AxleIke

Tunnel looks awesome! Are you concerned about body flex being an issue with that much floor removed, or does it feel pretty solid? Hard to tell if it would make any difference from the pics

I'm assuming you're lifting the engine to match. Obviously you've got the 3.4, but I gotta ask, how much is going to come out of the hood?

Its funny, i know a guy who's got a Drivetrain lift, and he covered the hole with a hood scoop. Looks really nice. One time this jerkoff asked him if his hood scoop was functional, in a really sarcastic tone. He replied, "you bet. Can't close the hood without it." Made my whole week right there.

Sorry for the diatribe, but yeah, interested in both cuts out of the hood, and a pic of the bell housing, and if you'll need to cut in order to do the clutch.

fillsrunner4

Haha thats good with the fuctionality. Yes the motor is just as high and the hole is pretty big. I bought a summit scoop to cover it and ill post the pics in a moment for you.

As for body flexing im not to concered because im gonna beef it up more aspecialy when i add the new seat mounts. My buddy had an issue with his but he never added support for his. Ive got support via my new crossmeber behind my tranny xmember ill get a pic of for you. Also with just the suport in the pics its already pretty solid

As for a cut for the clutch master i bought a bracket off a fellow member that includes both brake and clutch pedals. This bolts directly to the auto mounts and i drilled the holes using that as a guide for me. The clutch is bleed and ready to go and should work great. In order to do the auto to 5speed swap youll have to run the hard lines as well as the soft flex line and i did mine out of all new tubing that was stock size. Ill get some pics for you of most this stuff in one moment

fillsrunner4

Yes i know its a huge hole but hey it works for me

Bondo works not the best but ill fix that later maybe not really a big deal. The sticker looks like its on fire just the way i like it haha

Hood now closes all the way no problem And yes its functional

Heres a pic of the bellhousing for ya


One more things about the engine being up this high is it gives more room behind to get all hoses and tranny bolts for that matter that much easier. I used stock 3.4 mounts so the motor isnt really raised except for tilting forward some

AxleIke

VERY nice...So, you can acutally get things in easier with everything being this high? That is AWESOME. Hmm. Gives me some more to think about. Thanks.

And the sticker looks great! I love it. Where did you have that made?

fillsrunner4

Ya it gives a bit more space to work easily behind the motor.

I got the sticker made from http://www.decaldriveway.com/

fillsrunner4

In order to mount my transmission i had to build a custom crossmember. No one makes one for the mc10r10 and i didnt want to keep the stock crossmember or even try and use it with this setup. I wanted to raise tranny up as high as possible and make more of a skidplate design capable of resting the weight of my vehicle if i ever became high centered or incountered some big rocks.

I used my engine crane to lift the tranny while i designed the skidplate

heres a pic of the tow straps i used with my lift to raise the tranny

I made some mounts to weld to the frame. I bought the actual tabs from Ballistic fab. you can see the tube with the bushings in it and thats how the crossmember will bolt to the mounts using a total of 4

With the Drivetrain raised i tached the mounts to the frame and built the front and back crossbars of the crossmember
(notice the frame crossmember in the back will have to be cut out. It is right in the way of the driveline. Ill show my fix in a bit


With the front and back mounts bolted in place i tacked some rails to conect the two. I also built the hoop for the front driveline but havent cut out the lower part yet until i fully weld everything

Next adding some flatplate. Ive fully welded the crossbars and everything and added a flateplate piece to the oneside. To make the tranny mounts i want them to not have any bolts exposed so rasing the tranny up some and cutting out a piece to fit with the holes for the tranny mount was next

fillsrunner4

Heres some pics of it under the truck also the crossmember i cut out and replaced. The crossmember is very heavy but VERY VERY strong



Can you see anything???

