When I started this thread i should have added a dial up warning sign i think haha moderators if you could add this it may save some people. I like pics and I know alot of others do too so im gonna keep them coming

 

Picture of pistons back in and cleaned the best i could. I also bought a piston ring grove cleaner that worked great and i would recomend you do a good job cleaning them before installing the new rings. Also when installing the rings and using the ring compressor make sure you tighten it as much as you can. I chipped a new ring installing it and had to order more. Also they are installed in a specific order and directions

Heads back on


So before i got the heads bolted on I had ordered LCE head studs
I will not recomend there head studs and the reason being is in this post
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...buy-lc-110530/

Since the problem i had gone back to the original head bolts and had to have the entire side of my block helicoiled. Im pissed because this not only cost an ass load but it also ruined my chances of every going to a supercharger. Thanks alot LC CRAPINERING

Anyway again the problem is fixed for now so hopefully the coils will hold nicely. the machinest told me they should work great and i trust him and his companies work

Valve covers on. Cams installed.
Note: be sure to mark the cams teeth before removal so when you install the cams again they are placed in the exact same location they were when removed. I also noticed the cams could only be placed in there head and not vise versa

Lower manifold and timing cover backing plate on

Side view of coil packs

A few more pics on the engine rebuild after they load in a few mins

 

Intake manifolds on

Timing belt was installed and now its ready to be dropped in

Looks right at home and fits perfectly. I installed with transmission attached

It helped to install the tranny and engine easily like this

Stock radiator will be used with a Flex-A-Lite fan and Ill show you how to get rid or the pulley belt and bearing completly in another post.

 

With a Flex-a-Lite fan they claim more power because the engine doesnt have to turn the fan clutch in order to cool the motor. The electric fan helps not only eliminate the need for the clutch but also allows the motor to warm to running tempature quicker which is better for the motor. With no need for the fan clutch i didnt see the need for the bearing and use of the belt at all. I think this will give me that much more power (yes i know its so small a gain it doest really matter but if the bearing went bad it could destroy other parts around it.

So I chopped it

My friend Eric made a plug to seal it off it at school

With the bearing cut off the bolt you see in this pic with the allen head was interfering with the belt to the alt. So i took the original bolt cut it down and welded a counter sunk allen head. I had to counter sink the fan pully bracket in order to make it as flat as possible so it would not interfere
this is how it turned out.

You can also see my lightweight crank pully i bought from URD.

Stats include:
Aircraft grade 6061 T-6 aluminum billet.
CNC machined to .001" tolerances.
Bolt holes for the OEM crankshaft holding tool and puller.
MILSPEC grade hard anodized coating in URD Red.
Substantial weight reduction 2 lbs 10 oz down from 10 lbs stock.
Freed up acceleration horsepower and torque.
Snappier throttle response.
Stock belt drive diameters.
Maximum traction URD SuperGrip design on the supercharger belt drive.
Impressive to stare at.
They also claim according to some internet sites that for every pound reduced in rotational mass of the crankshaft assembly, you gain 2.7 acceleration horsepower. Being thats is alot lighter than my stock one (Eric dropped and broke )I should have a huge gain
Check them out at http://www.urdusa.com/index.phpthey have some great stuff
It only cost a bit more than a brand new stock one so it was a no brainer

Top view you can also see my new power steering line I got from ORS. I took out my ABS unit since its useless to me

 

so why did the head bolt issue make it so that you can't ever add an S/C?



(am i the only one reading you're thread? lol)

 

I would venture to guess that the helicoils might not hold with the added pressure from a supercharger.

Rob

 

Thats exactly why. The coils would not be wise to add that much more power too. With the headers and intake and polishing i did to it it should be putting out pretty good power though so if anything a v8 will be put in its place eventualy but thats down the road a bit


And no your not the only one haha

 

ok that makes sense. thanks for the clarification.

 

Ya it sucks but again im sure ill have great power with what ive done while rebuilding the motor. I cant wait to wheel again

 

and i can't wait to see the pics of your beast! as they say (and as we know) anythings better than the 3.sloooooooooooooow

 

Yeah really Its real close but ive got to figure out why it floods out apon starting. Ill get more indepth on it in a bit but ive got a shop near by and i know the people who work there and they have the right scan tools so I should know soon. Ill be sure to keep everyone informed

Very soon will the Beast be back on the trails haha

 

Heres another view of the new power steering line from ORS. Its pre bent ends make for a nice clean look

 

Wiring was the next thing on the list after i got the motor back in the truck the final stages of it could take place
But before I put the dash backtogether I wanted to go through the old body harness and get rid of some stuff
I took the harness to my friends dads shop were i could lay it out on boards and make it easier to work on
Harness out

On the table

And another

This is just some of the pulled wires

Heres the chopped 3.4 harness i went through to get an undersanding of


I ended up not using the chopped harness but I gained alot of knowledge form going through it. Wirings always fun I bought a brand new harness to match the ecu I purchased for it
Only one of so many schematics

 

Very interesting build up for sure.

 

So to join the engine harness to the body harness i used the original plugs. The body and dash harness use two plugs to conect each other. One set will connect and the other are close but a no go.
Heres my moddified engine harness plug. I used as little wiring as possible becuase i dont need everything to make it run

Body harness plug all wired up

And them together. The red adapters are for the wires going into missing ecu plug.

Doing the harness myself saved me $$$ I would have spent about $700 for ORS's kit but now i can spend my money on other things. The knowledge by doing this also made it worth it

 

Yes it is

 

While my dash was apart it made for great timing on updating the Tach to work.
Gauge cluster with tack removed. Ive thought about changing the colored bulbs to red to match the trucks scheme but it only takes about 5 mins to take the dash apart again so ill do it later

Use of a 10k ohm resister is needed and is soldered here

Crappy Picture but you should be able to see the resistor.
It works now

 

were you using a tach from a 4cyl or something? why are you changing it?

 

Because in order for it to work properly you need to do this mod otherwise youll blow the tach. Its kinda like why you have to use the 3.0 oil pressure sending unit or youll blow that as well.

And no it was a 3.0 that I replaced

 

Its just a small difference in wiring. It wouldnt work if i didnt do the mod. When i got it running it worked great and as far as i know its accurate