I will in deed try too

I installed the Longfield axles last night. Today I the put the rest of the front end back together and got it sitting back on the front tires again

It turns out this coming weekend is a bust on wheeling but definitely more importantly its mothers day weekend so treat all your mothers with a day they so greatly deserve!

Ive got my ARB 3rd in the front now. I tested the seals quickly to assure no leaks and all looks good. As for the rear, Ive got it down at the shop being looked at and hope to have a welded Diff to place in the rear very shortly. We just installed one on my friends rig and it drives really well.

I turns out also my rear bearings are shot. Ive got a set on the way and Im sure this is all do from sitting for too long and water destroying the front and rear bearings. Oh well, once I get them in it should drive amazing and this time not squeal and vibrate so damn much

 

I see alot of topics about to should I Buy, replace, rebuild, swap, likes and dislikes, so on and so forth, ect... Some reasons why I didnt like my 3.0 and decided to swap was because it was very sluggish on the trail when it needed to have at least a hint of power, it chugged gas, did I mention it was slugish and auto tranny retarded??? Most of all even after a complete overhaul at 75K It went bad at

Just look at the gas gauge and miles

 

They should make that picture a sticky in the 3.4 swap section. I thought I was getting crappy mileage wheeling my '05 taco with the 4.0....that kind of mileage keeps the gas companies happy that sucks....

 

 

very nice rig keep up the good work

 

Thanks and yours look to be a very interesting build for sure

Good luck on it

:guitar

 

OK work is coming along with my build. Ive got everythhing in the front and rear taken care of. Arb is still needing wiring but ill get to it. My main things were to get my Longs in which I did and to also weld my rear third which I did along with replacing all my bearings. Its back on all fours again and ready to drive! Well sort of...

Of course another glitch in the road but i think Ive got in narrowed down to what is wrong with it. The motor runs perfectly and drives nicely aside from when I pin the gas quick to do a short quick rev or even just whien switching gears it bogges down to completly turning off but when I let off quick enough it returns to running again. It will also backfire every know and then when coming down from acceleration. I ran a MAF code before i figured out what was wrong with the heads and the only thing code wise I ran was for the MAF circuit Malf. I unplug the MAF and it runs the same as if it were plugged in. I believe the 3.4's comp puts the ECU into a fail safe mode when the MAF goes bad and makes it so it will run but not good at all.
I think by removing my entire intake including the cone filter and having the motor run the exact same with of without the MAF in means that my MAF is definitely faulty.

Would you all not agree? Does this sound like a faulty MAF in this case? I cant really see much else causing such a motor problem. Im gonna look more into it but Im almost certain that is whats causing my issues. Any thoughts about it is greatly appreciated.

 

Phill, the 5VZ will default to speed density metering if the mass air flow is unplugged, however you should be able to notice at least some difference. Does it change at all if you unlpug the MAF while its running? If you have a scan tool watch the PIDs unplug the MAF and see what happens to the fuel trim. The issue with the throttle hesitation is something i would also suspect the TP sensor for though. My throttle position sensor on my 5VZ has had several issues, at one point in time it actually would not sense anything other than idle and WOT.

unfortunately testing the MAF and the TP sensors to a high degree of accuracy requires a DSO (digital storage oscilloscope) so that you can see any imperfections in the voltage slope.

If you have any questions or want a voltage to compare to let me know i can pull scan tool PIDs or specific sensor voltages/frequencies from my truck using the tools at the college here and let you know.

 

Dude. Dude. Thats an awesome build. I just spent the last 3 hours reading all the 14 pages. I was even able to see 99% of the pictures with dial up! You're an inspiration to me, and im sure to all the other n00bs. Too bad im not going to have any money for the next 2 years considering ill be in school. I just started getting into offroading this last year, and a year too late :. My friend was trying to get me into 4xing last year with his modded yota and my stocker...but i didnt have money to mod mine since i was in 10th grade...now im getting out of highschool and i have money...but need it for school **ghay** I just got lucky with my engine and some water-- sucked a little water/mud into my engine, but luckily it got burned/pushed, or whatever happened, out. runs fine. no leaks or bent/burnt valves. haha...today i took apart my airbox/intake to clean it..JEBUS! there was so much mud....Im trying to retrofit a removeable snorkle onto the stock airbox using some tubing from an old vaccuum....too much about me. Your rig rocks. good luck with it. Im glad you got it running. Keep the pics coming!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

If only I was down closer to you tio use that tool :Laugh: My tps does kinda act weird when I adjust it. I will move it slowly side to side and at points it will have a jump in throttle and revs up a bit higher. but Still I have the surge when I press the gas. The only way I can avoid the surge is if I slowly rev up. Wen I give it the gas and it kills the motor its comes back to running when I let off. Im thinking its still the MAF since I ran that code earlier p0100 and p0110. As for when pluged and unplugged does it change any? Ide say if at all its very slight. Could it be that my TPS isnt perfectly dialed in and if I play with it a bit more it could find the right spot?

