fillsrunner4

Haha thats awesome Thanks again for the compliments. Ill be building the rear shock bars today I hope so ill post pics as soon as thats done to show you how im doing that portion.

EWAYota

I think you need to move closer to me....

fillsrunner4

fillsrunner4

I worked some on my rear shocks today but ended once it got dark out. Heres what i did to run 12" shocks.(ive only got the one side mocked up right now hopefully ill finish tomorrow)

I wanted the shocks on the axle to be as high as possible as to not hang up on rocks on the trail. keep in mind that my tank hangs over the axle some so I also had to mount them on the inner side. I didnt want my shocks like /\ because it doesnt really help if anything it gets rid of the entire purpose of the shocks. I did want them more verticle. They lean forward just a bit and are kinda / \ (nothing like i had before which is good)
I bought the tabs for the axle and upper mounts from a local shop

I did cut the floor in order to mount them more verticle. I wasnt wanting to but after thinking about it i decided to do it. Im happy i did because it makes the shocks more functional and looks alot cooler if you ask me.

Another nice part about this is that it will be easy to cover the shock tower because the back panels dont have that three layer crap like for the tranny tunnel and can easily be welded to.

My friend Eric haha. notice the bar goes allthe way across, this was only so i could weld the sides. I then cut and angled(so the shocks wont hit anywere) the bars going up into the body and then built a new cross bar onto that.


A little welding

Upper cross and mount (all is tacked so i can fully weld after I build upper and lower mounts for both sides)


So i still have to build the other side fully weld and box off the ends and build the cover in the bed. Ill get most of this done tomorrow if the weather holds again for me
One more note... If you buy shocks with the staps like the bilstiens come with its a great reference to build off because they are set midway

fillsrunner4

BTW my old 5150's are still for sale $125 plus shipping and they could be all yours

fillsrunner4

So the rain felt like falling all day today so work on the 4runner was at a stand still until the weather desides to be nice to me the only positive is that its snowing up in the mountains

When i decided to do a 5speed swap i did alot of thinking and research about what yota tranny to use. It was actualy an easy decision because the two best are the r150f and r151f. The 151 has a lower first gear but since i also planned on using dual t/c's i didnt need it. Also using the 151 youll need a 150 bellhousing. I desided on the r150f because its simple, strong and a friend of mine was selling one so that made it easy.(only down side is it has a chain drive case but they are plenty stong even behind a V8 so like i said earlier ill try it ) I picked it up real cheap and with the money saved i decided to rebuild it. I was going to go with Marlins rebuit trannies and use this as a core but my friend Eric helped me and opend my eyes on how easy it is to rebuild your own. (so much was learned also by doing it myself which im so glad i did)
I said the hell with it and began tearing it down. Thanks Eric

When i bought it

Bellhousing

T/C off and Input pic

Transfer Case Its even got the original marks from after being torqued. That or its been rebuilt before

More info and pics in a moment

fillsrunner4

Front bearing retainer off

Front Transmission Case off

Gears look good

Side view

At this step I took it to Redmond Transmission to have them check the Syncros.(Erics dad owns a cabinet shop right next door so they checked it for me
Everything was good yet the syncros could be replaced. I went with Marlins rebuild kit with heavy duty retaining bearing cover.
Back side of transmission / 5th gear

Note Use of a bearing puller, press and snap ring plieres are required to rebuild a tranny. Output shaft rear Bearing and sleeve removed

This is the step were rebuilding gets tricky. Not to scare you but this is why anyone would say a rebuild is hard

This is why its hard because you must keep track of the springs and roller balls or youll be screwed if you lose them. Be sure you take lost of pics or have a good set of diagrams to remember how to place apon reasembly. Also the syncro Keys are important to not loose (sorry no pics of them)

Shift rails all removed

Input and output shaft removed with gears

fillsrunner4

The input and output shaft come right apart form each other.

