to worry about. But my 4runner is an 86 with origional rear shocks that are all saggy. Should i get those fixed or should i wait?

 

well, I'm new and posted a question on other thread which I was told not to so I'm here with the newbees.
I bought an 85 4 runner 4 cil. with 4" susp lift, 33 MT's, msd box, baja front bumper, piaa lights.
I can get parts for cheap on a 95 4 runner v6 before it goes to the junk yard. I'm deployed in irak so before this guy dumps the truck I want to get a list of parts that I can get for mine.
future plans: spool locker in back, high steer, upgraded brakes, 3" body lift with 2" motor tc and fuel tank lift.
I'm going for lift. so, what about replacing the 4" susp lift for a 7" susp lift, maybe a skyjakcer lift system but I dont like the idea of running blocks, are there any 7" lift springs without the need of blocks?

 

As I replied to your e-mail, try Alcan Spring. Contact info. on my page:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...gerRearSprings

They'll be more than happy to bend up whatever length/lift spring you want.

 

Get the front brake calipers, master cylinder, booster, steering box, rear end housing w/ brakes, rear V6 diff, and any other part you might use like rear bump stops (w/brackets). I don't know about the 7" springs, but I do know that a lot of people are doing lower builds even on big tires (37-40), for stability.

 

This is not my first yota the first was an 85 runner with a 3 ish lift and 32's but it had old steering and was a stick. After 4 rigs(75 bronco , 70 blazer, 71 bronco 85 runner and others) with a stick I found a hard too find 85 truck extended cab efi with crossover steering (yaaaayeehaa) a good front bumper and winch and an auto gear box the gearing is 4.88 with lunchbox lockers front and rear running 33 s and it had some crappy welded on tg rock guards. I am am just about too weld in my chevy hangers. I have checked the front and I have a static 22.5 inch eye too eye for the shocks but would like a 1/3 up and 2/3 down type shock ... Cant find it any where any recommendations? I have looked at all the forums seems I need a 14 in too get it done well. I have a stack of 10 inch and 8 inch shocks but know I will max them out. Even the blisteens are not quite right. I crawl rocks(Iknow this does not have the gearing yet). I seams too have about a 3ish + front lift and I will set it level with the chevys or lower in the rear. (using stock location for rear shocks). Worried about the front first????How low can I go with the front lift and still make the crossover (trail gear) steering work be for I start hitting the pan or other parts?????
thanks whitie

 

I had around 3-3.5" of lift when I first had low crossover steering installed:


It was a tight fit keeping the drag link from hitting the frame at full stuff and rubbing on the springs at full droop.

 

Thanks much 4crawler I have read your entire site twice if not more. Is there a measurement for lift, top of the axle too bottom of the frame? I know a stock EB Bronco is 7 inch for such! Is there a yota inch number for stock hieght???? Or maybe stock springs have one inch droop from eye too eye? or lay flat????I need a quesstimate so I can start. I want the hysteer(that is installed) too fit without hitting too much and want too know if I need too clearence pans and such?? Thanks

 

Stock height is listed in the FSM. I believe it's measured from the ground to the middle of the leaf spring hanger bolt (not shackle). Both front and rear on the 85. Of course this measurement is affected by the tire size as well. Most people just use a reference from the wheel rim to fenderwell lip. Not quite sure what that is on them though. And I don't believe that is listed in the FSM.

 

Yep, 13.5" - 14" from the lip of the front fender to the top of the rim (15" wheel) is about stock height:
- http://toyota.off-road.com/trucks-4x...ent-19258.html

 

4crwaler, I always hesitate to reference that page as IMO that measurement is for the 89-95 body style. The 84-88 are a different body style. I remember a while back making a thread asking the ride height differences between the 84/85 and 86-88 trucks and I don't believe I was convinced if they were the same or different. But I am pretty sure the ride height is different between those and the 89-95 ones.

 

It seems to be fairly close for the front. If you look at the early and later IFS trucks/4Runners, same front suspension, so pretty much same ride height. And while I don't have a stock '85/solid axle measurement, one would assume Toyota designed the ride height of the IFS trucks to match that of the solid axle trucks. On my '85, I took some measurements when I bought the truck ('96) w/ slightly taller than stock tires and stock susp. and I think the front fender measurements are pretty close to the 13.5" - 14" value (I did not measure that number at the time) if I work back to that number from what I did measure.

 

Yeah I think that is all really a gray area, I however should have used a different term then ride height though. What I should have said is fenderwell design. I almost wanna say the 84-88 fenderwells are larger cut, but don't quote me on that. But I guess even a 1/2" difference cosmetically is gonna make a big impact visually. Not so much on actual ride height and geometry though.

 

Thank you all .....looks like I will have too do the guesstimation math with factory #s( fsm only gives overall hieght with factory tires which could measure????. My fenders are cut by PO so fender lip measurement will not do well. I was hoping for a more definite answer, top of strait axle too frame, or eye too eye factory spring droop sitting level with factory shackles? I thought for sure this would be a fact somewhere. Fender lip too 15 in wheel is an adhoc number, as all fenders are different and all 15in wheels are pushed in or out depending on tire width ...and the hypotonuse sp will mess up all measurements.....????
Thanks

 

i just traded a 12 pack for a 1980 4x4 yota.ive got about $200 into it and it runs good now.has some small bugs,brakes,fuel feed line,vacuum lines.id like to make it more trail worthy without throwing paychecks at it.i was thinking about welding the rear spider gear.good or bad idea??i was also thinking about add a leafs all the way around to eliminate the sag.cant find front add a leafs though.the bed on it is also rotted out.should i replace it with a flat bed that a friend of mine has or run no bed??

 

Welding the diff is often frowned upon but for a budget wheeler it can work out pretty well. From what I've been told, if you are going to weld your diff you should weld the side gears to the case instead of welding the side gears to the spider gears.
As for the bed, I would opt for the flat bed over no bed at all. Good luck!

If you weld the side gears to the case (the part that the ring gear is bolted to) then is will not hurt the housing (the part that the ring and pinion go inside of). It does however pretty much ruin the "case" for future use like if you wanted to install a lunch box locker.

I agree with mightymouse - wheel it as is first and see how you like it. Of course the big down side to a fully locked diff is tire squal when turning on asphalt.

 

keep in mind if a welded rear fails it completely trashes the entire diff. If you want complete lock-ability and its gonna be a complete rail rig, just spool it.

 

Good read I like the idea of working on drive train. But I would do bumper, sliders winch then lockers then a lift and tires. that way even if your stock you can still get yourself out of hairy spots. just my .02

 

I will be asking mods to delete this thread as it has so much disinformation in it that it no longer serves a purpose.

 

I second that motion.

Or at least have it cleaned up...but maybe its just easier to start a new one.