fillsrunner4

Heres the build of my 94 4runner. Its been years in the works but is very close to being an unstopable machine on the trails. Dial up be warned because its gonna have alot of pics

A little bit about my 4runner... I bought it stock with an Auto tranny and stock 3.0 V6 on 29's soon i upgraded to some 31 but that wasnt enough I read online for months and came to the conclusion i wanted to SAS it. I did with AllPro's 5.5" kit and did a Rear 56" leafs swap aswell. Air locked rear 35's and a few other misc things
To this day my list is as follows (liable to change anytime )

Engine:
96 T100 3.4 swapped Rebuilt first
T-100 Oil pan
Downey Headers
Custom Crossover
2.5" Straight exhaust with Flowmaster
AEM custom Intake
URD Crankshaft Pulley
Lincoln 4.6 V8 Electric 2speed radiator Fan
Optima red top
Custom Wiring Harness

Drivetrain:
Self Rebuilt R150f 5 speed swap
Dual T/C's MC10R10 stock gearing in both
85' solid axle trussed, geared, Lonfield 30 spline axles, Drive flanges and Air locked
Rear axle trussed, geared and Welded
5.29's
High angle Drivelines

Suspension:
Allpro front and Rear springs
5" front and 5.5" 56" long rear (rear springs minus overload leaf)
Bilsteins 5150's Front and 5125's Rear
Hy-Steer

Tires and Wheels:
37x14 Iroks
black Procomp Wheels 15X10 2.5 BS I believe I have it

Other cool stuff:
Marlin Sliders
Flatbelly with Custom crossmember
Custom center console and shifters
Ford gas tank in rear between frame rails with custom skidplate
Sparco Sprint 5 seats front
Chopped and bobbed
Power steering Cooler

Towing:
1998 Chevy 1500 Long bed
Small block 5.7 350
21' Home Build Trailer
Dual Axle
Widened 6"
Built brakes
Built suspension


EDIT I found this pic of my 4runner after i added some MT's, nerf bars and grill gaurd. (Sometime in 03

Heres what it looked like after the SAS (sorry about some of the pic quality most pics were taken by my phone)

After wheeling it for some time the tired Auto 3.0 had enough.
Sooooooooooo
I bought this (and yes it pissed on me like a new baby

Not long after that Baby matured into this

Then it found its new home here

Heres what it looks like now showing some of the flex, skid and sliders (dont mind the dangling wires there tucked away now and the blue tape is future cutting including back window )

Now (5-25-08)


More pic's and details to come in a bit but heres a start
ENJOY

fillsrunner4

Ok some updated pics and upgrades ive done to make this 4runner a true offroad machine.

Since the Motor weighs in a bit more with the 3.4 and my 4runner isnt light I added some more strength in the front by adding an upper truss and i also bought some nuckle gussests from trail gear that i will add as soon as i buy some 30 spline Longs Once i do this i will also probably switch out my Air Locker from the back and put it in the front and weld the rear. This will save me more in the end buy not having to buy another locker plus give me the selectability in the front which would be nice for turning

Since i trussed the front i also decided to add some more strenth in the rear by trussing it aswell. In this pic you can also see how the new gas tank fits between the frame rails. Its a ford 19gallon tank with box i made for it for protection. Since its a plastic tank it needed to be strapped down. Its all made out of 1/8" steel exept for the mounts which i believe i made out of 3/16" plate. The tank sits directly above the axle so i need to fab up some new shock mounts. Ill post them as soon as i get them in.

One thing about the rear truss is that the breather line is located on the driverside outer tubing so i added a breather in place of the sensor plug on my v6 diff. I bought a new freeze plug drilled it out and welded a hose line to it and will run a new breather line from that
Heres some pics on the tank box and mounting for it

Test Fitting.

I reused my stock toyota fuel pump by modding the fords sending unit a bit to make mine work with it. This took a bit to rewire aswell but it was easy. Ive yet to figure out if the fuel gauge will work with the fords style floaty so far no luck so i guess for now ill definelty need to carry spare fuel at the trails. I may go with an aftermarket gauge or look back at the wiring of it and see if i can figure it out

Also the ford tank has a hole on the top perfect for the toyotas rollover valve the goes to the charcoal canister

Youll have to cut out a few crossmembers to put a tank like this in. Luckily i converted to springs before this step so on this day cutting was minimal. Since i cut the main crossmember in the back I needed to add one somewere else in order to keep my frame stong so added a new one to the very rear of the vehicles frame rail and out of the way of my new tank. Sorry i dont have a pic of it at this moment

