Hello everyone,
I'd like to start with a big thank you to all of the great people that make up this extremely valuable resource. YotaTech has bailed me out more than once on multiple vehicles but this is my first post. I hope I haven't overlooked anything already posted that may be related to my current issue. That being said, on with the saga.

The Specs:
Stock 94' pickup 4x4 2.4L 22re

History:
-Acquired truck from father in law for $500 7yrs ago after his mechanic consistently misdiagnosed a cracked block. This guy put in all new cooling system and a head gasket before realizing the block was cracked
-Picked up a rebuilt from a machine shop and dropped it in. Drove it as a daily driver for 2yrs. Continuously ignored the EGR trouble code that I never got around to repairing after the motor swap. Whoops :0
-Blew the new head gasket presumably from the EGR malfunction She was drinking antifreeze for a while.
-Started the head gasket job and never finished due to health reasons. Confirmed the gasket blew between a coolant port and the cylinder. I stripped everything apart and then it sat with the head off for 4yrs. I'm finally able to do this type of work again so I started the long road back.

Related notes:
-The block sat hood closed with most of the mating surface covered, but I had stuffed some paper towels into the BDC cylinders during the cleaning process and never removed them. Needless to say they were rusted to the cylinder walls when I went to remove them 4yrs later. I had quite a bit of buffing to do to clean it up. Hopefully I didn't out of round the cylinder wall. There's still some mild pitting in the walls of those two cylinders but I'm hoping its not enough to effect performance or damage the rings. Comments on this are welcome.
-Cylinders were soaked in PB blaster before attempting to rotate the crank.
-Already emptied the mouse nest out of the air box. Blew out the filter. Will replace after it starts.
-Blew out any visibly clogged vacuum lines and plug wires. Damned mud wasps!!
-Already replaced the oil left in the block
-Added fresh water to the open Tstat hole in the manifold until the drain ran clear before filling it up

My current problem:
Damned thing won't fire at all. Not even a put put. It's like I'm cranking it with the coil wire off.
-It's got new properly gapped plugs in it. The old wires cap and rotor which were installed NEW with the motor swap were cleaned up. The wires had some mud in the ends but nothing deep enough to reach the metal contacts. The rotor had a little rust on the contact and was cleaned up with some "0000". The cap looked good.
-Both a spark tester and Induction timing light indicates plugs are firing
-Pulled plugs and they were dry to the touch but still smelled like fuel
-Cranking with no plugs I should be getting blasted with fuel right??????? Like I should be able to smell it across the street right????
-Cracked the flare fitting between the frame and block and pumped the tank dry jumping the Fp and B+. Well..... dryish. it was still trickling when I stopped. Dumped in fresh 5gal.
-Replaced fuel filter. I think it was original so I jumped right into it. I neglected to replace it with the motor swap.
-(From this forum) Pulled return line from fuel pressure regulator and placed it in a 1.75L wine bottle. Manually opened the AFM with the key on and the bottle filled approx 3/4 full in 60sec. I think it's supposed to be a Quart/Minute. I thinks its close enough.

Assumptions made at this point:
-Compression is good
-Spark is good based on cheap spark tester and response from induction timing light
-Fuel delivery is most likely issue. Vehicle sat for 4yrs. and I am not getting massive fuel odors from open spark plug holes during cranking.

I have not cracked the CSI banjo yet as I wasn't sure if that should be my next step. Fuel system troubleshooting is a new thing for me. What's my next step forward here? Or was one of my previous steps/methods incorrect? It's been awhile since I did this type of work and I'm probably overlooking something simple. I know I posted a lot of info and went on some tangents so thank you for your patience. I am grateful for any and all information.

 

Welcome to YotaTech. Glad to hear your health issues resolved (at least enough to get back to your truck).

Have you tried a very light spritz of starter fluid? Don't remove the induction plumbing (the VAF has to work), just use one of the ports on the intake. If it fires with starter fluid, you probably have a fuel delivery issue. Since you've got system pressure, your injectors might be clogged, or not opening.

If it won't fire with starter fluid (and you've confirmed spark), are you sure the spark is at the right time? Even if the timing light shows it "correct," if you removed the distributor you could have it out 180° (firing at the top of the exhaust stroke instead of compression).

Next, I'd check compression. If somehow your valve timing is off, it should reduce compression

 

Please verify you have the distributor installed correct. Best video instructions I have found is linked below. Make sure the rotor clocks back to the left pointing to number one just like in the video.

 

Thanks guys. You both nailed it on the head. Somehow I wound up getting the crank rotated before installing the distributor so it was in fact 180 off. If I hadn't run out of starting fluid I would have figured it out much sooner. It needed a new filter and fresh gas anyways though. YotaTech to the rescue once again! She's running now but a long way from roadworthy. Blew the rear brake line when I jumped in to start it Also, she's throwing a code 12 (RPM signal) and idles like crap (super low). The cable connecting the distributor to the coil is worn between the electrical connector and the distributor. My first instinct is to just replace the distributor but at $150 I think I want to see if anybody has any input on that.

