Welcome to yotatech

Ya ive taken probably too much time in this thread but I know how much people like pics and I love taken them so might aswell see what other people think It was great to see you again. Its truly a small world!

Im not 100% sure where ill be Memorial day weekend. I may try Reiter on Sat cause its close then maybe sunday go camp at Evan Creek or somthing You should all come out! My friend Nicky is also apart of that whore4x4 forum. Ive got a few bugs to work out with mine still but Today I finaly hit 4th gear I could have hit 5th but I was already going a bit fast for were I was :laugh I loved the quick power of the new motor.

Ill be in touch about the up coming weekend so talk to you soon




Ya for sure, although I think BigT beat me too it

It sucked what I went through last time with the terminals being the problem when I thought for sure it was the starter It was a learning experience for sure so I guess it was worth it

Good luck with yours and be sure to take your time and dont rush. Should be a comparably sick rig Im sure

As for mine well im not gonna say another word since I already think I just jinxed myself saying im going

Too be continued

 

hey phill, i just replied to your PM, also thought id chime in here because i just read this.

about O2's the 5VZ might be unhappy with not having a catalytic converter because the sole purpose of the second (downstream) O2 sensor is to prove to the PCM that the cat is doing its job.
In order for a cat to burn off HC, and NOx it needs to be charged with air to reach the temperature needed. Older vehicles used and air pump for this, but on newer vehicles the PCM actually tells the fuel injectors to cyle from rich to lean usually 1 to 5 times a second. When the injectors switch lean it recharges the cat with air so it can do its job. so the first O2 sensor indicates to the PCM what the rich/lean status is, and that it is in fact switching. Now because the cat uses up all of the unburned fuel and excess air in the exhaust and puts out nothing but nitrogen and water, the downstream O2 sensor is not supposed to switch because its a consistent mixture after the cat. So when the PCM sees the downstream O2 sensor on a rig without a cat switching also its probably not going to be too happy about that and flash a CEL.

sorry for another one of my sensor operation lectures, just thought i would throw it out there to see if it helped clarify. ive never run my truck without a cat so i cant say from personal experience what these motors will do without it, hopefully somebody else can chime in on that note.

 

These guys do sell an O2 simulator for the rear O2 URD I might also want to check out what they have for A/F gauges so I could watch and adjust easily on the go.

From My understanding the rear O2 sensor only keeps the check engine light from staying off. But that does make sense that it could also play some part in helping it run smoother.

Bring on the sensor lectures. Other people on the forum Im sure would also like to here about them and get a better understanding about how they work.

Where did you learn all this imformation BTW?

 

Some pics I finally got uploaded for your viewing pleasure

Heres my new longs installed and with the brand new and beefy 6 stud(instead of stock 2) Drive flanges. These things give me the warranty for the Longs and also Longfield recommends them for straight trailer rigs because they are stronger than the axles themselves



Heres some pics of the Trail-gear Knuckle gussest that add strength and security



Not mine but what I did to mine was the same. People call them Lincon lockers but to me since I use Miller, thats like calling a toyota a jeep So mine is a Millmatic locker
Its a nice Tig welded third. The guy who did it has done it many times without a single failure on the trail

I am now welded in the rear and ARB with longs in the front

 

Ive already cut up the front fenders pretty good to accommodate the new tire size, so to assure I dont completely mangle the rears or worse my tires... I had to do something about the rear fenders.

Spots like this have to go


Heres the solution

Got to love the sawzall

I cut about an inch off then tack welded and folded back the metal into the shape it was before with the 90degree bend in it. The very rear valance part I cut has a big hole that I will later fill with sheet.
This pic was before that



I got pretty much the drivers side done how I want it so tomorrow I will get do the otherside and be good to go

 

Me thinks you need rear bumper by now

 

Lookin' great love the pic's hope to see it for real someday

 

I always thought it looked pretty sick without one. It really shows off the work done on the fuel cell relocation and red flat underbelly.

BTW - Fill you need better pictures of the whole truck. These pictures posted up here don't do the build complete justice. This is easily my favorite Runner in the state. I'm going to cry when you chop and tube it.

