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Apr 24, 2012 | 05:20 PM
#281
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 2
From: Fraser Valley, British Columbia
My truck sits ass end high. I don't mind one bit and find I have more clearance around my front fenders compared to the rear. In fact I might trim some sheet metal at the back tyres to better clear my 35's. The only issue I had up front rubbing wise was the black plastic skirt under the chrome stock bumper near the wheel well. Two minutes, maybe less with a sawzall fixed it. While my rear clears I might find it rubs under flex if and when in install disconnects for the sway bar.
I kind of like the PitBull stance of my 4Runner. If you are trying to stay cheap you will have to make compromises. The only real way to get significant lift up front from what I understand is long travel kits which cost about as much as an SAS job.
I'm a noob too so if any of this info is incorrect someone please point it out. I still have loads to learn but i am getting there.
I kind of like the PitBull stance of my 4Runner. If you are trying to stay cheap you will have to make compromises. The only real way to get significant lift up front from what I understand is long travel kits which cost about as much as an SAS job.
I'm a noob too so if any of this info is incorrect someone please point it out. I still have loads to learn but i am getting there.
Last edited by Red Wagon; Apr 24, 2012 at 05:22 PM.
Apr 24, 2012 | 08:41 PM
#282
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,464
Likes: 6
From: Arvada, Colorado
This is my old truck:
35x12.5's, ZERO lift. Stock Toyota alloys. It requires tubbing the firewall, but it is a very cheap way to get 35's on a truck.
Yotabeast, just put on the ball joint spacers, and tub the fenders or put on a body lift. Blocks are a bad way to go. You'll wear the steering parts out, but you will be able to sit pretty level.
35x12.5's, ZERO lift. Stock Toyota alloys. It requires tubbing the firewall, but it is a very cheap way to get 35's on a truck.
Yotabeast, just put on the ball joint spacers, and tub the fenders or put on a body lift. Blocks are a bad way to go. You'll wear the steering parts out, but you will be able to sit pretty level.
Apr 24, 2012 | 08:44 PM
#283
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,464
Likes: 6
From: Arvada, Colorado
So AxleIke i've got a question for you, first off great piece of advise. I am only 16 and sure enough I want my rig looking "cool". I think that is just a phase. I do plan on crawling it however I am keeping it IFS. I like your order of operations but when you say no lift because it'll where out axle related parts sooner. Sounds 100% true but I want my body a bit higher off the ground. I took my first crawling trip with 31s and I kept falling on my butt every time I came off a rock. So obviously putting in 33s will give me more clearance for the axle but I feel like I would still hit my butt coming off a rock. My plans were going to be BJ spacers and new coils, possibly extended shocks, in your opinion, is that necessary?
Apr 25, 2012 | 06:08 AM
#284
You will still hit the back end no matter how high you go. bigger rig=bigger rocks. You aren't driving a jeep, a 4runner has a tail, and you will drag it. Invest in a solid rear bumper. Ball joint spacers with new coils will sit the back end low. You will need lift coils. Extended shocks are recommended.
It requires tubbing the firewall, but it is a very cheap way to get 35's on a truck.
Apr 25, 2012 | 08:56 PM
#285
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Bend Oregon
Can someone tell me the easiest way to get a 3 inch lift in the front without buying a lift kit? I have a IFS. I already have 3 inch in the back by adding a leaf. Now I need to gain 3 in the back. Than I am going to put a body lift on it. Please help me. Thanks
Apr 25, 2012 | 09:02 PM
#286
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...cer.shtml#FAQ2
Problem is you'll have a very rough ride as there will be little if any down travel in the front end, so you'll FEEL every pothole in the road. But have heard of folks doing that for a lift. You'll probably do better to keep it under 2" in front if you plan on driving and off-roading the truck.
Apr 25, 2012 | 09:08 PM
#287
Apr 26, 2012 | 08:59 AM
#289
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
AxleIke, thanks for this write up for noobs like myself- I have a 3rd gen bone stock and would love to add at least one locker without sacrificing on road ride quality (family mobile). In your opinion, what is the cheapest locker that
would meet my needs? Thanks!
would meet my needs? Thanks!
Apr 26, 2012 | 11:10 AM
#290
AUSSIE locker
Apr 26, 2012 | 03:45 PM
#291
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Bend Oregon
No thats not what im saying. The only lift kit I can find is 2 inches. Thats small I need to clear 35's and yes I know you dont need a lift to clear 35's but that looks like garbage. What does a leveling kit do?
Apr 26, 2012 | 03:57 PM
#292
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 1
From: Oregon, USA
IFS lift options are bracket lift, Blazeland, Total Chaos (or other) long travel, or solid axle swap. Blazeland and bracket lifts are the cheapest at around $1k each and SAS and most long travel kits will cost closer to $2-3k.
Ball joint spacers were designed to provide down travel, not lift, and cranking the torsion bars will wear out your steering components pretty quick.
Ball joint spacers were designed to provide down travel, not lift, and cranking the torsion bars will wear out your steering components pretty quick.
Apr 26, 2012 | 04:08 PM
#293
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Bend Oregon
Apr 26, 2012 | 04:40 PM
#294
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 2
From: Fraser Valley, British Columbia
BIM a mechanical locker is the cheapest but they change the way it drives and you can hear it click. Its not as bad as some people say. I have a Spartan locker that I got from east Coast Geat Supply for $230. The Aussie Lockers are pretty much the same but always seen to be on back order.
BMcEL what issue do you have with ball joint spacers? I've had zero issues with my 1.5 inch spacers. Mind you I also have not cranked my torsion bars which I bet after some reading is the cause of some issues for people.
