fillsrunner4

When I was thinking about how I wanted to run my intake, It was a no brainer it needed to be high. I will in time make a snorkle for it but until I make it im not going to explain it because, One ive never seen one like it and two im still trying to design it This intake will do great for now and i dont plan to cross to deep of mud pits because I hate mud after its already destoyed alot of things and its not worth the damage it can cause. Granted I will have to cross them but the way I set up my intake will work great for the time being. Its an AEM dryflow filter and I made the tubing for it and mounted it as high as posible and away from the front. I will also make a switch for the electric fan to help during river and mud pic crossings so the fan wont be on and pull in more mud and water than already will come in.

Dont mind the loose nuts and bolts Also notice the use of the stock 3.0 thottle cable

fillsrunner4

Another shot

Below is my Evap can. The older 3.4's used a similar syle can not like the rectangle ones in the newer models so I just used my original because it works the same and doesnt need the sensors to work.(this is why ORS says Evap can from the 3.4 is optional because the 22re's and 3.0's are the same and do the job just as well) Its the same concept. Sucking gas evapatartion out of the tank and recycling it (so to say) back into the intake thus reusing vapor to aid in combustion and increased fuel economy (it also takes un needed pressure out of the tank)
I mounted it below the Intake. The 3.0 comes with two and i used one and cut the brakets off the other and welded it to make mounting brackets on the one used. Its bolted in two spots (sorry if that doesnt make sence but one "can" uses 3 lines and thats the one to use. Its marked with tank and purge on top and has a hose on the bottom)

One line goes to the tank, one to the intake/throttle body(purge) and the lower hose goes into a hole in the frame as a breather
Small hose is purge and big hose it to the tank

yotasavg

words of wisdom.

fillsrunner4

Damn Mud

fillsrunner4

My truck is still awaiting going down to the shop to check my codes (i know im lazy sometimes ) so in the mean time I figure ill post a bit on how I mounted my rock sliders.

I searched alot before I installed mine but never really got a detailed writup on the install so heres mine for ya with some good tips and a great way to mount them.
First I made a stop at Marlin Crawler

Marlin Himself

Box of Goodies Shirts, Stickers, Slider Arms and more

Sliders

First I measured the sliders Center and from center to the ends and centered them (if that makes snce) and cut the pinch welds to get the sliders as high as posible. Note mounting to a piece of 4x4 plate makes for more surface area distrabution on the frame and makes it stonger

I used my Engine Crane to lift the sliders and tach welded the center leg on to the slider. at a 21degree angle. The center leg from frame including 4x4 piece is ~7" to the slider. I used a string held by the door which dangled down the body over the door handle and to the ground. this gave me my body line. I extended the sliders about 1" to give me the upper protection and desired distance off the body

Doors all open without interefence with ~1/2" clearence

With the one leg held in place with clamps I was able to measure the remaining leg lengths

All legs on and welded fully and gusseted I painted with a protective primer

Next the final paint

Final product




Just thought Ide add this one. I added these little pieces to protect the perches and act as small sliders. Witht he sliders 4x4 pieces mounted it covers the small hole

There you have it a detailed way on how to do your sliders. Or atleast how I did mine

b.miller123

nice build up thread

sucks you can't do a S/C

fillsrunner4

Thanks

Ya i know it sucks but its nice I have the low range gears to help out on the trail. Just have to add in another damn LCE but oh well it happens

apalmer1

Wow, gota say this is one inspirational buildup How did you go about relocating the oil filter on the 5VZ? as in what fitting and tubing did you use? Ive been thinking of doing that and running a larger oil filter with a little aditional oil to help the flow, people have been saying good things about running big filters on the 22re's...

fillsrunner4

Thanks dude

I use a stock filter and i bought the relocation kit from http://www.performanceproducts4truck...222&pid=104381 You could actualy use this same kit for your oil cooler lines as well I believe. You could save money if you use this kit instead of the "Oil cooler kit" they sell and just get a cheap cooler. Just a thought to add in and a mod I may do later

Its works great and lets you add about 1 extra quart of oil. It makes changes easier and is a great addition I recomend to anyone. Its also easy to install and can be mounted just about anywhere

b.miller123

not to second guess you or anything, but alot of guys around here have noticed problems with the hoses on those filter relocation kits, they either fall off the ends or burst or something, I don't have one so I can't say for sure, but I've seen that alot of guys use replace the brass barbed fittings with threaded ones and then use the DIY lines with the stainless outside wraps, where you put the ends on yourself,

and they come in RED too

fillsrunner4

Heres a close up on the block of the relocation piece

I want to say its 3/4 tubing but dont hold me to that because i dont remember exactly

fillsrunner4

I know what you mean with the fittings they shrink in size as they go (into the tube, if the male is 2" long from the threads to end, they ago from 1/2" down to 1/4" Just as example NOTE: not the actual size but just to give an Idea of how the fitting shrinks)so replacing with a same thead pitch fitting thats not reducing size may be the way to go. I can see how the lines may burst or fall off so yes thats a good point. Ill have to watch that and update if changes are needed. But thats an easy fix