 

That I do but first I need a tubebender so I can make one. Soon
Ive got some ideas for the cage, bumpers and doors I think youll all like once I get done.

BTW I go forward not backward so what use would the bumper be to me???

Someday Ill be taking it all over so Ill be sure to let people know when im out on the road traveling

Ya I really want a better camera. I took pretty much all the pics of the build with my Cell phone so for being a phone camera I think the pictures turned out pretty well IMO.

It looks good without the bumper but I do need one and Ill make it a close fit so its clean and still looks good to you

The and tubing work will make it sicker You always told me not to do it but I think im gonna have too just to make you cry

 

Pffft. It's a trailer princess, it doesn't need a bumper.

I know you'll make it look pretty - otherwise you'll have to hear me whine about it.

 

Ya I know I dont want to hear about so Im sure it'll be good

 

Ya it looks good the way it is, but you don't want



to happen again... or worse, and lose the use of your tailgate.

But I guess if you and tube it, then who cares

 

I gotta build mine too. I just failed safety inspection cause I have no rear bumper at the moment. Well...that and haveit 4 inches of tire sticking out of may frenders, but thats an easy fix.

 

I'm just finishing up my last semester of automotive tech in college, so i'm pretty familiar with electricity and theory/operation of most automotive mechanical and electrical devices

 

I was pulled over once for no mudflaps although I knew the law I also had no bumper nor fender flares. I got the ticket only for the mudflaps. $101 I recommend mudflaps on any vehicle (driving on the freeway) to have them. They do a great deal of calming the water spray which we all hate.

My truck is no where close to legal for freeway driving, Nor any road really other than trails pretty crazy to think as I bet this new motor could hit some quick times The power gain is much better now. I wish I could drive it on the road more but then again when I think about it... probably not the best Idea


Really its just sheet! I actually did most of that with a sludge Im gonna patch it up a bit more before the trip this weekend. Most however will be hurt wheelin im sure but I will soon build the bumpers front and rear and even a cage someday in the forceable future. Lots of plans like all projects but to this day Im happy ive gotten it to atleast this far

Thats nice dude it comes in real handy to know. I appreciate the help with aiding me in diagnosing mine. Its running stronger than ever right now and all I really have left is some fine tuning and I should be good.

Thanks and Congrats!

 

The shops are just being picky. I passed last year no problem. The Highway Partol came through town a couple of months ago at shut a bunch of guys down for not doing safety inspections by the book. He said they were down for about a month (they do about 15 inspections a day) and got fined. He didn't write me up, just looked me over before I got into the bay, so I don't have a record to deal with. My biggest problem was the 4 inches of 33x12.50 BFG Mud-terrains sticking out of the wheel well. Thought I slip though, but I guess I've got to play musicl tires again.

I've got pipe to build my bumper, and got it all planned in my head, just need to measure. I'm going to bob the bed at the same time, so I've been putting it off. They guy that's going to set up my R&P has a bender, so maybe he'll let me use it while he does the gears.

 

That would be cool if he let you use it. I want to buy a tube bender so I can build my cage as I dont want to pay someone else to do it but I know a few people that could help me out if I go that route, also when I get some cash to actualy build mine. Will see

My tires before on 35's only stuck out about 1.5" which was on the border legal wise. What you may be able to do is fab up some mudflaps that cover the tops and sides of the tires. Making them a quick disconect is easy and a great idea also for when you hit the trails. I wanted fender flares back before I decided to go the route I did but you could easily slap some on and get it closer to legal that way too. I like the removable flaps more though


Good luck with your project and im sure its going to be pretty sick!

 

lookin' good as usual! but i agree that we need some full truck shots.

 

Ya i know Im gonna take some "FULL" action pics when im out this weekend. Im excited that im finaly taking it out hopefully all works good and how it should.

The pics are comming so be patiant i know ive been

Im gonna be at reiter pit on Saturday and if everythings running good I may go Sunday and maybe Monday.

I hope to see some of you out there this weekend

 

Heres a few full shots of my finished rear fender trimming.


Some more of the rear fenders.
The sludge is awesome here


No way legal