Pic of the press puller

Zip locks, labeling and numbering helps greatly oh yeah and pics

Output shaft

At this point i replaced all syncros and bearings and then pressed it all back together. Sorry i didnt tank to many more pics of the install but its basicaly just like dissesembly.
Check out this site. It has tons of info for the r150f rebuild and some pics of all the pieces
http://www.deserted1.com/FSM/Repair_...1/mta/comp.pdf
I hot tanked the tranny cases and they turned out pretty clean Pic is of the tranny and t/cases cleaned and in order to were they will be apon reasembly


Picked up my reduction box with gears for $25 I replaced the bearings in it and kept stock gears but upgraded to 23 spline input shaft for the new power

Full drivtrain with MC10R10 and V6 adapter is Built and ready to Crawl
With the 3.4 swap i used Marlins HD clutch kit and used all 3.0 parts for it. I did get a 3.4 throwout bearing but with the use of an older r150f requires the use of a shorter bearing(my tranny was from an 88' use the bearing for your tranny not motor like i did I have since replaced it and am good to go there As for the flywheel i used LCE's heavy flywheel which weighs over 40lbs which also didnt help when i had the 3.4 bearing since the flywheel is about 2.5" or so Very wide but awesome. Its gonna be hard to stop this thing

idayota

thanks for tearing into that tranny...that takes some serious courage and definitely makes me think twice about tearing into my own. good work!

fillsrunner4

Ya i had researched alot about it and was dead set on using this tranny as a core for a rebuilt Marlin tranny. I saved so much money that went towards other things by doing it myself. This and like the wiring I did for my 3.4 swap instead of buying ORS's kit also saved me $$$. I figure if this is going to be my hobby i might aswell spend some time and money to do as much of it as I can myself. So far so good plus ive got some new skills and knowlegde I never thought possible.

As for the rebuild its actualy really easy. Step by step i took pics of the entire tear down that and labeled the ziplocks very well. This helped alot when it came time to rebuild also that site i posted has helped with it aswell. I was scared at first but my friend is really good at doing this stuff and he helped me the entire process. This was his first time with a tranny also so i was scepticle but i trust him. I could do a rebuild in a day easy now, maybe even in a few hours.

I say if you can (have the time/money/want to) you can do anything Also reaserch, read and learn as much as you can aspecialy with your hobbies. This will save money in the long run and give you loads of knowlegde which is as good as gold

fillsrunner4

Today the rain held for me (it was damn cold though) so i decided to get some work done on my rear shocks. Ive got both mounted and they work great. I test flexed my suspension and made sure the shocks had no binding or contact with anything. They will work great like this. They are mounted at a 75 degree angle instead of the ~45 i had before. this will help some with body roll and also give me a bit more travel ability that my 10" i used to have. Shocks are best mounted straight up and down on oposite sides but this will work and is pretty much the only way i could mount mine so its going to have to work
or its back to the drawing board

Uper mount



Back view

Front view. Sorry the pics are kinda blurry. The pics were taken with my phone Im going to add a piece of flat plate to the botom of the lower shock mounts so if i drop onto the mounts they will hit the plate instead of the shock. Ive still got to do this soI may go out here in a min and finish that while theres light

I may have to shorten the exhaust also to get it farther away from the shocks but it may be good. Ill figure that out later

fillsrunner4

So with the rest of my light i quickly fabbed the lower shock mount protection. Its kinda crappy welds but hell it'll work


I plan on going coils and links in the near future (just like everyone says ) the project never ends.
Hell my new motor will probably be replaced with more power at some point but in the mean time this suspension, drivetrain and motor combo should work great

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

So I understand the deal with the plastic gas tank needing to be strapped down and with 3 straps it seems to be pretty secure. Wondering though how well the nylon straps will hold up against the metal edge of the tank tray? do you have some kind of buffer material between the strap and the metal to alleviate wear? Just wondering.

