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Before this all happened the windows got slower and on cold days they needed help going up. I was thinking that needed to be lubed. I never got around to it.( I guess i have time now and about a week before complete failure I would find my truck unlocked. I thought it was just me getting old and forgetting to lock it.
So one day im driving down the road and the locks kept chattering.(Locking and unlocking) So I was thinking a short or bad wire. I cant find it. Then i pulled in to a store and it stated locking and unlocking after i got out of the truck. With out me being inside the truck. then i saw what i thought was smoke coming out of the door.
Like the locks burned out and died. All fuses are good(as far as i know) But i can't figure out why every thing is dead. I thought it was the alarm. But I have opened it up and it all looked good. I cleaned all the grounds.
I pulled the power door relay ( on top of the break peddle for my truck.( Says buzzer so I might have the wrong thing. There is some power on 2 of the pins at the door. ( I will pull the panel later and let you know what pins. ) but its not full battery voltage.
I have heard that the relay gets messed up so here is mine. I think it is ok. ( also dash light work so i don't think its the gauge fuse.
Ok Here is the edit forget the other pics it was the wrong part.
Here is the correct module
And here is were I Found mine. The alarm installers must have moved it (30 years ago)
I can see where they tapped the alarm into it.
I pulled it out and I heard a rattle like something loose or a screw fell out.
Nope looks like water got in.
Old 08-19-2005, 12:44 PM #7
4Hummer
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Power Windows Fix
Seems on the later 1st gen Runners they use a Power Window Module not a relay, Toyota wanted $419 Cdn plus 15% Tax for this puppy. (Stupid Stealerships)
FIX:
Run a power line from the battery with a 30AMP fuse, into the door. Splice this Power line into the Blue Wire with Red Stripe (Located: Drivers Side Window Switches)
This Bypasses the Power Window Module all together. The neat part is that the windows will go up and down with out the key in the ignition.
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1991 4Runner 22RE.
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Last edited by 4Hummer; 08-19-2005 at 12:46 PM. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the door is getting power. A few point like this have battery voltage.
This is the door plug
I guess i need to recheck the switch again. I wish i knew what to jumper for window up and down and locks. All the diagrams show a different plug.
Do you have the rest of the wiring diagram in 1986 FSM? From that, you can figure out what wire has to get power when, and from that you can figure out the pinout of the switch.
4Hummer is correct. The only thing the door control relay does is provide power (12v) for a few seconds after key-off to pin 9 (in '93 http://web.archive.org/web/201102052.../7powerwin.pdf) of the arm-rest type switch. I'm going to guess 12v is supplied to pin 4 of your door trim switch, and I'm guessing pin "zero" is not a pin at all but an internal connection.
So if you can confirm that, 4Hummer's solution is a good one; you'll be able to operate the windows with the power off. (If that's a security or safety risk for you (kids?), you can hook the line to a switched line, like the gauge fuse.)
Continuing my guessing, I'd say pin 1 is ground, pin 3 & 8 is the left window motor, 2 & 5 to the right motor.
Im kind of thinking now. to bypass the windows and just buy a power lock kit. I can use the actuators that are already in the truck.
Might as well add a new alarm, or remote starter too. What do you think?