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Finally getting around to rewiring for the "click only" relay issue with starting. Something that should take me 10 minutes NEVER takes me 10 minutes! haha So as referenced from page 33 with my questions, I cut the correct wire and take the correct end to my battery pos+ and the truck attempts to start!!!! Yikes... luckily I had hand brake on and only touched for a split second or I might have gotten pinned in the garage! No key in truck! The clutch safety switch hasn't worked for a few years. Could that have something to do with this? I'm thinking NOT because hell, the keys weren't even in the truck. Or is my truck somehow different from this issue... and I must reconnect the wire I cut (diagonally across from the black-red wire)??? Or is something else messed up? Weird... seemed like a simple, logical procedure!?
Sorry must have been scary... but why are i working on electrical with your battery connected, unless you are perfectly confident about your electrical work (like I see no trouble in wiring a light switch with power on-LOL)? Need to work with battery disconnected, and when ready to power up, transmission should be in neutral.
Originally Posted by Brian1973
Finally getting around to rewiring for the "click only" relay issue with starting. Something that should take me 10 minutes NEVER takes me 10 minutes! haha So as referenced from page 33 with my questions, I cut the correct wire and take the correct end to my battery pos+ and the truck attempts to start!!!! Yikes... luckily I had hand brake on and only touched for a split second or I might have gotten pinned in the garage! No key in truck! The clutch safety switch hasn't worked for a few years. Could that have something to do with this? I'm thinking NOT because hell, the keys weren't even in the truck. Or is my truck somehow different from this issue... and I must reconnect the wire I cut (diagonally across from the black-red wire)??? Or is something else messed up? Weird... seemed like a simple, logical procedure!?
Hi Brian,
The only way that would happen if you wired according to "Figure A" is IF
1) the ST1 contacts of your ignition switch or contacts of starter relay were stuck closed (welded into itself) OR
2) someone bypassed the relay contacts... OR
3) You connected wire from HARNESS to battery, not wire from CONNECTOR to baytery.
Does it do it even if you unplug the relay? Did you connect the wire FROM THE RELAY CONNECTOR TO BATTERY OR THE WIRE FROM HARNESS SIDE TO BATTERY?
FIGURE A
No matter what truck you have, IF it has a starter relay, there should be ONE, AND ONLY ONE, pin that always has 12Volts even if ignition is off. That is the power supply pin for the contact. To make it simpler, remove the relay and probe the pins in the socket for with positive probe. Negative probe to bare shiny metal body ground.
There should be:
1) THAT ONE PIN , AND ONLY ONE PIN, that always has 12Volts even if ignition is off
2) One pin that only gets 12V when Ign switch is in the Start position.
3) One pin that has several OHMS resistance to ground (that's the resistance of starter solenoid coil)
4) On pin that will have very low resistance to ground ONLY if clutch were pressed OR clutch safety cancel is on.
ALSO, did you verify according to this?
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Mar 19, 2017 at 08:13 AM.
I rode the kayak down a sand dune and impressed the Dos Equis man - LOL!
Seriously, I went off the La Jolla Shores last Sunday but it wasn't as pretty. Marine layer lingered even after I got done at 1400 hours...
Part of the beach was washed out from recent storms. This is almost routine here. They'd re-fill if back up and all will be back to normal.. repeat...
...Might as well share my kayak loading system...
Kayak is 13 feet long and weighs 55 pounds. The weight is no big deal- I carry that up frozen mountains. However, it's rather unwieldy; A wrong step, a little distraction could cause a fall/accident. So I need something the help with that. The Thule Hulluvator is rather pricey but I found a set for $300 on CL so I got it. Otherwise, the "crossbar extension" system is pretty good for much less cost.
To load, Put the kayak on its side on the "J" hooks..
Unlatch the loader arms and push the kayak and arms up while keeping kayak horizontal and keeping front and back of boat even...
Finally, tilt it over and unto the crossbars and strap down properly...
My roof rack is mounted only on the fiberglas cap so the boat sticks out in the back of the truck... Provide the appropriate flag (Courtesy of Adventure Copan @t4r.org)
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Mar 20, 2017 at 07:03 PM.