BMcEL what issue do you have with ball joint spacers? I've had zero issues with my 1.5 inch spacers. Mind you I also have not cranked my torsion bars which I bet after some reading is the cause of some issues for people.
Last edited by Red Wagon; Apr 26, 2012 at 04:42 PM.
Apr 26, 2012 | 04:57 PM
#295
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 1
From: Oregon, USA
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...runner-250313/
What I was told by almost every reputable shop in Central Oregon was that it was a liability issue due to the steering geometry changes and nature of the part itself. It just makes the insurance companies uncomfortable...so much so that even my offer to sign a release of liability, stating they were in no way responsible if anything happened as a result of the ball joint spacers, was denied by almost everyone. They wouldn't even accept a complete release.
When I finally found a place that would do an alignment on it (mom & pop shop), I didn't have to provide a signed release, but they couldn't get the damn thing in line. Not even with the torsion bars relaxed (frame's straight as an arrow). It was close, but not quite in spec.
I wound up removing the spacers and I can honestly say I don't miss them. Never had an issue with the CVs, but I also had the t-bars relaxed to a reasonable level and left the bump stops alone.
Some people like them, some people don't. I still have mine laying around somewhere...first $50 takes them.
When I finally found a place that would do an alignment on it (mom & pop shop), I didn't have to provide a signed release, but they couldn't get the damn thing in line. Not even with the torsion bars relaxed (frame's straight as an arrow). It was close, but not quite in spec.
I wound up removing the spacers and I can honestly say I don't miss them. Never had an issue with the CVs, but I also had the t-bars relaxed to a reasonable level and left the bump stops alone.
Some people like them, some people don't. I still have mine laying around somewhere...first $50 takes them.
IMO, cranking the torsion bars with ball joint spacers is a bad idea, as well as excessive cranking of the t-bars alone. On top of the CV and alignment issues, the spacers aren't really designed to provide lift, just a little extra travel. You also run into issues with premature wear on steering components due to the added angle of the tie rods in relation to the relay rod putting excess upward force on the entire assembly (idler arm included). I bent two idler arms pretty easily and destroyed my tie rods in about 10k miles when I was running a conservative t-bar crank and spacers.
Case in point, ball joint spacers are for travel, not lift. At stock height and with stock bump stops, they're ok.
Case in point, ball joint spacers are for travel, not lift. At stock height and with stock bump stops, they're ok.
Apr 26, 2012 | 06:05 PM
#296
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 2
From: Fraser Valley, British Columbia
Wow thanks for that info dude. I'll have a look at mine when I get back from the mine I work at and see if they are causing any problems. I've not had any issue with getting an alignment done so at least there is that.
I knew they didn't give me any lift already just a bit more travel but really what good is a whopping inch if it will destroy the front end. I'll keep them for now as I have a spare 1st Gen that I'm about to pull apart for parts. I think quite a bit will be compatible with my 2nd Gen.
If I run into issues I will photograph the damage and post it up.
Cheers bro.
Oh and to that guy who is lifting his truck we where helping before. Get a panhard drop bracket. I have not got one yet and my driveshaft is about 10mm away from my gas tank. My axle is pulled to the passenger side and I have just noticed before I flew back to site that my sway bar links have been bent a bit...... I'm ordering one as soon as I get home.
I knew they didn't give me any lift already just a bit more travel but really what good is a whopping inch if it will destroy the front end. I'll keep them for now as I have a spare 1st Gen that I'm about to pull apart for parts. I think quite a bit will be compatible with my 2nd Gen.
If I run into issues I will photograph the damage and post it up.
Cheers bro.
Oh and to that guy who is lifting his truck we where helping before. Get a panhard drop bracket. I have not got one yet and my driveshaft is about 10mm away from my gas tank. My axle is pulled to the passenger side and I have just noticed before I flew back to site that my sway bar links have been bent a bit...... I'm ordering one as soon as I get home.
Apr 26, 2012 | 06:53 PM
#297
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 1
From: Oregon, USA
I knew they didn't give me any lift already just a bit more travel but really what good is a whopping inch if it will destroy the front end. I'll keep them for now as I have a spare 1st Gen that I'm about to pull apart for parts. I think quite a bit will be compatible with my 2nd Gen.
Apr 26, 2012 | 07:03 PM
#298
for off road use you want as little lift with as big as possible tires to keep your center of gravity low.. if you plan on going to the mall with those 35s do a body lift and save your self some cash... and as far as "leveling kits" youre not going to get anywhere near the lift you want . sounds like youre going for looks more than performance. do you have gears to go witht those 35's?
Apr 26, 2012 | 09:24 PM
#299
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Bend Oregon
No I just need a lift for now to run the 35's im 16 so its going to take a while to save some money up cuz my job is not very good paying. right now it is for looks intell I get some cash. And ya my dads best friend is a mechanic so hes helping me with shop time and stuff. I found a deal on 5:29's and I think thats what I want. I found a kit for 400 bucks. I just need to know what one to get. theres 2 of them, (4" with 2.5" rear u-bolts) or (4" with 3.25" rear u-bolts). I have a 1989 ex cab. So how do I know the u bolts... Sorry im a noob!! But thanks for your help. My dad dont like yotas, he has a ford with 3k king coils. You can fly the thing. But still thanks a lot.
Apr 29, 2012 | 02:00 PM
#300
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,464
Likes: 6
From: Arvada, Colorado
Crank down the torsion bars as far as they will go. Buy balljoint spacers. Simple.