In this pic you can see 3 bolts used. The two outer are smaller 2"length and the middle is a 5" long bolt so if i want to lower the tank to work on the fuel pump i can without dropping the whole tank making life much easier if it went out

You can see it fits pretty good in there

The whole idea about moving the gas tank to the rear like this was to add ground clearence in the middle of the truck. Before the tank hung down about 5" or so and was an easy target to get stuck on out on the trail. So i did some research and found the ford 19 gallon tank fits perfect in the back of 4runners with leafs. I was originaly going to but a fuel cell in the back of my 4runner but i like to carry lots of gear in it too so this gave me the ability to do so. Lots of cutting and welding is involved to do this but i think its a great way to gain some cleaence and hell i think it looks pretty sick

Ill add some more pics of the motor rebuild, drivetrain Flatbelly, and other misc mods ive done to turn this thing into a rockcrawling machine. So until then ive got some to do haha

Elvota

Great looking truck. I like that gas tank mod.

Would be nice to have some extra capacity as well as ground clearance. I may have to look into something like that once I get mine running again.

fillsrunner4

Thank you

Ya it adds alot to the clearence and looks pretty cool under there. Now after my flatbelly you can look under the frame and all you see is drivelines. Its real cool. Ill post pics of it soon and how i did it all.

I still need to figure out my 3.4 problem aswell and get it running. Ive got a shop down in Redmond that im gonna tow it to. Theres a huge Yota guy there that i go talk to a few times a week and have wheeled with a few times. There gonna let me use there hella$$$ scan tool to see if i cant pin point my issues. Im thinking MAF and hopping thats all it is but ill see. im out of town this weekend and its gonna be raining for days so time is limited to try and figure it out until next week

idayota

looks good. can't wait to see some underbelly pictures. nice work.

AxleIke

Looks AMAZING man! Great work!

Question about the fuel tank. What model ford did it come out of? Also, aside from the sending unit, was everything else just bolt and go? All the fuel lines, and return and presssurized EFI crap?

Again, GREAT looking truck.

Kiff

I have been thinking about going with the ford tank in the back, but keeping the stock tank for a dual tank setup for long drives. Are you just using the stock filler location?

fillsrunner4

Thanks guys

ill find all the specs on the gas tank on exactly which one it was. It was an earlier ford f150 tank. I originaly bought one and the hole for the sending unit was way to small to fit my fuel pump into. Again ill find what exact years work best for it.

As for lines i ran all new ones when i did my 3.4 swap (same tube size which was bought at summit racing)all are in about the same stock location but longer becuase the sending unbit sits in the very back of the vehicle. I used the stock rollover valve(pressurizing unit) and it fits perfect in the top of the tank(hole was existing for a similar ford piece). I then took its cap trimmed the edges to make a better seal. then used 4 small screws and some gasket sealer to seal it off nice.

(Edit) The tank is an 1985-1996 ford Pickups 19 gallon with rear tank. Runs on froogle for about 100-200 mines made of a plastic material. Also one more note I took the wiring harness and cut it to reuse the toyota plug for the pump. and it will take some rewiring of the ford sending unit to make it work but its real easy to figure out

fillsrunner4

I could use the stock filler location but im gonna move it back a few inches to make a straight shot to the tank. Ill fill in the original spot with sheet. The tank sits a bit farther back so this might be my easiest bet. Also the stock filler tube is smaller than the fords inlet so ill upgrade sizes of filler neck at this time. Ive yet to finish that step with the tank.

As for underbelly pics ill post them shortly also ill include a pic of the sending unit and lines from were they sit in the truck

AxleIke

Sorry to keep bugging you, but I REALLY want to do that same tank in the rear of my truck. Can you tell me how far down from the bed of the body (underside) the bottom of the tank+skid sits? I'd just like to start measuring mine out...

Second, do you have any issues with filling from the stock filler place, or are you just moving it to have less tube underneath and make it look cleaner?

Thanks, and again, great build.

fillsrunner4

I do have room to run lines to the stock filler location but difference in size of tubing from the inlet to the smaller filler tube this is the easiest route that i see.

And its no problem at all. The tank skid from frame side to side is 33" wide at the top and 32" wide at the bottom the skid it 5 1/4" tall the tank inside the skid sits aobut 10" tall and still has plenty of room above it(maybe 1 1/2" in the back of the truck and farther forward becomes more room because the tank is slopped like that). The sides of the skid measure 26" at the top and 25 at the bottom and as far as where the skid sits in the frame rails its 7 1/2" forward of the farthest park of the frame rails.

