http://www.trail-gear.com/locking-differentials

 

Thanks for the link that helps a lot. But can i put spools in the front and rear or do i need another type of locker in the front (truck is offroad only).

 

Technically you can put them front and rear, but up front a spool will make steering difficult especially on hard, high traction surfaces. Also will put a lot of stress on the front axle birfields, so you would probably need to upgrade those. An auto locker helps up front since it will usually unlock when you are trying to turn sharply and allow the front tires to turn sharper. Or with a spool, the other option is to hop out and unlock one hub when you need to do some tight turns.

I run an ARB up front and most of the time, I leave it unlocked to get better steering, but sometimes in deep snow and mud, I'll lock the front end and unlock the rear end and in those slippery conditions, I find the front steers better locked solid.

 

Ok thats exactly what i needed to know thanks for all your help .ill be glad when i can get this project done and start wheelin.

 

I crawl rocks and go slow I am thinking unsprung is the best (aka holds the tires down) I see pro crawlers use water of shot in there front and rear tires too hold cg center of gravity down??????

 

Was there a question? I don't understand.

You make a true statement though, that if you are concerned about rolling over, water is the best way to get more unsprung weight. In general, you want to decrease sprung weight, as you say, to keep your COG lower. Water in the tires also has the added benefit of keeping the tires on the ground during climbs. Often, pro racers will run different weights front and rear, or even nothing in the rear, to keep the front end from going airborne during steep, full throttle climbs.

Shot is used for a different reason. Its to try and balance large tires. Shot doesn't change the COG much.

Water isn't really a great idea unless you trailer. In addition, water makes an already heavy tire heavier, so large axles and beefy drivetrain components are recommended.

Good luck!

 

Good to know OP. I've built up two different 2nd Gen Tacomas but am still researching these older pickups. I'm looking to purchase something in the early 90s this summer. Problem is, around here there are very few, and the ones that I have found are in BAD condition, Fair at best. I talked to a guy about his 94 today but it is fairly rusty underneath. So my new to YT question for the day is:

If I do buy this truck, or another in bad condition like it, what are the most pertinent components to replace or refurbish?

When I do purchase I am looking at investing quite a bit into making this thing "like knew" so to say. I want to replace everything for new eventually, suspension, wheels, tires, interior, seals, plugs, fluids. . . What's first priority?

Thanks

 

86yota

I had 33's and 4.30 gears and it was sluggish. No passing on the highway and lost milage. I just regeared to 5.29's and threw in a Spartan locker. Worth every penny to run the right gears for your tyres.

4.88 for 33's and 5.29 for 35's.

Give those guys a call and they will help. I'm also a complete noob so check out my build thread to see how easy swapping out your diffs really is.

I got two complete diffs from East Coast Gear Supply. Super helpful guys and the locker was only $230.

 

First priority would be whatever you need to make the truck run properly and safely. Sounds like you don't have a lot of options, good luck!

 

So AxleIke i've got a question for you, first off great piece of advise. I am only 16 and sure enough I want my rig looking "cool". I think that is just a phase. I do plan on crawling it however I am keeping it IFS. I like your order of operations but when you say no lift because it'll where out axle related parts sooner. Sounds 100% true but I want my body a bit higher off the ground. I took my first crawling trip with 31s and I kept falling on my butt every time I came off a rock. So obviously putting in 33s will give me more clearance for the axle but I feel like I would still hit my butt coming off a rock. My plans were going to be BJ spacers and new coils, possibly extended shocks, in your opinion, is that necessary?

 

I need some help. I have 35x13.50 and I have 3 inch leafs in my garage but I want 6 inch overall. I was thinking of reversing the shackles and maybe blocks (not BL) but than we have the front IFS. Dont know how to get 6 in the front without spending a lot of money. If you have any suggestings or ideas please PM me or just post on here.
Thanks

 

Not gonna happen.

 

Wait what?
What do I need to do?? Do you have prices and sites to get the parts?

 

Why do you want to lift it 6"?

 

Because I have 35s.

 

I fit mine with a 3" body lift 1.5 ball joint spacers new longer coils and shocks. I might also trim some sheet metal at the rear and mine fit just fine. There are better options that I will go with later but I can wheel mine now just fine just can't do anything too crazy.

 

Haha alright well I need some advice.
I have 3 inch leaf springs for the rear and IFS, right.
Than I have 35/13.50/15
Im trying to get 4 to 6 inches of lift. (I dont like body lifts)
I was thinking 3 with the leafs a couple with reverse shackles and maybe 1 to 2 inch with blocks under the leafs and on top of the shackle
But now Im stuck with the IFS.
Maybe Ball Joint Spacers? That will add a inch or 2. I heard cranking the t bar is bad for your rig.
So I need some answers and Ideas. Im stuck, what should I do?

Heres the truck

 

IFS lift options are bracket lift, Blazeland, Total Chaos (or other) long travel, or solid axle swap. Blazeland and bracket lifts are the cheapest at around $1k each and SAS and most long travel kits will cost closer to $2-3k.

Ball joint spacers were designed to provide down travel, not lift, and cranking the torsion bars will wear out your steering components pretty quick.

 

You want cheap body lifts are cheap and to get six inches of just suspension will be expensive no way around that. I'll be keeping mine until I SAS the rig.

 

Okay so i have 3" rear leafs and 3" body lift.
Now how do I level the lift??