BTW you can get all lines in all different colors Red would be cool though

Thanks for the input

fillsrunner4

Agian waiting on getting the truck to that shop (although I have a trailer i may be getting any day ) One thing i have seen alot of out there is about running 5.29 gears and up are weak and should be avoided. Well the main reason is because the Pinion is smaller. I had this pick from a friends 3rd rebuild and thought ide share it
5.29 is on the left and stock 4.10 on the right

I run 5.29's and dont plan on changing until some day i go to Dana's or bigger. The 5.29's will hold up to 37's but maybe not any bigger. One plan I do intend to do is take the ARB locker from the rear and put it in the front and take the front out Weld it and put it in the rear. This rig is basicaly going to be a straight trailer rig so I see this as the best option for not only price but offroad ability. Granted two Ari lockers would be sick and give me more selectability but it could also lead to more problems on the trail not to mention cost $$$ I dont want to spend. Also I was thinking of putting a high pinion in the front but the driveline angles with duals and the cleaence only being an inch or two more I also find this as pointless.

Ill try to get some more work done on the tranny tunnel and shock covers and most importantly getting it running again. Once I do any more work ill share it but it may be a week or so before I post a whole lot more because progress becuase im going to be moving this next week so that may take alot of my time.

fillsrunner4

Sorry for alot of my posts going in reverse order but I found a cd with all my older pics off my comp while packing about my Solid Axle Swap and some before pics. I figure I might as well add to my build and give some help to those who have had the same questions ive once had

After i bought the truck stock on 29's I wanted to give it and offroad look (More what I thought offroad look was )
List of mods at this point:
CB
31x10.50 on 15" 3rd gen wheels
Smittybuilt nerf and pushbar
KC daylighters with 130watt blue bulbs
K&N intake
Flowmaster exhaust
Procomp 9000 shocks

This truck actualy did great like this until I got more and more into wheeling


I never thought i would ever get into wheeling as much as I did but searched for months and came to the conclusion that if I was going to wheel this rig, the stock IFS had to go and the IFS lift was out of the question(thank god i went SAS thats all I have to say)
I pulled it into my garage one day and got to cutting

Notice i had no tool box nor any good selection of tools going into this project
They were aquired as I went
Looked like this

Ended like this

fillsrunner4

I tore the axle down and gave it a fresh coat of paint

And rebuilt with 5.29 gears and Marlin rebuild kit

And difference in 3rds
5.29 left stock 4.10 right

In the mean time some more cutting was in order

And grinded down

fillsrunner4

Note I used Allpro Offroad's kit was used with 5"fronts and 5.5" rears with pearch kit and Johnny Joints
Front spring hanger bolted on

Note a pitman Arm puller was used but with my lack of knowledge at the time i didnt realize you tighten the puller, Hit the arm a few times with a hammer and tighten it more until it pops right off Sorry Napa when i destoyed there borrowed puller
Hole cut through the frame to make the front springs rear hanger

Some mock up

Front hanger fully welded

fillsrunner4

Finishing up the front axle was in order next.
1.5"wheel spacers on

Notice to be very careful while pressing on new rotors or this could happen.

Thankfully new ones are cheap


Anyway Axle hanging

Shock mounts on with 12" bilstien 5150's

Im always in the greatest of moods

fillsrunner4

35's on so its onto the rear


I went with the the leafspring conversion which im not 100% sure if I should have done but at the same time Ive been very pleased with it so far as it has amazing flex
Rear together

Unbolt the shocks and lower the axle slowly to remove the coils

Coils out obviously haha

Axle down and ready to be cut up All must go haha

And gone

fillsrunner4

Ok so this crossmember must go to make room for the uper shock mounts

And the control arm brakets must also be cut off the frame for the new spring hanger

New spring hanger

Johnny Joints welded on

Mount the new perches and prepare to weld to the axle. At this point its a great time to adjust the axle angle to give better pinion angle

axle under the truck. Theres more angle than it looks

Everything welded and tires on. Agian im extatic

Crappy rear shock mounts. Take a look at this and go back to how they are now in my thread and you see what I mean. The shocks actualy dont do even half there job like this. This is a partial reason why I had bad body roll in the back even though its a 4runner I should not have mounted them like this

fillsrunner4

How it sat

I think it was very skinny with the 12.5 35's on 8"wide wheels(i should have gone with 10" but this helped fit through some of the WA State tree trails




Out on the trails





I had some great times with it until the 3.0 ate the dust. I cant wait for the new power bigger tires and lower gears

So I went right through the SAS but if you have any questions about it or anything else going on with this project let me know and Ide be glad to help

More to come sometime in the near future