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Ok first question / Idea.
As an apartment dweller I have challenges others don't.
I need ( would like to) clean all the oil,grease,grim of my cylinder head. I was told by the guy (Piston and Ring in Washington Nc) that i need to remove the cam and rocker arms from the cylinder head befor thay can pressure test and laten the head if need be.
The head is off the truck.
And I oiled up the block top and cylinders and covered it with oily rags, so it will not rust ( I hope). Would WD-40 be ok to spray on the pistons and block and prevent rust until i can get the head tested and back on?
Will this hurt the inside parts? I can dispose of the used solution safely. Or should I just go to the carwash and blast it with the engine high pressure cleaner?
I want to get the Water/Oil combo out before i send it in.
I am going to just clean it as best as I can with shop towels then clean it with a nylon paint brush and brake cleaner. From what I understand a car wash/ pressure cleaner can mess up stuff. I have foaming engine cleaner but I don't think i should use water. I hear the valves can rust.
Then I will scrap it with a plastic gasket scraper and coat it wd-40 Does anyone see anything wrong with this plan?
use something stronger, like purple cleaner and douche it at the car wash (hot) don't forget to let the stuff soak in.. but still remove the cam and rockers. wd-40 is perfect protectant, and pretty harmless, though you want to clean it off before going back together. i have used it for years daily to clean and protect tools in an environment laden with calcium chloride (used on dirt roads, and eats chrome in no time, even rusts metal in an hour or 2) and other bad chemicals. that is actually it's main purpose. "Water Displacement- formula #40" is how it got it's name for use in the military.... just like duck tape IS actually duck tape, not duct tape, because it was invented to seal ammo boxes with duck-like water repellent properties... but i digress.. a hot tank wash when they check the head would be a better cleaning job, and less mess for you.
i haven't read that before. maybe someone else can chime in. only reason i've barely hot tanked anything is i do almost everything but boring and planing in-house, but i've had other aluminum heads hot-tanked and milled.
... Also the manual from 86 says not to do hot tanking on my head. Has the tech changed from 86 so its safe now?
Back in the day ('86? ), "hot tank" meant heated Sodium Hydroxide (lye) solution. Not bad for cleaning cast iron, but due to the very high pH it will quickly etch through (and eventually dissolve) aluminum. So I really doubt you could find a shop with such an old-school "hot tank," instead it's more like a big dishwasher using something a little more benign (sodium silcate comes to mind, but most of this stuff is proprietary). It wouldn't hurt to ask if your shop's "hot tank" is "aluminum safe."
Note that all of these "washers" use water solutions, and are finished with a clean water rinse. So don't worry about using water on the head as long as you can leave it in the sun (or work it over with a heat gun) to dry it off.
So pH is the problem? Absolutely. And Purple Power is safe? Well -- no. Purple Power is a 1-5% solution of Diethylene glycol monobutyl ether. A pretty good solvent, popular for stuff like this because it has a VERY low health risk (that's a good thing). But Purple Power has a pH of about 13!! So as long as you spray it on, scrub it, and hose it off, you'll be find. But DON'T let is soak over night! Or even for a few hours. (And use gloves - I prefer the nitrile ones.)
I see all kinds nickel based, graphite based, copper based, lead based, teflon based, and aluminum based anti-seize materials. I have no idea what to use.
I want to use it on my new cylinder head and spark plugs. Do I need different types. Or can I buy some copper high temp stuff like this Permatex - Copper Anti-Sieze Lubricant and use it every where from head bolts to the intake manifold?
I use the copper stuff for my spark plugs. I feel just about any anti seize has got to be better then nothing. I do not use any anti seize when installing the Intake.
Use oil on the head bolts as specified. I generally use copper antiseize on exhaust and brakes only and nickel on other specific parts, otherwise mostly just "advanced " antiseize on just about everything. for spark plugs, I use the antiseize stick and only remove them cold.
Seen you asking a question about knowing what generation of trucks there are. Toyota started the 4Runner after the trucks so it is a generation off plus the 89 4Runner and truck bodies differ.
Trucks
79-83 1st generation
84-88 2nd generation
89-94 3rd generation
95- and up I don't know where the year change.
4Runners
84-89 1st generation
90-95 2nd generation
96-02 3rd generation (I think 02 was the last of the 3rd gen runner then they went with a 4th generation) I think the 4 runner is actually up to a 6th generation but could be wrong on that.
The different generations applies to 4x4. Toyota actually made a two wheel drive that was called a Stout and I know it stopped in 78 but not sure when it started but it is two wheel so it is not referred to as a generation.
If you see someone saying they have a 3rd generation two wheel drive truck, technically they are wrong but it is understood they are talking about a 90-95 truck.
To be honest I don't know what a lot for the gaskets are used for yet. Also is the Gasket silicone sealant a good one , or should I buy a different one? I lack a lot of knowledge on some of this stuff.
I don't use gasket sealant for the complete gasket. It should have it in the head gasket. I use the orange sealant the goes on the corners of the block and timing chain cover. You don't want to forget to add it as it will leak.
You have a two piece gasket for the timing chain cover. The water pump gasket is easy to see where it goes to. Valve cover gasket is the ones I can think of off of the top of my head. A square gasket for the back of the head. I don't think I have ever gotten the rubber seal for the bottom of the pipe underneath the intake manifold. I just go to the part store and they have a box with rubber gaskets in various sizes so I just get one from them. Some of the oval gaskets go to your water pipe connections. Intake and exhaust gasket.
When you install the timing chain cover gasket, I forget which side or maybe both sides, it will be exposed until you hook up your water pipes.
You will have a gasket for the bottom side of the valve cover. No one ever installs them, I think I went thru my excess gasket kits a while back and threw away 4 of those. You wont need it.
Some of the extra gaskets that come in these kits are also for the 22r motor. They just add all the gaskets for both styles of motors.
Things just keep getting worse and worse.
I will have to see what kit to buy probably off amazon but I don't know the damage untell i get it apart to see if things are damaged below.
The really bad part is I probably snapped it off when i put the wedge in. I thought it was just a little bit lose but not broken all the way off. I was hopping it could get it done this weekend. And in a few weeks do the timing chain.
I guess its all or nothing now.
Bracket:
Timing Chain Gouge, Really Deep: (What do I do about this?)
A new timing cover can be bought for about $50. I would wait until I got the cover off and see how bad it looks at the bottom of the cover, that is where the gouge will be the deepest and if it is deep enough to get into the water port.
Cant really see the chain guide but normally it is going to be the drivers side that is broken or easily broken. It is brittle from being old and heat and cold cycles. I have broken a new one installing the head when it is in the truck. Just gets heavy and awkward while leaning over the truck. If you come across a junk motor or see some spare in the bone yard, I get one just for that reason. Other wise you have to buy a complete kit just for the guide in my experience.
I'm I think i might just order the Whole kit with the metal guides on Monday .. I'm thinking this one all the other stuff is evergreen and they seem to have good reviews So I'm thinking the parts all work together.
i see in the first pic, the timing guide is broken from the bolt...... pull the timing cover, and do the timing set. personally, if it doesn't leak oil, or about to, i see no need for cover replacement.... as for the copper spray, it won't hurt, and idk if it will as i've never seen it do harm....... usually, i wouldn't goive copper spray a second thought where i don't need to locate the gasket in place before seating. it's your call. you won't go wrong either way so what makes you feel better about the repair is the deciding factor.
09-16-2015, 05:17 AM
Obmi's Build & Questions