Overall awesome job..wish I had the time and skills..

fillsrunner4

Thats a good point i dont have a buffer yet but i do plan to add some to it. Im not to concerned at the time because it doesnt really move at all but ill add some once i start wheeling again very soon.
Thats a very good point and Thanks for the input

fillsrunner4

Rain Rain Rain has plauged the Northwest like it does all winter long so work on my 4runner is at a stand still till i catch some breaks. I should have just left it in the garage but I have no room in there so outside it was forced. It doesnt help that i keep buying more and more tools loosing more and more space

The only way it semi fit was when it was like this in the garage

Doors, hood, and seats were placed on top of the truck to make space

I just wanted to add this pic because i think it looks awesome without doors pics with new 37's and i had to start keeping it outside


Before

After

I love a clean work area
This small part of the garage was were i did my SAS and rear leaf conversion install. not much room but ive seen less

Im about to share my motor swap part of the build right after i finish uploading some pics so stay tuned

fillsrunner4

First off the tired and detroyed 3.0 had to go (its an ugly site haha the motor that is )

And its out

Looks to me like the engine bay needs some cleaning

When i bought my motor it had a chopped harness no ecu and the owner only new it was from a T-100. If i could start all over again i would not have even messed with this motor but on the other hand it helped me understand alot about this motor. Aspecialy in the wiring

I bought the motor and since the guy didnt know much about it i didnt just want to throw it in without rebuilding it and at least changing the head gaskets.

(Edit pic with manifolds on)

Side view block is pretty rusty

Intake manifolds

Drivers side cams. If you look down the spark plug hole youll see some more rust (this motor obvioulsy sat for some time which is one reason why i myself sometimes)

This is were most all the rust was

And heads off. Good amount of carbon build up but Cyl. walls look real good.


Before this point I had some concerns about if my manual tranny would work with this motor.(I searched the tps part number and a few other part numbers and found it was from no newer than a 97 T-100 and the cut harness had Auto tranny wires so its from an auto) I read alot about how it needed the pilot bearing hole in the crankshaft in order to work becuase other than that the bellhousing patterns are the same auto to manual.
Heres a pick of the pilot bearing to make sure it fit

and flush view


More in a bit

fillsrunner4

Once i got the motor torn down and the heads off I decided that since I dont know enough about this motor and I wanted to learn more and also make a reliable motor I decided to tear everything out and rebuild it from bottom to top
Crankshaft retainer

Crank, rods, and pistons all out

Its very important to keep track of the bearing caps and all things like bolts and pistons, ect and were they go. I take lost of pics when i dive into these projects so your only seeing some of the better ones i have. This will help if you lose somthing or need a reference. Just like the transmission rebuild ziplocks and markers make for a happier ending
Once here i took the block to a machine shop to get it hot tanked and cleaned. it didnt take it all off and i wanted to paint the block so the wire wheel was also in order (blocks starting to look a bit better )

Fresh paint goes with the black and red color scheme of my truck (note be sure to add the freezplugs befor painting i learned the hard way problem was since corrected and fixed)

Looks pink but thats just the light

Paint was a high temp ceramic engine paint
No more rust


Cylinder Honing

Nice cross hatching

All cylinders done and now motor is ready to be put back together

fillsrunner4

OK so lets try this again (i hate Comps sometimes aspecialy when your about to post and it exits the site) (Smily is the comp)

Ok so with the block cleaned and painted its time to work on the heads.
Heads off You can see the carbon and a bit of rust and that the previous owner used platnum 4's


To remove the valves and springs an SST is required as the heads arent like chevys and roller rocker style heads. The rollers are like a cap over the spring and are a genious design to were every roll over of the cam the top of the cap rotates. (the cap has a bearing like piece on top of it that rotates creating an even wear and prolonged life) Im not going to show my friend Erics tool he made to help and save me some money for this process as I think he should patent the design.

All valves guides and springs removed

Close up

Note apon reasembly you need to install the guides in a specific way as the exhaust and intake use different guides although they look very similar. Look in your manuals for the correct instalation because its important to put them in the right way and on the right sides.

I took the heads to get resurfaced then i polished the heads intake and exhaust ports for faster and smother airflow
thus creating more power

yotasavg

wow! amazing detail, great work

fillsrunner4

Thanks yotasavg

Bottom end being being reasembeled all new bearings. Be sure to lube all parts apon reasembly of bearings and other metal on metal surfaces.
Crank back in

Crank retainer and bearings

And on

front view


Use of a 2wd T100 works great. I bought this new with pickup, pan, dipstick and a few misc parts form Sky-Manufacturing for a great low price
Pistons, splash shield and pickup tube installed

New pan on. Be sure to clean the bottom off of all the old seal before installing the new pan and its seal to assure proper sealing