Its a 1988 Pickup SR5 Xtra Cab. Picked it up from the original owner in NC. So far Ive installed new carpet, had all the rot on the cab, repainted the cab. The bed was too far gone to be repaired but right now its a shop that normally does roll cages but we are building a reproduction of the All-Pro flat bed kit they use to sell. I also have a fully built solid front axle for it, Marlin ultimate dual cases, and of course reproduction SR5 decals for it!

 

So that is the rubber gasket we need.
Nice truck!

 

Thanks!

Here is the link again. They also have a version available that accepts a generic chrome insert if you still like to retain the look without the issues.

http://toyheadauto.com/Toyota_Truck_...therstrip.html

 

After initially reading the entire thread I thought I better go ahead and peel back my chrome trim to see the condition behind it.. I am so glad I looked! The lower driver corner was just past the stage of surface rust and began minor pitting!


Not terrible I know, but I figure if I want to preserve the body of this truck I better go ahead and do some preventative maintenance.

So my glass guy removed the windshield, cleaned everything up, used a rust converting primer for anything that would have remained, and we installed the windshield. I went for the universal moulding route. (He used 3/4” size universal)

He took the time to center it so the moulding looked perfect, and I chose for the bottom of the molding to go over the cowl instead of under (will see in picture).






I am very satisfied with how the universal moulding method turned out on mine! My glass guy taped the 4 corners of the moulding down so the urethane would harden with them in that shape.

However when I paint the truck in a few years I will be going the gasket method. Did not feel like pulling the dash a third time in a year to just take that little sheet metal lip out. (mentioned in two other comments- that needs to be removed so gasket can sit on pinch weld)

 

Nice! If your glass guy is willing, a PN from that universal gasket would be really helpful. Sometimes going that route works fine, other times people hit snags. Maybe having the PN out there would help us get consistent results.

 

I believe you are looking for another part number, he didn't install it in an 85.

 

Great idea, just got the P/N from him. I used the 3/4” moulding on mine. But he says the 1” would probably look good too.

Gold Glass Group (supplier)
3/4” P/N: ET-107B
1” P/N: ET-108B

 

I just ordered the same part that's mentioned in post #55.

We'll see how delivery goes with the whole COVID situation. I'm gonna have Safelite install it since they have no problem using this gasket being that it's an OEM part #.

 

Cool thanks, details here: https://www.gggcorp.com/Universal_Mouldings.html#ET

That's the kind of thing I can show to my own glass guy to be sure I get consistent results. I'm just going glue and gasket method, not gasket-only

 

Hi all. Mak92, how did this go? Did you ever get your gasket? Get it installed?

I'm at the point now where I gotta decide what to do. I am wrestling with "Do I put that black metal trim piece back in before I put the dash top back on?"
And waiting on a call from a glass installer too.

 

(Insert pitiful bump here)

 

It looks like MaK updated his build thread, and did not end up using the one piece gasket.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52464340

 

Oh. I will go check his thread. Thanks

 

I typically go through the insurance company to replace my windshields on my vehicle(s). It's $50.00 and a steal of a deal. Basically when the tech arrived, he told me that this 1 piece rubber is an extensive install and just wouldn't be able to spend the proper time to install it. Long story short, i just had him put the stock stuff back on and call it good. There was zero rust under the chrome anyway.

 

Ooh. 50 bux. Not bad. This unit hasn't been on road or insured in like 10 years.
My volvo however, isn't getting a 50 windshield; its almost in 4 pieces.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

I am gearing up to do the rubber gasket replacement on my 1986 pickup. At least after some rust repair. Bumping this thread to ask:

1) Is the Toyhead Auto gasket that @Dr Phat mentioned a few posts back (with a "relief" to support the front hood cowl) different than the OEM 56121-89117 gasket?

2) When doing the rubber gasket replacement, is it really just the rubber holding the glass to the window frame? In other words, no sealant at all is used? Someone asked this a while ago but I didn't see an answer.

Thanks!

 

Hey vulture86. I don't know about the toyhead gasket. Back in Aug or so my neighbor was getting windshield replaced. So I asked the guy about doing my windshield.
After a bit he came over gave it a look. He had some generic (I don't recall exactly what the name brand was.) He put that around the sides and top, and about 4 inches on each side on bottom.

Then he applied some sort of 3M black glue or caulk. Said he had about 30 min to work. The stuff cured quite solid. Thats what holds the glass in. (Mine is a 95). The rubber just protects the edge.
CO gets a lot of rocks Looks pretty good for me. Might have to cut a little bit on the rubber outside on bottom. At least it looks like maybe when I put the cowl piece back on. WAs looking at that today.

 

Hey coopster, thanks for the reply. So that's one person who says yes, sealant should be used to hold the glass in the rubber gasket.

 

Actually he said the sealant (some 3M stuff IIRC, in huge tube) was what holds the window on.
The rubber gasket (which only goes around top and either side on mine) just keeps debris out of channel, makes it look nicer, and I think helps maybe protect the glass edge just a bit.

I found some pics I took.

bottom edge of glass. 'gasket' seen slightly upper left

Adding back that crummy 'chrome' strip to fit under the louvre thingy

 

Holy zombie thread revival Batman.

Hard to believe I posted in 2006 about this, but 17 years later, here we are.

Turns out my universal trim install I was so enamored with at the time was less than stellar. I had been getting some light seepage on heavy rain or automatic touchless car wash trips, so I decided to do some poking. The windshield itself was installed about ¼ to ⅜” too high, and only the top of the windshield was glued to the cab. The other three sides, the urethane was attached to the universal trim, and barely at that. About 4” in the lower driver corner missed the window and the trim completely. Of course, the top that was attached trapped a bunch of water and caused some pretty crispy rust to form on the vertical portion of that flange, including a couple pinholes. I pulled the window over the weekend, have been doing grinding, fiberglass, and rust treatment, and will be getting a new windshield put in tomorrow along with the original chrome trim. I got a new clip set for the trim, and the truck is a third vehicle at this point that spends most of the time in the garage, so there shouldn’t be much risk of further damage.

The only upside of the crappy install was it made removing the old windshield a breeze, although I still cracked the old one getting it out. I had all but 3” of urethane in the drivers upper corner cut, and that was enough to flex and spiderweb it. D’oh.

I do think there’s probably a way to do the universal trim and have it work well, but mine wasn’t it.

Oh, and for anyone who needs to know, Precision PCK-471-84 Molding Clip Kit is what you want to get to reattach the chrome trim correctly. According to the FSM, it can be done independently of the windshield install, although installers always seem to want to do it at the same time.