 

Your first instinct is to fire the parts cannon? Take a deep breath. Let it out.

Feel better? Code 12 is "No G or NE signal is input to the ECM for 2 secs. or more after STA turns on." "RPM signal" is an okay shorthand, but not accurate. First of all, this is a stored code. Since your vehicle runs, it's not completely missing G or NE. So start by resetting the codes (pull the EFI/MFI fuse for 30 seconds). Does the code come back? You can directly test the part of the distributor that produces G and NE: http://web.archive.org/web/201212070...12onvehicl.pdf If it fails those tests, you may consider a replacement distributor.

But: you've noted the cable to the distributor is worn. Are you talking about the high-voltage lead to the coil? Or the smaller wires that carry G and NE to the ECM? Worn wires don't transmit low-value signals well.

 

Sorry for the delay. I changed gears and started digging into the brake lines. Not a fun job at all. I'd rather do that motor swap 4 times over before I climb back under the chassis to do brake lines again. I replaced both lines from the engine compartment all the way to the LSPV. They were both destroyed between the frame and the fuel tank. After I got the tank back in I started to troubleshooting again. I have to admit I did in fact fire the parts cannon before digging all the way down into it. I read on another post of problems even though the distributor tests all checked out OK. I didn't want to be troubleshooting ghost issues later on down the road. More importantly the electrical connector wires looked beat and were most likely a contributing factor in the initial code. With the new distributor in, the truck runs a lot smoother and throws no codes I also figured out why the idle was so low. FRIGGING MUD WASPS!!!!!!!!! Idle adjustment screw was useless as the port was frigging clogged. Cleared the port, adjusted idle and timing and now she's purring.

I'm ready to change gears again and start getting her ready to be my daily driver again. I need to address a couple of issues though. She's got a broken leaf and I was driving her around like that before I parked her 4 years ago. I'd like to address the broken leaf and get her tow ready. I can't tow with a broken leaf and she can't be my daily without a hitch. That being said I'm having trouble figuring out exactly what I want to do with her. The thoughts rolling through my head are:
-If I need to replace the rear suspension anyway why not consider a lift while I'm going through the motions (and money). From what I can find, stock replacement springs are around $1000. I've seen lift kits for $1500 that include new leafs and shocks too. Hmmm.
-If I lift the rear can I get away with not lifting the front? Should I? What's involved with lifting the front? Can it be done later?
-If I do a lift, do I need to get tires too? The tires on there now have like 8k on them.
-What do I do for a hitch? Should I just get a standard bolt up or should I get one integrated into a bumper. As you all know on your trucks, the stock bumper is rotted all the way through. I actually just cut it off as it was causing more harm with the sharp edges. If I'm lifting, I should probably get one that's built into the bumper right!?!? I'm hesitant with the one in the link as it's not officially rated for towing. Anyone have any experience towing with the one in the link? Or have another source for a similar one?
I would appreciate any input on these topics that could help me make more informed decisions on which route to take. Or bring me back to reality and remind me that dropping that kind of dough on a truck that's 25years old is just plain insanity. Or maybe get me somewhere in between

 

For a much less expensive and, actually, very simple, easy to do, rear suspension lift/repair, try the famous ZUK MOD.
It's also a popular solution to the 4Runner's famous "saggy butt" syndrome.

All depends, really, on how far you want to lift the rear, what size tires you want to put on it, and if you want your truck to look silly, with a taaaaallll rear, and a short little front. If you just want to lift the rear far enough to make it the height is was many years ago, no, you can leave the front alone. If you want to lift the rear an inch, maybe 1.5", above it's original height, no, you can leave the front alone.
IIRC, you can fit 33" tires on your truck without any lift at all, but I may be wrong on that.

Not as long as the alignment is correct. As long as your tires wear normally, your alignment is correct. If you lift the front, a good idea to get an alignment done at a reputable shop.

I bought a nice, weld-on-to-the-frame drop hitch. Because it's professionally welded in, it's essentially part and parcel of the frame, now. Works great for towing, and I've yanked other 4-wheelers out of sand, etc with a rope looped around it. No sweat.
I bought it at a 4-Wheel shop in Yuma, Az. that no longer exists. I'd wager something similar is probably readily available on the net someplace, though. Google, Bing, whatever, is your friend.
Personally, I wouldn't use a bumper-mounted hitch. I want it either bolted or welded to the frame. I would hate to pull my bumper off with a heavy trailer, or something. That's strictly the opinion of a totally non-professional, non-mechanic, type person. I am sure the folks in here that do this sort of thing regularly have much better information on this than I do. I'm just a radar tech that's owned a couple of Toyota beauties for a long, long time.

