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Newbie Modification Information

Old Apr 29, 2012 | 02:01 PM
  #301  
AxleIke's Avatar
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Originally Posted by runs-on-4
for off road use you want as little lift with as big as possible tires to keep your center of gravity low.. if you plan on going to the mall with those 35s do a body lift and save your self some cash... and as far as "leveling kits" youre not going to get anywhere near the lift you want . sounds like youre going for looks more than performance. do you have gears to go witht those 35's?
^this.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 02:04 PM
  #302  
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Originally Posted by YotaBeast191
No I just need a lift for now to run the 35's im 16 so its going to take a while to save some money up cuz my job is not very good paying. right now it is for looks intell I get some cash. And ya my dads best friend is a mechanic so hes helping me with shop time and stuff. I found a deal on 5:29's and I think thats what I want. I found a kit for 400 bucks. I just need to know what one to get. theres 2 of them, (4" with 2.5" rear u-bolts) or (4" with 3.25" rear u-bolts). I have a 1989 ex cab. So how do I know the u bolts... Sorry im a noob!! But thanks for your help. My dad dont like yotas, he has a ford with 3k king coils. You can fly the thing. But still thanks a lot.
You have all the information you need. You can either buy the lifts above, or buy ball joint spacers for 100 bucks, and crank your torsion bars. Your choice. This is simple, don't make it harder than it needs to be. As for which lift to get, if you get a 4" front, you want 4" in the rear. If they are only selling you ubolts and not the blocks, you might as well just buy a block set that matches the front. 5.29's are overkill for 35's unless you have an auto. Since it sounds like this is for high school, I wouldn't worry too much about gearing.

Last edited by AxleIke; Apr 29, 2012 at 02:09 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 11:50 AM
  #303  
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From: Colorado
Ok I am new here, so first of howdy! I have two questions. First, how do you up load a photo for your profile. Second I have an 87 4runner with IFS ( I have an axle to install at a later point in time as she is my DD) I have made all the mods you recomend above. Lockers, armor, drive train, ect. But while doing all this work my brother (he is a redneck) removed my sway bars and told me I don't need them and that I would get better flex with out them. Now I thought sway bars helped keep the body from rolling while cornering. What are the pros and cons of remving the sway bars on an IFS Runner?

Last edited by BADGER1ONE; Jun 4, 2012 at 11:51 AM.
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 12:40 PM
  #304  
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From: Fraser Valley, British Columbia
Originally Posted by AxleIke
5.29's are overkill for 35's unless you have an auto. Since it sounds like this is for high school, I wouldn't worry too much about gearing.

I don't know it sure is nice being able to pass on the hwy with my 5 speed. 33's on 4.30 gears was sluggish. Going up to 35's and having proper gearing is awesome. Plus my spedometre is back to accurate.



For the dude above, you can get disconnects for the rear and front sway bar. You want to at least keep the rear in for the hwy.


I'll tell you tomorrow what mine is like without the front. I just sheared bolts getting it off so it's staying off up front and I have disconnects for the rear I am putting in.

Last edited by Red Wagon; Jun 4, 2012 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #305  
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From: Vegas baby
My 92 Toyota 4x4 dlx ex cab came with an automatic and i'm trying to convert it to manual so i'm looking for all bracketry and pedal under the dash so i can install a clutch pedal?
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 11:36 AM
  #306  
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Hey guys im new to YT but i was wondering if it would be a good idea to modify the fuel pump bracket out of my parts truck to fit in my trucks fuel tank. i would have to cut about an inch and a half off and weld it back together. the reason i was thinking about doing this is the part from the dealer is about 150.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 07:25 AM
  #307  
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From: Central, Wa
Originally Posted by stew
Hey guys im new to YT but i was wondering if it would be a good idea to modify the fuel pump bracket out of my parts truck to fit in my trucks fuel tank. i would have to cut about an inch and a half off and weld it back together. the reason i was thinking about doing this is the part from the dealer is about 150.
I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as the mounting holes on the top matched. Also make sure the depth is the same. You didn't see if you had a template to go off etc. but I know if you go too low or high you could have a clearance with the bottom pan or possibly hit your sender/run out of fuel.
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 02:07 PM
  #308  
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From: Redmond or
Great info you help me save a lot of time.
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 12:44 PM
  #309  
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AxelIke thank you for the info i found it very helpful. I have a question to anyone willing to answer or anybody who knows. I have a 1998 T100 and im looking to replace my stock front bumper with an ARB bumper coming off of a 2005 tacoma. I'am wondering if it will fit and be as easy as the install is for many others just ordering off the web. I have done my measuring but I first wanted to check with the people that will really know, any info is helpful.

