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Ok so i ordered the complete kit. This one it's got 22RE Heavy Duty Timing Chain Kit w/ Timing Cover, Oil Pump, GMB Water Pump and Permatex 82194 Ultra Grey. I have already removed the head and rocker arm assembly and cam shaft sprocket.
So every thing needs to be reset to Top Dead Center.
Ok fine, but I keep hearing about 5 deg. Is that for timing the engine or for setting up the timing chain? I know to align the shiny links with the dimples. But both sprockets have keys on them for alignment.
So is If set the crank shaft to 0 tdc and the rocker arms are lose one cylinder 1 and distributor is pointed to fire on #1 and I will turn it over by hand. I should be good to go right? or should tdc be 5 deg for my fuel injection 86 Toyota sr5?
5 degrees is for spark timing. Cam timing is not the same thing. Its set at Zero! Put the timing mark, dimple on the crank to the top. The crank will then be at tdc. Put the timing mark on the cam sprocket at 12 o clock also Both will be in sync unless your block was decked, then the cam timing will be retarded depending on how much was removed.
Personally I would find true tdc with a piston stop and degree wheel and see if everything is back to spec when you assemble.
Ok thanks. I just wanted to make sure. Im hopping my parts will be here on Oct 10 2015 then i can get it dome on Oct 11. Right now Im going a head and doing the prep work , Like cleaning all the surfaces and painting the brackets etc.. Fixing stuck belt tensioner pulleys the bearing are fine they just wont slide up and down the bracket.
Ok I re-checked the block with the precision straight edge and a feeler gauge its all in speck.
It looks scratched up really bad, but i cant feel any of it when i went over it with a razor blade and its been that way for at least 75k miles.
I have no option to pull the engine and have it decked. ( I live in an apartment and have to do that all on the down low) But Im going to spray the new head gasket with the Permatex - Copper Spray-A-Gasket stuff and roll the dice.
Now are the red lines the right place to apply the permatex ultra gray? Does that work the same for the oil pan or the whole thing. I would like to run it about 50-100 miles and change the oil and drop the pan and clean it. If my timing chain comes in I will be doing it Sunday when the office is closed.
Also I have head of people cutting the timing cover part of the gasket off. I don't plan to do this or understand why they are doing it.
Ok I re-checked the block with the precision straight edge and a feeler gauge its all in speck.
It looks scratched up really bad, but i cant feel any of it when i went over it with a razor blade and its been that way for at least 75k miles.
I have no option to pull the engine and have it decked. ( I live in an apartment and have to do that all on the down low) But Im going to spray the new head gasket with the Permatex - Copper Spray-A-Gasket stuff and roll the dice.
Now are the red lines the right place to apply the permatex ultra gray? Does that work the same for the oil pan or the whole thing. I would like to run it about 50-100 miles and change the oil and drop the pan and clean it. If my timing chain comes in I will be doing it Sunday when the office is closed.
Also I have head of people cutting the timing cover part of the gasket off. I don't plan to do this or understand why they are doing it.
Lets start at the top: Great news on the block deck. One less [BIG] thing to deal with.
Many people disagree with the idea of using a copper spray on a head gasket with an iron block and aluminum head. Most will say to put it on clean and dry. Clean with acetone and then rubbing alcohol. Lots of controversy about the headgasket to use. Many will say buy one from the stealership. Others like permatex etc. I used a victor-reinz. Time will tell.
The red lines are the right place to put the ultra grey. Doesn't take much.
Same for the oil pan area, no sense buying a whole tube of ultra black for that small part. I don't torque things up till the next day, some will say to just wait an hour. No fluids for 24 hours!
Why remove the pan if its not leaking? Removing it and reinstalling it while in the chassis sounds like a fun time I could do without. Just change the oil after the first hundred miles or so.
Expand more on the timing chain gasket cutting. Which part? Some don't use a gasket at all, some use small amount of ultra grey with the gasket. I did.
Expand more on the timing chain gasket cutting. Which part?
When i remove the 2 bolts from the bottom of the timing cover, I just figured it might start leaking when i messed up the gasket.
Some people were doing timing chain jobs and not removing the head. They were cutting the head gasket part that goes around the top of the timing chain cover.
Usually there won't be a gasket on the oil pan. Can you see one? In fact from what I have read Toyota hasn't used them since the early 80's. They use their own FIPG.
