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I will link this to may main thread later but I felt this needed its own topic.
I really do. The Album has many more pictures. But I'm thinking this is bad / to many problems.
There is my thinking.
head decked 40 bucks
head pressure tested 40 bucks
new valves 80 bucks
total 160 bucks.
Its my understanding that a crack does not mean it leaking "Yet" . Now i can get a new one Toyota 22R 22RE 22REC Cylinder Head Complete W/ Valves And Camshaft for $273.95 & FREE Shipping.
so put in 160 into a old head that might fail soon or put about 100 more for a new/ good one.
This is looks like a breach in the fire ring.
Cracked between the Valves?
Looks like each cylinder has it's own problem or 2.
So should i even bother the have this pressure tested and if it passes to have it milled? What about the fire ring problem. Or am i just confused on how all this works.
Also the block passed the feeler gage test so that is good.
imho, the only stuff one should ever use (as a temporary fix) is the heat cure epoxy pellets, followed by a back-flush, as it only sets up where the leak is and temps are higher than 120, or whatever the temp is above that that sets it. so, that being said, back-flushing is the best way without hot-tanking it. you need a faucet adapter for your garden hose (aquarium water change system or waterbed kit will have the adapter, but you can get the adapter separately, usually at pet stores and other places, so you can attach a garden hose. hot water for a bit and then detergent, even simple green and another flush. having the head off makes this quite difficult, but at the least you can back-flush the heater cores and radiator and use buckets of hot water with detergent flush right into the coolant jackets of the block. remove the lower radiator hose and drain the coolant, then a couple buckets of hot water into the water jackets, then detergent solution with a rubber glove tied, or rubber-banded over where the lower hose attached and let sit for 10 min or so, then pull off and flush a few more times. the cores you need to have heat selector on hot, and the hot water hose flushing where the coolant returns and draining where it attaches by the thermostat (from the hose, not the thermostat) it's kind of like painting a car in your garage. it get's absolutely everywhere, like you lighting and sockets, stereo/cdplayer, air compressor, heater, etc, etc... but at least you can flush out any loose crud to keep it from becoming more of a problem later.
Looks the same as long as the ports are the same. The exterior is somewhat insignificant. If you got it from Ted at Engnblder, he wouldn't sell you something that would work for your yota.
09-18-2015, 07:20 AM
I think this cylinder head is bad.
or put about 100 more for a new/ good one.
Agree buy a new head .