Have fun!
Pat☺

 

You should be able to find a bolt on hitch pretty easy.
bumpers are for parking lots and fences

 

There's a Tires forum a few above this one. What tires will fit what trucks with/without lifts, and just how tall a lift you need, if any, for what tires.
You can read through it HERE. It might help you make a decision, or two.

I agree with Swampedout: bumpers are for bumping, not towing. Just ask Richard Petty

Seriously, I have a tow ball on my pickup's rear bumper, which is actually a heavy duty, after-market unit the man who owned the truck for a year before me had installed. It's bolted to the frame. He wanted to tow his Harley to events, and then ride it around, but the engine in the pickup was just a little too weak for his liking. He traded it back into the dealership for a bigger truck of some sort. I didn't know about him owning it before me, as he never drove it out to where we both worked, and I traded my 80 Chevy Luv in on it. Best trade I ever made. Point being, he DID tow his bike around for the year, but I have never towed anything with it. Only with my 4Runner.

I bought the 4Runner to drive my 5 kids around. I haven't bought another vehicle since, even though my kids are grown and gone many years now. I doubt I ever will, either. These two trucks just keep on keepin' on. Decent maintenance, a replacement part here-n-there, and they're both happy.
My wife and I are very happy too, although the pickup's cab is a bit small for my lovely wife. No, she's not a big woman at all, well in one place (ahem...), but she likes to pack things around with her. Big purse, soft-side brief-case, drinks in thermos's, etc. Whenever we go anywhere more than 5 miles from the house.

Anywho, I'll probably never tow anything with the pickup. Only the 4Runner, with it's heavy duty, welded in, drop-hitch. We used to show rabbits, and we would use a pretty good sized trailer to haul our rabbits, and all the other stuff we needed to the shows. It worked beautifully.

Good luck to you!
Pat☺

 

Is this a work truck or commuter or what?

I got 30 in tires on my lil yota. Was going to get 31s but my rims were too narrow. I like the 30s for my driving and have power where i want it with stock gears.
Ive had enough big lifted trucks to get over that whole thing. For me the beauty of these vehicles is their capability in fairly stock forms. Keeping an old truck on the road is expensive enough without adding on all the extras.

 

Thank you all for the input. I think I finally came down off of that cloud my head was up in when I was thinking of putting that kind of money into this truck. After doing a little more research I realize I can fit some pretty big tires on this thing with little to no mods. I was also reminded how versatile this truck is stock. After I rack up some decent mileage on my newer tires I'll start looking at up-sizing them and what mods(if any) would be required to make it happen.
After some thought and input from you guys, I think I'm gonna leave the rear bumper off entirely. I kind of like the look but I have to see how it looks with the new hitch installed. BTW, I ordered for under $200.
I still have to figure out what my next step is with repairing the suspension though. I'm no longer looking to make lift changes but I do need to repair the broken leaf. Do I go looking for a set of tired leafs from a yard and do the ZUK MOD or do I look for a new fresh set of leafs that comes with all new hardware? If you saw my undercarriage you might opt for just cutting the old ones out and replacing all the hardware(NJ salt). Anyone purchase replacement leafs for this truck? Got any product links? Can you get a hardware package without buying the leafs?

2Toy, I feel your wife's pain about the interior storage space. I too wish there was a little more room for a passenger and my gear. I find myself utilizing the toolbox in the bed for knapsacks and briefcases and the like. Good thing I don't use it for tools anymore

Swapedout, to answer your question she's going to be a bit of everything from a daily commuter to a utility to a toy. Right now I'm running out of cars to drive so she'll start her new life as a commuter until I can get my other 2 yotas back into daily driver status. With everything running properly, my pickup would be a weekender and winter storm driver and my other two would be my dailys unless I'm working on one of them.

 

I'm currently looking at these springs. With these shocks. Any thoughts or experience with these?
I was also looking at some OME springs but they appear to only be available with an increased lift. I saw a set that lifted like 1.75". Wondering if I could get away with that without having to make any further changes.

 

Youll like those bistein shocks.
i didnt see a manufacturer on the springs. Omes are a 2 in lift?

I think youll be impressed by the stock suspension.

 

The ones from SDtruck springs don't appear to have a manufacturer listed. And yeah, It looks like the OME ones I found are for a 2" lift. The suspension selector on oldmanemu.com.au doesn't even list the Toyota pickup. It lists the 4runner but not the pickup?? WTF? I've always been one to go with the idea of "tried and true" so I'm a little worried about going with a spring that doesn't even have a manufacturer listed. At least not without some first hand recommendations.

 

Yea it makes you wonder if a company will stand behind their product if they wont even list their name.

If it were me, id go OME. Theyre a known quality spring. I have a set for an older toyota Im going to install this winter. They are pricier but its cheaper than buying springs twice because the first ones were crap. Im cheap but suspension is something i spend money on. A little lift isnt bad, you could probly do 1 in bj spacers up front and be abt level.