Thanks for the info

 

Thanks,

I bought my 4runner in highschool and have been building it since then. Time and money I have seen dissapear but its been so much fun to work on. I love the outdoors and wheeling is so much fun. Ya it has its crap moments like even now. It does run but I still have some kinks to work out to make it run how I want it too.

Thanks for the compliments on it and I look forward to seeing a build thread like it thats all yours to add those pics too

Ill get some more up soon

 

hey fill i got a major problem with my truck and unfortunately they wont ship it if it wont start. when my father in law turns the key all he hears is a couple of clicks and then the electrical shuts off. the battery is fully charged but the positive terminal has alot of corrosion on it. any ideas???????? please

 

def clean the terminal!!!!

 

agreed ive ran into an issue like that and i replaced the starter and it turned out to be the terminals. clkean them first if not just replace them with some new ones. They are cheap. Let us know if that helps first

 

This is a tricky one to try and diagnose over the internet but overall there should be absolutely no abnormalities or jumps in the TP sensor as it moves through its ranges from idle to WOT. Im sure you have a multimeter, get some T-pins and back probe the connector to the TP sensor and watch the voltage on the multimeter as you move it through its range, do this very slowly and look for any points at which it quickly drops to OL or spikes. This is really really hard with a cheap multimeter because they sample so slowly, being why the DSO is needed because it actually shows you a voltage graph and can sample down to nano-seconds per devision. In your case i would test both the TP sensor and the MAF using this method (MAF sensor must be tested with vehicle running at different engine speeds to see voltage changes).

Not sure what your getting at when you say TPS dialed in? Do you actually have it apart so that you can see the potentiometer on the inside?

tomorrow i will look at some old charts ive saved from testing sensors on my truck and see if i can give you some info and test points, ill also yank my MAF while its running and see what happens. We pulled the MAF on a friends Tacoma several weeks ago and it threw a few codes and stalled the vehicle, though i have been able to get mine to run without a MAF before but i cant remember what changes were noted.

If you have any local autoshops that might be willing to do you a favor have them pull up some PIDs with a scantool and see if the PCM is receiving the GPM reading from the MAF, and if it is getting the intake air temperature reading aswell. If they arent showing up yank the sensor and see if STFT and LTFT (fuel trims) change at all, if not the sensor or wiring is faulty.

 

Thanks Ill have to try some of those tests tonight. Ive got a MAF at a Autoshop were I know one of the guys working there. He said its all mine if I want it. Im gonna throw it in and if it doesnt change anything the guy said he could bring up a scan tool to let me borrow. I should have it all sorted out tonight as to whats wrong so will see and Ill be sure to let you know if any of that works out for me. Thanks for all that info as it should come in real handy for me. Unfortunatly I dont have the best multimeter nor any real scan tools. Its good to know people

Thanks ill try that

 

Well the new MAF didn't change a thing with the throttle response and to add to the symptoms I pulled all my spark plugs and they were coated in a black soot/ slightly oily residue. I cleaned them all real good but im pretty sure im gonna need new plugs anyway as they have had gas on them a few times back when the motor would flood out instantly. I took it down to schucks to run the code reader on it and it brought up the MAF circuit malf. p0100 again and would not let me reset it without it coming right back up with themotor running. It had blinkin: HTR,02's and Cat. Since this is a trailer rig I dont have a Cat in it but I do have both O2 sensors in. Maybe the code is being thrown for the MAF Circuit because there is no Cat? Thus the blinking Cat,02 and HTR which all have to do with 02 sensor post Cat.

They guy at the auto shop had a similar problem with his 3.4 swapped pickup occur because he was sold the older model MAF(torpedo looking one) when he needed the small bolt into the intake tube style MAF. He thinks I may need that kind of MAF and im going to talk to toyota on monday about it to find out if I was sold the wrong ECU to match what I asked for.

Im going to try and test my TPS tomorrow as thats definitely the next step in testing what could be wrong.

Frustration mounts again but at least im closer

Any more thoughts?

Ive just got to get this thing back on the trails again

 

Today I brought my truck to Mike down at Autosys in Redmond. Hes a great mechanic with a sick supercharged 3.4 swapped pickup.

We went through some testing to figure out why I kept pulling a p0100 code for a MAF malf. It turns out Im not getting a 12v source to the MAF however I do right after the EFI relay There must be a wire thats loose or disconected feeding that power to the MAF. Im going to do some quick splicing to see if I can get that power to the MAF. We ran a small lead off the relay to the MAF giving it the power and got the truck to run how it should. I think ive got it all figured out and ill let you all know in a bit here if it works so wish me luck

 

Wow Fill you weren't kidding about a 14 page build thread! Glad I ran into you again - hope you get it running solid for next weekend.

 

hey fill thanx it was the battery not cranking out enough amps. thanx so much, you saved me a massive head ache. Glad to hear everything is coming together finally for ya. Cant wait ta see that thing in action. i will be starting my build as soon as this things arrives from toronto. anywho, congrats again.