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I literally meant I thought I was in the right section, as in: Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
I'm not sure why the 89 problem is easier to solve, as depiante put it. I still have the same jacked up glue, clips and chrome BS, and I don't want to replace all that garbage. A little more guidance would be appreciated.
I literally meant I thought I was in the right section, as in: Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
I'm not sure why the 89 problem is easier to solve, as depiante put it. I still have the same jacked up glue, clips and chrome BS, and I don't want to replace all that garbage. A little more guidance would be appreciated.
If I deciphered all of this information properly you should be fine using HILUXLN111'S information in order to replace your chrome trim clips and glue BS with just window and seal but you would have to go through the process he describes with removing the headliner, "black bar", etc.
It is easier on the 89' because it does not require sourcing the smaller glass that people are saying is not available/very hard to locate in the US. not sure if you worded your post properly but if you DONT want to replace all that garbage then you don't really have any options besides what people stated towards the beginning of this thread about using some type of universal trim. But the information here leads to the RIGHT way to have a windshield sealed properly with as little issues as possible WITHOUT the chrome rust maker trim is to follow HILUXLN111s post. hope that helps if you're still looking for clarity on this.
Is that urethane oozing out of the bottom left corner? if not....what in the wide wide world of sports am i looking at?
it is my understanding this type of gasket is meant to be used WITHOUT urethane.
Looks like it seals and sits well though urethane or not. Thanks!
It's "molding" not a "gasket", hence the " generic " reference from the poster and the window glued in place. You can see the window glue on the vertical surface.
Can see pinholes in the gutter seam sealer, if you start to get water intrusion fix this first before going crazy on the window.
It's "molding" not a "gasket", hence the " generic " reference from the poster and the window glued in place. You can see the window glue on the vertical surface.
Can see pinholes in the gutter seam sealer, if you start to get water intrusion fix this first before going crazy on the window.
gotchya. maybe my eyes are reading it wrong but thought the poster said gasket as well. wasn't nitpicking the poster by any means. and yes I see the urethane aka window glue as well that's why I asked if that's in fact what I was looking at.....gasket/moulding sun/son their/they're toyota/toyoda
some people reply to the questions or to try to help others just feel the need to reply I suppose
as far as the pinholes in the gutter seem sealer ill take your word on that
Yes. Some vehicles like the VW Beetle and maybe non-U.S. 4Runners / Hilux / Surf may have a gasket securing and sealing the glass.
My U.S. model 1986 4Runner has windshield attached with urethane adhesive (like Sika Flex brand). The chrome or the rubber surrounding the glass is cosmetic - a trim or a moulding. There is about 3/16" thick bead of urethane between the glass and the sheet metal.
I totally deleted the trim on mine for reasons I have posted in many places on this forum...
Correct, the rubber trim does not curve around the corners very well because it is universal; hence, not custom-fit to the glass. One reason I got rid of mine...
Earlier install...
RUBBER TRIM IS INSTALLED AROUND THE GLASS BEFORE IT IS PLACED ON ADHESIVE BEAD ON THE METAL SURROUND.
If windshield surround metal is prepared properly and the windshield installed properly it is a solid repair.
I had a leak which I eventually narrowed down to deteriorated gutter seal.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Mar 6, 2020 at 10:32 PM.
Finished product. No leaks, the dash didn't have to be removed and all the trim fits like it should.
The gasket installs just like an old VW bug (search for video examples). Have one person on the outside and one on the inside, take your time & use plenty of soapy water. I also used the rope & soapy water to re-install the cowl.
I ordered the same molding and they sent me a tube urethane with it to. I put the glue inside of the groove and installed the molding to the truck, then tried to work the windshield in using nylon spoons and soapy water. Broke the windshield. Did you use any glue at all or was it just strictly rope it in?
I ordered the same molding and they sent me a tube urethane with it to. I put the glue inside of the groove and installed the molding to the truck, then tried to work the windshield in using nylon spoons and soapy water. Broke the windshield. Did you use any glue at all or was it just strictly rope it in?
No urethane needed and I recommend having a glass shop doing the install, Search around for a glass shop with an older glass tradesman, someone who has been doing glass for a long time.
I ordered the same molding and they sent me a tube urethane with it to. I put the glue inside of the groove and installed the molding to the truck, then tried to work the windshield in using nylon spoons and soapy water. Broke the windshield. Did you use any glue at all or was it just strictly rope it in?
What did your windshield originally have? Then, use same method. Why reinvent the wheel?
Here is the lowdown on windshields on the 89-95. Some base model stripped down trucks had gasket set windshields These are held in place by the gasket, and are not glued to the body. This is a different windshield than the one that's glued in but the only difference is in the frit. The glass is the same size/dimension etc. The "frit" is the black band that runs around the outer perimeter of the glass and its main function is to prevent UV rays front attacking the urethane from the outside and to give the urethane a nice surface to bond to. So bottom line is these windows ARE interchangeable. The other option aside from the gasket is to just use universal molding. In doing this the glass is still glued to the body, you are just using the universal molding instead of the factory clip in pieces. No matter which way you do this the window has to be removed and replaced or can be reinstalled if its in good shape and the person doing it is competent enough to remove it without breaking it.
From: exo-reality -wave if you see me; Front Range, CO
plastic clips NOT needed
Please excuse my ignorance, but the clip things were all just used for the chrome trim, right? So those are needed again, unless one puts the chrome trim back on.
Correct?
edit : I said to myself "Self, those are not needed. Deep 6 the chrome." Four coffees and re-reading AGAIN, it sort of becomes clearer.
Last edited by coopster; Mar 25, 2020 at 08:37 AM.
Reason: confusing verbage
From: exo-reality -wave if you see me; Front Range, CO
I stumbled across a 'tube video the other day, wherein this guy fabs up his own sheetmetal parts, including compound curves. I'm going to have to try it on my rear pass wheel well.
In one of his promos or whatever they're called, he references rebuilding what looks strikingly similar to the top passenger side of our windshields, when totally void of decent metal. Might be worth a look if you're in that predicament.
I will not post a direct link, but Search for this utube playlist: 9MPykdZF9YU
Last edited by coopster; Apr 14, 2020 at 08:49 AM.
Reason: hyperlink came across with copy/pasta