Hey, the tape around your windshield reminds me of a question.
How did you mount the side of the cowl cover closest to the windshield after your windshield replacement?
I have a set of trim clips, I was thinking about cutting them so they don't stick up past the cowl, wondering if you had thought of anything cleverer
How did you mount the side of the cowl cover closest to the windshield after your windshield replacement? I have a set of trim clips, I was thinking about cutting them so they don't stick up past the cowl, wondering if you had thought of anything cleverer
I detest hidden fasteners. When I want to access something, I want to take a screwdriver and remove a screw in plain view, not dig into manuals or search the web how and where the fasteners are so...
The cowl bottom and the cowl cover are not on parallel planes, so I could not simply use a nylon expansion nut in existing openings on bottom and make head flush with the cowl cover. Instead I:
1) Made cardboard dam. Needed it to be flexible to conform with the plane of the cowl cover.
2) Filled dam with Silicone (Windshield urethane adhesive would be stronger but I did not have any.)
3) Drilled clearance hole on cowl cover, screw through it from top into expansion nut on bottom side. Screw thread had silicone grease so it would not stick.
4) Re-installed cowl to embed the nylon expansion nut into the RTV silicone
5) Waited for Silicone to cure...
Yes, I got rid of my antenna rod because it gets in the way of loading the kayak, and I want one less thing to worry about at the carwash. I installed a hidden antenna.
Saaay, you wouldn't happen to want to sell the motor for your antenna would you? I might know a guy who's wife is demanding one on her truck, but his motor he has is incorrect.
Saaay, you wouldn't happen to want to sell the motor for your antenna would you? I might know a guy who's wife is demanding one on her truck, but his motor he has is incorrect.
Sorry, I don't have a power antenna. Just basic whip one.
Saaay, you wouldn't happen to want to sell the motor for your antenna would you? I might know a guy who's wife is demanding one on her truck, but his motor he has is incorrect.
Sorry, I don't have a power antenna. Just basic whip one.
And I like the solution, but my cowl requires no screws, the clips that used to hold the trim are just a place for the edge to rest.
The only screws are under the cowl.
Mine did not have the screw, either, but I want to just grab a screwdriver -a common tool- whenever I need to open, access, remove something, insted of having to research or open the mamual for every fastener I encounter. Hence, converting most fasteners I encounter with non-hidden, common screw. Jeep and Land Rover got that part right more so than Toyota.
Do you plan to install the trims around the windshield? I'd like to take the ones in my 4R out, the ones around the fenders also. The rusty spots in my truck're around those trims.
... The rusty spots in my truck're around those trims.
Absolutely no trim for me exactly for this reason.
Trim is over-rated LOL!
Not using debris and saltwater collecting trim is one thing HEEP did right, as well as using standard, UN-hidden fasteners that use standard tools and do not break each time you touch them.
AAAAHH!!!!!!!
Lol!
Tnx, will check it out. Reseaching best option for side marker/signal combo. The stock 194 in the red rear side marker I got is anemic. I gather from Habanero and Rworegon's posts that 921 will also fit in the stock T10 base. That would work because I need something with brightness between that of 194 marker and signal 1156/1157.
Hey Ray, I'm glad to see you're online. I pulled my windshield last night after months of a leak that had seemed to have gotten worse and found that the surface where the glass is glued down was in workable condition but there was rust everywhere under the trim. This truck has been down south it's whole life so I gave it about a 50/50 chance of being a pretty thin layer of rust. It was for the most part but I ran into one bad spot, which isn't as bad as this picture makes it look but is rusted through. I know you went through a lot of trial and error with yours if I remember right. I hardly ever get a day off but I am going to have this weekend and two days next week to tackle this project but I ordered a windshield today and scheduled to have it installed Monday. I may need to cancel it. Just wondering if you could give me any advice as to where to go with this. I will need to buy any supplies tomorrow as everyone is closed on the weekends in South Arkansas.
Please let me know what you think. It may be a month before I get another chance to even mess with it and it rains every third day down here this time a year.
Mar 18, 2017 | 07:22 PM
