Toyota trucks have many Frankenstein stuff done to them AT the factory as well as after.
Pls show us what you are working with.

Good test. That means the starter solenoid and the starter motor are good.

Also show us schematic of your truck. C.O.R. should only click when you "crank" and starter relay clicks ON.
You may have to double check your wiring and your work.
Absolutely Nothing should be connected to pin 4 of starter relay and the wire to it but the fused line to the battery.
Absolutely Nothing should be connected to that fused line to the battery but pin4 of starter relay.
You starter relay should not look like this LOL!
Disconnect this connector from the starter solenoid. It should lead to the black-white wire on the starter relay. That is pin2 of starter relay from mid-1986 to 1988 (Not sure about 1989). It should have absolutely no continuity with anything unless starter relay clicks on. When starter relay clicks on, Pin2 and pin4 should have continuity.

 

I realized I didn't give a lot of details about my rig: 1989 22R-E 5 speed manual DLX. Previous owner replaced the engine but I don't trust anything he did, as when I bought it he told my that the clutch was bad, but it was just out of fluid. So very possible something is jerry rigged causing my problem.

I double checked everything that i did and cant find an issue there (see above Pics). Tested the continuity between the solenoid spade connector and pin 2 of the starter relay connector and had .002 OHMs. 600+ OHMs at pin 4(at the new 30A fuse).

Got some juice back into the battery but still wont start. I do hear a faint click when i turn the key to "ON", but not sure what that is. The louder click from behind the glove compartment that i used to hear when the key was turned to "START", I now hear when the new 30A fuse is removed or replaced. Videoed it here:
1989 wiring diagram:


I don't have the electrical knowledge to make much out of this. I can tell you that my brother has an 88 22RE and everything looks identical on mine compared to his. Same with all your pictures, everything looks exactly the same on mine.

Also tested starter relay, and I can feel it click when the clutch is engaged, REGARDLESS OF KEY POSITION. Even with ignition in lock position and key removed, starter relay clicks when clutch is depressed fully. Is that supposed to happen?
Thanks for the help, im really not sure where to go next.

 

Good job doing your homework and putting us at your truck and letting us see, hear what you're working on. Makes me want to help more.

GOOD! Even if you know previous owners, always verify that they did not screw with our beloved classics.


Please show us exactly how you did this part. Show wire colors and where they go to the connector clearly...

Sounds like you did not snip the thick black wire diagonally across the thin black-red wire as I showed in original post.



Snip that wire.
Insulate end that is on the harness and tuck it away.
Connect the remaining pigtail on connector to your fused line to battery. Voila!

 

The taped wire I'm holding on the left is the thick black wire that was diagonal from the small red striped one. I tested all my connections for continuity and didn't find any issues.
Again, thanks for all the help. I'm not an expert by any means and I appreciate your patience.

 

Cool.
Measure the wire u are holding. It shud only get 12V when Ing switch is in Start position.
You connect ur fused line to the wire on the connector, not to the one you are holding.
Here's a better picture:

 

Wow, I feel dumb. Went out and re-wired it this morning, started right up. Looks like the constant voltage to that relay is fixed as well. Thanks a lot Rad, sorry for my electrical incompetence.

 

Most welcome.
We're happy to help people who do their homework and are willing to learn.

Yeah, that section of the wire on the harness is connected to the C.O.R.

TO help prevent further confusion, I updated the snipping picture with one with complete notes. I'll remove the UN-annotated picture from all posts I could find.

THANKS FOR CONFIRMING THAT STARTER RELAY IS ALSO WIRED WRONG ON YOUR MODEL-YEAR SO WE CAN WARN OTHERS.

 

Any update?

 

Sorry, only update is truck had been sitting in backyard because I'm on off-road adventure I could not take her on
Sailed the Aegean Sea from Bodrum, Turkey, stopped at quaint village of Armeni Bay on Santorini (accessible only by steep trail or from the water - sorry, no tourist routine), and eventually in Malta now for this...

 

Wow!

That looks like a really fun time!

 

So you're almost here! Cool!
Tell me if you want to visit us. We can meet each in other country around here if you want.
Enjoy!!

 

SPOTTED IN DISTANT LANDS:























...
BACK HOME!

 

Welcome back Ray. I really like those defenders. Looks like a cool adventure.

 

Thanks, Cory!
Epic. Squall after squall during passage from Turkey to Malta where the race started. Saw steady 30-knot wind, I only captured 41.1-knot gusts on camera, but saw 48.

During the race itself, near Favignana, western tip of Sicily....

 

HORN RELAY RETROFIT COMPLETE!
I UPDATED ORIGINAL POST.

 

I like tool rolls because they're compact, only take up almost same space as actual contents, and they fit inside body panel compartments
I'm re-purposing fabric that feels like Codura from broken folding travel chair.
This one's for my 1/2-inch drive kit, including a breaker bar, that I normally do not carry in truck when near civilization.







I MADE POCKETS FOR IMPACT SOCKET SET AND RATCHET/EXTENSIONS IN LINE WITH EACH OTHER

THIS WAY I GET A SLIM ROLL, THE LENGTH OF THE BREAKER BAR.

 

Ray - excellent idea to salvage a scrap collapsible chair! I have a couple chairs that are about to go in the trash, I think I might try this!

 

 

I have some seepage there so I'm bookmarking "Replacing Transfer Case Rear Oil Seal" For easy reference.
This is probably gonna be my next essential "drive-train reliability" project.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post51898126

 

gonna cory and paste that into my thread too just in case..