I have no experience with replacing the timing cover without removing the head. If you did then it would take much more gasket sealer. Not something for you to worry about since your head is off. Don't cut it.
You are on the down hill part of the race.
No I had to pull the head. It was leaking and cracked. When I had it off i saw the timing chain guide was busted and eating in to the cover. So I just bought a new head and whole timing guide kit. With cover , Water pump and oil pump.
On a quick note. How do people prime the oil pump on the 22re?
So i got the cover off ( so far not counting the crankshaft bolt, It has been going well.) It's all gouged up and the tensioner is gouged as well. I'm glad i decided to do the whole thing with all new parts as well. I don't see any out right cracks in the to water jacket but it does not matter I'm replacing it all.
Should I just cut that gasket and use the permatex? I really dont want to drop the pan right now.
Oh WOW Now i do see a big crack
Looks like most of the Timing guide was still in the timing cover.
It still broke a part. and every piece was gouged by the chain.
"Should I just cut that gasket and use the permatex?"
I assume you mean on the oil pan? Yes, but again its not a packaged gasket that's on there now, its Toyota's FIPG. Ultragrey or Ultrablack will do, many others too. Don't torque it for at least an hour, just finger tight after assembly. I let it sit overnight before I torque to spec.
Yea sorry i meant the oil pan gasket. I can let it sit as long as needed.
So finger tight on everything that has ultra gray on it? So since im putting it on the top coroners should i wait to torque the head gasket as well? I have no problem letting it sit as long as recommended.
I was also going to put it on the paper gaskets as well. Should i not do that or let that wait as well?
I assembled mine and left everything loose. Torqued the HG to 20lbs. Next day I torqued everything up to spec. 65lbs on the head. It was a little easier for me since the engine was on a stand. Before this I chased the threads with an old headbolt and used new one's on the head. Lube em, start in the middle of the head and work your way out in three increments. Good idea to chase all of your threads, makes torque readings on.
Some may do it different but this worked for me.
Some will just apply Ultragrey on both clean surfaces with no paper gaskets, some use the gaskets and less Ultragrey. I sprayed my paper gaskets with coppercoat, let them dry and used a small amount of ultragrey on both sides.
There are other kinds of gasket materials. Toyota makes their own FIPG which looks to be on on your oil pan and was on mine. Mine never leaked and its an 87. Permatex also makes "The Right Stuff" which is similar to FIPG but not exactly the same. Both of these set up quickly and can be exposed to fluids in an hour, but you have to work fast. A lot of shops use this so the vehicle doesn't have to sit waiting for things to cure.
Ok I am quitting for the night. I finely got all the gasket stuff cleaned off the block ( It took a long time.)
I set some things in place and will put the water and oil pump on the timing chain cover. I sprayed the gaskets so they can dry over night.
The sealant for the cover goes on the front of the block not the top right?
I also want to say thank you so much for your help.
Cleaning up and prep is so important and yes it takes a lot of time.
Oil pump and water pump install is so much easier before installing the cover. And you can do it in the living room.
I used a little ultra grey around the timing cover area on top. I stress "a little bead" 1/16-1/8
You are welcome. This is a great site and I have learned a lot reading endless hours about these trucks. Lots of people like to spread their hard earned wisdom here.
I torqued all the 8mm bolts to 12 ft lbs except the tensioner bolts which I set to 90 inch pounds.
Last edited by nordicwargod; 10-12-2015 at 05:41 AM.
Reason: add on
Should I use any Loctite? like blue on any thing? or is torque enough?
I was thinking about doing it all in the living room, and just not putting on the drive spline So the gears could move when I install the cover. That way i could have the Oil pump and water pump all done and just pop it on with the timing cover.
Should I use any Loctite? like blue on any thing? or is torque enough?
I was thinking about doing it all in the living room, and just not putting on the drive spline So the gears could move when I install the cover. That way i could have the Oil pump and water pump all done and just pop it on with the timing cover.
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I didn't use any loctite and there wasn't any when I disassembled that I noticed.
I assembled the oil pump and torqued it on the cover since there is only a O ring. Waterpump I assembled finger tite and torqued to six lbs the next day with Ultragrey. Had no problem getting it on over the sleeve.
10-07-2015, 07:11 AM
Timing Chain Job and questions.