Let me know if you need anymore details on it and ill try and get them for you.

fillsrunner4

If you look to the very back of the frame youll see the new crossmember made to replace the cut out pieces that would have interfered with the tank.

Its a rectangle piece of tubing i believe i used 1/8" think and as far as dimensions it fit into the open c-channel. Its ~41x3x1" and welded tot the very rear of the frame rails

Edit more pics

fillsrunner4

Ok so since i am using the stock R150F tanny i wanted to keep the chain driven case instead of buying two gear driven cases. The chain is weaker (although it can withstand v8 power so ill try it for now) Also ill use my reduction box more than the rear case gears. There is no skidplate made yet for the MC10R10 (atleast im aware of) So i decided to build my own.



I also wanted to make it a very low profile unit so i decided to completly flat belly my entire transmission and t/cases.
It takes alot of cutting so heres the hole i made for it to fit
Front (i actualy trimmed the sides down a bit more while building the tunnel)

Back Also keep in mind this was an auto before

T/Case front output.

With the raise in the transmission especialy on the passenger side stock seats can not be used so i will be buying some new ones shorlty and im thinking about the Mastercraft Sportsman but im still undecided on that. What do those of you who have different seats have and like? I need skinny and low profile so i can mount it high enough on the pass side to clear over the t/case and not have it so tall your head is through the roof

idayota

i like the idea a lot!! cant wait to see how it turns out working for you. what have you decided to do for your rear shock mounts?

fillsrunner4

I like the fact i can look under the truck and only see drivelines. The angles look a bit steep. im running a double cardon upfront and a High angle driveline in the rear with just u-joints. I hope it wont vibrate to bad but hell im gonna be offroading Ill be posting mor pics of the crossmember and more soon as i have the time to fill out a post on them (i cant tonight but will see about tomorrow) I know you want to see those pics haha Ive also got to finish the tunnel im building but its been crappy outside so when i get the chance with that ill update pics on that aswell.

As for rear shocks Im gonna mount them on the inner side of the axle and make a mount in front of the new tank. Ive yet to finish the mount but im gonna mount them kinda like / \ but not so steep of angles like i had before. The shocks will also lean forward a bit but thats ok. Ive got 5150's in front and 5125's for the rear both 12"

AxleIke

Awesome man, thanks for the tank dimensions. I'll have to check that out on mine.

I'm also REALLY glad you posted the pics of your flat belly set up. I had considered going flat with mine, but now that I see that you need to cut out THAT much to actually get it flat, even with the R10, I'm not going to do it. I'll just rotate, but not lift.

Thank you again!

fillsrunner4

Ya to cut as much as i did was insane but i wanted complete flatbelly. The crossmember actualy is up from the frame about 1/8". You could always cut less and still get some lift in the center section and gain some ground clearence.

My only concerns are that a tall 4runner and heavy top plus added weight a bit higher after may be a bit much. I do have a very wide stance compared to what i had with my 35's so im not actualy too concerned with it. I plan to maybe remove a leaf from the front and back and add a bit longer shackle in the back also cut out the back window and fully cage it (in time of course haha)

Lots of work is going into this project but in time it will be a machine out on the trails again and more. Feel free to ask questions and enjoy the thread ive got tons of pics to come and work to do on it

Hayes

This rig is awesome...

fillsrunner4

Ok so after all the cutting and grinding to make the hole for my flatbelly ill have to cover it. Heres a few pics of the tunnel im building for it. The sides will be covered with sheet most likely all removable for easy tranny access. Youll notice i welded to the body and toyota uses a three layer sound deadning hard rubber type material that is a pain to try and grind off to reach the bare metal. It will just melt and stick to everything plus reek. I found that grabbing it with pliers and twisting it a bit and also using a seal scrapper and hammer works quit nicely to get under it and then it cracks right off.

In order to use my stock shifter i had to dogleg it some. I cut out a section of the shifter and rewelded it in with a dogleg. It clears in all gears perfectly. In the pic above you can see it would have interfered with the dash had i kept it stock. I also added a Hurst shift nob too it haha im thinking about painting it too

I may use a piece of plexi to cover the top in the back so that passangers can look at the driveshaft haha

Tunnels still got some work to do like alot of things, but ill keep updating as quickly as i can

fillsrunner4

Thank you i appreciate the complements greatly