Twoplanker07
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 01:00 PM
  #310  
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Unlikely to be a direct fit if the bumper uses the factory bumper mounting hardware. On the T100, the bumper attaches to the side of the frame w/ 2 bolts per side. On the later model Tacomas, the front bumper attaches to 3 forward facing studs on each side of the frame.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #311  
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hey guys
im in the middle of my sas and rear lift on my vw tdi powered 86 pickup and i was just wondering how are some best ways to mount the rear shocks?
thanks for the help in advance
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 05:26 PM
  #312  
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4runner noob

I made a phenominal purchase with my 4runner. I bought it after I had surgery and the biggest draw for me was the height and price. I don't know much as far as it's history except whoever had it before me took real good care of it. Recently it has been taking longer to start in colder weather. I live in WI so this sucks. This weekend I'm replacing the plugs, wires, and fuel filter. I may end up replacing the fuel pump as well but unsure of its location. I've heard it's accessed under the rear seats, and I've heard it's in the tank. The manufacture date is nov 1990 if this helps. Any insight is appreciated.
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 05:34 PM
  #313  
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Originally Posted by silverdragon608
I made a phenominal purchase with my 4runner. I bought it after I had surgery and the biggest draw for me was the height and price. I don't know much as far as it's history except whoever had it before me took real good care of it. Recently it has been taking longer to start in colder weather. I live in WI so this sucks. This weekend I'm replacing the plugs, wires, and fuel filter. I may end up replacing the fuel pump as well but unsure of its location. I've heard it's accessed under the rear seats, and I've heard it's in the tank. The manufacture date is nov 1990 if this helps. Any insight is appreciated.
So I am terrible with diagnosis and I cannot figure out how to use an OHM meter but one thing you could do is pull your Cold Start Injector out of the plenum and put it is a plastic bag or coffee can and see if fuel shoots out. During a cold start, if no or little fuel sprays out, then you know it's something to do with the CSI or CSI time switch. However I could be completely wrong and the CSI could be no where near your problem.
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 05:43 PM
  #314  
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Well before I get too far into the fuel pump I wanted to change the plugs and filter. I don't know when they were last changed. I don't have access to a shop so wanted to do what I can in a parking lot. However without taking anything a part, I can tell little to no fuel gets to the engine for about 10 to 15 seconds. Also sometimes after only a few minutes of being off it takes a few seconds of cranking.
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 05:51 PM
  #315  
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I think you can jumper the fuel pump in the diagnosis box. I think it's F+ and B? Don't quote me on that, but if you unfold a paper clip and stick it in those ports it'll "turn the fuel pump on". So jumper it when you believe it's going to be a hard start and see if it makes a difference.

If I am incorrect, i'm hoping a seasoned guy will correct me or tell me to shut up and go sit in a corner.
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #316  
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Either way I knew she'd be a project, but for $1000 and little to no rust I couldn't pass her up. By the way, where is the CSI located? This is my first "truck" I've owned in my life, usually was cars but due to knee issues...
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 05:59 PM
  #317  
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Fuel pump test jumper:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

See if that affects the slow starting. If so, not the pump. Pump is in the fuel tank, 1st gen 4Runners have an access hatch for it under the rear seat, but the 2nd gens do not as I recall. Drop tank to access it.
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 06:00 PM
  #318  
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That's dumb
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 06:12 PM
  #319  
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Hey 4crawler can I pick your brain for a sec? You say that if jumpering the fuel pump turns the pump on and you starting gets better, your fuel pump is NOT the issue? Are you saying that the pumps do not engage intermittently therefor the COR is not telling it to engage? I really hope that all made sense!!!
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 06:25 PM
  #320  
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thanks alot of good ideas to keep in mind , it gives me a place to start , now i just have to find my 2nd gen xtra-cab truck to build! thanks for your knowledge!
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