Haha I didnt think so

Heres the new crossmember for the frame support




My Rigs

As it sits today

The mat under the 4runner is a jeep cargo mat perfect for catching the craps my 4runner takes hahahaha
(Just wanted to EDIT in another veiw)

KevinInSac

That thing is clean. Great fab work man. Do you know how many hours you've logged so far?

fillsrunner4

Thanks and Enough time lol its my life and ive had it since Senior year in high School and im 22 now. As for hours its really unknown but ive been building it for the last 3 years and I work on it alot and do pretty much all the work on it I can. I rebuilt the whole underside, alxes, tranny, t/cases, motor, ect... I learned it without school and all theat stuff so im pretty impressed with what ive done so far and i only see it getting better

fillsrunner4

Ok so you may think that the exhaust has nowhere to go with it that skid plate?

Well i made it work

First off if you buy downey headers, dont get it with the egr for a 3.4 swap. Im sure youve read before about this issue (egr will interfer with steering) and i did know it was going to be a problem but i bought mine from performance products while they were on sale and didnt order the right year without it I took it to a shop cause i didnt have my welder yet so the plug looks like crap (youd think a pro exhaust welder could do better )
Oh well
Heres a pic of the mod to make it work

Heres the crossover being worked on

and bolted in

and another


Now i used a flex pipe right behind the y-pipe to help with engine movement
then i solidly mounted it to the crossmember in back of my tranny crossmember
Note in this pic that i have 2 more body mounts that help support the body from flexing after cutting out so much of my floor
Also the solid mount for the exhaust is a exhaust clamp also welded to the crossmember

Body and exhaust mounts

Flowmaster muffler

The exhaust runs close to the body so i double heat wrapped it to protect from the heat some

fillsrunner4

I know axleike wanted to see some pics of the tank's sending unit area and space between body so heres a few pics of that for you

In order to mount it as high as i did you will need to pound the body suport a bit you can see it in the pic. Drivers side looking towards the front of the vehicle (alos notice the zip ties represent the back of the tank in this view)

Drivers side looking forward and across

Pass side looking back

kylextrisler

that is... everything i want
awesome work my man

fillsrunner4

It can all be yours if the price is right

HAHAHA no sale

Thanks man

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Awesome work, looks great..I like the idea of people being able to see the driveshaft. If you got that route I would suggest using a piece of Lexan or Makrolon. In case something broke, plexi just would not have that much protection, plus if someone stepped on it, it would just crack..

fillsrunner4

Thanks for the advice on that. My buddy could get me a piece of plexi from school but i may just have to go with the lexan idea.

The rest of the tunnel hopefully will be done this week ive got to get some sheet. I was working on it till it rained on me today . Ill post it up as soon as its done

fillsrunner4

I know you also wanted to see the cut for the clutch pedal so here ya go.
When i did all my clutch work i had my dash completly apart. At this time i had my wiring at my freinds dads shop were i was working on it for my 3.4 swap.
Dash before


Dash apart with 3.4 block in the background

Almost all the wiring and everything else out

You can see the brake pedal connection

To cut this holes i mounted up the pedal braket and marked the holes to cut.
After the cut i used a hole saw to finish it off

outside pic

You can see the new master cyl. I bought from Marlin mounted and plumbed.

you can see the manual proportioning valve i bought from FROR as you can see its a summit unit but it came with everything needed to work with my toyota brake master. Also Check out were i change my oil makes life easy haha

Another shot

Doing the 5speed swap i think was the best thing i could have done. Hell i should have done it while i had the 3.0. the Auto really held me back. To do it is really not that hard at all and i would recomend anyone that doesnt want an auto to do this swap. You can find a r150f or r151f (lower stock gearing but youll need the r150f bellhousing for the 3.0) I recomend the r150f because of cost and avalability. Youll need a clutch and brake pedal assembly from a like year model vehicle, clutch master and slave and hard and soft lines to work with. Great part of my swap and again im glad i did it

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Forgot to mention: I want your truck!

fillsrunner4

Like i said before not for sale

yotasavg

sick build. i love the belly

AxleIke

You've convinced me, this tank conversion is on the list now...

Thank you so much for detailing your build. This is SICK man. Simply awesome.